Malaysia to Thailand

We left December 27th for Thailand which we met our friends on Starship in Langkawi. We checked out of Malaysia and sailed into Thailand. Gary and family showed us some beautiful islands that we stopped at until we sailed into Phuket, Thailand were we got a mooring in El Chalong for a few days the went  to Boat Lagoon Marina where are currently at waiting to be hauled out and get ready to fly out to the States.

Lighthouse to the entrance to Telga Harbor for checking out of Malaysia.

Coming into Telga harbor.

Ko  Lipe where w e spent New Years and watched the fireworks from the yacht.

Paiwan and Jasmine st the Mountain View.

View from the place called Mountain View in Ko Lipe.

Anchored in Ko Adang. These long tail boats were bringing boat loads of tourist for snorkeling.

These boats are called long tails because of the long shaft and the propeller looks like and eggbeater.

That's how they looked from our boat.

Beautiful sunset.

Don enjoying his birthday poppy seed bread.

..

Phi Phi Lee where the some of the movie The Beach  was filmed.

Beautiful views on the way to Monkey Beach.

You see the face of a woman.

Jasmine playing with bubbles .

Another scene from the movie.

Koh Ha  where you see all the boats is  a lagoon.

Beautiful place for snorkeling.

Starship and Solstice on the way to Phuket.

Big Buddha see from the yacht in Au Chalong.

Penang, Malaysia

I know I'm alittle behind with posting pictures but Penang was a wonderful place to be even for Christmas. We spent every day we were there  walking up and down the old part of the city. Looking and taking pictures of the wonderful art works on buildings, temples,  eating local food that Don had read about. We also spent Christmas in Penang at the Strait Quay Marina. Christmas caroling, Kids performing, very nice.  We tried to get a turkey dinner but we didn't make reservations and they were all booked booked up so we settled for Shepard's Pie for Don and I had Irish Lamb Stew, that both were great. I hope that you enjoy and  don't get bored with my pictures, but I do enjoy taking them. 

The sky rise of Penang hidden in the clouds.

Very familiar scene with the seagulls floating on a log.

Sky rises of Penang.

The sky rises of the Straits Quay Marina.

Amazing colors  and presentation.  

The Malay Mosque built in 1808

Beautiful art work.

The baby doing a head stand and holding a tree on this feet..

The caption reads "Love me like your fortune cat".

Saint Francis Xavier Church.

The sign says it all.

Brother and sister on a swing.

Children playing  basketball.

Cat walking the plank while the dogs look on.

Kids trying to sneak a cookie without Don seeing them.

Having tea.

Grocery and tea shop.

Skippy.

Kids on bicycle.

The getaway.

The culture girls.

The Trishaw Man.

The clock tower.

The lighthouse at the Straits Quay Marina.

The Straits Quay Marina.

Solstice in the Marina.

Trishaw taxi's

Christmas at the Quay.

BUTANG ISLANDS, THAILAND

  

On December 30, 2014 we cleared out of Telaga Harbor (06-21.988’ N x 99-41.095’ E) on Langkawi Island at 1200 hrs for the Butang Islands which are some 24 nm to the NW of Langkawi.  These islands are part of the Tarutao National Marine Park.  There are many smaller islands in the group and all are made up of granite.  We were to visit only four of the larger ones.  We were sailing in company with our friends on “Starship”.  This is one of their favorite cruising grounds and they know it well.  Gary’s passion is sailing, fishing and snorkeling.

We arrived off Ko Lipe (06-29.685’ N x 099-17.778’ E) at 1830 hrs and dropped anchor in 50’ of water depth with 180 ft of chain out on a sandy/mud bottom.  The plan was to spend New Years Eve here as, supposedly, the fireworks have been spectacular in the past.  Our friends had reported giant balloons, carrying fiery tails, being sent up on the NE winds at the southern end of the island on Pattaya beach.  For this reason, we anchored on the northern side of the island at Sunset beach to avoid any mishaps from errant burning balloons.  This anchorage did not prove to be that comfortable due to its exposure to the NE wind and the strong currents that run through the area.  Nevertheless, it was more than tolerable.

