March 29, 2012
Well we´re still in Baquerizo Moreno waiting on mail. It appears that our mail is held up by Customs in Guayaquil, Ecuador. The reason appears to be two small anodes for the Volvo Penta engine. Our friend and fellow shipmate, John, had purchased these for me and sent them to our mail address. When I had the shipment posted via FedEx from St. Brendan´s Isle, it was flagged by Customs. I might have to have it forewarded to Acadamy Bay in Santa Cruz if it doesn´t arrive by next Tuesday. Getting mail has become a major problem. It doesn´t seem to make any difference if you use FedEx or not. They don´t seem to have a timely procedure to get it cleared from Customs.
Yesterday it rained from mid morning to early afternoon. We managed to catch 20 gallons of water with containers. If we had a more efficient way we could have captured 100 gallons. Everyone in the anchorage was on deck taking showers and gathering rainwater. Today it is raining again and a huge swell has set in from the SW. GRIB files ( these files come from NOAA and other sources and show the predicted wind, wave pattern over several days) show heavy weather in the Southern Ocean that is generating the swell. Just beyond the anchorage there are 10 ft waves breaking on the reef. The anchorage has a 6 ft swell rolling in and the boats are dancing and rolling all over the place. I had wanted to climb the mast once again but not in this swell! Instead we left the boat and came into town to view the big surf in "La Loberia". This is the place where we swam with the turtles and Manta Rays. Today it was being pounded by 10 ft waves. Phyllis will post some pictures on the blog.
I starting to get anxious to move over to Isabela Island and then Acadamy Bay in Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island. This will be our final island in the Galapagos. We will provision, get our sailing clearance papers (zarpe) and start the long voyage to the Marquesas. Right now there has been little to no wind and those that have left have been motoring and lying ahull. They are making a slow go of it. Maybe we´ll be more fortunate and find some wind when we leave.
In the meantime, it´s a great place to be. The harbor is well protected so we´ll stay here until the mail arrives or the swell diminishes.
What we have here on San Cristobal are sea lions. The difference between a seal and a sea lion is that the latter have visable small ears.
Thursday, March 29, 2012
Wednesday, March 21, 2012
The few pictures are of a tour we took of the Island. Will post more tomorrow as the Computer is very slow
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| Sone church on the hill, now abandoned |
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| Inside the Church |
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| Lake inside a volcanic crater. |
SAN CRISTOBAL, GALAPAGOS
March 21, 2012
We have been on the island for 10 days and taken several excursions to some interesting places. Yesterday we went to the "galapaguera" (giant tortoise breeding station) on the Eastern side of the island. There is a scientific breeding program there that ensures that the giant turtles of San Cristobal will survive changed environmental conditions. It appears that rats and wild cats prey upon the eggs and young that are laid in the sand on many of the Eastern beaches. Additionally, there is some concern that any environmental disaster could wipe out the natural habitats of these ancient creatures. Therefore, about 25 Galapagos (giant turtles) have been moved to the breeding station and placed in semi-captivity. From this stock come eggs then young. Once the have reached 10-12 years old they will be reintroduced in their natural habitat on the Northeastern tip of the island. San Cristobal has only one species of Galapago. Some of the other island have as many as 8 different species. Once we move from here to Isabela we´ll have more info on the various breeding programs.
San Cristobal has very fertile soil and in the higher elevations it cools considerably and rains. They grow bananas, papaya, guayaba, blackberries, many vegetables and other fruit. The island is quite green and has adequate water supplies in the higher elevations but not on the ocean side. As a result, the first town, Poblado, on the island was about 3 miles inland. There was adequate water and a much cooler environment. All of the farmers have been "grandfathered" into the National Park regulations and can continue to grow fruit and pursue other activities forbidden to recent arrivals. Consequently, there are cows and other livestock on many of the "fincas" (farms).
The Galapagos are a step back in time when life was much simpler. For those of us who were on the road travelling in the 60´s and 70´s, it brings back memories of an easier going time. Even the town has this quaintness about it that was found in many of the places in Spain and Europe. It is a wonderful place to be and enjoy its uniqueness. Being volcanic, it has many similar features to the Canary Islands. On La Gomera in the Canary Is, the inhabitants used a form of whistling to get some ones attention. The same thing happens here: a low unobtrusive whistle to get attention. Everyone uses it and its very effective without being annoying. In the ten days that we have been here we haven´t heard anyone honk a horn or make rude noises. The only honkers are the ubiquitous sea lions.
