From SavuSauv to Dakuniba Bay and on to Viani Bay

This the first and part of our second leg of our trip after we left SavuSavu. There are too many pictures for me to post all at once so I will do it parts. We were in Viani Bay for a week and alot happened and alot of pictures that I want to put on the blog. Jack and his family showed us the most  kindness and graciousness and generosity that a family could give. The Fijians are the friendliest and gracious with the biggest smiles you've ever seen.

This where we were anchored in Dakuniba.

Another view of our way into our anchorage.

The entrance to Dakuniba bay

Once anchored  these are some of the pictures I toke of the bay.

I thought the reflection on the water were great.

One of the villages.

We toke our dinghy into one of these entrances looking for fruit bats, but didn't see them until we came back out and saw the flying collecting fruit. We didn't see them hanging of the trees.

Another view of the village.

Taken from dinghy  while exploring.

Church on the hill coming into Viani Bay.

Coming into Viani Bay

This is Jack Fisher the most hospitable person in  Viani  Bay.

That evening Jack and Sofie brought us some food from a Lovo they had gone to. It consisted of craw fish , chicken, Casabas , Taro, and Taro leaves stuffed with fresh grated coconut and then cooked in coconut milk.

These are the taro leaves stuffed with fresh coconut and cooked in coconut milk. These are really delicious. They are one of my favorite.

The food was brought to us in woven baskets of palm leaves and covered with palm leaves.

I forgot there was also fish. All this food was cooked in an under ground pit.

This is the Viani Bay

First evening in beautiful Viani Bay

Beautiful sunset in Viani Bay.

VIANI BAY TO VUDA POINT MARINA

August 22, 2013  Thursday

We have decided that time is getting short if we want to sail to Vanuatu and New Caldonia this season.  Therefore, we scrapped our plans for sailing on to Rabi, Qamea, North and Southern Lau group.  Instead we will sail directly to Musket Cove (17-04.3'S; 177-11.5 E) on the western side of Viti Levu: 230 nm.  This will set us up for checking out and leaving from Lautoka.  Lautoka is on the mainland of Viti Levu near Nadi International airport.  We could easily spend another 2 or 3 seasons here and never see it all.

We weighed anchor in Viani Bay 16-15.0' S; 179-53.2' E) at 0945 and set sail for Musket Cove (17-04.3' S; 177-11.5' E).  The weather forecasts indicated that the winds would be from the NE 15-20 kts.  That would be a downwind sail for a good part of the voyage.  It turned out that there would be no wind for the whole trip and we ended up motoring the 200 nm out of 230 nm.  We have never had to do that before.  My first inclination was to take all sails down and wait for wind but in this part of the South Pacific it can go from slick calm to 25 kts in a very short period of time.

Second day out and the motor bracket for #1 alternator broke so I had to take it off line and, in doing so, found out that the #2 alternator wasn't working.  Plans change:  I decided to go to Vuda Point Marina (17-41.0 S; 177-23.0' E) instead of Musket Cove.  Actually, Musket Cove is about 10 nm west so there wasn't a big course change involved.

Today is Sunday in the Fiji's.  It's still Saturday in the States.  On Monday, I'll start looking around for a welding shop to fix the bracket on #1 Alternator and replace #2 Alternator with a spare one I have aboard.  My good friend, Dan, was wise in insisting that I bring qualified spare parts along while we were in Ft. Lauderdale.  This has turned out to be more than a blessing and saved lots of time and money.

Initial impression of the western part of Viti Levu is that it is completely dedicated to rich tourists and Superyachts.  We did the right thing is staying in the eastern and northern part of Fiji which is far more traditional and remote.  The plan is now to effect repairs and sail for Anatom, Vanuatu: 470 nm to the WSW.

I'll have more to say about this western side of Fiji once we get ourselves sorted out and bus around into Lautoka.

SAVUSAVU, VANUA LEVU, FIJI

July 25-August 11, 2013

I just realized that I never did post anything on Savusavu (16-46.6' S; 179-20.1' E)- so here goes.   The town is an official port of entry into Fiji  so many cruisers coming from New Zealand and Tonga make it their first port of call.  It is nestled in Nakama Creek with many safe mooring balls for cruisers convenience.  Some cruisers choose to leave their yachts here during the cyclone season on "cyclone proof" mooring balls.  There are three marinas in Savusavu:  Copra Shed, Waitui, and Savusavu Marina.  Because the town provides most things a cruising yacht needs, from fuel, water and groceries, to banking, general hardware and electrical, Savusavu is bustling with yachts coming and going.

We picked up a mooring ball from Copra Shed Marina at a cost of $4 US per day.  There are lots of restaurants along the one street town and a great farmer's market.  Additionally, supplies from the States can be shipped in rather quickly.  We ordered a new bilge pump from West Marine and had it shipped DHL Express and it arrived in 7 days.  That's fast for this part of the world.