In Thailand, all of the National Marine Parks have some mooring buoys that are available on a first-come-first serve basis.  They are large soft plastic mooring balls with a blue stripe and trailing line with one or two eyes.  They carry the King’s emblem and are known as the King Mooring Buoys.  One has to treat them with caution and inspect them when possible by diving down and seeing what is there.  Also, we reverse the engine and give a good pull to see if they will take the strain.  In general, they can be trusted and are inspected on a ??? basis. By setting an anchor alarm with a short radius, one has time to react if something goes awry. There were no mooring available at Sunset Beach on Ko Lipe.

Ko Lipe is the only inhabited island in the Butang group.  It has resorts, restaurants, pubs, discos, souvenir shops, grocery stores, etc, etc.  There are so many Europeans, Aussies and Americans here that one would think they are somewhere else other than Thailand.  The island is a ferry and speed boat terminal.  It’s just jammed packed with “white bodies”.  Here we have the sun worshipers and hedonists:  old men with good looking Thai women.  It’s a party town and getting ready to bring in the New Year 2015.  At one time, there were “sea gypsies” living on these islands but they have been absorbed or moved on.  There are two hospitals on this small island to attend to all the real or imagined illnesses of the tourists.  If one doesn’t have an illness, then, perhaps, a Thai massage is just the thing to make one’s day.  Maybe a fortune teller to bolster up your spirits.  As we walk along the beautiful white sand beaches of Ko Lipe, I come upon a Rastafarian Restaurant/Bar sporting all Jamaican colors and jamming Reggae music.  At the entrance, there is a gigantic ten foot penis with a circumcised red painted tip and the message “One Love” running down the shaft:  I’m starting to feel a little better.  I am told that the owner, who is Thai, played with Bob Marley at some point in past time.

We’ve walked the whole island since our friends were anxious to show us everything.  It’s been a long day and, Phyllis and myself, decide to stay on the boat and enjoy the fireworks vicariously.  At this point, we aren’t sure there will be any since rumors have been circulating that the Military Dictatorship has promulgated a law forbidding any fireworks on this New Year’s eve.  The only problem with a stupid last minute law is that, everyone that has been buying fireworks and storing them away for this special occasion, will set them off overtly or surreptiously at the magic hour.  That is just what happens and, from our boat, we see fireworks set off from places all around the island with the epicenter at Pattaya Beach.

January 1, 2015 Thursday 

                                                                                                

At 1030 hrs, we heave up anchor and move over to Ko Adang which is just 2-1/2 nm to the north of Ko Lipe. 

We pick up one of the King’s Moorings (06-31.900’ N x 99-16.911’ E) and settle in.  We are on the western side of the island and protected from the NE wind and swell.  There is a strong current running parallel to the island.  This island is uninhabited with lush rain forest and tall mountain (2000 ft).  There is a fresh water spring with a water pipe coming out of it just south of our mooring.  The water is potable with showers and laundry possible.   At one time, there was a small community of sea gypsies living here but all traces have vanished.  This is a very popular area for diving and snorkeling.  Because the current is so strong, they have set up safety lines with floats.  It is  here that we witness just how many tourists are being ferried out in the “Long Tails”.  They are open wooden fishing boats with a canopy for protection against the Sun and rain.  These “Long Tails” are uniquely Thai in the fact that they mount their engines at the canoe stern and run a long shaft with a propeller at the end.  This shaft is at least 8-10 ft long and they are able to move it up and down by leverage exerted on the engine handle and throttle at the stern.  If they see a fishing line or net in the water, just push down on the engine handle and the propeller comes out of the water.  It’s easy to spot them because the propeller is always churning up white water just below the surface.  They are quite beautiful in their lines and sheer.  The Stem Post , at the bow, rises several feet into the air and has a “special necklace” of assorted rope and cloth colors dangling from it.  These boatmen are skillful and good fishermen.  This design of graceful wooden boat exists throughout Indonesia and Malaysia but only the Thais use the adapted “Long Tail”.  Anyway, there were at least fifty of these “Long Tails” coming towards us at our mooring:  all carrying “white bodies” of one shape or another.  Into the water they go:  hanging onto the safety lines for dear life.  The current is ripping along at two plus knots.  I’m observing the effects of the current on the swimmers from the boat and I see a group of monkeys, on the beach, watching them for different reasons.  Ko Adang is a beautiful place.

