On to Prickly Bay.

Once we got to Grenada, we med moor which means we go stern first to the dock which is not so good for us. Fortunately  our friends were next to us so we rafted and we could get of our boat. But once they went on the hard we had to use our dinghy to get of to go to the showers and bathroom. Not pleasant. The only reason we were there was to get a few things fixed. Did not take any pictures of Prickly Bay.

Sunset on the way to Grenada. It wasn't a great sunset.

We had a leak in the galley for a very long time and couldn't figure out where the water was coming from. And it was salt water. So we took a few things apart where we finally figured out where the water was coming from. Between the scuper and the through hull. There was a leak in one of the hoses.

Don had to climb into the dry locker that is about 3ft deep and about 2ft wide.

And there he goes climbing in to replace the hose.

Squeezed himself in. And fixed it. No more leak. What a good husband to put himself in such an awkward  position.

BEQUIA, GRENADINES

BEQUIA, GRENADINES

APRIL 13- 18, 2017

The distance from Clifton Harbor, Union Island to Bequia is 37 nm.  The day we departed, the wind was out of the ESE 15-18 kts; seas 3’.  This gave us perfect conditions to fetch Bequia in one tack after clearing Union Island.  We departed Clifton at 0724 hrs and dropped anchor in Bequia at 1400 hrs: (13-00.612’ N; 061-14.608’ W). It was one of the best sails we have experienced under a double reefed main and genoa.  I kept the double reefed mainsail because, running up the leeward side of the islands, strong katabatic wind gusts rush down the mountains and ravines heeling the boat over.  I smile and enjoy it with a monohull but, in 1978, with the Wharram Catamaran, it was a concern because a catamaran will not heel to spill the wind therefore the rigging is vulnerable.

I have been trying to reminisce and put together just where we anchored in Admiralty Bay in 1978 on the 40’ Narai Mk IV Wharram Catamaran.  We took a dinghy ride today around the entire bay and have decided that it was in Lower Bay: 12-59.842’ N; 061-14.717’ W.  It is the only place that has the remaining coconut trees that I remember.  At that time, we had a friend named Gary Gilbert that was crewing for us.  We had picked him up at Bridgetown, Barbados.  He would become a lifelong friend.  Also, if memory serves me well, we had taken on a couple whose marriage was falling apart.  At that time, I was still playing guitar and the man taught me the words and music to Fats Waller’s song “Black and Blue”.  Phyllis was pregnant but didn’t know it.  There was a Frenchman named Philipe who had built a boat on Isla de Lobos in the Canary Islands.  We met him and then Gary and I walked over the mountain to the windward side of Bequia and caught six large lobsters.  That evening, we had a feast on the beach with Philipe and locals.

I don’t remember the town of Bequia at all.  That isn’t so surprising because we didn’t have any money to spend there.  Also, I can only recall a few boats where we anchored; one belonged to Philipe and he had a stern line running to a coconut tree.

Bequia today remains an island of sailors and boats linked to the outside world mainly by the sea.  The island still has an active whaling station in a low-key and traditional way.  They are allowed to take four whales a year but don’t  get many because few people are left with the skills necessary to hunt them – a daring feat in an open sailing boat, using hand thrown harpoons.  Bequians continue to build their traditional wooden double ended sailing boats in the shade of palm trees and sheds.  As I am writing this, it is the annual Easter Bequia Regatta that began today (April 14^th and goes through Sunday April 16^th).  The first race today was in Admiralty Bay; tomorrow they sail to Friendship Bay; on Sunday all the way around the island.  Lots of sailors here and cruisers are allowed to participate in their own class.  We don’t race.

In contrast to Clifton Harbor, Bequia is clean.  There is a sense of civil pride in the locals.  They are proud people,” descendants of settlers who came from North America on whaling boats, from farms in Scotland, from France as freebooters, and as slaves from Africa”.  This French freebooting has a long history and is alive and well today in the cruising world.  I think there is a mooching gene involved.  Nevertheless, I admire the intelligence, originality and courage of the French sailors we have met.