Last night we received our official permission to travel to other islands. This is a special document called an "autografo" that comes from the Minister of the Interior and grants an extended stay and right to visit other designated ports in the Galapagos. Without this document an arriving vessel has to remain in the same port of arrival for the twenty days that are given. We had an excellent agent, Bolivar Pesantes, that was able to arrange it: cost $400. Even at that exorbitant price they just aren´t given out to every yacht that requests it. In lieu of an "autografo" one can leave the yacht anchored in Baquerizo Moreno and travel via ferry to the other islands. We have discovered that due to our refrigeration system being engine driven, someone had to be onboard to crank up the engine three times a day. Esentially, this makes us slaves to the "reefer". Without the "autografo" we would have had to leave one of us onboard while the other took a ferry to the islands for a few days at a time. Gracias a Dios, this problem has been solved by a wonderful agent.
We plan to be in the islands for another two weeks. Part of the time factor is waiting for the end of the tropical cyclone season in the South Pacific. The Marquesas are at the Eastern fringe end of the cyclone belt and rarely get hit with a tropical system but, officially, it doesn´t end until the later part of April. We will play it safe: It will take us about 25 days to reach Hiva Oa island and clear in at Atuona: 3000 nm. This will be in early May when the possibility of a tropical system migrating into the area is remote.
We have been on the island for 10 days and taken several excursions to some interesting places. Yesterday we went to the "galapaguera" (giant tortoise breeding station) on the Eastern side of the island. There is a scientific breeding program there that ensures that the giant turtles of San Cristobal will survive changed environmental conditions. It appears that rats and wild cats prey upon the eggs and young that are laid in the sand on many of the Eastern beaches. Additionally, there is some concern that any environmental disaster could wipe out the natural habitats of these ancient creatures. Therefore, about 25 Galapagos (giant turtles) have been moved to the breeding station and placed in semi-captivity. From this stock come eggs then young. Once the have reached 10-12 years old they will be reintroduced in their natural habitat on the Northeastern tip of the island. San Cristobal has only one species of Galapago. Some of the other island have as many as 8 different species. Once we move from here to Isabela we´ll have more info on the various breeding programs.
San Cristobal has very fertile soil and in the higher elevations it cools considerably and rains. They grow bananas, papaya, guayaba, blackberries, many vegetables and other fruit. The island is quite green and has adequate water supplies in the higher elevations but not on the ocean side. As a result, the first town, Poblado, on the island was about 3 miles inland. There was adequate water and a much cooler environment. All of the farmers have been "grandfathered" into the National Park regulations and can continue to grow fruit and pursue other activities forbidden to recent arrivals. Consequently, there are cows and other livestock on many of the "fincas" (farms).
The Galapagos are a step back in time when life was much simpler. For those of us who were on the road travelling in the 60´s and 70´s, it brings back memories of an easier going time. Even the town has this quaintness about it that was found in many of the places in Spain and Europe. It is a wonderful place to be and enjoy its uniqueness. Being volcanic, it has many similar features to the Canary Islands. On La Gomera in the Canary Is, the inhabitants used a form of whistling to get some ones attention. The same thing happens here: a low unobtrusive whistle to get attention. Everyone uses it and its very effective without being annoying. In the ten days that we have been here we haven´t heard anyone honk a horn or make rude noises. The only honkers are the ubiquitous sea lions.
Last night we received our official permission to travel to other islands. This is a special document called an "autografo" that comes from the Minister of the Interior and grants an extended stay and right to visit other designated ports in the Galapagos. Without this document an arriving vessel has to remain in the same port of arrival for the twenty days that are given. We had an excellent agent, Bolivar Pesantes, that was able to arrange it: cost $400. Even at that exorbitant price they just aren´t given out to every yacht that requests it. In lieu of an "autografo" one can leave the yacht anchored in Baquerizo Moreno and travel via ferry to the other islands. We have discovered that due to our refrigeration system being engine driven, someone had to be onboard to crank up the engine three times a day. Esentially, this makes us slaves to the "reefer". Without the "autografo" we would have had to leave one of us onboard while the other took a ferry to the islands for a few days at a time. Gracias a Dios, this problem has been solved by a wonderful agent.
