EAST LONDON TO CAPE TOWN

EAST LONDON TO CAPE TOWN

DECEMBER 10-14, 2016

We departed the East London anchorage at 0754 hrs local time (UTC+2) for Cape Town or as far as we could get before another SW’ly comes rolling up the East Coast.  Local sailing knowledge suggests that the best time for departure is at the tail end of a SW’ly when the barometer has almost topped out but still climbing.  Conditions might be choppy outside but the winds will come around to the S >SE>E>NE and should provide at least 2-3 days of good sailing before the advent of another Low.  One has to get out into the Agulhas current and move as quickly as possible.  Motor sailing becomes necessary to keep up the minimum speed to 6-7 kts.  The Agulhas current is usually found around the 200m contour depth off the continental shelf.  It runs anywhere from 2-6 kts and is about 12-25 nm offshore.  Closer inshore there is a counter current that has to be avoided.  It’s best not to get too far offshore in case an unexpected SW’ly pops up.  In that case, one moves closer inshore and manages as best as possible.  The bright side is that a significant SW’ly Buster isn’t likely or one wouldn’t have left a safe harbor in the first place.

Port Elizabeth (33-57.2’ S; 25-38.6’ E) is 130nm from East London.  The Agulhas current runs very strongly between the two ports.  Assuming a minimum speed of 6 kts, one can get there in 22 hrs or less.  There are no anchorages between East London and Port Elizabeth.  Once past there, the East Coast gradually turns to the South then West and safe anchorages become available all the way to Cape Agulhas.  Mossel Bay (34-10.6’ S; 22-08.5’ E)  is a  very popular anchorage to wait out a pending SW’ly Low.  It is 125nm from Cape Agulhas (The Cape of Storms).  This is another bottleneck in the southbound voyage.  The Agulhas current is diminishing and will change direction at the Cape Agulhas Banks and head back East towards Australia.  Because the Indian Ocean meets the South Atlantic Ocean at this cape, it must be rounded under moderate conditions.  There are anchorages close by to take shelter and wait for an opportune time to round Cape Agulhas.

On December 11^th the winds came around to the ENE and started to blow 25-30 kts; the seas quickly built up to over 12’ but were behind us.  I moved in closer to Mossel Bay to get out of the worst of it because the forecast was 35-40 kts just 10 miles south of us.  The gale force winds didn’t last very long and by 0500 hrs on December 12^th we were motor sailing once again with a light ESE’ly  wind about 10 kts.  This eventually veered into the SW 10-15 kts which was acceptable because the Agulhas current had diminished.  At 0600 hrs on December 13^th, we rounded Cape Agulhas (34-55.4’ S; 19-59.7’ E) under very pleasant conditions.  The wind was SSW 10 kts; seas 6’ SW’ly swells.  We set a course of 295 T for Cape Town.  Five hours after rounding the Cape, the winds backed into the SE and started blowing 25-35 kts.  This is the prevalent wind for Cape Town during the summer and it can blow quite hard.  I wanted to make a daylight arrival into Cape Town so I reefed in the jib to almost nothing; still we were making 6 kts and surfing off the bigger waves at 8-9 kts.  The Valiant is a great heavy Wx boat and can handle these conditions effortlessly.

We arrived at Cape Town at 0300 hrs local.  It was still blowing 25-30 kts and continued to do so until we finally got behind a headland that blocked the wind.  Once inside the harbor, the wind dropped out completely and we took in sail and started to motor: feast or famine.  That has been the pattern all along the East African Coast.  We are relieved to have it behind us.  It has a well-deserved reputation of being a challenging environment to sail.

Our entry into the Victoria & Alfred Marina was just beautiful.  One goes through two bridges to enter the marina.  There in the background is Table Mountain, seals are swimming all around the boat and our cruising friends are standing on the dock to help us tie up; it’s 0630 hrs in the morning.  We are overcome with joy and relief.

Cape Town is magnificent.  We are in the heart of the V & A development complex with all the amenities of a great city.  The architecture is Victorian and just about every conceivable activity is happening.  The Christmas theme and lights are everywhere; caroling, bands, individual musicians, contortionists, clowns, etc.; A hotbed of activity.  There are restaurants, bakeries, cheese, wine and all the local fruits and vegetables.  All of this caters to the tourists that come from every corner of the world.  The seals are everywhere and take over the pontoons at which the yachts are moored.  They are reluctant to move and challenge you when you try to shoo them away to board the yacht;  occasionally, a yachtie gets bitten.  They are noisy, argumentative, stink and keep you awake at night; nevertheless, delightful to have around.

