August 9, 2011
We left Gros Cacouna anchorage this morning@ 0700 hrs in fog. We have been travelling with "Auburne Angle", a 37 ft Tayana, from Quebec to Rimouski. The fog disipated around 0900 hrs and the day turned out to be absolutely beautiful. During the trip to Rimouski, we saw three Beluga Whales. There are less than 500 of these manamals left. They are the only whale that can turn their head. Length 10-16 ft and weigh 700-1500 kg. they are pure white, no dorsal fin, and supposedly, can be heard calling or whistling "beluga". From a distance they look like small patches of ice.
We arrived in Rimouski at 1545 and found a berth at the marina. The town of Rimouski is not a tourist town but it is a convenient stop for marine charts and shopping mall items. It has a good marine hardware store and most things can be ordered and had the following day.
Rimouski is an important Waypoint our journey out of the St Lawrence River. The Tidal Currents become less strong and there is less tidal height. It now becomes possible to start sailing day and night. On the trip over from Cap-a-l'Aigle to Gros Cacouna, the wind was blowing about 20 kts. While setting up the staysail, for the first time during this trip, I tasted the salt water spray. Glorious!!
I have some maintenance to do: oil change and racor filter change plus minor adjustments. My plan is to spend a few days here and then leave on Friday morning - weather permitting. If we can get a good Wx forecast, we'll try to make Riviere au Renard which is 190 miles from Rimouski. From Riviere au Renard to Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island it's around 200 miles. Give us decent Wx and we can log miles. As we approach the Northunberland Straits, the Wx will get warmer and more pleasant, at least this is what the Canadian Sailing Directions indicate.
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
CAP-A-L'AIGLE TO PORT DE GROS CACOUNA
August 8, 2011
Set out tihis morning from Cap-a-l'Aigle marina despite the NE'ly winds that were predicted to blow 10-20 kts. We decided to skip Tadoussac because of strong wind warnings. We got a good tip from an experienced French yatchman to go to Gros Cacouna and anchor there. This meant crossing the St. Lawrence to the Eastern side which we would have had to do from Tadoussac anyway. Distance from Cap-a-l'Aigle was 32 miles. According to the Fenchman, the Canadian government spent $200 millon to develop Gros Cacouna as an LNG port, however, the business never paid off. The port stands as a monument to failed anticipation. It is a fabulous place to anchor and not a ship or person in sight. Supposedly, you have to get permission to anchor here but the Frenchman indicated that it was all beauracratic nonsense so we did nothing and there were no consecuences.
We anchored at 1710 hrs in 20 ft of water surrrounded by breakwaters in perfect protection against the elements.
This was our first time anchoring during this trip and all went well. We could not have chosen a better place. The Frenchman (Pierre) in his racing yacht "War Eagle" was already there and anchored. A peaceful night under a clear sky and stars.
Set out tihis morning from Cap-a-l'Aigle marina despite the NE'ly winds that were predicted to blow 10-20 kts. We decided to skip Tadoussac because of strong wind warnings. We got a good tip from an experienced French yatchman to go to Gros Cacouna and anchor there. This meant crossing the St. Lawrence to the Eastern side which we would have had to do from Tadoussac anyway. Distance from Cap-a-l'Aigle was 32 miles. According to the Fenchman, the Canadian government spent $200 millon to develop Gros Cacouna as an LNG port, however, the business never paid off. The port stands as a monument to failed anticipation. It is a fabulous place to anchor and not a ship or person in sight. Supposedly, you have to get permission to anchor here but the Frenchman indicated that it was all beauracratic nonsense so we did nothing and there were no consecuences.
We anchored at 1710 hrs in 20 ft of water surrrounded by breakwaters in perfect protection against the elements.
This was our first time anchoring during this trip and all went well. We could not have chosen a better place. The Frenchman (Pierre) in his racing yacht "War Eagle" was already there and anchored. A peaceful night under a clear sky and stars.