Bequia is a town of local artists, restaurants, fruit and veggies markets, boat building supplies, tour guides, dive shops, supermarkets, etc.; just about anything you might want can be found somewhere.  The Rastas are doing well in the Veggie Market and the smell of ganja is enticing.  Most of the businesses are owned by locals with a smattering of foreigners.  It appears that there is enough money flowing around to keep everyone solvent.  There is a feeling that they like you as well as the money you bring.  I didn’t get that feeling at Union Island.

Sinc we have arrive during the Easter festivities, Customs and Immigration will not be open until Tuesday April 18^th.  Originally, I was going to check out at Chauteaubelair on the west coast of St Vincent and then sail to Marigot Bay at St Lucia.  Given the delays, we will check out here in Bequia and sail directly for St Anne’s Bay (14-26.064’ N; 060-53.512’ W) on the island of Martinique: 90 nm.  If we leave here at 1500 hrs on April 18^th, we should arrive at St Anne’s Bay around 0900 hrs on April 19^th.

UNION ISLAND, GRENADINES

UNION ISLAND, GRENADINES

APRIL 11-13, 2017

We set sail from Tyrell Bay at 0818 on April 11^th.  It’s a short hop of 13 nm from Tyrell Bay to Clifton Harbor, Union Island.  This is the administrative center for the Grenadines because it is a Marine Park that encompasses the Tobago Cays (not to be confused with the island of Tobago).  These Cays reputedly offer some of the finest snorkeling and diving to be found anywhere.  They are protected from the sea by Horseshoe Reef but still open to the full force of the ocean winds.  The St Vincent and Grenadines Park Service charges about $US 4 per day per person.  Mooring are available for $US 45 per night. We didn’t have time to go into this area and Phyllis doesn’t snorkel so it wasn’t worth the time.

WE picked up one of the National Park Service Moorings (12-35,793’ N;061-24.836’ W) in Clifton Harbor: $US 22 per night.  The moorings are well maintained and strong.  Given the amount of traffic that is buzzing around, I felt that the mooring was the best bet but I could have anchored.  In addition to the Tobago Cays, Clifton Harbor is protected by a reef that shows off its brilliant kaleidoscopic colors and patterns as you sail in.  The expanse of brilliant green-turquoise and brown are stunning. 

Once we were moored, our eyes caught this amazing display of kiteboarding.  It appears that Union is the kiteboarding center of the Windward Islands.  Unfortunately, Clifton is not as beautiful and pristine as its surroundings.  It has a colorful picture- perfect market around a green and some small buildings that, architecturally, are interesting.  Outside of this, the town has a run-down dinginess that is hard to forgive.  The locals don’t seem to have that special “Keep Clifton Clean” attitude.  There are some good restaurants and eateries as well as hiking trails.  We only had a very small view of the whole so, maybe, there is more to recommend it.

Given that this town is totally dedicated to tourism arriving in planes and boats, it isn’t surprising that the prices reflect the clientele.  I tried to buy a small 10 lb watermelon and, after bargaining, could not get the price below $US1.50 per lb so I walked away.  Tuna, Conch and Mahi-Mahi are caught daily and cheap.

We departed Union Island at 0724 hrs on April 13, 2017 for Bequia.  In 1978, on the 40’ Ocean-going Wharram Catamaran that we had spent six years in the Canary Islands building, Bequia was as far South in the Windward Islands that we sailed.  After that, we sailed north to Martinique and Antigua.  We are now picking up that track again and, as before, will make a landing on the east Florida coast.

