September 27, 2013
Regrettably, the time has come for us to sail on to New Caledonia. The official cyclone season begins in November and we still have 1200 miles to sail to Brisbane, Australia. We would have liked to continue on up the chain of islands in Vanuatu from Port Vila but it would have meant a long slog to windward coming back. I didn't feel we had the time left to do it. Additionally, as one leaves the island of Efate and heads north, the risk of malaria increases so a decision had to be mad to take some kind of prophylaxis or monitor the possibility of contact with a blood test. We had prepared for this in New Zealand by buying Doxycycline which is taken a week before entering an infected area and a week after leaving it. We didn't worry about it in the southern islands since there has been an effective eradication program and it's still the dry season. We used mosquito netting and precautions from dusk to dawn when the female anopheles mosquito is active. Malaria medicines are hard on the body and no one who lives permanently in an infected area can use them for an indefinite period of time.
The northern islands of Epi, Ambae, Malakula, Espiritu Santo, Pentacost would have been the most traditional and interesting. It was on Espiritu Santo that the Americans had a large air force base during WW II. It was here that, after the conquest of Japan, they disposed of all their equipment by pushing it over into the sea. The site is called "Million Dollar Point", and is a favorite for divers. In addition to all the military equipment, there are tens of thousands of old glass coke bottles. Another favorite spot is the wreck of the passenger ship "President Coolidge" that was used as a troop ship and sunk by one of our own mines.
Pentacoste has the famous land diving towers. It takes place when the yams are ripe for the picking in
April/May. Pentecost men take this jump using vines tied to the foot - the original bungee jumping. It is a place where the famous "sand-drawings" are made and have been declared a UNESCO world heritage. Ambae is a volcanic island that James Mitchner called "the most beautiful island in the world". He called it Bali Hai in his novel "South Pacific". Malakula has the traditional tribes wearing "nambas" which are penis sheaves made from various types of leaves and bark. The list goes on but one can't see it all. I was fortunate to see one of the locals from Pentacost perform the sand-drawing ritual at the national museum in Port Vila. Using one finger that never leaves the sand and telling a story, the drawings are unbelievably beautiful. Many times they represent a turtle, a canoe or a human face. The one I saw was the depiction of a "Blackbirding Ship" that had taken many of the young men away to the guano mines of Chile or the sugar cane fields of Queensland, Australia. This was a common practice in the 1800's and equated with slavery.
These islands were first seen by 1606 by the Portuguese navigator, Pedro Fenandes de Quiros. Later, James Cook rediscovered them and gave them the name of New Hebrides. They carried this name until independence in 1980. Between the rivalry of the English and the French they thoroughly buggered the country up to the detriment of the locals. Vanuatu was ruled jointly by the English and the French with two separate sets of laws, police force, and administrative procedures. Additionally, there were local tribal laws and customs. The joint government was called the "Condominium Govenment of the New Hebrides" and came into being in 1906. One of the biggest problems encountered in the country was language: there are 110 different dialects being spoken: The highest linguistic density in the world. Therefore, a common trading language called "Bislama" (pidgin English) is used as the common means of communication. In 1980, when The New Hebrides gained independence, Bislama was declared the lingua franca of the country in addition to English and French. These are the three official languages of the country but English and French are not commonly used in the remote areas of the interior. Bislama is a spoken and written language but is not taught in school. It will, eventually, disappear and be replaced by English. Here are a few examples of written Bislama:
Do you talk Bislama? ( Yu save toktok bislama?)
Thank you very much. (tank yu tumas)
My name is Don. (nem blong mi Don)
I want (mi wantem)
I have broken my leg. (mi brekem leg blong mi.)
Goodbye (Lukim yu)
When we witness how forgiving the Ni-Vanuatu have been towards those that so unmercifully exploited and abused them, it gives pause to the imagination and understanding of human relationships.
Thursday, October 3, 2013
Monday, September 30, 2013
Vuda Point Fiji to Aneityum the new name for Anatom Vanuatu.