We plan to be in the islands for another two weeks. Part of the time factor is waiting for the end of the tropical cyclone season in the South Pacific. The Marquesas are at the Eastern fringe end of the cyclone belt and rarely get hit with a tropical system but, officially, it doesn´t end until the later part of April. We will play it safe: It will take us about 25 days to reach Hiva Oa island and clear in at Atuona: 3000 nm. This will be in early May when the possibility of a tropical system migrating into the area is remote.
Sunday, March 18, 2012
Some of the wild life of Baquerizo Moreno and more.
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| A time to share after being booted of another boat |
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| Pelican |
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| Found refuge on another boat |
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| Iguana getting ready to run |
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| Camouflaged Iguana |
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| Seagull |
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| The big surf |
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| Pepito the hundred year old turtle |
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| The invasion of the seals |
SWIMMING WITH GIANT TURTLES, MANTA RAYS AND SEALS
March 14, 2012
The long voyage to the Galapagos finds new friends on other yachts that have been anchored in the same places along the way. So it is and we made friends with a yacht called "Mary Madelein". We had heard them in the San Blas Isalnds, met them in Shelter Bay Marina on the Atlantic side and once again in Las Playitas on the Pacific side. We kept in contact on the voyage to San Cristobal via SSB everyday and then anchored in together. All this resulted in a trip on the island to a place called "The Loberia". It is on the windward side of San Cristobal with big surfing waves and a protected cove where one can swim with giant turtles, seals and manta rays. What makes this so unique is the absence of fear to humans in close contact. A sense of sadness overcame me to realize how these defenseless turtles we slaughtered to the point of extinction by virtually every human enterprise that came to the islands. These are the marine turtles: the giant land tortoises fared even worse and are slowly being reintroduce to the islands under scientific breeding programs. There is a "galapaguera" (breeding station) on San Cristobal that we will visit in the near future. It is reported that they have about 80 of the giant tortoises that they are using for breeding. To date we have seen one of the giant tortoises in the back of a church here in Baquerizo M. They are providing it will with everything it needs but it looks so very lonely in its captive habitat.
It has been one of the most exciting swims that Phyllis or I have ever done. Standing in five feet of water with giant marine turtles and manta rays is spectacular. The seals just add to the drama! On our walk back, along very well made volcanic stone access walkways, we saw the famous marine iguanas sunning themselves on the volcanic rocks. Again, there is no fear of humans. If they scurry away they spit a type of liquid that can be seen. In addition to the marine iguanas, I saw a black land iguana. Phyllis took some pictures of it and will post them on the blog.
The island reminds us of the Canary Islands: both are volcanic in origin and buffeted by the Trade Winds. San Cristobal has more moisture and rain so it is greener. We could spend quite a bit of time here under different circumstances. It´s wonderful to be out of the hustle and bustle of the USA but still have most of the amenities in a very relaxed environment with a unique flora and fauna.
The long voyage to the Galapagos finds new friends on other yachts that have been anchored in the same places along the way. So it is and we made friends with a yacht called "Mary Madelein". We had heard them in the San Blas Isalnds, met them in Shelter Bay Marina on the Atlantic side and once again in Las Playitas on the Pacific side. We kept in contact on the voyage to San Cristobal via SSB everyday and then anchored in together. All this resulted in a trip on the island to a place called "The Loberia". It is on the windward side of San Cristobal with big surfing waves and a protected cove where one can swim with giant turtles, seals and manta rays. What makes this so unique is the absence of fear to humans in close contact. A sense of sadness overcame me to realize how these defenseless turtles we slaughtered to the point of extinction by virtually every human enterprise that came to the islands. These are the marine turtles: the giant land tortoises fared even worse and are slowly being reintroduce to the islands under scientific breeding programs. There is a "galapaguera" (breeding station) on San Cristobal that we will visit in the near future. It is reported that they have about 80 of the giant tortoises that they are using for breeding. To date we have seen one of the giant tortoises in the back of a church here in Baquerizo M. They are providing it will with everything it needs but it looks so very lonely in its captive habitat.
