NEIAFU, VAVA'U, TONGA

September 24, 2012

There have been no recent posts because we haven't gone anywhere since arriving in Neiafu.  In the beginning we were waiting on a shipment of our "meds" from the States and then we started on various projects.  The Volvo Penta engine needed some attention: an injector pump, heat exchanger repair and leak on turbo charger seal.  This has now been addressed and we are getting ready to sail out to all the beautiful outlying islands in the area

Right now, Neiafu is in the throes of sponsoring their 4th Annual Vava'u Regatta.  There are all kinds of activities going on and it's fun to participate or be onlookers.  This town is made up of mostly expat Aussies, Kiwis and a smattering of other nationalities along with the ubiquitous American and German.  The town is a step back in time to the days when Phyllis and I were travelling backpackers.  There is very little of Tonga's archaeological past to be seen.  The missionaries did such a thorough job of cleansing that nothing really remains of the remote past.  Most of the music is 70's, 80's and pop.  The Tongan language and dress are very much alive and used.

If I could make an observation, on very limited exposure, I would say that there is far more artistic creativity and energy in French Polynesia.  Also, the fabulous ruins and temples of the past were very much evident.  In no way do I mean to denigrate the Tongans a lesser status than that of other Polynesian societies:  they are charming, helpful and friendly.

We have spent so much time here because we can't sail for New Zealand until the end of October. The southern part of Tonga and Nukualofa is not as beautiful as the middle and northern parts.  So we'll hang out here and then sail to Ha'api in the middle group around October 10th.

As we move around the outlying islands, I'll come up with some observations to post.

We were invited to share in a Tongan feast with the village of Utulei , The pictures are backwards , sorry.

Boy scaling the coconut tree for coconut.

Ladies and children from the village singing to us.

Children showing us their dance.

This is a tapa blanket, one of a typical craft.

Showing us the weaving  for the thatched roofs.

More beautiful crafts.

The drinking of kava which is a local drink made from a root.

Straining the kava after it has been pounded to a pulp and diluted.

Pounding the kava root

The beginning of the kava ceremony.

Boat ride to the village for the Tongan feast.

Friends that came with us  to the feast Corriane and Wolfgang

Pictures of Nui

Solstice anchored in  Alofi, Nui.

Back in the saddle again.

This place is called Matapa Chasm where the Nui;s traditional kings use to come to bath.

Talva Arches

The coral forest you have to trek  through to get to the Arches.

Looking through a hole in the cave, you can see a fisherman fishing on the reef.

Just beautiful pools water.

Some of the trek down to the Arches.

Stalactites and Stalagmites.

Just beautiful water in these pools.

An opening inside the cave.

Mass of jagged coral pinnacles where a passage leads off to the edge of a chasm . At  the foot of the chasm there is a beach of fine golden  sand and palm trees.

This is  the chasm with the coconut trees that rise up to almost the top of the chasm.

The ladder that takes you down to the beach with the coconut trees.

It was amazing site.

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More of the trek to get to the chasm, should  of had this picture before. 

Breaking water over the reef.

Just a beautiful place to watch the waves coming in.

Bob Marley flag that someone stuck in front of a memorial commemorating the men that lost their live in the first world war., Who knows!!

The bay of Alofi, Nui whee we were moored

What used to be.

Trek to the coral forest, amazing to see things growing there.

Beautiful plants that grow amongst the coral.

We were amazed at the color of the water.

I needed to put a few more pictures of Palmerston.

William Marsters' home

The Palmerston yacht club

Someone had made the yacht club a beautiful sign, .

Bill Marsters and his Blue Footed Boobie.

Look at the size of those beams, they came from a shipwreck and that is what William Marsters built that home.

William's home, water cistern and church.

Communication center with their satellite dish and solar panels.

Volleyball game as a form of entertainment.

Big satellite dish.

NIUE TO TONGA

August 26 , 20012

We sailed out of Alofi, Niue on Saturday August 26 around 1200 hrs.  The Trade Wind was fresh out of the SE at 20 to 25 kts.  Well offshore the seas were running 10-12'.  Since they were on our port quarter, occasionally, we would surf down one.  The Valiant continues to amaze me with her seakindliness and seaworthiness.  She is a very dry boat and hardly ever ships water in the cockpit.

The distance from Niue to Neiafu, Vava'u in the Northern Tonga group is about 245 nm.  We made this passage in 22 hrs which is great time considering I was only sailing under reefed headsail.  We could have carried more canvas and made even better time but we were in no hurry to make landfall.  Also, we crossed the international date line which put us one day ahead of the States.  We made our arrival in Neiafu on Tuesday 28 August 2012.

The approach to the Vava'u group in Northern Tonga is spectacular.  The land in the North rises to 500' and is lush green.  Entering the harbor through the many islands is exciting and beautiful.  Neiafu is a small community of expats and Tongans that cater to the yachting community.  Additionally, there is a flight that comes in once a week from Nukualofa which is the capital of Tonga and located in the South on the island of Tongatapu.  The biggest tourist attraction here is  swimming with the whales.  One can take their own yachts out or use a dedicated whale diving operator.  They locate the whales and then let you swim right next to them.  Apparently, the whales don't seem to mind and no one has been killed yet.  We are enjoying our stay in Neiafu and will be here for another week or so.  We have to wait until the end of October before making the trip to New Zealand which about 1000 nm from Nukualofa, Tonga.  There will be some heavy weather sailing involved in this trip as lows and highs are continually coming from the Australian coast.

Over a month ago we had a shipment of medications sent from the States to Tonga via USPS Express mail insured.  For some reason that will always remain a mystery, it was returned from Tonga to our States-side address.  We have had it reshipped via FedEx which provides a tracking number.  Incredibly enough, the most advanced country in the world?? does not have the technology to track a package once it leaves the last US port using USPS.  At least it was returned.  These shipments of medications have been problematical with the exception of Papeete, Fr. Polynesia.

I'll update the blog as we see more of Vava'u and Neiafu.  There are wonderful fresh vegetables and fruit here in Neiafu at reasonable prices.  Fish and meat are plentiful.  The restaurants are serving up gourmet food.  Best of all the Tongan people are fascinating.    Once again we can enjoy Expresso and Cappuccino coffee; not cheap but delicious.  We are taking time to fix up all the minor problems on the boat before we make the big trip to New Zealand.  At this point in time we are looking forward to reaching New Zealand and returning to the States to visit family and friends.

The rest of the pictures of Palmerston.

Don walking down the one of the avenues in Palmerston.

That's what happens when you don't follow the  mooring rules.

Phyllis and the Marster's Matriarch.

The name of the school in Palmerston.

One of the classrooms.

Library

Sunday lunch with the the Marsters.

One of the avenues in the village

Edward and Johnnie

Johnnie Marsters posing with a beautiful flower.

Parlmerston church

Inside the church

Palmerston surrounded by coral reefs.

Beautiful sunset while in Palmerston.

Coconut tree

Johnnie Marsters

Walking back to the dinghy to be taken back to the yacht.