Because the city is dedicated to yachts and tourism, it isn't that interesting outside a place to launch bus trips and hiking activities to other parts of the island.  Transportation is cheap and frequent.  You can get to just about anywhere on the island by arriving at the bus station by 0700 hrs in the morning and returning in the afternoon.  Taxis are affordable but you don't get the interaction with the locals as on an open air bus.

The town is famous for its hot springs and at low tide you can see the steam from numerous small outlets all along the foreshore.  It is not uncommon to find pots of food being cooked over the bubbling waters.  Phyllis has posted some pictures of one of the hot springs where locals cook their food.  It has been estimated that the geothermal energy could be used as a resource to generate enough power for the entire island of Vanua Levu.

All in all, I found Savusavu a good place to drop anchor and stock up on needed supplies.  We ended up staying here for 17 days which says a lot.  If one needed serious mechanical, electrical or sail  repairs, Suva would be a better port of call.  Savusavu is the best place for launching voyages to the Eastern part of Vanua Levu and the less explored Northern islands of Fiji.  Essentially, this is what we are doing.

One of the well known personalities in Savusavu is Curly Carswell.  He hosts a morning VHF radio net for cruisers at 0800 hrs everyday except Sunday.  Additionally, he holds a weekly seminar for cruisers with important information, chartlets and waypoints.  He reviews all of the most important cruising areas on the Eastern side of Fiji and provides his vast knowledge of how to do it safely.  Curly makes fishing lures that are very effective at bringing them in.  he has lived in Fiji for 38 years and was a Dive Master and delivery boat Captain.  There aren't many places in this area that he hasn't been to.

SAVUSAVU TO VIANI BAY VIA FAWN HARBOR AND DAKUNIBA

August 11, 2013 Sunday

We left Savusauv this morning at 0630 hrs for Viani Bay which is about 56 nm distant.  The wind was light out of the SE and the seas less than 3 ft.  All navigation in Fiji waters has to be done between 0900-1500 hrs so that one can eyeball the reefs:  good sunlight is a plus.  Passages that involve entering a narrow pass or threading through reefs have to be negotiated using good Waypoints, Google Earth and eyeballs.  In these waters, even the British Admiralty Charts are inaccurate in many places.  Even though they indicate that they are compatible with WGS84 (GPS) plotting, this is not true since a look at the Source Data on the chart shows that many of the surveys taken are from 1895-97 by lead line!  In the commercial shipping lanes the charts are spot on but small harbors and reef passes are so far out that they can only be used as a reference and reliable waypoints and Google Earth overlaid on them.  To this end, there are cruisers who have confirmed and published reliable Waypoints for entering these remote place.  Certainly, one of the best websites to be consulted is "Soggy Paws".  These "yachties" have an amazing ability to ferret out useful and reliable information
from many that are cruising and publishing their blogs.  They are on a circumnavigation and continually research and update their information into "compendiums".  There is the "Fiji Compendium", "Tonga Compendium", "Marshall Islands Compendium" etc.,etc. No doubt, they are at the forefront of the cruising world here in the South Pacific.

With all this in mind, we decided to break up the voyage into three separate trips:  Fawn Harbor (16-43.5' S; 179-43.8' W) is 36 miles from Savusavu so it makes for a convenient stop over in good light; Dakuniba Pass (16-45.0 S; 179-51.1' E) is 8 nm from Fawn Harbor; Viani Bay (16-45.0' S; 179-53.3' E) 11 nm from Dakuniba Pass.  We had reliable Waypoints for these places.  The CMAP electronic chart showed us running over the reef upon entering Dakuniba Pass but Google Earth way overlaid on the chart and showed a clear route through the pass.  The main electronic charting programs used are:  CMAP, Garmin, MaxSea, Navionics.  All will have their inaccuracies and have to be backed up with reliable information.  Fiji is an incredibly beautiful place but is coral studded everywhere.  Several yachts are lost on reefs every year and groundings are legendary.

Fawn Harbor has nothing special to recommend it other than a quiet and safe anchorage.  We dropped anchor at 1330 hrs on August 12th and left at 1012 hrs on August 13th.

Dakuniba Pass and anchorage is quite beautiful.  It has a few creeks and renown for its Fruit Bats.  There is one creek called "Bat River".  We had some cruising friends on "Ladybug" that recommended it and stated that there were hundreds of bats hanging from trees in the creek.  Phyllis and I rowed over and entered the creek.  We paddled up quite a ways but saw no Fruit Bats.  Upon exiting the creek we saw several flying overhead but that was it.  These Fruit Bats are quite large.