It has been one of the most exciting swims that Phyllis or I have ever done. Standing in five feet of water with giant marine turtles and manta rays is spectacular. The seals just add to the drama! On our walk back, along very well made volcanic stone access walkways, we saw the famous marine iguanas sunning themselves on the volcanic rocks. Again, there is no fear of humans. If they scurry away they spit a type of liquid that can be seen. In addition to the marine iguanas, I saw a black land iguana. Phyllis took some pictures of it and will post them on the blog.
The island reminds us of the Canary Islands: both are volcanic in origin and buffeted by the Trade Winds. San Cristobal has more moisture and rain so it is greener. We could spend quite a bit of time here under different circumstances. It´s wonderful to be out of the hustle and bustle of the USA but still have most of the amenities in a very relaxed environment with a unique flora and fauna.
ARRIVAL IN BAQUERIZO MORENO, SAN CRISTOBAL ISLAND, GALAPAGOS
March 12, 2012
After a night of motoring against very strong currents setting to the SE and lying ahull, we ended up seven nm off Baquerizo Moreno. Dawn revealed a very clear view of the capital so we set our course to 183 degrees to arrive off the harbor entrance. The SE setting current was so strong that we had to steer 165 degrees to make good 183 deg. It´s a little bazaar to be sliding down a course line while pointing off in another direction. It´s something I´m used to and have experienced on tugs under exceptional Wx and current conditions but it´s been a long time. The end result was ending up on our course line at the harbor entrance. The anchorage was obvious with all the yachts anchored there. We dropped anchor in 25 ft of water at 0830 hrs. The procedure for clearing into most countries is to have the courtesy flag of the country raised on a starboard side flag halyard and underneath it a yellow quarantine flag indicating that the vessel requests "free pratique". This will be followed up by the appropriate authorities: Health, Customs and Immigration. An agent is required for entry into the Galapagos. Within a short time after anchoring a "panga" (water taxi) will come alongside and ask if you have an agent. There are several vying for the business so if you don´t have a specific name one will request to represent you. A lot of info comes through the net services on the SSB so we had an agent´s name. Once we gave that to the "panga" he indicated that Bolivar Pesantes would show up in awhile. That is just what happened: Along comes our agent with port officials. It´s a great help to be fluent in Spanish and we feel so comfortable to be back in a Spanish speaking country. Additionally, all officialdom becomes very accommodating when addressed in their own language. Everything was completed in short order but we had to wait several hours for the Immigration official to show up. It was 1700 hrs before we were finally cleared.
The "pangas" do all the transporting from the vessels to the docks and back again: $1.00 US. The currency used in the Galapagos is the once mighty US dollar. All ATM´s dispense it down to our penny. It sure makes life a lot easier! The swell generated by the Pacific makes landing in a dinghy impracticable and dangerous. Additionally, a safe place is so far away that it isn´t worth while. End result, everyone uses the pangas and everybody is content.
First view of Baquerizo Moreno is impressive: A beautiful seaside town that is very clean and well organized. As a result of the Galapagos being designated a National Park, every effort is made to ensure an ecological approach to all foreign matter and disposal. The result is clean waters and a pretty town stretched along a "paseo maritimo" (maritime walkway). These "paseos maritimos" are common in most Spanish influenced countries. What makes this one so different are the seals and sea lions: they are ensconced everywhere! After disembarking from a panga, the first thing the visitor witnesses are the seals sleeping on benches, steps and stones. They have absolutely no fear of humans! These seals are wonderful to behold but they have the rank smell of rotting fish. Each one of them consumes a terrific amount in a day. They are quite playful but spend most of the day sleeping around on whatever thing they can find, including yachts with spoon type transoms. As long as the wind is blowing their rank smell in the other direction it´s wonderful to observe them. The best way to describe Baquerizo Moreno would be to compare it to a hiker, diver, yacht place one might find on the Eastern Seaboard like Maine. There are tour boats for diving, visiting other islands and general excursions. Additionally, taxis are available to travel anywhere. This town is remote but quite modern in all aspects. The inhabitants are friendly and welcoming to the extreme.