We left Vuda Point Fiji on our way to Vanuatu. Our first stop was Anatom Island, We anchored in Anelcauhat bay for a few days where we visited the village and also went to Mystery Island which only opens when a Cruise ship comes, which one came on Monday Which we went to visit and see all the all the tourist from the Cruise ship buying the local wares from the villagers of Anelcauhat . The people from the cruise ship are not allowed to go to the village of Anelcauhat. That is why Mystery Island is set up for the Cruise Ship only. More pictures will follow.
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| Vuda Point Marina Fiji. |
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| The Marina is in the shape of a horse shoe. |
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| All yachts squeezed into their berth. |
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| More yachts |
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| Coming into the marina. |
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| Our good friends Ed and Fran. |
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| Sunrising as we are closing in on Vanuatu. |
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| Our first photo of the village of Anelcauhat . An outrigger used by the villagers for fishing. |
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| Episcopalian school. |
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| Headmaster of school. |
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| Flower garden planted by students. |
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| Vegetable garden planted by students. |
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| Meeting room |
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| Episcopalian church |
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| Very simple but nice. |
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| Villagers net fishing. |
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| Local grocery store. |
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| Where they come to wash their cloths. |
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| Cruise ship anchored in the bay. It arrived on Monday. |
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| Children from the village of Anelcauhat where we dropped the anchor. |
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| Coming into our first of call ,the island of Anatom. This picture should have been at the very top. |
Tuesday, September 24, 2013
TANNA TO PORT VILA, VANUATU
September 19- 20, 2013
We set sail from Port Resolution on the island of Tanna at 0730 hrs. for Port Vila: distance 137 nm. Once again, the Trade Winds were favorable and blowing 20 kts. We made our best downwind sail ever with speeds of 7.8 to 8.0 kts: that's flying for us. All this was under a reefed main and jib.
Port Vila is a small cosmopolitan town, a melting pot of Melanesian, European and Asian cultures. There are about 66,000 people living here. It is where all the luxury hotels, businesses and tourist activities can be found. All the imported items from Paris, USA and other countries are found here and can be bought "Tax Free". It is an artificial enclave within a country that has very little development. Outside of Port Vila, on the other islands, they are still using dugout canoes and in the interior of some of the islands, the men still wear "nambas" which are leaf penis wrappings. The hierarchy in these villages are: Men, Pigs, Women. It is very much a male dominated culture but you wouldn't know that by being in Port Vila. In fact you wouldn't know very much about Vanuatu by visiting Port Vila which is on Efate Island.
We haven't seen much of Vanuatu: Aneityum and Tanna. The original plan was to sail on up the islands to Epi, Malakula, Espiritu Santo, Pentacost, Ambrym and back to Port Vila for check out to New Caledonia. Unfortunately, our sailing window is getting short before the cyclone season sets in again from the beginning of November to May. We still have over one thousand miles to sail to make Brisbane, Australia. Therefore, we have decided to sail directly from Port Vila to Noumea, New Caledonia. This will give us time to see another country and wait for a weather window for sailing to Brisbane which we plan to do at the end of October or early November. We have to wait on a favorable Trade Wind to make New Caledonia which is only 328 nm from here. Will have more to say about this.
ANEITYUM TO TANNA, VANUATU
September 17, 2013 Tuesday
We weighed anchor at 0530 hrs in the morning to sail to Port Resolution (19-31.5' S; 169-29.8' E) on the island of Tanna. Port Resolution was named by Captain Cook on his voyage around the world in 1774. It is a "rolly" anchorage when the SE Trades are blowing but the holding is good. The main attraction of Tanna is the volcano on Mt Yasur and a strange cult in a few villages called the "John Frum Cargo Cult". The volcano is the most spectacular and exciting thing we have seen in the South Pacific. It is accessed by truck on some of the most horrendous roads we have experienced. Interestingly enough, the truck takes you almost to the top of the volcano. It is a 600 ft walk to the rim of the crater. There is no volcano crater in the world that is this accessible. Upon approaching the rim there are violent explosions throwing up unbelievable amounts of magma several hundred feet into the air. In no other country would they permit people to approach this close to an active volcano. Several people have been killed in the past from molten lava being thrown up. As evening approaches on the rim of the volcano, the boiling bubbling core of the volcano becomes even more impressive: the explosions are incredible and the sound deafening. One is thrown aback by it and feels the heat as the magma is thrown into the air and lands as red hot stones on the crater wall. All this is happening within 200 ft of the people standing on the rim. We have never experienced such a scary exciting display of Nature's Power. We stayed on the rim for a few hours as darkness displayed the molten core. The explosions came in about three minute intervals.
