PORT BLAIR, ANDAMAN IS. TO TRINCOMALEE, SRI LANKA

March 8-18, 2016

We departed Port Blair at 0936 hrs on March 8, 2016 bound for Trincomalee, Sri Lanka 750 nm distant.  My Wx forecast and Grib files showed that the winds would be very light for this voyage.  Just how light came as a surprise as we proceeded down the east coast of South Andaman Island.  Along the coast, during the day, we had had winds out of the ENE at 10 kts which makes for pleasant sailing.  As evening approached, the winds started to go light but we still were able to make headway.  There are many passes that can be navigated between the various Andaman Islands but most have strong currents and overfalls. I didn’t want to be becalmed near land in those conditions so I decided to add distance to the trip and go down to the south end of Little Andaman Island (10-28.0’N; 92-30.0’E) and start our “Westing” from there.  Good thing I did this because at 0100 hrs on March 9^th we were becalmed in position 10-37.5’N; 92-40.3’E:  dropped all sails and waited for a breeze.  A very light E’ly wind at 5 kts came up at 0400 hrs.  When you have winds this light, it is very difficult to carry a mainsail.  The smallest amount of swell will roll the wind out of the sail and cause it to flog and slat. This is hard on the sail and nerves so a workaround is needed.  We dropped the mainsail and poled out the headsail on the most favorable side.  The pole keeps the jib from collapsing and presents a big surface to the wind.  This is most effective when the wind is coming from abaft the beam to the stern.  Should the wind be directly aft then we can pole out two headsails and run with it.  This makes for very nice sailing but should the wind “back” or “veer” one of those headsails has to be taken in.

Thus began the long light wind sailing voyage.  It’s an exercise in patience and light wind management.  Normally, I calculate the number of days to reach a destination using a 100 mile per day figure.  We have always be able to make this with 120 nm being an average.  On this voyage, our first day out from noon-to-noon gave us 79 nm with 669 nm to go.  March 10^th noon position (10-13.7’N; 91-35.7’E) gave us 49 nm in a twenty-four hour period.  That’s slow: 2 kts an hour.  A person walks faster than that.  March 11^th Noon position (9-55.7’N; 90-26.3’E) delivered 70 nm with periods of calm and very slight seas.  Later in the afternoon, a NW’ly wind came up and started to increase.  We set a full mainsail and jib.  By 2200 hrs, the wind was blowing 20 kts so we put two reefs in the mainsail and reduced the headsail.  We don’t know where that wind came from but it was glorious while it lasted.  Unfortunately, by 0600 hrs on March 12^th it was gone and left a very lumpy sea that was difficult to negotiate with a mainsail.  Eventually, we had to drop it because it was flogging too badly.  Continued on under a poled out jib and Noon position (9-36.2’N; 88-44.4’E) gave us 102 nm with 448 nm to go.  The Bay of Bengal is not a friendly place to be.  It is prone to tropical storms and cyclones.  These are unlikely in the month of March but one wants to make time as quickly as possible.  I had good Wx reports coming in from Port Blair and Iridium-Go was providing me with three day forecasts.  I’m an old seaman and I still look at the barometer in the morning and evening.  It’s amazing how consistent the barometric pressure is in these latitudes. It doesn’t vary by more than 3mb during its daily cycle.  A drop of 5mb from the daily normal barometric pressure reading would indicate some kind of tropical depression.

Maarch 13^th Noon position (9-29.5’N; 87-34.4’E) delivered 72 nm from the Noon Position with 378 nm to go.  Today is Phyllis’ birthday.  Not much wind but smooth seas so we rejoiced in being healthy enough to undertake this sailing life.  Dolphins came to visit us and played around the boat for twenty minutes or so.  Winds have been in the NNE-ESE at <5kts but pick up in the evening to 5-7 kts.  As long as the seas are almost flat, it’s pleasant but slow.  Wx remains stable with no tropical storms on the horizon.  March 14^th Noon position (9-19.5’N; 86-18.9’E) indicates that we have made 75 nm with 303 nm to go.  Still the lightest wind sailing we have ever done.  When we look back on the voyage from Panama to the Galapagos which is notorious for the light winds encountered, we find that we were on a rollercoaster next to this one.  The one amazing aspect of these light winds is that they never really die out.  They drop out to three kts, maybe less, but they are there that allows for ghosting along at 1.5-2.0 kts.  Ridiculous!!  In our favor is a W’ly setting current at 0.5 kts which is giving millage on a daily basis.  In the evening time until early morning, we are making 3.0-3.5 kts.