After a night of motoring against very strong currents setting to the SE and lying ahull, we ended up seven nm off Baquerizo Moreno. Dawn revealed a very clear view of the capital so we set our course to 183 degrees to arrive off the harbor entrance. The SE setting current was so strong that we had to steer 165 degrees to make good 183 deg. It´s a little bazaar to be sliding down a course line while pointing off in another direction. It´s something I´m used to and have experienced on tugs under exceptional Wx and current conditions but it´s been a long time. The end result was ending up on our course line at the harbor entrance. The anchorage was obvious with all the yachts anchored there. We dropped anchor in 25 ft of water at 0830 hrs. The procedure for clearing into most countries is to have the courtesy flag of the country raised on a starboard side flag halyard and underneath it a yellow quarantine flag indicating that the vessel requests "free pratique". This will be followed up by the appropriate authorities: Health, Customs and Immigration. An agent is required for entry into the Galapagos. Within a short time after anchoring a "panga" (water taxi) will come alongside and ask if you have an agent. There are several vying for the business so if you don´t have a specific name one will request to represent you. A lot of info comes through the net services on the SSB so we had an agent´s name. Once we gave that to the "panga" he indicated that Bolivar Pesantes would show up in awhile. That is just what happened: Along comes our agent with port officials. It´s a great help to be fluent in Spanish and we feel so comfortable to be back in a Spanish speaking country. Additionally, all officialdom becomes very accommodating when addressed in their own language. Everything was completed in short order but we had to wait several hours for the Immigration official to show up. It was 1700 hrs before we were finally cleared.
The "pangas" do all the transporting from the vessels to the docks and back again: $1.00 US. The currency used in the Galapagos is the once mighty US dollar. All ATM´s dispense it down to our penny. It sure makes life a lot easier! The swell generated by the Pacific makes landing in a dinghy impracticable and dangerous. Additionally, a safe place is so far away that it isn´t worth while. End result, everyone uses the pangas and everybody is content.
First view of Baquerizo Moreno is impressive: A beautiful seaside town that is very clean and well organized. As a result of the Galapagos being designated a National Park, every effort is made to ensure an ecological approach to all foreign matter and disposal. The result is clean waters and a pretty town stretched along a "paseo maritimo" (maritime walkway). These "paseos maritimos" are common in most Spanish influenced countries. What makes this one so different are the seals and sea lions: they are ensconced everywhere! After disembarking from a panga, the first thing the visitor witnesses are the seals sleeping on benches, steps and stones. They have absolutely no fear of humans! These seals are wonderful to behold but they have the rank smell of rotting fish. Each one of them consumes a terrific amount in a day. They are quite playful but spend most of the day sleeping around on whatever thing they can find, including yachts with spoon type transoms. As long as the wind is blowing their rank smell in the other direction it´s wonderful to observe them. The best way to describe Baquerizo Moreno would be to compare it to a hiker, diver, yacht place one might find on the Eastern Seaboard like Maine. There are tour boats for diving, visiting other islands and general excursions. Additionally, taxis are available to travel anywhere. This town is remote but quite modern in all aspects. The inhabitants are friendly and welcoming to the extreme.
Friday, March 16, 2012
CONTADORA, LAS PERLAS TO GALAPAGOS
March 3-12, 2012
Here it is: the day of departure for the Galapagos: 875 nm. We woke up to a beautiful clear day with light winds out of the North. We got underway at 0915 hrs and set the Main and Jib. Could have used a little more wind but "Solstice" was still sailing along at 4.0 kts. By noontime we were becalmed but the wind picked up again at 1445 and we sailed along all through the night with a N´ly wind at 10-12 kts and higher gusts averaging 6.0 kts.
March 4th, 2012
Still sailing along with light N´ly winds and 3-4´seas. Our noon position indicated that we we had made good 112 nm at 4.7 kts average speed; DTG 0 763 nm. At 1800 hrs the wind died so we dropped the sails and let the current carry us along throughout the night. Surprisingly enough there was a 1.7 kt current carrying us along the course line. During the night a school of Dolphins dropped by to say "Hi". Starry skies, no wind and the sounds of Mother Ocean: being becalmed has its rewards.