The "John Frum Cargo Cult " village is essentially a love affair with America. It started during WW II when the natives witnessed the Americans building air force bases for retaking the Soloman Islands from the Japanese. For the first time in their lives, they saw Black and White people working together on equal status - at least that is the way they perceived it. The locals were treated with respect and paid for their labor. When the Americans leave the island, a strange figure emerges named John Frum. He tells the people that one day the Americans will return and bring them untold riches. The John Frum believers continue on what they saw the Americans doing at their base: marching to the Marine Core music and carrying American flags, etc. Google this and have fun reading about the villages that continue with this cult worship. "John Frum" really means "John From America"!
Port Resolution was too rolly so we departed for Port Vila on September 19th at 0730 hrs.
We weighed anchor at 0530 hrs in the morning to sail to Port Resolution (19-31.5' S; 169-29.8' E) on the island of Tanna. Port Resolution was named by Captain Cook on his voyage around the world in 1774. It is a "rolly" anchorage when the SE Trades are blowing but the holding is good. The main attraction of Tanna is the volcano on Mt Yasur and a strange cult in a few villages called the "John Frum Cargo Cult". The volcano is the most spectacular and exciting thing we have seen in the South Pacific. It is accessed by truck on some of the most horrendous roads we have experienced. Interestingly enough, the truck takes you almost to the top of the volcano. It is a 600 ft walk to the rim of the crater. There is no volcano crater in the world that is this accessible. Upon approaching the rim there are violent explosions throwing up unbelievable amounts of magma several hundred feet into the air. In no other country would they permit people to approach this close to an active volcano. Several people have been killed in the past from molten lava being thrown up. As evening approaches on the rim of the volcano, the boiling bubbling core of the volcano becomes even more impressive: the explosions are incredible and the sound deafening. One is thrown aback by it and feels the heat as the magma is thrown into the air and lands as red hot stones on the crater wall. All this is happening within 200 ft of the people standing on the rim. We have never experienced such a scary exciting display of Nature's Power. We stayed on the rim for a few hours as darkness displayed the molten core. The explosions came in about three minute intervals.
The "John Frum Cargo Cult " village is essentially a love affair with America. It started during WW II when the natives witnessed the Americans building air force bases for retaking the Soloman Islands from the Japanese. For the first time in their lives, they saw Black and White people working together on equal status - at least that is the way they perceived it. The locals were treated with respect and paid for their labor. When the Americans leave the island, a strange figure emerges named John Frum. He tells the people that one day the Americans will return and bring them untold riches. The John Frum believers continue on what they saw the Americans doing at their base: marching to the Marine Core music and carrying American flags, etc. Google this and have fun reading about the villages that continue with this cult worship. "John Frum" really means "John From America"!
Port Resolution was too rolly so we departed for Port Vila on September 19th at 0730 hrs.
VUDA POINT, FIJI TO ANEITYUM, VANUATU
Sewptember 9-13, 2013
We departed Vuda Point Marina at 1200 hrs enroute to Anelghowat (20-14.8' S; 169-43.6 E), Aneityum, Vanuatu: distance 476 nm. The old name for Vanuatu was New Hebrides. It was changed to the original name after independence in 1980. The Trade Winds were blowing from the SE at 15-20 kts. Our course was 237 deg. so this gave us a good angle for sailing and we were averaging around 7.0 kts under a reefed mainsail and jib. The first two days out were pleasant but we had a fairly big swell from the SE. On the third day the winds started to go light and we dropped off to about 4.5 kts. About 40 nm from Aneityum the wind died out completely so we ended up motoring the final 40 nm and arrived off Anelghowat at 0500 hrs in the morning of September 13th. We laid ahull until first light and then motored into the quarantine anchorage and dropped anchor at 0730 hrs on Friday September 13th.