In the coming days, we will explore the beauties of this magnificent city.  Every morning I look out at Table Mountain to see if it is donning a “table cloth”.  This happens when a strong SE’ly wind is blowing:  the white clouds heap up on top of the flat table top mountain and give it a table cloth.

So here we are, at the threshold of the South Atlantic Ocean.  We will be here until mid-January 2017 and then start our long voyage back to the States. 

EAST LONDON, SOUTH AFRICA

EAST LONDON, SOUTH AFRICA

DECEMBER 1-10, 2016

We arrived off the East London jetties at 0945 hrs (UTC+2) on December 1^st and anchored (33-01.385’ S; 027-53.893’ E) in the Buffalo River at 1006 hrs.  This is South Africa’s only true river port.  For yachts it enjoys the privileged position of being the first port of refuge after leaving Durban (260nm to the NE).  That leg constitutes the most dangerous and challenging conditions for any yacht because there is no possibility of a safe haven on what is called the “Wild Coast”.  It is this stretch of water, and the additional 135nm south to Port Elizabeth, that makes up the stuff of legends: abnormal seas and freak waves over 60’ in height and their corresponding troughs; violent” SW’ly Busters” which cause them. The cause for this is the Agulhas Current which runs is a SW’ly direction at 2-6 kts and the Low pressure systems that blow up the East Coast, against the current in a SW’ly direction.  There is a never ending succession of Lows and Highs that start off on the South American coast and end up at the bottom of South Africa.  A quick look at any synoptic chart of the area shows a “necklace” of the pressure systems moving from west to east.  Most of the time, there is a three to five day window between these systems.  This is the time that a yacht must leave from Richards Bay or Durban and head south to East London or Port Elizabeth.  The barometer and Weather Reports are the most important tools for deciding when to leave.  Experienced South African sailors advise leaving on the tail end of a SW’ly blow when the barometer has just about peaked at 1020+ hPa.  I have never seen such wild swings in a barometer as along this coast: 24 hPa rise or fall in a few hours.  Just before the barometer is at its peak, it’s time to go.  Enroute, the barometer will start to fall as the next Wx system approaches.  As long as it is gradually falling all is well.  Other than the daily fluctuations, should it start to rise, the next Wx system is not far away and a safe anchorage is needed.  Because the Agulhas Current is usually running at 2-3 kts,  good speed can be made by a yacht using available wind and engine if necessary; 6-9+ kts SOG is not unusual.  The Agulhas Current follows the 200m contour line off the continental shelf.  In the event of an approaching SW’ly, one needs to move close inshore and out of the current.  This will produce a significant reduction in wave height.  Our experience is that a 10-15 kt wind against the SW’ly setting current is doable as long as it doesn’t increase; GRIB files, Wx Reports and the barometer tell the story.  There are excellent Wx Reports coming from Cape Town Radio, Peri-Peri net and, the best of all (The  Samnet on SSB 14316.0 mhz at 0630 UTC and 1130 UTC).  Sam is the “Good Shepard” for the East African coast, Seychelles, Madagascar and Mauritius.  There is no one who gives a more detailed or comprehensive Wx report.  Although it is a Ham Net, he will take calls from anyone. 

Back to East London.  There isn’t much happening along the waterfront at the moment.  The Buffalo Yacht Club is waiting to renew their Restaurant & Pub license but allow visiting yachts to use their hot water showers and potable water. Latimer’s Landing on the other side of the river is undergoing reconstruction.  Just under the bridge on the East side of the river, there is the Ski Boat Club which welcomes visiting yachts. It serves food and has a bar.  Shopping is best done by calling Rocco’s Taxi Service (072 583 0653) and requesting to be taken to Hemingway Mall.  At the time of this posting the cost was R100 = US$ 7.00 one way.  The Mall has everything and more.