March 5, 2012
Wind came up at 0345 this morning out of the NW at 20 kts and gusty. We set the jib and sailed along at 6.0 kts. I don´t like to work the deck at night unless it is absolutely necessary. It isn´t so bad with smaller seas but requires being tethered up and holding on while setting the Mainsail. By 0600 hrs the wind had veered into the NNE at 15 kts and it was daylight so we set the Mainsail and were sailing at 6.0 kts. Our noon position indicated that from noon yesterday until noon today DMG = 78 nm, DTG = 676 nm. By 1948 hrs we were becalmed once again. The current has increased in strength and is carrying us along at 2.7 kts and setting down at 204 degrees. It is strong enough to allow the autopilot to helm the yacht with all sails droped and not a whisper of wind. I have never witnessed an autopilot helming a vessel 10.5 hrs with nothing but current. A little more sea this evening so we are rolling around a little more but it is quite bearable.
March 6, 2012
At 0700 hrs the wind came back to visit us so we got underway with Main & Jib. Noon position calculates that DMG (noon-noon) = 87 nm, DTG = 589 nm. The day brings only very light winds out of the ENE and then veers briefly into the SE quadrant at Beaufort 2-3 (7-10 kts). This doesn´t last very long and we are becalmed once again at 1800 hrs. The current is still favorable and carries us along at 1.5 kts.
March 7, 2012
At 0030 hrs a fresh wind from the ESE springs up with some huff to it at 15 kts. We set the Jib and sail along at 5.8 kts. This wind backs into the ENE and freshens to 20 kts. We carry a reefed mainsail and jib. Noon position calculates that DMG = 103 nm at 4.3 ktsñ DTG = 486 nm. This ENE wind holds throughout the day and we sail along at 5.0 kts.
March 8, 2012
With the increase in wind comes an increase of seas which are now running 8´ with a few higher swells. At 0800 hrs we double reef the Mainsail and roll in a little Jib. I´m being cautious here but I am learning that the Valiant can carry full Main and Jib in 20 kts winds and make 8 kts. I prefer to carry less sail and not worry about strong gusty winds.
I make a tactical error in not running ¨Wing and Wing¨ (Mainsail set to leeward and Jib poled out to windward). This would have given me a downwind course to our destination. Instead, I remain on a broad reach with the wind just off the port quarter and end up having to tack. The seas have gotten big enough that I don´t want to work on the foredeck with a spinnaker pole and rigging it up: Big mistake which will add another 100 miles to the trip and an extra day. This won´t happen again! Noon position shows we have DMG = 96 nm at 4.0 kts; DTG = 390 nm.
March 9-11
Because I am not running "Wing and Wing" I continue to lose ground by not running directly downwind as I should be doing. I doggedly hang onto the jib and continue on a broad reach with an occasional tack to reach our destination. On March 11 I make one long tack up to the WNW throughout the night and in the morning the wind veers a little more into the East. At last this allows me to follow the course line to San Cristobal island. The result of all this is that we arrive too late in the evening to go into port. So we spend the night stemming the current 6 nm off Baquerizo Moreno.
I drop all sails and start the motor. To my surprise I can only get 1 kt out of the engine at 3/4 speed. At first I believe there are barnacles on the propeller but I had the hull and propeller cleaned before we left Las Playitas. What to do? I bring the engine up to full speed and manage 1.7 kts. This is becoming surreal! Finally, I decide to take it through a full circle turn. The minute I come 90 degrees away from the current the speed picks up and downwind runs to 8 kts. There is one strong current running parallel to the island at 4+ kts. We continue motoring and lying ahull throughout the night.
Here it is: the day of departure for the Galapagos: 875 nm. We woke up to a beautiful clear day with light winds out of the North. We got underway at 0915 hrs and set the Main and Jib. Could have used a little more wind but "Solstice" was still sailing along at 4.0 kts. By noontime we were becalmed but the wind picked up again at 1445 and we sailed along all through the night with a N´ly wind at 10-12 kts and higher gusts averaging 6.0 kts.