January 3, 2015 Saturday

At 1512 hrs, we let go the mooring lines and motored over to the southern side of Butang Island about 6nm to the west of Ko Adang. At 1700 hrs, we picked up one of the King’s Moorings (06-31.009’ N x 099-10.717’ E).  At this time of day there wasn’t much “Long Tail” traffic so we had the place to ourselves.  There is a very pretty island called “Lokoi” or Ko Rok Roy depending on who is spelling it.  The Thais have a hard time distinguishing between the “L” and “R” so all kinds of spelling deviations come up.  This southern side of Butang Is is isolated and stunningly beautiful.

January 4, 2015  Sunday

At 1348 hrs, we let go the mooring lines for the Ranger Station on Ko Rawi: 2-1/2 nm to the north.  At 1424, we picked up another one of the King’s Moorings just off the Ranger Station.  Of all the anchorages we visited, this anchorage is the most secure and calm (06-32.518’ N x 99-11.418’ E).  I did some snorkeling here but have had a cold so it has been difficult to compensate the ear drums when diving.  The water is very clear with beautiful coral.  This anchorage would be good in either monsoon.  This will be the last island we visit in the Butangs this time around.  When we come south in May or June, they offer the possibility of a secure overnight anchorage during the SW monsoon.

PENANG TO LANGKAWI, MALAYSIA

December 27, 2014     Saturday

We had to get an early start this morning using the tides.  Straits Quay Marina has suffered some silting so one needs adequate water for entering or leaving.  We left at 0712 and had no problems with a 6 ft draft.  The wind was out of the Ne at 10 kts so we set full sail with the main and jib and continued motoring.  Langkawi is 65 nm from Penang so we needed to make good time to make it to the marina before dark.  With full sail and motoring I was able to make 7.3 kts.  The wind held so we made fast at the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club in Kuah at 1700 hrs.  Our friends from “Starship” were there to guide us in and help us to tie up.  Gary, is the engineer that will oversee the repower of “Solstice” with a Beta Marina 43 hp engine.  Also, he found a Kiwi sail maker in Kuah that will give us a quote on a new mainsail and twin jibs.  We will need both for the South African trip.

Langkawi is a “duty free” port so all the liquor, chocolates and everything else is very reasonably priced.  It’s a busy place with lots of boat traffic.  The RLYC marina is a bit rolly due to all the ferry boat traffic but it’s a worthwhile stop for provisioning.  There is another marina on an island just off Langkawi called “Rebak” marina.  It is more remote and quite.  We plan to spend a night there before checking out of Malaysia at Telaga Harbor on the island of Langkawi.  The sailing plan is to sail in company with Gary, Paiwan and their seven year old daughter Jasmine to the Butang Islands.  These islands are about 24 nm to the NW and belong to Thailand.  It is one of Gary’s favorite places.

December 29, 2014

Depart Royal Langkawi Yacht Club at Kuah at 1130 hrs for Rebak Marina.  The distance is about 12 nm.  1442 hrs – all fast at Rebak Marina.  We have several friends here that were part of the Sail2Indonesia Rally 2014.  We’ll spend an evening here and then check out for Telaga Harbor which is only 5 nm from Rebak.