Anchoring in the river, just below the line of yachts that are all moored together, is safe, spacious and good holding in mud.  We have switched anchor positions several times and found that the bottom has lots of black garbage bags and rags; still the holding is good.  There is a Zoo for the curious.  The Mercedes Benz Co. has an assembly line here and is the largest employer.  Thousands of cars are produced and gigantic Car Carriers come in to load them up.  Don’t obstruct the dock on the West Bank or you will be asked to move by the harbor tug boats on the east side.  The only thing required for departure is filing a “Flight Plan” at the local Police Station located at Latimer’s Landing.  It’s a simple one page report and can be filled out any time before departure.  It’s the easiest process we have experienced so far.

On Saturday 10 December, we depart East London for Cape Town (580 nm).  Hopefully, we will have a Wx window that will get us around Cape Agulhas (Cape of Storms) and on to Cape Town.  Regardless, once past Port Elizabeth (135 nm to the SW), there are safe anchorages to weather out any unforeseen weather coming up from the South.  We have a reservation at the V&A Marina in Cape Town where we will spend Christmas and New Year.         

SOUTH AFRICA: OBSERVATIONS AND EXPERIENCES

SOUTH AFRICA: OBSERVATIONS AND EXPERIENCES

OCTOBER 26 TO DECEMBER 3, 2016

We have been in South Africa for 39 days: 13 days in Richards Bay at the Zululand Yacht Club; 22 days at the Durban Marina; 3 days anchored in East London.  Our experience with South Africans has been entirely positive.  They are a warm, friendly, generous people that enjoy meeting the tourists that come to their country.  We have to qualify this since we are foreign yachts in marinas that cater to the more affluent in the country; we are Caucasian.  The former system of Apartheid has left behind inequalities that we couldn’t begin to understand. 

In Natal, the Zulu tribe is predominant and the President of the country is Zulu.  One of the biggest problems we have seen is unemployment.  There just aren’t enough jobs to employ black South Africans.  This leads to crime, thievery and unsafe areas in Richards Bay and Durban.  The local advice is to wear no jewelry, carry very little cash and show no cameras or designer sunglasses; only frequent areas that are considered safe in the daytime.  Companies that provide security are the biggest employers.  Private homes have walls with barbed wire draped over the top and security guards inside.  Most White South Africans are forced to take security measures to protect their families.

The country is rich in land and mineral resources and fertile enough to grow most of the things we have in the States or Europe. The quality is excellent.  To enter a South African butchery is to behold and array and variety of meats that wouldn't be found in the States.  The price for food is quite a bit cheaper than in the States or Europe; labor is even more reasonable.  This makes South Africa one of the best places to have repairs done on a yacht.  The shipyards are efficient and provide a high quality of workmanship.  I believe that they are cheaper than Boat Lagoon in Phuket, Thailand and the standard of workmanship is far superior to the shoddy jobs that Thai’s do.  Part of this is due to the system that we experienced at Bowman’s Yard in Durban.  He has the yard and facilities for hauling out but all the labor for the different jobs is independent contractors that work through him but are paid directly by the client.  They, in turn, employ and supervise their labor force.  All this provides excellent service at very reasonable prices.  The white South African is entrepreneurial, hardworking and good at what he does.  The black South Africans provide the brute labor force and are still trying to achieve equality in a very complex society.  Apartheid is gone but the inequalities of the system are still being overcome.  Reverse discrimination against the Whites is the logical outcome.  In conversations with both White and Black, they have been candid about the problems they are facing.  The political situation is frustrating for both races.  The ANC is Nelson Mandela’s creation and remains the dominant political force in the country.  Over the years, it has become corrupt and inefficient but remains in power by duping the uneducated:  Donald Trump might have studied their tactics.

For us, it has been an exciting wonderful experience.  

RICHARDS BAY AND DURBAN, SOUTH AFRICA

RICHARDS BAY AND DURBAN, SOUTH AFRICA

OCTOBER 26 – NOVEMBER 13, 2016

We arrived off Richards Bay jetty at 1148 hrs on Oct. 26, 2016 and were secured at TuziGazi marina at 1224 hrs.  After the gale force winds we had off Cape St. Lucia, the winds continued in the South at 10-15 kts.  We had about 40 nm to go and I didn’t want to get there too early so, rather than motor, we put in a series of tacks to arrive off the port.  I always prefer sail power over the engine.

