Tuesday, December 6, 2011

STILL IN FT. LAUDERDALE

December 6, 2011

Yes, we're still here putting all the final details together.  The more research I do on the San Blas Islands off the coast of Panama, the more preparations I find necessary.  Two days ago I realized that Phyllis didn't have a  Yellow Fever Vaccination documented.  Fortunately, my union American Maritime Officers has a medical clinic in Dania Beach, Florida which is a short bus ride from our location at Las Olas Marina.  Off we went to the Medical Clinic.  Phyllis was given five vaccinations:  Yellow Fever, typhoid, measles, mumps and rubella, polio, tetanus.  My documentation was pretty much up-to-date so I only needed typhoid, measles, mumps and rubella.  Even though I am retired, all services from the AMO medical clinic are free.  It's a great Union and they take care of their members.

Today I realized that the Certificate of Documentation on the yacht had our old Mississippi address on it so the renewal form never came to our new address.  I called the USCG and was informed that I had to send in form CG-1280 which is an address change for the renewal.  It was one of the simplest US Government documents I have ever filled out.  Usually, I have to call the help desk just to decipher what they want and where to find them.

Tonight I discovered that it will be necessary to take Malaria pills before arriving in the San Blas Islands.  Tomorrow is another trip to the AMO Medical Clinic for these pills.  We keep finding these necessary items that have to be attended to, however, we are waiting on a Wx window anyway so no time is lost.

It is incredible how difficult it is to make a break with the land connection after so many years.  Everything revolves around a physical address, phone, email, credit cards, bank accounts, etc, etc.  All has to be attended to before we leave because our internet service will only be available in major ports on our itinerary.  This means that once we leave here, there will be no blog until we get to a place in Panama that has WiFi or an internet cafe.  My reports indicate that there is no internet service in the San Blas Islands.  They are owned and managed by the Kuna Yala Indians as a sovereign territory under Panamanian authority.

We plan to leave on Thursday but it might be Friday before the Wx calms down a bit for the crossing over the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas.  The Voyage Plans runs like this:  Ft. Lauderdale to the Northwest Passage in the Bahamas, sail down Exuma Sound to the West of Rum Cay, Crooked Is Passage to the Windward Passage,  South of Jamaica, El Porvenir in the San Blas Islands.  Total distance = 1300 nm.  I figure about 14 days sailing in some fairly boisterous Trade Winds blowing out of the NE-E.  Seas will average 6-9' which is normal on a Trade Wind Passage.  The tropical cyclone season is over and there are almost no gales on our intended route.  The Valiant 40 is a blue water boat and built to sail on the high seas.   If handled properly, she will take care of us in most conditions that mother nature decides to offer up.  The increasing prevalence of pirates and thieves are more of a concern than "mother ocean".  Still -all in all- sailing is still safer than crossing the street in many metropolitan areas of the world.

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

FT LAUDERDALEl

November 27, 2011

While we were at the dock waiting on a mooring ball we saw a boat vacate one so we started the engine and motored over to pick it up.  The mooring field is well protected but this particular mooring ball has the best protection of all.  The current here in Ft Lauderdale really rips along.  There are times when it is running 3 kts!  Ft Lauderdale is another one of those yachting meccas.  Like Annapolis, it has everything a cruiser needs.  We find it more expensive than the Annapolis counterpart.  Annapolis is a much friendlier place and, historically, more scenic and interesting.  It's now too cold to be up North so the warm Florida Wx is welcoming.

While we were in Delray Beach, Dan and Phyllis were  busy setting up the rigging for the outboard motor and Avon inflatable.  I was busy with the radio technician installing the SSB.  Now we'll see how all that comes out.

1200 hrs.  The dingy and outboard motor have been successfully launched!  Dan and Phyllis did a great job.  It appears that Phyllis and I will be able to do this ourselves with the help of a winch.  I was very satisfied with the rigging that Dan did to make it easy to launch the outboard.  We can now motor back and forth to the marina carrying supplies and taking showers.

November 28-29.  Shopping, shopping, shopping.  It doesn't stop.  Additionally, Dan recommended that the spare alternator I have onboard be taken to an electrical  shop and rebuilt.  This we did and got it back today.  Lots of electrical improvements will take place from Dan's recommendations and supplies we bought.  I will do most of this in the future.

In addition to being a professional tugboat Captain, Dan was a commercial and charter boat fisherman.  He has taken this experience and rigged up all our fishing equipment for the trip.  How wonderful is that!!  The end is in sight.  I'll take the next couple of days to work out the Passage Plan and details from Ft. Lauderdale to Panama.  We'll wait on a suitable Wx window to depart.  The trip is about 1300 miles but will be more with tacking and working the winds.  I'm thinking fourteen days to make the voyage but hope it will only be ten.

Dan left this evening to continue his professional life in the tugboat world.  Thank you, Dan,  for all the wonderful work and running around you did for us.