We still have engine driven refrigeration.  What this means is that we have to run the engine to charge the reefer twice a day for one hrs.  I have decided to engage the transmission while we are charging the fridge and this gives us an extra 12 nm per day.  March 15^th shows that we made 77nm from Noon-to-noon (9-15.7’N; 85-01.0’E) with 226 nm to go.  It’s all unfolding slowly: a pregnancy that has to be brought to term in its own good time.  At times, we are experiencing almost no wind so I am starting to motor to make distance.  I don’t like to do this on principal:  we are a sailboat!  March 16^th   brings up 70nm for the noon position (9-00.8’n; 83-51.0’E) with 156 nm to go.  Winds are very light out of the ESE.  The evening time gives us the most consistent winds and pleasant sailing.  At times, we can carry both jibs poled out.  On March 17^th, we started to experience a 0.75-1.0 kt current against us.  Given the fact that we are only making 2.0 kts, I started to motor to get out of it.  Also, at 240 miles offshore, we have had a few Sri Lankan fishing boats approach asking for booze and smokes.  They are not a threat but can be persistent in asking for something.  They have a hard life and, surely, are paid very little for their labor.  Nevertheless, to give them something only encourages more approaches for future yachts.  March 17^th Noon Position (8-51.8’N; 82-32.2’E) shows that we made good 78 nm with 78 nm to go.  It’s going to happen!

At 1100 hrs on March 18^th, we dropped anchor in the beautiful harbor of Trincomalee in position (8-33.823’N; 81-13.759’E) on a sand/mud bottom with 25’ water depth.  We found our good sailing friends on S/Y Elonissa anchored.  This was, indeed, one of the slowest voyages we have made to date.  All’s well that ends well. 

LANGKAWI, MALAYSIA TO PORT BLAIR, ANDAMAN ISLANDS

LANGKAWI, MALAYSIA TO PORT BLAIR, ANDAMAN IS.

FEBRUARY 23-28, 2016

We departed the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club berth at 1230 hrs on February 23^rd:  distance 536nm.  The forecast from Predict Wind indicated light winds from the NE switching to W’ly in the afternoon.  Initially, we set a jib for going out of Kuah and ghosted along at 2.5 kts.  At 1500 hrs we set a full mainsail w/full jib.  The wind, as predicted, backed into the W at 10-12 kts.  This continued throughout the night with the wind slowly veering to the NW.  By the morning of February 24^th, it was back into the NE and increasing.  At 1000 hrs I put a double reef into the mainsail as the wind was increasing to 15-18 kts with higher gusts.  This is a normal Wx pattern for Thai and north Malaysian waters:  wind starts to blow in the evening and continues into the morning and then starts to die out in the afternoon.  At this time  of year –NE Moonsoon – Wx systems affecting the eastern Gulf of Siam blow across the mainland and produce strong winds on the western side.  In the forecast, I could see that this was due to happen in a few days.  At 1600 hrs we were becalmed about six nm to the west of the Thai island of Ko Racha Noi in position 07-24.2’N; 98-13.9’E:  dropped all sail and waited for wind.  The wind started to blow from the E at 1936 hrs at 15 kts.  Our course to Port Blair was 309 degrees; with the wind in the E, I decided to sail under reefed jib until the wind settled in direction one way or another.  This proved to be a good choice:  by 2200 hrs the wind was blowing 20  kts gusting 25 and the seas started to pick up to 6’.  This was pretty much the Wx pattern over the next couple of days:  short choppy seas and wind in the NE or E at 20 kts dropping down to 15 kts, at times, and then back up again.