Richards Bay is the largest coal port in the world.  Just to the south of the port, there may be more than forty vessels anchored waiting to load.  What this means to a yacht entering or leaving is that it will have to wait until Port Control gives permission and the channel is clear.  There are two marinas in Richards Bay:  TuziGazi & The Royal Zululand Yacht Club (28-47.576’ S; 032-05.010’ E).  In order to clear in with the authorities, one has to go to TuziGazi.  This marina was devastated by a bad storm last year that caused many of the pontoons to drag and collapse.  Many yachts suffered damage.  Although it is still operating as if nothing had happened, most of the pontoons are bare metal with very little fendering.  Added to that, they are charging too much money for non-existent facilities.  The Royal Zululand Yacht Club is totally different.  It is one of the friendliest and most welcoming Yacht Clubs in the world.  On arrival they give you a free bottle of “bubbly” and a berth for two weeks without charge. The surroundings are beautiful and they have haul out facilities, a chandlery, and general repairs.  A yacht can get just about anything done in Richards Bay.  Reputedly, it is a little cheaper for repairs than Durban, which is a 2-1/2 hour drive to the South.  Depending on the repairs, some of technicians may have to come from Durban which would offset any savings realized.

During our stay at the ZLYC, we were advised that the WORLD ARC RALLEY would be arriving on November 9^th and all berths had to be vacated to make room for them.  Accordingly, we departed on ZLYC at 1500 hrs on November 7^th for Durban which is about eighty-five nm to the South.  We had a 10-15 kt NE’ly wind which put it almost on our stern, so we poled out the genoa and sailed under that.  It was a rolly trip and the winds picked up to 20+ kts at times but we made good progress and arrived off the Durban jetties at 0812 hrs in the morning.  A berth had been arranged at the Durban Marina so we went right in and were all fast at 0900 hrs.  Within two hours, the S’ly verred into the SW and blew like stink (35 kts).  We were fortunate to have made it just in time.  That is what makes the African East Coast so difficult to navigate.

Richards Bay is one big shopping center with a coal loading terminal.  It was exciting to be back in a first world country.  This is meat eating country and the portions are hugh.  They still have bonifide butchers cutting all sorts of beautiful and exotic meats.  Next to Stateside quality they are just as good, if not better, and cheap.  A t-Bone or Porterhouse steak, big enough for two, is about $5 US.  Pork and Lamb follow suite and quite affordable.  In general, food is very reasonable.

South Africans are a warm, welcoming, generous and friendly people.  They will strike up a conversation whenever they can.  The yachting fraternity is most helpful and will do everything they can to assist in solving a problem.  The beauty of Richards Bay is that it is strategically located near one of the National Parks:  Hluhluwe (sloo-sloo-we); I don’t know how they get that pronunciation but it’s Zulu.  We rented a car with our cruising friends and drove to Cape  St Lucia which was and has the largest population of white and black rhino.  It was from this park that ”Operation Rhino” started and has brought the rhinos back from the brink of extinction.  It is  only one and one half hours away from Richards Bay.  We made arrangements to take a day safari through the northern half of the park.  The tour operators pick you up at the rooming house at 0500 hrs in the morning.  It’s a forty-five minute drive to the park entrance.  Hluhluwe is stunningly beautiful    The “Big Five” are here but it is doubtful that all would be seen in the same day.  We managed to see everything except a Leopard.  The safari lasted for about eight hours.  Essentially, one is sitting in a four wheel drive with an elevated cab.  This gives the best view and the tour operators are very knowledgeable of where the animals are to be found:  they use a “Whats App” among themselves.

We arrived back at the rooming house at 1500 hrs.  The following day, we had booked a tour on a boat that navigates on the Cape St Lucia Lake.  This is the place to see hippos and crocodiles.  There are some eight hundred hippos in the lake that live in herds of about eighteen adults.  We were told that the hippos defecate thirty-two tons of “poop” per day into the lake.  How is that consumed? By Prawns.  Enjoy!  In South Africa, more people (3000 per year) are killed by hippos than by any other type of animal.  They look so docile in the water but once they are on land they can run amazingly fast.  They only leave the water during the nighttime so this is the time to be careful.  There are some big crocs in the lake but they seem to have stopped breeding due to the increased salinity of the water.  The country has been under drought conditions for the last four years.  Just now, it is beginning to rain.