Sunday, August 7, 2011
CAP-A-L-AIGLE
August 7, 2011
We will spend the day here since the Wx forecast is for NE'ly winds 10-20 kts. We're starting to meet several interesting sailors and characters. Maybe tomorrow will bring a better forecast. Also, I'm considering skipping the Tadoussac Whale Watching trip. I have a feeling that it is going to be "zoo scene" over there with tour boats jockying for position. Additionally, the marinas are on a "first come- first serve" basis so I don't know if we will find a spot. Lastly, there are terrific currents and Tide Rips at the mouth of the Saguenay River. The area is prone to fog. I don't want to get caught up and stuck there for several days. It's only 40 nm from here. The other option is to cross over the St Lawrence River from here and anchor in Port De Gros Cacuna. This puts us oe the South and East shore of the Gaspe pennisula and heading in the right direction. We got this information from a fellow French yachtsman who has anchored there many times. Supposedly, you have to get permission but the French are like the Spanish: who bothers with "permission". It's their country and they'll go where they want. I can remember a time in Toledo, Spain, on the banks of the Tajo River, when we were poaching fish with our Spanish friends just below a dam patrolled by the Military on the walls above. Americans are "rule of law" and permission oriented people. The French and Spanish have so many rules and law decrees that they obey what they want and dismiss the rest.
We will spend the day here since the Wx forecast is for NE'ly winds 10-20 kts. We're starting to meet several interesting sailors and characters. Maybe tomorrow will bring a better forecast. Also, I'm considering skipping the Tadoussac Whale Watching trip. I have a feeling that it is going to be "zoo scene" over there with tour boats jockying for position. Additionally, the marinas are on a "first come- first serve" basis so I don't know if we will find a spot. Lastly, there are terrific currents and Tide Rips at the mouth of the Saguenay River. The area is prone to fog. I don't want to get caught up and stuck there for several days. It's only 40 nm from here. The other option is to cross over the St Lawrence River from here and anchor in Port De Gros Cacuna. This puts us oe the South and East shore of the Gaspe pennisula and heading in the right direction. We got this information from a fellow French yachtsman who has anchored there many times. Supposedly, you have to get permission but the French are like the Spanish: who bothers with "permission". It's their country and they'll go where they want. I can remember a time in Toledo, Spain, on the banks of the Tajo River, when we were poaching fish with our Spanish friends just below a dam patrolled by the Military on the walls above. Americans are "rule of law" and permission oriented people. The French and Spanish have so many rules and law decrees that they obey what they want and dismiss the rest.
QUEBEC TO CAP-A-L-AIGLE
August 6, 2010
We left Quebec this morning following the instructions on the Tide Tables: Depart Quebec 2-1/2 hrs before High Tide. We gave ourselves an extra hour just to be sure. The trip down the River was beautiful with a following SW'ly wind. The first few hours we were motoring against a Flood tide and I should have put on a few more rpms to make the instructed 5-6 kts. I didn't and paid for it during the last few hours in approaching Cap-a-l'Aigle (Cape of the Eagle). When we were sailing with the full Ebb Tide we were averaging 10-13kts. With Tides running 14-18 ft, that's a lot of water moving. On the contrary, trying to motor against a 4 kt current is tough and slow. Our last hour saw us making only 3.5 kts. The wind was starting to blow and gust to 25 kts but we made the Marina and were all fast at 1906 hrs. It's pretty impressive to watch the drying out of the Marina on a 14 ft drop in water. All these marinas have floating docks so that one doesn't have to be continually adjusting lines.
Cap-a-l-Aigle is a quaint little village nestled under the Laurentian Mountain Chain whose height can approach 2500 ft. Also, we are now starting to see areas of Tide Rips on the charts. These are to be avoided because of the turbulent water swirling in all different directions. They are well marked on the charts so good passage planning is essential.
At long last we have run into another sailing boat that is going in the same direction as ourselves. We met them in Port Colbourne and started the transit of the Welland Locks, when we had the raw water blockage and overheating of the engine,
and had to turn back. In Quebec we met up with them again. They have a Tayana 37' called "Auburn Angle". Beautiful boat built in Taiwan and designed by Bob Perry who created the Valiant and Passport yachts.
A note on getting medicine in Canada: ours never arrived! We were passing by a pharmacy so I decided to go in and ask about getting medicine. I had an empty container with the Rx number on it.
Yes you can get a refill. There is a Doctor on call and the pharmacist makes a call and you speak to him and indicate what you need: $64 CAD for paperwork and being a Doctor. Next comes the refill money: In this case $140 CAD for a 30 day supply. And I walked out into old Quebec with a modern man's means of prolonging life. As I ponder this, at some point in my life, I might boycott the phamaceutical industry: I'm old enough to die!!