CARRIACOU, GRENADA

CARRIACOU, GRENADA

APRIL 8-11, 2017

We departed Prickly Bay at 0718 hrs.  We had shifted from the Marina to one of their mooring buoys the day before so that we could get an early start.  It’s only 37 nm from Prickly Bay to Tyrell Bay on the island of Carriacou.  Enroute, about 5 nm north of Grenada, there is an active submarine volcano named Kick ‘em Jenny.  The government of Grenada has established a 1.5 km exclusion zone around it.  If they detect signs of rumbling, the zone is increased to 5 km.  Since there were no warnings issued, we infringed upon the exclusion zone to make our course line into Tyrell Bay.  The sail was pleasant with wind from the E 15-20kts; seas 4-6’.  We made fast to the mooring at 1630 hrs: 12-27.410’ N; 061-29,199’ E

Upon entering Tyrell Bay and preparing to anchor, a boat from Carriacou Marine Services approached and offered us a Mooring Buoy.  I had the anchor ready to drop but decided to take the mooring buoy for the two nights we were going to be there.  These mooring buoys are not cheap:  US$15 per night!  In fact, the Caribbean is not bargain priced.  Over the years yachts have grown bigger and their owners more affluent.  The tourist market reflects this affluence and locals know that money can be made from goods and services to the yachting community.

Tyrell Bay is another one of those beautiful places that yachts and tourists love to visit:  Beautiful sandy beaches under palm trees and friendly welcoming locals.  There are a few good restaurants and all offer free WiFi which is good.  Once again there is an active Cruiser’s Net on VHF 69 at 0730 hrs in the morning.  Hillsborough is the largest city and located about three miles north of Tyrell Bay.  It has just about everything the cruiser needs but is not as good as St George at Grenada.

One could spend more time in this lovely bay but we are now heading north, up the island chain, and over to the USVI’s.

PRICKLY BAY, GRENADA

PRICKLY BAY, GRENADA

MARCH 28- April 8, 2017

We set sail from Charlotteville, Tobago at 1742 (UTC-4) hrs on March 27 and arrived Prickly Bay Marina (11-59.907’ N; 061-45.550’ W) at 1154 (UTC-4) hrs.  It was a very pleasant sail with the wind out of the ESE and seas running 4-6’ with a clear starry night.  We were able to set the two poled out jibs and maintain about 5 kts.  We had a one kt current against us.

Prickly Bay has many contractors and marine services that cater to the yachting world.  Spice Island Marina has haul out facilities, small apartments and a very good Chandlery named Budget Marine.  It is centrally located and St George is a ten minute bus ride.  There are some big supermarkets in St George including an IGA.  Everything can be found to provision a yacht.  WE had to go to Prickly Bay for a Freon leak in the refrigeration unit and a leak in the floor of our Avon dinghy.

We had to “Med Moor” at the Prickly Bay Marina.  This consists of picking up a fixed mooring buoy for the bow of the boat and backing onto the pontoon and putting out two stern lines.  It doesn’t work well for a canoe stern boat because we weren’t able to get off.  Our friends on “Norsa” were next to us so we pulled ourselves alongside them and used their boat for getting on and off.  Once they left, we had to use our dinghy and go over to the dinghy dock to get on and off the boat.  We won’t Med Moor anymore unless it is absolutely necessary.

There are some beautiful bays on the Southern end of Grenada:  Clarks Court, Secrete Cove, Whisper Cove and Hog Island.  Many cruisers return to these beautiful places year after year.  There is an active Cruiser’s Net that comes on VHF 66 at 0730 hrs every morning except Sundays.  It is informative and helpful.  Just about anything can be arranged by requesting it.

Many yachties from the UK haul out for the hurricane season and fly back home.  Others stay and make arrangements to find a good “hurricane hole” should one threaten.  Grenada is slightly South of 12 degrees which means that the island is not frequented by tropical storms very often.  Grenada is a beautiful, friendly and welcoming place.  It values the yachts that choose to call there.

On to Tobago.

 From Fernando de Noronha to Tobago, it took us 15 days sailing,  with overall good weather. We went in to Charlotteville to check in. This place was recommended  from another cruiser and what a great place. Very laid back , a very good friendly and anchorage. We spent 5 days touring and interacting with the locals. We were also able to buy fresh vegetables  and fruits. All in all it was a great place to stop.