December 30, 2014    Tuesday

0912 hrs -  Depart Rebak Marina for Telaga Harbor to check out of Malaysia.

1018 hrs -  All fast at the fuel dock in Telaga Harbor.  This is a very small but pretty harbor with the Customs, Immigration and Harbor Master all conveniently located.  There is a  fuel dock, restaurant and convenience store but little else.  The harbor is serviced by ferries to the mainland and  Kuah.

1148 hrs -  U/W with “Starship” to the Butang Islands, Thailand

1830 hrs -  Drop anchor off the NE side of Ko Lipe (06-29.731’ N x 099-17.779’ E) in 50’ water depth with 180’ chain out.  It is quite windy here with a 3’ wave chop against tide.  The island is packed with tourists and has all kinds of restaurants and shops.  The plan is to spend New Years here as it is famous for its fireworks.

December 31, 2014  Wednesday

Anchored off Ko Lipe (06-29.685’ N x 099-17.776’ E).  We made a tour of the island.  There must be more that 1000 tourists here all waiting for tonight’s fireworks.  We have been told that the new military dictatorship has prohibited any firework displays.  This island is famous for sending up kites with fiery tales attached.  We have decided not to go ashore to see the fireworks but watch them from the boat.

I wouldn’t recommend this anchorage for anything other than a stop to get provisions.  It’s too rolly for comfort but still tenable for reprovisioning.  It appears that the shore can’t be accessed during low tide.   Big resorts here and ice can be ordered from them and they will deliver to the beach.  The prices have climbed since our exit from Malaysia.

The fireworks display was mediocre if one makes a comparison to the States.  Nevertheless, with a Military dictatorship promulgating no fireworks, it was the best they could do.  The Military Thai Dictatorship wants the Thai people to be happy but no Boom-Boom.

PENANG

It is called the “Pearl of the Orient” and deserves the epithet. In 2008, it was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status.  In 2009, the trendy NY Times voted it  as one of the 44 “must see” places, maybe, they got it right.  The fact is,  this is one fabulous city.  Georgetown, the capital of this State didn’t start off so well.  Its early history is filled  with the deaths of the first English settlers:  it became known as “the white man’s grave” because of the rampant malaria.  There were enough Malays, Indian and Chinese merchants and laborers to make up for all the deaths occurring in the East India Company’s employee roster.  One sees that the majority, then and now, are Chinese.  The beautiful architecture of the old part of Georgetown is mostly Chinese.  The Indian and the Islamic influence abound and one part of the old city is called “Little India”.  Malays have their mosques of worship which are always painted yellow.  What is left of the English is largely in ruins but there are a few outstanding Victorian mansions.

As with so many great cities, the smells, sights and tasting of great food comes from street stalls.  You won’t get it in the luxury hotels.  It’s happening all around you.  For the really squeamish, there are more sanitary places to eat with good food but we have never had a problem with eating out of the street stalls.  Some of these places are so well known by the locals that you have to stand in line for quite some time to get served: it’s worth it.

What makes Georgetown so special is that so much of the original architecture has been preserved without the intrusion of modern monstrosities. They are there but are held at a minimum.  Now that the city has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, everyone is scrambling to restore those buildings that would have been demolished a short time before.  The future is bright and getting better for Georgetown.  There are many expats and backpackers in the old part of the city.  I met a Peruvian that was selling bead jewelry on the street.  He spends 6 months in Georgetown and the other 6 months in China.  When we were travelling our base was Spain, but here in SE Asia another world opens up to the young and vigorous:  Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, China, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia.

If there is any downside to visiting a fabulous historical place, it’s the fact that every would-be entrepreneur  is there trying to sell you something.  They aren’t pushy or persistent but, after awhile, one becomes groggy eyed looking at the panoply of gadgets offered.  The one useful item is an umbrella:  it rains frequently.  Need  one with Chinese paintings, Indian mantras, pictures of Buddha or Western decadence?  It’s all here.