DELRAY BEACH TO FT. LAUDERDALE (20 MILES)

November 20-26, 2011

We departed Delray Beach Club Marina @ 1036 hrs this morning for Las Olas Marina in Ft Lauderdale.  We would like to pick up a mooring ball there.  There are eleven bridges to call between on this short distance of 20 miles:  just about one bridge every two miles.

In Delray Beach we had a good friend, Dan Morris, drive down from Panama City, FL to help us get everything ready for the Panama trip.  He has lots of knowledge concerning boats and their components so it has been invaluable to us.  We did lots of shopping for the Panama trip and will continue in Ft. Lauderdale.

We had Thanksgiving Dinner at a Greek Diner in Delray Beach.  It wasn't home but it was good.  Dan will stay with us for several days until we can supply the boat with spare parts and grub for the trip.

The Wx continues to be blustery with winds out of the NE to E.  Since we have been alongside a dock, it's not uncomfortable.  We continue preparing the boat.  It would have been almost impossible to do all this shopping without Dan's car at hand

We arrived at Las Olas Marina and were all fast at the dock at 1530 hrs.  Dan arrived at 1600 hrs.  We'll spend the night here and look out for a mooring ball tomorrow.  The marina maintains 10 mooring balls that are taken on a "first come, first served" basis.  They cost $35 per day which includes a dinghy tie up dock, showers, laundry, TV room and WiFi.

WE have had our Avon inflatable and Yamaha Engine onboard since Lake Michigan.  They have never been used!  Now we will get both into service.  The only way to get from the mooring field to the dock is by boat tender.  Every vessel moored here has one.

Sunday, November 20, 2011

WEST PALM BEACH ANCHORAGE TO DELRAY HARBOR CLUB MARINA (21 MILES)

November 20, 2011

There was no need to get up/get underway early this morning.  We have only 21 miles to go.  In this short span, we will have to negotiate passage through 10 bascule bridges.  These bridges split in the middle so each section is raised to allow passage.  Some of these are "on demand" so they raise the bridge after you call and they see you coming.  Others are only on the hour and half hour so they have to be timed for arrival.  Still others are on the quarter and three quarter hour.  It is necessary to have a Passage Plan made up with distance, names and times for openings.  The rest is like a pregnancy that is brought to term.  The worst scenario is to arrive at the bridge too early.  Then you have to hold position until the bridge tender opens up.  With wind, current and other boats jockying for position, you might run aground.  I like to be right on the tail end of all the traffic and when I see the bridge start to open, I shoot the juice to the Volvo Penta and she gratefully acknowledges my demand.

The wind was still blowing hard out of the East today.  When we arrived at the marina, we found that the floating docks were inside a small entrance that would be very difficult to enter.  Another bad sign was that only power boats were moored to these docks.  That makes me question if there is adequate water depth for the 6 ft that our vessel draws.  Given wind and uncertainty about the inside docks, I decided to lay alongside the outer face docks where fuel is taken on.  A little more swell from wind and passing traffic but safe and secure.  Shortly afterwards, another sailboat arrived and decided to do the same thing.  These are the times when you have to know the limitations of the vessel and yourself and just say "can't do" to the marina staff.

We arrived at the marina and were made fast to the fuel dock at 1430 hrs.  Delray Harbor Marina is at Mile Marker 1040.7 on the ICW.  Norfolk, VA is Mile Marker 0.  That's a lot of motor sailing!  We'll be here a few days while the new SSB is installed.  This will be interesting and expensive.

Saturday, November 19, 2011

VERO BEACH TO WEST PALM BEACH ANCHORAGE (70 MILES)

November 19, 2011 Saturday

We woke up this morning to a diminished NE'ly wind @ 15 kts.  Departed the mooring at 0730 hrs.  I decided to carry the jib today and gained an extra knot.   The early morning brought several rain squalls so we ended up in foul weather gear.  The afternoon was bright, warm and sunny.

There are many bridges that cross the ICW in this part of Florida.  The fixed bridges have a mandated 65 ft vertical clearance.  Our mast stands 55 ft above the water line so they present no problem.  The Rail Road, bascule and swing bridges that do not have adequate vertical height are opened on demand by calling on VHF Channel 09 and requesting an opening. Some of these only open on the hour, half hour or every twenty minutes.  We  went through eleven bridges today.  Five of these were "on demand" so there is a small waiting period.  Nevertheless, we averaged seven miles per hour and made West Palm Beach just after sunset: long may that big jib draw!

This part of the ICW is quite beautiful:  lots of birds of every description.  The majority of it is made up of mangrove swamps: perfect habitat for wildlife.  As one approaches Palm Beach, the multi-million dollar mansions start to appear along the ICW.  Bernie Madoff's is there somewhere with a "For Sale" sign on it.  Just what do these excessive millionaires do with a forty room mansion?  Some are so big that one can't imagine how they find their way around.

Once you arrive in West Palm Beach, there are the excessive millionaires with waterfront property and the very poor around the industrial port area.  When I was a tugboat captain, I used to come into WPB to load raw sugar for points North.  The immediate area just out side the port is quite dangerous at night.  It is frequented by gangs, drug addicts and prostitutes.  Several of our crew members were mugged during their excursions ashore.