At 0600 hrs on the morning of February 25^th, we ran into a small patch of “overfalls” in position 07-50.7’N; 97-27.1’E.  This is a kind of Tide Rip where the seas heap up and break in all different directions.  It like being in a Witches’ Cauldron that’s being steered in a seething mass of boiling water.  Some of the waves are standing straight up and collapsing;  everywhere white water is breaking.  This is an unnerving experience and even more pronounced when seas are enhancing the effects.  Fortunately, we were on the southern end of the overfalls and went through them in about ten minutes.  As I looked to the North, I could see that they extended for several miles with white water breaking everywhere.  Most times, “Overfalls” are indicated on the Maritime Charts:  Many happen during Spring Tides at the full Moon.  Indeed, those are the conditions we were experiencing but they were not charted.

At 0200 hrs on February 26, Phyllis pointed out that the sky to the SE was getting very dark.  I turned on the radar and saw that there was a very heavy black band of showers.  These things are unpredictable as they approach:  possibly strong winds and wind changes direction unexpectedly.  With this in mind, I dropped the double reefed mainsail and furled the jib.  We lay ahull (helm over and secured drifting with wind and seas) until they passed.  By 0500 hrs the showers had moved off and conditions improved so we got U/W once again on reefed jib:  wind was in the E at 10-20 kts.  We have had a favorable current running with us since we left Langakawi:  1-3kts.  Even being becalmed and lying ahull, we have averaged out a little over 104 nm from noon to noon on February 24^th and again on February 25^th.  On February 26^th, we managed to make 111 nm from noon to noon.   On February 27^th, we averaged 133 nm at 5.5 kts.  At 0330 hrs, Phyllis, ran into another patch of overfalls that scared the shit out of her.  I was off watch and sleeping when she called me to “come quickly”:  I ran up naked and confused.  During the rest of February 27^th, the Wx continued to improve with the wind holding in the NE at 10-15 kts and seas at 3-5’.  This makes for enjoyable sailing.  Our ETA for Port Blair was going to be 0400 hrs on February 28^th so there was no need to put up the mainsail; we were making 5.5 kts under reefed jib.  That favorable current was magic!

We made landfall at Port Blair and dropped anchor at 0918 hrs on Sunday February 28^th in  position:  11-41.255N; 92-42.560 on muddy bottom with 33’ water depth.  Port Blair is a wide generous bay with all kinds of anchoring  possibilities.  Our final tally for the voyage was:  536 nm in 106.8 hrs @5.0 kts.  That’s very good speed given that most of it was done under reefed jib.

It took us 2-1/2 days to clear Customs, Immigration and Coast Guard.  We did not get off the boat until Wednesday morning.  That’s unusual and we don’t really understand what happened.  As a result of the delay, we decided not to visit some of the more beautiful places:  Havelock and Neil Island.  Additionally, we have found that the internet is the slowest anywhere in the world that we have visited.  I made the mistake of not getting the Online Visa for Sri Lanka in Langkawi and have spent the last three days trying to do it.  In the end, I had to contact a shipping agent in Sri Lanka to have it done as a “third party” action.  We may sail from here not knowing if we have a visa or not. 

The plan is to sail from Port Blair on Tuesday morning March 8^th for Trincommalle, Sri Lanka: 825 nm.   

PORT BLAIR AND THE ANDAMAN ISLANDS

PORT BLAIR AND THE ANDAMAN ISLANDS

March 6, 2016

Although separated from mainland India by over 700 nm, the Andamans have remained part of the empire established by the East India Trading Company.  These islands have been remote and sparsely settled until recent times.  Port Blair is the largest city in the group and boasts a population of around 70,000 inhabitants.  There are over 300 islands in the Andamans, most are uninhabited.  From what I have been able to read at the Marine Maritime Museum, there are six different aboriginal groups that make up the Andaman population:  Nicabarese, Andamanese, Jarawa, Onges, Sentinelese and one more that I don’t remember.