Engine Tachometer is working once again. I went below and jiggled around some wires on the sending units. Found a loose wire and secured it with electrical tape. Must have been the right one.
We left Quebec this morning following the instructions on the Tide Tables: Depart Quebec 2-1/2 hrs before High Tide. We gave ourselves an extra hour just to be sure. The trip down the River was beautiful with a following SW'ly wind. The first few hours we were motoring against a Flood tide and I should have put on a few more rpms to make the instructed 5-6 kts. I didn't and paid for it during the last few hours in approaching Cap-a-l'Aigle (Cape of the Eagle). When we were sailing with the full Ebb Tide we were averaging 10-13kts. With Tides running 14-18 ft, that's a lot of water moving. On the contrary, trying to motor against a 4 kt current is tough and slow. Our last hour saw us making only 3.5 kts. The wind was starting to blow and gust to 25 kts but we made the Marina and were all fast at 1906 hrs. It's pretty impressive to watch the drying out of the Marina on a 14 ft drop in water. All these marinas have floating docks so that one doesn't have to be continually adjusting lines.
Cap-a-l-Aigle is a quaint little village nestled under the Laurentian Mountain Chain whose height can approach 2500 ft. Also, we are now starting to see areas of Tide Rips on the charts. These are to be avoided because of the turbulent water swirling in all different directions. They are well marked on the charts so good passage planning is essential.
At long last we have run into another sailing boat that is going in the same direction as ourselves. We met them in Port Colbourne and started the transit of the Welland Locks, when we had the raw water blockage and overheating of the engine,
and had to turn back. In Quebec we met up with them again. They have a Tayana 37' called "Auburn Angle". Beautiful boat built in Taiwan and designed by Bob Perry who created the Valiant and Passport yachts.
A note on getting medicine in Canada: ours never arrived! We were passing by a pharmacy so I decided to go in and ask about getting medicine. I had an empty container with the Rx number on it.
Yes you can get a refill. There is a Doctor on call and the pharmacist makes a call and you speak to him and indicate what you need: $64 CAD for paperwork and being a Doctor. Next comes the refill money: In this case $140 CAD for a 30 day supply. And I walked out into old Quebec with a modern man's means of prolonging life. As I ponder this, at some point in my life, I might boycott the phamaceutical industry: I'm old enough to die!!
Engine Tachometer is working once again. I went below and jiggled around some wires on the sending units. Found a loose wire and secured it with electrical tape. Must have been the right one.
Friday, August 5, 2011
Quebec
August 4, 2011
The Basin Louise which houses the Port of Quebec Marina is a two part affair: there is an outer basin and an inner basin. The inner basin is controlled by a flood gate to compensate for the 18 ft tidal difference. It's just another lock like so many that we've come through. The Marina is right in the heart of old Quebec and there is unbelievable artistic activity during the day and night.
Quebec: we're impressed. The old quarter is so French that you can believe you are walking down an ancient street in the mother country. Also, the sheer size of the old quarter and its' consistent 17th century architecture put it in a special category not to be rivaled by anything else in North America. In the panoply of Canadian marvels, this is the "piece de resistance". To make the whole ambiance more believable, they have local Quebecois roaming the streets in period costume. Everywhere there is artistic activity of one kind or another. Everywhere we are reminded of the beautiful French villages we passed through on our motorcycles back in the late 60's. At that time we were travelling with a dear friend, Ken Hebson. We had started in Barcelona, Spain and heading to Istanbul,Turkey. We had a 250 cc BMW and he had 250 cc Chechloslovokian bike. An amazing trip and another story somewhere in time.
I looked at the chart and planned the next leg from Quebec to Malbaie: 70 nm. Also, I noted that we still have 1200 miles to go to make Bar Harbor, ME. There just isn't much we can do in night sailing with the tides against us. We have to work with them and enjoy a 3-4 kt favorable current or stand still or be set back if we try to sail against them. If we motor against a 4 kt ebb, maybe, we can make 3 kts. This will change once we reach the Eastern End of the Gaspe Pennisula. There is a favorable 2 kt current running along the coast in an Easterly/Southerly direction. The main effect of Tides will start to diminish and we can sail day and night.