In general, sailors are suspicious of Fridays the 13ths. If we have a choice, we don't set out on a voyage on that date unless it is absolutely necessary. This was an ending voyage but the 13th jinxed the checking in process. I put up the yellow quarantine flag after dropping anchor and waited on Customs, Immigration and Health. I called many times on the VHF Channel 16 radio but received no reply. By the afternoon, it was obvious that they weren't coming to the boat so we launched the dinghy and went searching them out. When I got to the police station, it was closed. What to do? so I talked to some people living nearby and they told me that he police officer had gone East to another village and wouldn't return until the evening. Returned to the boat and waited until the following day which was Saturday. Once again, I went into the village and inquired about the Customs officer and was told that he was on the beach. OK, I found him sitting in the sand and watching some others fishing. After identifying him and giving our boat name, I was informed that they don't check-in vessels on the weekend. If not, could we walk around the town? He said " yes" no problem. We made an appointment to come in at 0800 hrs on Monday for the clearance.
Monday at 0700 hrs we were in front of the police station waiting on the officer. There were two other cruisers that had made appointments. A cruise ship was due to arrive that day and our man didn't show at the appointed time but took off in a boat for "Mystery Island" where all the Australian passengers go from the cruise ship. Later in the day, we tracked him down on "Mystery Island" and got the clearance paper to sail for the island of Tanna. Anelghowat is just a small village with one grocery store and a schoolhouse but not much else: we sailed out on at 0530 hrs for the island of Tanna (19-31.5' S; 169-29.8' E)
We departed Vuda Point Marina at 1200 hrs enroute to Anelghowat (20-14.8' S; 169-43.6 E), Aneityum, Vanuatu: distance 476 nm. The old name for Vanuatu was New Hebrides. It was changed to the original name after independence in 1980. The Trade Winds were blowing from the SE at 15-20 kts. Our course was 237 deg. so this gave us a good angle for sailing and we were averaging around 7.0 kts under a reefed mainsail and jib. The first two days out were pleasant but we had a fairly big swell from the SE. On the third day the winds started to go light and we dropped off to about 4.5 kts. About 40 nm from Aneityum the wind died out completely so we ended up motoring the final 40 nm and arrived off Anelghowat at 0500 hrs in the morning of September 13th. We laid ahull until first light and then motored into the quarantine anchorage and dropped anchor at 0730 hrs on Friday September 13th.
In general, sailors are suspicious of Fridays the 13ths. If we have a choice, we don't set out on a voyage on that date unless it is absolutely necessary. This was an ending voyage but the 13th jinxed the checking in process. I put up the yellow quarantine flag after dropping anchor and waited on Customs, Immigration and Health. I called many times on the VHF Channel 16 radio but received no reply. By the afternoon, it was obvious that they weren't coming to the boat so we launched the dinghy and went searching them out. When I got to the police station, it was closed. What to do? so I talked to some people living nearby and they told me that he police officer had gone East to another village and wouldn't return until the evening. Returned to the boat and waited until the following day which was Saturday. Once again, I went into the village and inquired about the Customs officer and was told that he was on the beach. OK, I found him sitting in the sand and watching some others fishing. After identifying him and giving our boat name, I was informed that they don't check-in vessels on the weekend. If not, could we walk around the town? He said " yes" no problem. We made an appointment to come in at 0800 hrs on Monday for the clearance.
Monday at 0700 hrs we were in front of the police station waiting on the officer. There were two other cruisers that had made appointments. A cruise ship was due to arrive that day and our man didn't show at the appointed time but took off in a boat for "Mystery Island" where all the Australian passengers go from the cruise ship. Later in the day, we tracked him down on "Mystery Island" and got the clearance paper to sail for the island of Tanna. Anelghowat is just a small village with one grocery store and a schoolhouse but not much else: we sailed out on at 0530 hrs for the island of Tanna (19-31.5' S; 169-29.8' E)
Saturday, August 31, 2013
Vuda Point Marina
August 24 to September 3, 2013
The trip from Viani Bay to Vuda Point Marina was 230 nm. There was no wind so we had to motor almost the whole way. Under most conditions, I drop sail and wait for wind, however, here in Fiji it can go from calm to 25 kts in a very short time. During the motoring episode, the alternator bracket broke for the second time so we cancelled Musket Cove and moved into Vuda Point Marina. Good choice for repairs: It was taken off and repaired in one day. The job was excellent and the cost very reasonable: $160 US.