We spent Christmas at the marina and had our Christmas meal at an Irish bar.  Christmas is big is Malaysia.  They have Christmas music, caroling, trees and decorations.  It would be difficult to distinguish between an upscale mall in the States and Straits Quay.

As with all great places, a time comes when one is saturated with the sights and sounds:  Give it a break and return at a later date.

We will rendezvous with our friends, Gary and Paiwan on “Starship” in Langkawi which is about 65 nm North from Penang.

PORT DICKSON TO PENANG, MALAYSIA

December 16, 2014 Tuesday

At 0730 hrs, we departed Admiral Marina at Port Dickson for Port Klang:  58 nm to the North.  Using the Tidal Streams, we were able to make this distance in 9.5 hrs.  The North going Tidal Stream runs for about 15 hrs and then changes to the SE and runs about nine hours.  The currents are stronger near shore so there is an advantage to staying close inshore.  This ancient waterway has been used by Arab and Indian  traders since, at least, the 2^nd century AD and perhaps longer.  The two monsoonal seasons were used for sailing from distant shores to SE Asia:  SW monsoon from Arabia and India and return on the NE monsoon.  A short history of the area seems to indicate that Ptolemy, the Greek geographer, labeled   it ‘Aurea Chersonesus’ (Golden Chersonese).  It is the waterway to and from the Spice Islands which include Indonesia and  Malaysia.  It was the Indian traders that brought Hinduism, Islam, and the system of Sultans and Rajas to the area.    Later on, the Portugese, Dutch and English would  enter the scene in a long drawn out rivalry of alliances and betrayals.  The area remains the preeminent spice capital of the world.  The Singapore and Malacca Straits are the busiest waterways in the world.  It is awesome to see the number of ships sailing and anchored off its many ports.

Malaysia appears to have more of an Islamic influence than many parts of Indonesia.  We observe small children, young girls and women wearing the traditional “habji” (head scarf).  This was not as common in many parts of Indonesia.  With this concession to Islam and customs, the young girls and women wear modern jeans and all the other designer clothing.  Malaysia is a very modern country with a great wealth in timber, oil refineries, minerals, and gems.  It rivals our own western countries.  There is ample employment and many foreigners come here to work.  The medical and dental facilities are, reputedly, excellent and cheap.

The trip to Port Klang was uneventful other than seeing more cranes lifting containers off ships that we have ever seen before.  We counted 82 gigantic  gantry cranes in the Port Klang river.  This port serves Kuala Lumpur which is the political and commercial capital of Malaysia.  We anchored on the western bank of the river in 32’water depth with 165’ chain out (03-02.400’ N x 101-20.453’ E) good holding on a muddy bottom. 

December 17, 2014 Wednesday

Heaved up anchor at 0746 hrs and got underway for Pangkor Marina which is about 67 nm North of Port Klang.  We had a little wind and were able to motor sail at times but most of it was motoring.  It became obvious that we couldn’t make Pangkor in daylight so we decided to anchor at Sungei Bernham (Bernham River).  The river bar is a little shallow and narrow but has adequate depth to bring in a 6-7’ draft sailboat.  We dropped anchor off a small fishing village in 18’ water depth with 110’ chain out (03-50.835’ N x 100-49.751’ E).  There were several ferries serving the area.  It is a well protected anchorage.

December 18, 2014

At 0748. heaved up anchor and motored out of  Sungei Burnham.  There is a spit of land called Tanjung Lombalomba but I never did get the name of the small village that was serviced by the ferries.  It’s a good stop between Port Klang and Pangkor.

We’re starting to get short periods of the NE winds where we can set the main and jib.  They seem to happen in the early morning and die off in the afternoon.  At least it’s encouraging after having motored for so many miles in a windless area.  The Volvo Penta engine is running well but has a small exhaust leak coming out of the #2 injector – nothing serious at this point in time but we can hear and smell the exhaust gas.