We had the good fortune to meet an English cruising couple on "Kalida" that added to our information and Waypoints for the Southern Lau Group.  We are working our way to this remote group of islands.  Once one departs from Savusavu heading East, the resources dry up and places become far more isolated.  There are only beautiful surroundings to be found in Fawn Harbor, Dakuniba Pass and Viani Bay.

Now we come to Viani Bay which is one of the crown jewels on the Southern Coast of Vanua Levu.  We left Dakuniba Bay at 1000 hrs on August 14th and picked up one of Jack Fisher's moorings in Viani Bay at 1415 hrs.  Viani Bay is stunningly beautiful and has the clearest water and most beautiful coral I've seen in Fiji.  The Fisher family owns quite a bit of land in Viani Bay and its most famous character is Jack Fisher.  Jack is legendary in the annals of the South Pacific.  He greets each and every boat and offers his services as a dive master, snorkeling or general guide.  He has been doing this for over 30 years and knows the reefs as no other.  In Viani Bay there are reefs known as "The Cabbage Patch", Rainbow Reef, The White Wall, The Purple Wall, etc.  Some of these are for experienced divers only and others snorkeling.  Jack is an experienced Captain so takes the largest cruiser's boat available, usually a catamaran, a takes everyone out to the reefs.  No one is disappointed in their dive or snorkeling experience.  Additionally, Jack brings fresh fruit, vegetables, coconuts and his wonderful personality to the boats every morning.  He is one of the most interesting characters I have met: amazing stories without end; a smile that is a joy to behold; honest, trustworthy and reliable; humble and in love with humanity.  Backed up by a family that shares all they have with the visiting yachts:  Viani Bay is Fisher Paradise.

I went out snorkeling with Jack to "The Cabbage Patch".  The coral looks like giant cabbages and then an explosion of soft coral colors come into view with thousands of small reef fish in rainbow hues.  Finally, after all the time in Fiji, I see the wondrous reefs that everyone raves about.  We have some cruising friends, Sam and Marilyn on "Catharpin Blue", that have just arrived.  We'll go out with Jack tomorrow and visit "The Cabbage Patch" again.  There is a lot of current on the reefs in this area so an experienced guide is important.  Jack stays in the dinghy or on the boat and keeps track of everyone drifting with the current.

Today is Sunday: it is a day of church, relaxation, and christian fellowship amongst Fijians.  There is no business or work done on Sundays.  The Fijian people are deeply spiritual and religious:  It is an important part of their lives.  The Methodists and Seventh Day Adventists seem to predominate on this part of the coast.  Phyllis, Sam and Marilyn went to the All Nations Church this morning with Jack's family.  Jack has given me an explanation of how it came into being but I would have to research it more to fully understand what's behind it.  Chuch and related activities continue all day long on Sunday with food being provided by the parishioners.  I didn't go so I'm here writing this blog and having a glass of rum.  I like to enjoy these activities vicariously.

From Viani Bay we will voyage North to Rabi (16-31.7' S; 179-59.5' W), make a note of the East to West Longitude on the International Date Line.  Rabi has been settled by Bannaban people from Ocean Island called Barnaba.  Their island was mined for guano by unscrupulous British, Australian and New Zealand corporations, under a  colonial administration dedicated to exploitation, until the island was a lunar ladnscape and not fit to live on.  Today, there are 300 inhabitants living on the island under a Kiribati administration.  If you're bored or interested in history:  Google it.  We've been given some books from Curly Carswell in Savusavu to deliver to the library in Nuku which is the capital of Rabi.  It is amazing that the Fijian Government could allow another nation to purchase land and continue their nationality and customs.  The same thing has happened with Kioa (16-40.1' S; 179-54.1 E), which has been bought and settled by inhabitants from Tuvalu:  This island is slowly sinking back into the Pacific.  To my way of thinking, this demonstrates generosity of spirit, with nationalism set aside, to human suffering and necessity.

A few more pictures of SavuSavu

I wanted to post these last pictures I took of the bay and the sunrise the day before we were leaving SavuSavu. We are leaving for Faun Harbor in the early morning  which is about 35 mile from SavuSavu.

On our mooring at  the Copra Shed Marina.

A different view of our mooring.



The sunrise seen from our yacht.



Sunrise and the yacht Bright Angel.



Looking at SavuSavu from our yacht.



More of the anchorage and SavuSavu.

This my favorite of all these pictures..



More of the sunrise.

More of SavuSavu.

Bus Ride to Buca Bay and More of SavuSavu

The pictures are of a bus ride that Don and I took to Buca Bay, little bumpy, dusty but interesting. Also scenes from around SavuSavu. I have tried to post my videos but haven't been successful yet. There a couple of goof ups in the videos but I'm hoping the will work, if not I apologize.

This a  the public bathroom on Buca Bay.

It's amazing how Mangroves can grow in the salt water.