The western or leeward side of Fiji is dry, hot, and humid. It has been developed for tourism over the last 60 or 70 years and doesn't represent the traditional customs of Eastern Fiji. It is the land of Super Yachts, Resorts and Brook Shields' "Blue Lagoon". Lautoka is the Sugar Capital of Fiji. Lots of sugar cane and an East Indian population that came under indentured servant contracts. There is a gigantic sugar refinery that chugs out black smoke and ash that is detested by yachts because it stains everything. For that reason, very few yachts spend anytime in Lautoka. It's a great place to shop and provision but usually done by bus or taxi from a distance. Today, this region of Fiji is a source of conflict between the native Fijian population and the East Indians. At one point the East Indians outnumbered the indigenous population. There have been several coups after elections that placed an Indian prime-minister in power. At present, there is a military dictatorship running the country. It seems to be liberal enough and the country is prospering. Elections are being scheduled for next October. The East Indians are only found in population centers where there is work. Outside, in the traditional villages, one rarely finds them. Being a foreigner, I have no knowledge just what the Fijians think about it or how the East Indians are faring. No doubt, there are many beautiful places on this side of the island but we will move on to Vanuatu without having seen them. There is no way to see all the beautiful places in Fiji in a single sailing season. We have seen enough to say that it is our favorite place to date. The Fijians are a most wonderful and friendly people.
On Tuesday September 3rd, we will sail for Anatom, Vanuatu (20-14.2' S; 169-46.6' E): 480 nm. It should be a nice sail as the winds will be from the SE and our course of 252T puts us on a broad reach. For those that are less savvy about points of sail: wind is just aft of the beam which is a nice point of sailing.
Vanuatu is far less developed on most of the islands so we won't have internet service until we reach Port Vila. At that time I will update the voyage and impressions of Anatom, Tanna and Erromango. The most interesting island will be Tanna. There is an active volcano and a strange cult called "The John Fromm Cargo Cult". Essentially, this is a cult dedicated to a love affair for America. During WWII, the Americans built several airbases in the area and the local population observed that black and white Americans worked together equally. They were treated with respect and paid for their labor. The British and French had always treated them like slaves and second class citizens. "Black birding" which is a form of kidnapping and indentured labor was common in the South Pacific Islands. Young men were shanghaied and sent to work on sugar plantations in Australia and New Zealand: Most never returned. The blatant criminality, exploitation and inhumanity of white entrepreneurs in this area was a standard of the time that that valued dark skinned people as second class citizens or slaves to be used up for financial gain. The "White Only" immigration policy of Australia was in effect until the middle half of the last century.
I close with a pertinent quote from "Sopranino" that was written by Patrick Ellam and Colin Mudie in 1954. At that time they were the smallest yacht - just under 20' - to have crossed the Atlantic:
"It is a funny life. One day an island will rise out of the sea ahead of you, like the fairy castle in a child's story-book. Within two days you are a part of that place. You have your own pet restaurant and bars; people hail you as your walk down the street, and as time goes on you get to know all about the private life of the girl behind the counter in the sweetshop.
Then suddenly, one day, you sail away. And all that life and all those people sink into the sea behind you, as if they had never been. Then for a while you will be alone on the sea, seemingly motionless, until the next place comes up and you start all over again."
The trip from Viani Bay to Vuda Point Marina was 230 nm. There was no wind so we had to motor almost the whole way. Under most conditions, I drop sail and wait for wind, however, here in Fiji it can go from calm to 25 kts in a very short time. During the motoring episode, the alternator bracket broke for the second time so we cancelled Musket Cove and moved into Vuda Point Marina. Good choice for repairs: It was taken off and repaired in one day. The job was excellent and the cost very reasonable: $160 US.