We arrived at Pangkor Marina (04-12.690’ N x 100-36.115’ E) at 1448 hrs and made fast at one of the berth at #2 pier.  Originally, I had not planned to stop at this marina so I didn’t do the necessary research and planning to enter it.  We were travelling with a trimaran called “En Pointe” and he had the waypoints.  We made a safe but circuitous entry into the marina.  This is a relatively new marina.  It has good haul out facilities and we found mayn DIY (do-it-yourselfers) here.  It reminded me of the old days when most long distance voyagers made a stop somewhere along the line to haul out and make necessary repairs.  This is a great place to do that.  There are many French DIY yachties here so I figure it’s cheap.  The other facilities were “bare bones” but adequate.  The city of Lumut is a 15 minute taxi ride away and has another yacht club facility on the Dindings River.  My original intention was to anchor off this yacht club and be closer to the city but it would have necessitated launching the dinghy.  It’s always easier to step off a marina berth onto the dock.  Anyway, Lumut seems to have everything a cruiser would need.  The great thing about Malaysia is that all spare parts for yachts come in “duty free”.  Additionally, they have machine shops that can make up anything not available.

December 20, 2014  Saturday

We departed Pangkor Marina at 0830 hours enroute to Penang: 70 nm distant.  It was obvious that we would not make it in daylight so I chose a well protected anchorage to the south of Penang Is called Pulau Rimau (05-15.255’ N x 100-16.643’ E).  The biggest problem when sailing at night is fish traps nets,  and fishing boats.  Radar can pick up some of fish traps but, if they are made of bamboo stakes, not all.  To pick up a net in the propeller means an overboard dive to cut it out.  Our radar and charting programs are in the cabin below.  I monitor the radar and positions and give helm orders to Phyllis.  She does all the manual helming of the yacht in close quarters when we aren’t using the auto-pilot.

On this voyage, we had very little wind so it was motoring.  We started to get light rain about 20 nm from Penang and this stayed with us right into the anchorage.  The Sun sets here around 1930 hrs and we dropped anchor at Pulau Rimau at 2048 hrs in 26’ water depth with 130’ chain out (05-15.255’ N x 100-16.643’ E).  It rained all night long but the anchorage was comfortable and safe.

December 21, 2014 Sunday

Penang is  one of the great cities of the world but, for yachts, there is very little good anchorage to be found and dinghy access becomes even more difficult.  There is only one small marina left that is located at the northwestern side of the island (05-27.5’ N x 100-18.9’ E) Straits Quay Marina.  It has accommodations for 40 boats which are permanently moored there and space becomes available only when one of them decides to leave for awhile.  I had emailed and talked to the marina manager, John Ferguson, and he told me that I could anchor off the marina and dinghy into it and use all the facilities.  He thought that a berth would become available on December 24^th.  We accepted this offer and heaved up anchor at Pulau Rimau and motored 13 nm to the Straits Quay Marina.  It was still raining.  At 1700 hrs, we dropped anchor off the Straits Quay Marina in 20’ water depth with 130’ chain out (05-27.695’ N x 100-19.158’ E).  This anchorage is wide open to wind and sea but during the NE Monsoon it is tenable.  We stayed anchored there until December 24^th and then got a berth at the marina.  We were all secured at Berth E-1 (05-27.529’ N x 100-18.866’ E)  Straits Quay Marina at 1215 hrs – still raining.  It was a good Christmas present to be safe and secure.  The Straits Quay Complex is a Five Star Resort and Condominium with all the chic shops including Starbucks and a fabulous grocery store.  The marina part is small and insignificant but adds charm for the rich and famous.  Everything here is Five Star luxury at affordable prices.  Malaysia has everything that Singapore boasts with affordable prices.  Much of their tourism comes from Singapore!

It rained for four days and, finally, let off just enough for the Sun to come out and reveal the magnificence of Penang.