At 1745 hrs, we dropped anchor just South and East of the main port in 15 ft of water.  This particular anchorage is used by many of the yachts waiting on a Wx window to cross over to the Bahamas which are only sixty miles distant from here.  At the moment, there are many waiting because the Wx has been uncooperative.  The Western Wall of the Gulf Stream influences Lake Worth Inlet and meanders fairly close to shore.  Any wind from the North quadrant that blows against it sets up a nasty chop and steep seas.  No one wants to venture out in this kind of weather so they wait for that Wx window.  Right now this won't happen until next Tuesday or Wednesday.

Tomorrow will be an easy day since we only have twenty miles to go to reach Delray Harbor Club Marina. This is where the new SSB will be installed.  I have everything set up with the technician for Monday morning @ 0900 hrs.  It will take a few days to get everything sorted out.  The end result should be world wide communication regardless of where we are.

Our Valiant 40 "Solstice" has been well cared for and led a charmed life in the fresh waters of Lake Michigan, however, she was not ready for a circumnavigation.  That is what we have been preparing for and the end is in sight.  The yacht is more that capable of undertaking this voyage and will keep us safe as long as she is handled well.  Just about anyone who owns a Valiant has "blue water" ambitions.  These boats are made to make transoceanic voyages.  Some of the older ones have several circumnavigations under their keels.  The boat can do it:  can we?

Friday, November 18, 2011

COCOA BEACH ANCHORAGE TO VERO BEACH MOORING FIELD (50 MILES)

November 18, 2011

We woke up this morning to a rip roaring NE wind blowing 20-25 kts.  I anticipated this last night and put out 120' of chain in 10 ft of water: 12:1 scope.  That is the wonderful part of anchoring in 10' depths, one can let out a lot of scope and sleep soundly.  Phyllis had to motor up to the anchor while I cranked in the windlass and manned the wash down hose.  Worked out quite well.

It was very windy all day and continues from the NE-E this evening.  Most of the day was spent "crabbing" down the channels with such strong wind.  This is a new technique for Phyllis so I did most of the helming today.  Even on the ICW, where there are long open areas between the beach and the mainland, conditions are rough with lots of spray.  Although we carried no sail today, the vessel was still heeled over due to the wind.  We could have carried sail without any problem and made much better speed but I was concerned that if we had a grounding the sail would increase the problem by driving us further onto the shoal area.

We arrived at Vero Beach Marina and Mooring Field at 1530 and rafted up to another vessel called "Gypsy Song".  It is 44 ft  1979 Bob Perry design built by Choy Lee.  These vessels were built in Hong Kong from the 1950's until the mid 1980's.  They are very beautiful to behold but have too much varnish work to keep up.  I had considered buying one during my research for a "blue water' boat.

A mooring field is a place where the marina puts out mooring buoys and rents them at very reasonable rates.  They are much cheaper that taking a slip at the marina.  These mooring buoys cost $13.90 per day.  When Wx conditions are bad, the marina will put two or three boats to a mooring rather that turning someone away.  That is our situation tonight.

Tomorrow we head towards Jupiter Inlet that is about 50 miles distant.  The following day will find us at Mile 1047 at the Delray Harbor Club Marina.  This is where the new SSB will be installed by Dave Lamplighter.  He comes highly recommended by Annapolis Harbor Boatyard.

It's 2100 hrs and it's still blowing hard out there.  Hopefully, the winds will diminish somewhat tomorrow.

Thursday, November 17, 2011

PONCE DE LEON ANCHORAGE TO COCOA BEACH ANCHORAGE (55 MILES)

November 17, 2011

Up early this morning and got underway at 0620.  Ran aground on soft mud enroute to the ICW.  Not a good way to start the day.  We managed to work out way off the mud lump and continue on.  The wind has been out of the SW to W  so we set out jib and motor sailed along at 6.5 kts.  It was a warm day on the ICW.  The cold Wx is behind us.  Lots of wildlife along the shores and we saw one manatee.  Dolphins are everywhere.

Tonight we are anchored in Cocoa Beach just South of the Merritt Island Bridge on the West Bank (28 deg 20.0' N x 80 deg 43.1' W).  The wind has started to pick up out of the NW and is blowing 20+ kts.  I am in 10 ft of water and have let out 120' ft of chain.  Life is good on the hook.

After anchoring, I had to climb up the mast this evening to free up the mainsail halyard.  Yesterday in Ponce de Leon anchorage, a hundred or so blackbirds landed on the rigging.  I didn't want that much bird shit on the boat and sail covers so I sent up an artificial owl to frighten them.  I got jammed half way up the mast and I couldn't retrieve it because it was too light.  This was an over reaction on my part that accomplished nothing but climbing the mast. We got the blackbirds off by shaking the rigging shrouds and yelling.  From 40' up the mast, the view is great!

Tomorrow we motor to Vero Beach which is 50 miles distant.