There can be Wx delays from here on out: strong NE'ly wind and fog at Tadoussac, an occassional gale warning. Additionally, we have to plan the route to avoid the main shipping lanes. Fishing boats will become a significant consideration as we cross over to the Southern shore of the Gaspe pennisula. Prudence and patience and route planning will see us through.
The Basin Louise which houses the Port of Quebec Marina is a two part affair: there is an outer basin and an inner basin. The inner basin is controlled by a flood gate to compensate for the 18 ft tidal difference. It's just another lock like so many that we've come through. The Marina is right in the heart of old Quebec and there is unbelievable artistic activity during the day and night.
Quebec: we're impressed. The old quarter is so French that you can believe you are walking down an ancient street in the mother country. Also, the sheer size of the old quarter and its' consistent 17th century architecture put it in a special category not to be rivaled by anything else in North America. In the panoply of Canadian marvels, this is the "piece de resistance". To make the whole ambiance more believable, they have local Quebecois roaming the streets in period costume. Everywhere there is artistic activity of one kind or another. Everywhere we are reminded of the beautiful French villages we passed through on our motorcycles back in the late 60's. At that time we were travelling with a dear friend, Ken Hebson. We had started in Barcelona, Spain and heading to Istanbul,Turkey. We had a 250 cc BMW and he had 250 cc Chechloslovokian bike. An amazing trip and another story somewhere in time.
I looked at the chart and planned the next leg from Quebec to Malbaie: 70 nm. Also, I noted that we still have 1200 miles to go to make Bar Harbor, ME. There just isn't much we can do in night sailing with the tides against us. We have to work with them and enjoy a 3-4 kt favorable current or stand still or be set back if we try to sail against them. If we motor against a 4 kt ebb, maybe, we can make 3 kts. This will change once we reach the Eastern End of the Gaspe Pennisula. There is a favorable 2 kt current running along the coast in an Easterly/Southerly direction. The main effect of Tides will start to diminish and we can sail day and night.
There can be Wx delays from here on out: strong NE'ly wind and fog at Tadoussac, an occassional gale warning. Additionally, we have to plan the route to avoid the main shipping lanes. Fishing boats will become a significant consideration as we cross over to the Southern shore of the Gaspe pennisula. Prudence and patience and route planning will see us through.
Trois Riviere to Montreal
July 3, 2011
We left the marina this morning at 0900 hrs. The directions for working the tide stated 8 hrs before low tide at Quebec. The directions also warn about a NE'ly wind blowing against an ebb tide. I listened and then decided that it wouldn't be too bad so we took off. the first few hours were OK but as the ebb increased and the wind picked to 20 kts a, a nasty 4 ft chop developed. We motored against this for the next 8 hrs and arrived in Quebec an hour after the ebb and the beginning of the flood. The reputation of the Valiant as a sea kindly boat is justified in this case: she took everything thrown at her and still remained relatively dry. There was a 30 ft Bayfield ahead of us going in the same directions and she was making some acrobatic leaps that were amazing to watch. At one point, Phyllis, made a comment that she was concerned for them but there was never any danger. Actually, the Bayfield was motoring a knot faster than us.
We arrived at the Port of Quebec Marina at 1930 hrs: tired and exhausted. There was a restaurant at the marina so we had "fish & chips" and retired. I won't be sailing against a NE'ly from here on out because the St Lawrence River starts to widen after Quebec and the currents start to run at 4 kts on the Ebb. This would set up a vicious head sea.
We left the marina this morning at 0900 hrs. The directions for working the tide stated 8 hrs before low tide at Quebec. The directions also warn about a NE'ly wind blowing against an ebb tide. I listened and then decided that it wouldn't be too bad so we took off. the first few hours were OK but as the ebb increased and the wind picked to 20 kts a, a nasty 4 ft chop developed. We motored against this for the next 8 hrs and arrived in Quebec an hour after the ebb and the beginning of the flood. The reputation of the Valiant as a sea kindly boat is justified in this case: she took everything thrown at her and still remained relatively dry. There was a 30 ft Bayfield ahead of us going in the same directions and she was making some acrobatic leaps that were amazing to watch. At one point, Phyllis, made a comment that she was concerned for them but there was never any danger. Actually, the Bayfield was motoring a knot faster than us.