Durban is South Africa’s busiest port.  The pilots use helicopters to land on the ships.  It makes sense because these waters are too turbulent for small craft.  Durban Marina has over 350 berths available:  It’s humongous.  We will haul out here for a “Condition & Evaluation” survey for the insurance company.  Additionally, we have a few repairs to get all ready for the trip South.  Unfortunately, Durban has a reputation for being unsafe.  There are areas where whites just can’t go.  For the most part, one can walk around certain areas during the daytime but should not carry much money, any cameras, any designer shades or jewelry.  The upscale malls are safe and have everything one would find in the States or Europe.  The Durban Marina is in an area that is safe and there are always many policemen on duty.  To enter the pontoon area, one is electronically thumb printed; the rest is done by electronic keys.  So far, it has been a positive experience.

The next leg of the voyage from Durban to East London (255nm) or Port Elizabeth (120nm from East London) presents the greatest weather danger to the cruiser.  It is this stretch of water that has no place to hide.  The Agulhas current is running anywhere between 2-6 kts seaward of the 200M contour.  Once committed, there is no turning back.  All cruisers are looking for a favorable Wx window that will give them about three days to make a safe passage:  GRIB files, barometer and synoptic charts are the primary means of evaluating when it’s safe to go.  There are many experienced South African sailors who will advise and help plan out a departure.  Once past Port Elizabeth, the Agulhas current starts to dissipate in a much wider area.

The Cheetah Rehabilitation Center.

On the way back to Richards Bay we stopped a the Cheetah rehabilitation  center, which is called Emdoren Cheetah  Project .
We saw 4 different cats that were being rehabilitated  it was quite interesting. We were even able to pet the young Cheetahs.  It was incredible. The names of the 4 cats was the serval,carcal,cheetahs  and the wild cats that look like house tabby.

This is the Carcal cat.

Also a Carcal.

 This is the Serval cat.

Also the Serval.

Couldn't get a good picture of them.

These are the two young cubs that we could go in their pen with the guide and pet them with the guide close by. This Sarah  petting the one we were told to pet. There was a group of us in the pen at one point  it was being petted and he just laid done completely relaxed. It was amazing. 

This is the male Cheetah that we were also able to go in the pet but only to take pictures.

The guide was playing with them. He had a pole with a plastic jug full o peebles and going around in circles and the Cubs were chasing it. 

The last one was the wild African  cat. They look just like house tabby.  We also got to pet them.

As we drove into the components we

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Riverboat trip to see the Hippos and the Crocodiles.

The following day that we went on the safari  we went on a riverboat to see the Hippos and the Crocodiles on the St. Lucia river. Also nice trip.

We were told that the Hippos  can't swim, so when the go down under water it's to walk and than come up for air.

They didn't say why the Hippos Yawn.  I think it's to get more air. 

The name of this heroni s called Goliath.

The Goliath  in flight.

More Hippos. 

This is a hippo tooth. It's  hugh.

Our friends Sarah and Norman on the yacht Norsa. 

If you look closely  you will see a little yellow bird called yellow weavers. They weave their nests as you will see in the next picture.

Those little round balls are the nests. Once the nest is finish the male shucks the leaves off the grass and if the female does not approve he has to do it again. 

The Goliath  in flight. They are the biggest heron.

We only saw 2 crocs but couldn't take pictures cause they kept evading the boat, but this one was sunning himself. He is a big one.

Richards Bay, South Africa

We went on a Safari  with Sarah and Norman  from the yacht Norsa. Our first safari  ever at the Hluhluwe Park and what an experience  to see all these animals up close. We did get to see all the animals that we were to see and more. Alot were to far to photograph. Hope to do it again while we are in Durban.

The first animals we saw were the elephants. But of course  the pictures are all mixed up. Enjoy.😊 anyway

when the guide pointed out this photo it looked like tall trees but they were giraffes.  As you will see we drove to the area that they were at and saw them up close. They are so beautiful.

These are impalas.  You will see them better.

White Rhinos .

Zebra.

Beautiful scenery. 

More zebras with the giraffes  that you saw  that looked like tall trees.

Male impalas.

Female impala.

Male impala.

These white rhinos  are very rare.

More impalas.

This was our lunch break. We had a braai which is barbecue here in South Africa with wine, beer and soft drinks. Plus a pasta and fruit salad. It was great.

Wort hogs.

Water buffaloes. 

A baby  baboon. 

This is a  beautiful black bird with  a long tail and when it flew the tail just flatter fro side to side. I which I had a better picture of it plus it being black is hard to photograph. 

Here's another picture of this bird.

The scenery was just amazing. The mountains, the trees and the flowers. Incredible 

Big baboon.