I was trying to capture the house  behind the clothesline with the funny chimney. That funny looking chimney is where the cook, it looks like a fireplace chimney.

Seventh Day Adventist church in the village of Vatuvonu.

School children at recess.

Fijian kids playing with their parent bamboo raft and are very happy kids and beautiful smiles.

Moms are back with food cooking on a board or palm leaf.

As the last mom gets on the raft starts to sink down a bit which made the kids a little nervous. No worries as the middle mom keeps the  fire burning and cooking and the kids hang on.

As you can see it has sunk a  little more as they  paddle across the bay home.

This man invited Marilyn,Sam,Don and I to his home to meet his wife and grand daughter and cook the great Fijian and Indian food for us, Wonderful and gracious people. Look at that beautiful smile on that child's face.

Some of the hot spring in SavuSavu.

People can come ,bring their food and cook on these hot springs.

The other side of the food stand. this got out of place, should have been with top pictures. Oh well.

Sunset at the Copra Shed Marine where we are moored.

Another view of the sun setting.

The right side of the food stand that should gone up with top pictures. Another goof up.

"SEVUSEVU" AND A "LOVO" AT NAIDI VILLAGE

August 2, 2013  Friday  Naidi Village

Naidi village is about 5 miles outside of Savusavu going East along the southern coast.  We have some sailing friends on "Catharpin Blue" that made arrangements with one of the locals for a "lovo" at his home in this village.  A "lovo" consists of heating up rocks in a pit and then covering them with coconut fronds and taro leaves.  Meat and   vegetables are wrapped in taro leaves and put into the pit which is then covered with more taro leaves.  In about an hour's time all is cooked and ready to eat.  While all this is cooking, Fijian women are preparing coconut milk from ripe coconuts which they scrape down and shred with a special tool mounted on a wooden board: simple and effective.  Most fish and vegetables are sauteed in coconut milk here in Fiji.  It's a wonderful way to savor food.

In order for all this to happen in the village, it is expected and traditional to offer a "sevusevu" to the village Chief as a sign of respect and to request permission to use the village's resources.  The "sevusevu" is presented to a dedicated village spokesman "turaga ni koro" who then approaches the chief with your bundle of "yangona" kava and goes through the ceremony of telling him who you are and where you come from.  The bundle of "yangona" is laid before the Chief, and if he picks it up, he will deliver a speech of acceptance for you to enjoy the hospitality and protection of the village including its resources and anchoring.  In essence, one becomes part of the extended family of the village.  Should he refuse, one has to depart the village in a safe and timely fashion.  This almost never happens but can if "yachties" offer alcohol to the villagers and abuse their young women.  Fijians, like our native American Indians, do not tolerate  alcohol well - shit, who does?  So it is never offered.  "Yangona" works fine and produces no ill effects or drunkenness.  You can drink it all night long and, at most, it has a calming effect.

So the Chief accepts the bundle of "yangona" and it is prepared by pounding it into a powder and mixed in a silken bag with water in a special wooden bowl called a "tanoa".  The "tanoa" is hand carved out of a special hard wood called "vesi".  These "tanoas" can be quite large- holding a gallon or more at a time.  If the Chief has decided to drink socially with you, there is a dedicated person who mixes the "yangona" and the "tanoa" never goes empty.  It is passed around in a single cup called a "bilo".  This is a polished half of a coconut shell.  Everyone drinks out of the same "bilo" - communal bonding.  If one needs an excuse to leave, it has to be done before the "tanoa" is empty or it will be filled again and again.  The same thing happens with a bottle of alcohol aboard the boat if it is offered to Fijians:  they don't leave until everything is consumed and they are comatose.  Not too much different from our own parties!

So we drank "yangona" for an hour or so and then the food was served: roast pig, chicken, fish, taro, fiddleheads, etc.  Yes, they eat "fiddleheads" here in Fiji.  They are everywhere.  Not quite the same as the American variety but very similar.  After eating, it's back to the kava bowl for drinking and music: guitar, ukulele, and voice.  Fijian music is harmonic and melodious in the Hawaiian fashion.  These people are a joy to be with.  We continued sitting around and drinking "yangona" for a few more hours.  The question asked by the server of the "yangona" is: High Tide or Low Tide  for the quantity.  I went full bore for the High Tide but I must say that, other than a slight temporary numbing of lips and tongue, I felt nothing more that a mild calming effect.  I figure I drank at least 15 cups of the mixture and could have continued on without any harmful effects.  I believe that kava in its powered form is legal in the States and is made by some herbal companies - not too sure of this.

This was an informal "sevusevu" so all formalities were not observed.  We were invited to take photos after the presentation and acceptance of the "yangona".  Phyllis has posted them.  It was a wonderful evening with a friendliness from the villagers that isn't found in so many places in today's world.