The western or leeward side of Fiji is dry, hot, and humid. It has been developed for tourism over the last 60 or 70 years and doesn't represent the traditional customs of Eastern Fiji. It is the land of Super Yachts, Resorts and Brook Shields' "Blue Lagoon". Lautoka is the Sugar Capital of Fiji. Lots of sugar cane and an East Indian population that came under indentured servant contracts. There is a gigantic sugar refinery that chugs out black smoke and ash that is detested by yachts because it stains everything. For that reason, very few yachts spend anytime in Lautoka. It's a great place to shop and provision but usually done by bus or taxi from a distance. Today, this region of Fiji is a source of conflict between the native Fijian population and the East Indians. At one point the East Indians outnumbered the indigenous population. There have been several coups after elections that placed an Indian prime-minister in power. At present, there is a military dictatorship running the country. It seems to be liberal enough and the country is prospering. Elections are being scheduled for next October. The East Indians are only found in population centers where there is work. Outside, in the traditional villages, one rarely finds them. Being a foreigner, I have no knowledge just what the Fijians think about it or how the East Indians are faring. No doubt, there are many beautiful places on this side of the island but we will move on to Vanuatu without having seen them. There is no way to see all the beautiful places in Fiji in a single sailing season. We have seen enough to say that it is our favorite place to date. The Fijians are a most wonderful and friendly people.
On Tuesday September 3rd, we will sail for Anatom, Vanuatu (20-14.2' S; 169-46.6' E): 480 nm. It should be a nice sail as the winds will be from the SE and our course of 252T puts us on a broad reach. For those that are less savvy about points of sail: wind is just aft of the beam which is a nice point of sailing.
Vanuatu is far less developed on most of the islands so we won't have internet service until we reach Port Vila. At that time I will update the voyage and impressions of Anatom, Tanna and Erromango. The most interesting island will be Tanna. There is an active volcano and a strange cult called "The John Fromm Cargo Cult". Essentially, this is a cult dedicated to a love affair for America. During WWII, the Americans built several airbases in the area and the local population observed that black and white Americans worked together equally. They were treated with respect and paid for their labor. The British and French had always treated them like slaves and second class citizens. "Black birding" which is a form of kidnapping and indentured labor was common in the South Pacific Islands. Young men were shanghaied and sent to work on sugar plantations in Australia and New Zealand: Most never returned. The blatant criminality, exploitation and inhumanity of white entrepreneurs in this area was a standard of the time that that valued dark skinned people as second class citizens or slaves to be used up for financial gain. The "White Only" immigration policy of Australia was in effect until the middle half of the last century.
I close with a pertinent quote from "Sopranino" that was written by Patrick Ellam and Colin Mudie in 1954. At that time they were the smallest yacht - just under 20' - to have crossed the Atlantic:
"It is a funny life. One day an island will rise out of the sea ahead of you, like the fairy castle in a child's story-book. Within two days you are a part of that place. You have your own pet restaurant and bars; people hail you as your walk down the street, and as time goes on you get to know all about the private life of the girl behind the counter in the sweetshop.
Then suddenly, one day, you sail away. And all that life and all those people sink into the sea behind you, as if they had never been. Then for a while you will be alone on the sea, seemingly motionless, until the next place comes up and you start all over again."
Leaving Viani Bay to Vuda Marina.
We were on our way to Musket Cove but to make a detour to Vuda Marina with alternator problems. While the way we got a visitor that landed on the yacht and was with us for about a half hr. He needed a rest. Our visitor was a Cormoran as you shall see.
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| Leaving beautiful Viani Bay and friends. |
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| Beautiful sunset. |
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| The moon was rising behind the clouds. |
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| Our visitor, the cormorant. |
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| He looks very regal there. |
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| I was quite close to him here. |
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| Sailing along with us. |
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| I took a lot of pictures and he didn't seem to mind then he flew away after he was rested. |
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| Beautiful sky after the sun had set. |
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