March 4th, 2012
Still sailing along with light N´ly winds and 3-4´seas. Our noon position indicated that we we had made good 112 nm at 4.7 kts average speed; DTG 0 763 nm. At 1800 hrs the wind died so we dropped the sails and let the current carry us along throughout the night. Surprisingly enough there was a 1.7 kt current carrying us along the course line. During the night a school of Dolphins dropped by to say "Hi". Starry skies, no wind and the sounds of Mother Ocean: being becalmed has its rewards.
March 5, 2012
Wind came up at 0345 this morning out of the NW at 20 kts and gusty. We set the jib and sailed along at 6.0 kts. I don´t like to work the deck at night unless it is absolutely necessary. It isn´t so bad with smaller seas but requires being tethered up and holding on while setting the Mainsail. By 0600 hrs the wind had veered into the NNE at 15 kts and it was daylight so we set the Mainsail and were sailing at 6.0 kts. Our noon position indicated that from noon yesterday until noon today DMG = 78 nm, DTG = 676 nm. By 1948 hrs we were becalmed once again. The current has increased in strength and is carrying us along at 2.7 kts and setting down at 204 degrees. It is strong enough to allow the autopilot to helm the yacht with all sails droped and not a whisper of wind. I have never witnessed an autopilot helming a vessel 10.5 hrs with nothing but current. A little more sea this evening so we are rolling around a little more but it is quite bearable.
March 6, 2012
At 0700 hrs the wind came back to visit us so we got underway with Main & Jib. Noon position calculates that DMG (noon-noon) = 87 nm, DTG = 589 nm. The day brings only very light winds out of the ENE and then veers briefly into the SE quadrant at Beaufort 2-3 (7-10 kts). This doesn´t last very long and we are becalmed once again at 1800 hrs. The current is still favorable and carries us along at 1.5 kts.
March 7, 2012
At 0030 hrs a fresh wind from the ESE springs up with some huff to it at 15 kts. We set the Jib and sail along at 5.8 kts. This wind backs into the ENE and freshens to 20 kts. We carry a reefed mainsail and jib. Noon position calculates that DMG = 103 nm at 4.3 ktsñ DTG = 486 nm. This ENE wind holds throughout the day and we sail along at 5.0 kts.
March 8, 2012
With the increase in wind comes an increase of seas which are now running 8´ with a few higher swells. At 0800 hrs we double reef the Mainsail and roll in a little Jib. I´m being cautious here but I am learning that the Valiant can carry full Main and Jib in 20 kts winds and make 8 kts. I prefer to carry less sail and not worry about strong gusty winds.
I make a tactical error in not running ¨Wing and Wing¨ (Mainsail set to leeward and Jib poled out to windward). This would have given me a downwind course to our destination. Instead, I remain on a broad reach with the wind just off the port quarter and end up having to tack. The seas have gotten big enough that I don´t want to work on the foredeck with a spinnaker pole and rigging it up: Big mistake which will add another 100 miles to the trip and an extra day. This won´t happen again! Noon position shows we have DMG = 96 nm at 4.0 kts; DTG = 390 nm.
March 9-11
Because I am not running "Wing and Wing" I continue to lose ground by not running directly downwind as I should be doing. I doggedly hang onto the jib and continue on a broad reach with an occasional tack to reach our destination. On March 11 I make one long tack up to the WNW throughout the night and in the morning the wind veers a little more into the East. At last this allows me to follow the course line to San Cristobal island. The result of all this is that we arrive too late in the evening to go into port. So we spend the night stemming the current 6 nm off Baquerizo Moreno.
I drop all sails and start the motor. To my surprise I can only get 1 kt out of the engine at 3/4 speed. At first I believe there are barnacles on the propeller but I had the hull and propeller cleaned before we left Las Playitas. What to do? I bring the engine up to full speed and manage 1.7 kts. This is becoming surreal! Finally, I decide to take it through a full circle turn. The minute I come 90 degrees away from the current the speed picks up and downwind runs to 8 kts. There is one strong current running parallel to the island at 4+ kts. We continue motoring and lying ahull throughout the night.
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