The North Sentinelese are the most noteworthy because they have violently refused any attempts by outsiders to make contact or land on North Sentinel Island.  They are a hunter gatherer society still using bow and arrows. Very little is known about the language, customs or origins.  The Indian government has posted North Sentinel Island as an aboriginal reserve and dangerous to approach.  A few people have been killed trying to land on the island.  The description I was reading stated that there are only 39 known Sentinelese aboriginals left; living in about 20 huts on the island.

The Jarawa are a hunter gatherer society but more tolerant to outsiders.  For the most part they remain aloof to any integration of outside influences. They are located in the Nicobar Islands.

The Onges are another group of hunter gathers that, until recently, refused any outside influence and still only permit occasional contact.  This came about because one of their children was badly wounded from a fall into a ditch.  He was taken to the hospital on another island and recovered.  During his convalescence, he became friendly to the doctors and nurses.  Upon returning to his village, he facilitated rudimentary contacts with the villagers.  The picture I saw in the museum showed him wearing western style shorts.  He was standing with his parents that had the typical native dress of their tribe.  I believe that his DNA indicated that this tribe originated either in Africa or South Eastern Asia.  One of the aboriginal groups has DNA that is similar to the Bushmen of South Africa!

The Nicobar Islands are off-limits to foreigners. Indian nationals need to apply for a permit to visit.  This is a large tribal group of people and has modern facilities on the islands.

The Andamanese are another large tribal group that has been largely integrated into Indian culture.  Most of the people we have met in Port Blair have origins from the Southern Indian mainland.  This is a popular place for mainland Indians to come for the holidays.  There are several ferries that come into the harbor several times a week.  Also, flights are available from the mainland.  We have met very few non-Indian foreigners so far.  We are the only sailing boat in the harbor.  If there are others, they are visiting the other islands.

The more unsavory history of Port Blair involves the Celluar Jail that was built under British rule to exile and punish those political dissidents that made up the “freedom fighters” to rid themselves of British authority.  The little I have gleaned from that gruesome place is that the “First War of Independence” against the British took place in 1858 and was unsuccessful.  The Celluar Jail was developed and expanded right up into the late 1930’s.  The treatment of prisoners was as brutal and inhumane as any that I have ever read about.  This was a place where the prisoners were sent to die.  They were worked to death by being given unreasonable work quotas and then flogged for not meeting them.  Add that to substandard meals and brutal treatment by the guards resulted in the deaths of many.  As the protest concept of a “hunger strike” took place in the Celluar Jail, brutal force feeding by the guards killed many.  They inserted a tube through the nasal passage or down the throat that went into the lungs.   Milk was poured directly into the lungs which resulted in the death of the victim.  All this was done under the supervision of the prison doctor!

In the meantime and very nearby on Ross Island, the British superintendent, prison warden, family and friends were having garden parties and afternoon tea. In the end, their system of brutality, exploitation and death met far more determined opponents culminating in their greatest of leaders: Gandhi.

Although we didn’t venture outside of Port Blair, we had the opportunity to meet some new acquaintances serendipitously.  There were three of them in a military style rubber inflatable.  At the time, there was a luxurious yacht anchored nearby and they tried to gain access to visiting it but were told that “special guests” were onboard and denied access.  They meandered over to our yacht and we invited them aboard.  It turned out that they were from the army and navy and we had a delightful conversation with them.  I gave them our “boat cards” with the blog site on one of them.  Rehsi, a colonel in the navy, took it upon himself to read the whole blog from beginning to end.  Somewhere in there, I must have mentioned that we like rum.  They returned the following day with a gift of two bottles of Indian Rum.  Well received my friends and the consequent slow voyage to Sri Lanka found it to be of excellent quality.  So, we salute our Indian friends Rehsi, Mohan and Suresh.  They made the Andaman voyage worthwhile.