First 4 pictures are of sunsets and after  sunsets on the way to Tobago. 

Cemetery on the hill.

Local lady coming back from church with grandson.

Fishing nets out to dry.

Pictures of Charlotteville

seagulls and pelicans.

Lots and lots of seagulls and pelicans on the beach.

This is a beautiful cruise ship.Now I wouldn't mind taking a cruise on  her.

Taken from Solstice at anchor night before we left for Grenada.

 These two picture were taken coming in to Tobago.

You can see the hole better on this picture. The back ground is St Giles island.

This is our first place we went to after checking in with custom and immigration. The lady in the back ground,  Layada made us a rum punch.

CHARLOTTEVILLE, TOBAGO

CHARLOTTEVILLE, TOBAGO

MARCH 24-27, 2017 

We dropped anchor (11-19.805' N; 060-33.156' W) in Charlotteville at 1330 (UTC-4) hrs on March 24^th, 2017 after a 1933 nm passage from Fernando de Noronha.  Charlotteville is tucked away on the NE corner of Tobago.  It is a small village with brightly painted pastel colored houses.  The locals are friendly and welcoming.  They enjoy the laid back, easy going pace of the village.  There are a few restaurants and bars in the town but not much else.  We saw a Diving Shop and local fishermen will take tourists out for a fishing trip.  The village is made up of local fishermen that can catch big tuna not too far offshore.  There is a fish market that processes them for shipping elsewhere.  The clear in/out procedure with Customs and Immigration is easy: US$23.  My guess would be that there are less than 300 people living in the surrounding area.  The total population of Tobago was given as 54,000 by their census bureau. The best restaurant in Charlotteville is “The Suck Hole”.  There is another small organic restaurant called “Lucille’s”.  We didn’t eat there but, I believe, it is very good.  On Friday evenings, the Pentecostals/Baptists take over the public square and organize a religious gathering with a Band and boom boxes. It appears to be an old time revival gathering that lasts until late at night.

We rented a car with our cruising friends from “Norsa” –Norman & Sara- and toured the island.  The northern leeward side of the island is densely forested, mountainous and very green.  There are a few places where one could safely anchor overnight.  Along the way, there were a few coves and sandy beaches with restaurants.  Stone Haven would be the next best place after Charlotteville for an extended stay.  Along this stretch of coast is where the endangered Leatherback, Hawksbill and Green turtles come to lay their eggs.  The locals protect their nesting sites.

The southern windward side of Tobago is more populated than the leeward side.  Scarborough is the capital and main shopping center.  From what we have seen, it would not be a good place to anchor and check in.  Most yachts go around to Stone Haven or Charlotteville.  It is cooler and drier on this side of the island with the wind blowing from the ESE-E.  There are many small towns starting from Scarborough to Charlotteville.  Transportation is by minivan and prices based on distance.  We paid about US$6 for a one way trip to Scarborough.  It’s a long narrow winding road and takes about one hour fifteen minutes to go 45 km.  The drivers we had were skillful.

While we were in Charlotteville, a beautiful five masted sailing vessel, “Sea Cloud”, came in and anchored:  Stunningly beautiful with a full set of canvas for sailing.  After that, a cruise liner anchored for a day.  They provide some income for the town but, I believe, that most are carted off to tour other places on the island.

Tobago is a good stopover to somewhere else.  It is quiet, beautiful and welcoming.  If one likes hiking, snorkeling, diving and fishing, it is a great place to spend some time. We found that the town of Speyside, about 5 km from Charlotteville, had a few good restaurants.

We set sail from Charlotteville to Prickly Bay, Grenada at 1742( UTC-4) hrs on March 27, 2017.  It’s only 84 nm away so we planned an overnight sail with morning arrival at Prickly Bay.