We arrived at the Port of Quebec Marina at 1930 hrs: tired and exhausted. There was a restaurant at the marina so we had "fish & chips" and retired. I won't be sailing against a NE'ly from here on out because the St Lawrence River starts to widen after Quebec and the currents start to run at 4 kts on the Ebb. This would set up a vicious head sea.
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
Longueuil/Montreal to Trois Riviere
August 2, 2011
Departed the Marina @ 0736 this morning after a brief but heavy downpour. The distance from Montreal to Trois Riviere is 70 nm. We averaged 8 kts coming down River and I was only running the engine at half speed. We were all fast at 1645 hrs.
It appears that the tachometer on the engine has had enough and refuses to give anymore. I have a pretty good ear for engine rpms so it shouldn't be a problem. One of the few concerns that I have is the engine. It appears to be in excellent condition, however, on a trip of this length where motoring is a priority, if anything should happen to "my precious" it might cause a grounding or a haul out and another winter in the Northern Climes. Once we make Tadoussac, the St Lawrence River opens up to over 10 miles wide. This means that we can start sailing again and the engine becomes secondary.
Tomorrow we will navigate the Richelieau Rapids. This is a short 2 nm run of very swift water with a current of 8 kts on the ebb. The channel is deep and well marked. It is not unusual for a yacht to exceed 12+ kts on a full ebb. Trois Riviere has a tidal range of about one foot. Quebec, 70 miles downriver, has an 18 ft tidal range. All departures are now based on "playing the current" to arrive at the best time. This will continue all the way to Rimouski which is about 270 nm from Trois Riviere.
The "meds" still haven't arrived in Montreal but they are now an after thought. My top priority is logging miles to get out of the High Latitudes and down the East Coast before the onset of late fall.
Trois Riviere is an industrial town. It has a paper mill and, those that have lived near one know the smell: rotten cabbage. When we came in this evening, the wind was just right to get that familiar oder that we knew so well from Pascagoula, MS when they had a paper mill there. A short time later the wind changed so we can hardly notice the smell.
Traffic from big ships has increased substantially from Montreal to Trois Riviere. This will continue as we get closer to the industrial centers. These big cargo ships can throw quite a wake so we have to have everything secured.
Will be in Quebec tomorrow evening around 1800 hrs.
Departed the Marina @ 0736 this morning after a brief but heavy downpour. The distance from Montreal to Trois Riviere is 70 nm. We averaged 8 kts coming down River and I was only running the engine at half speed. We were all fast at 1645 hrs.
It appears that the tachometer on the engine has had enough and refuses to give anymore. I have a pretty good ear for engine rpms so it shouldn't be a problem. One of the few concerns that I have is the engine. It appears to be in excellent condition, however, on a trip of this length where motoring is a priority, if anything should happen to "my precious" it might cause a grounding or a haul out and another winter in the Northern Climes. Once we make Tadoussac, the St Lawrence River opens up to over 10 miles wide. This means that we can start sailing again and the engine becomes secondary.
Tomorrow we will navigate the Richelieau Rapids. This is a short 2 nm run of very swift water with a current of 8 kts on the ebb. The channel is deep and well marked. It is not unusual for a yacht to exceed 12+ kts on a full ebb. Trois Riviere has a tidal range of about one foot. Quebec, 70 miles downriver, has an 18 ft tidal range. All departures are now based on "playing the current" to arrive at the best time. This will continue all the way to Rimouski which is about 270 nm from Trois Riviere.
The "meds" still haven't arrived in Montreal but they are now an after thought. My top priority is logging miles to get out of the High Latitudes and down the East Coast before the onset of late fall.
Trois Riviere is an industrial town. It has a paper mill and, those that have lived near one know the smell: rotten cabbage. When we came in this evening, the wind was just right to get that familiar oder that we knew so well from Pascagoula, MS when they had a paper mill there. A short time later the wind changed so we can hardly notice the smell.
Traffic from big ships has increased substantially from Montreal to Trois Riviere. This will continue as we get closer to the industrial centers. These big cargo ships can throw quite a wake so we have to have everything secured.
Will be in Quebec tomorrow evening around 1800 hrs.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)