Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Pictures that have been forth coming

Yacht Solstice

Fogged in

Sightseeing  while at
anchored 

John and Karen

Don and Phyllis
Auburn Angel John and Karen's Yacht

Solstice leaving the harbor

Off to the races in Charlottetown, PEI

Great picture

Quebec

Natural waterfall

Chateau Frontenac, Quebec

Coming into Quebec

Invasion of the Geese

Move over peanut cause the Big Boy is coming through

HALIFAX, NS TO BOSTON

August 31, 2011

We be sailing this morning around 0730 hrs for Boston.  We have a good Wx window with projected winds out of the NE and then SW.  Nothing looming on the bad Wx side.  We will not post until we arrive in Boston on Sunday or Monday. 

Our best wishes to all our friends.

Monday, August 29, 2011



HALIFAX

August 29, 2011

TS "Irene" passed through last night and the early part of this morning bringing moderate winds that were gusting to 45 kts but nothing sustained.  The marina we are in is well protected from the S and SW and that is where the winds were from.  Phyllis and I stayed up until 0330 hrs this morning and then decided all was safe with "Solstice" so we went to bed.

I spent the day making out the Passage Plan for the voyage from Halifax to Boston.  The distance is 370 nm.  I'll get a favorable Wx window and go for it.  Also, changed out the engine oil and racor fuel filters on the Volvo Penta.  Tomorrow Phyllis goes shopping and we wrap things up for a Wednesday departure.

At long last I was notified that the marina in Montreal had received our package with the medicine that was sent Priority Mail from the States in mid-July!!  Is that possible?  Anyway, we're having it shipped back to our Florida address.  The second strike on the Canadian Postal Service is a letter we mailed  over three weeks ago that hasn't arrived yet.  I believe that FedEx would be the best bet for sending and receiving mail and packages.

We have found the source of an annoying leak in the boat that started in Lake Michigan.  A small quantity of water would exit from behind the port settee and find its way into the bilge.  The moisture caused the access boards to the sole (floor) to swell and it became difficult to get them up so that we could check the bilge.  Since we couldn't find the leak, we used  a "Shamwow" to soak up the water.  We would check it twice daily and ring it out.  This worked for the most part and became a daily routine.  After a while, it became known as "the rag" and took on the connotations of a menstrual cycle: sometimes heavy other times light.  We always figured that it had something to do with the water pressure system so we turned it off whenever it wasn't needed.  My best guess was that it was a fresh water hose leading from the galley to the head.  I pulled panels and tried to find it without avail.

A few days ago while pulling "the rag" I asked Phyllis to taste the water.  She was reluctant but did it and IT WAS SALTY!!  I immediately ran into the head and started checking lines.  Then I found it: a small crack in on of the salt water filters that feeds from a thru-hull fitting.  A litle epoxy, permatex and rigging tape has given us a temporary fix and "the rag" has been relegated to other services.


Sunday, August 28, 2011

HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA

August 28, 2011

It's 1930 hrs Atlantic Time (+1 hr on Eastern Daylight Savings Time) and we are under the influence of TS "Irene" which is blowing from the SE at 30+ kts.  The winds are projected to veer SW and blow to 65 kts by midnight.  We have secured "Solstice" as best as we can.  The marina is pretty secure for these winds but it will be a long night tending lines.

Our plan is to sail from Halifax to Boston: distance 400 nm.  It's possible that we make a stop in Lockport, NS if the winds don't cooperate or the seas heap up.  lockport is 100 nm SW of Halifax.  This would cut down the distance to Boston and relieve standing night watches.  The most important thing in crossing the Gulf of Maine is doing it within a 5 day weather window. 

The Bay of Fundy is an extension of the Gulf of Maine.  It is renowned for tides that can exceed 54 ft.  This equates to 115 billion tonnes of seawater that pours inland twice daily.  The currents average 2.5-3.0 kts on a crossing over to Boston.  In the Bay itself they can exceed 5 kts.  I read that there is a tidal bore at the upper end of the Bay.  A tidal bore is a large wave that forms where two opposing tides meet:  Don't want anything to do with that!   The same book indicated that the amount of water pouring into the Bay of Fundy every 12 hours and 25 minutes is equal to the outflow of 2000 St Lawrence Rivers.  Now that is impressive.

Here we are sitting out the storm.  Will update before we leave Halifax.

2ND ANCHORAGE ENROUTE TO HALIFAX

August 24, 2011

We dropped anchor in Mushaboom Habor @ Taylor's Head Cove: 44 deg 48.8' N; 62 deg 32.2' W.  The wind was blowing out of the SW and forecast to back to S 25-30 kts.  Once again, a pretty little cove that was protected for S'ly wind but exposed to anything from the North.  We didn't have to worry about that since all wind was South.

We spent another 2 days in this anchorage waiting on the wind to subside.  Finally, on August 26th @ 1730 hrs the wind started to subside.  We weighed anchor and got underway @ 1806 hrs.  Once outside the anchorage, the seas were still running 6' but the wind was moderating and we were able to make 4-4.5 kts towards Halifax about 48 nm distant.

We entered Halifax's West Arm @ 0500 hrs and continued up to the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron Marina.  Since it was so early in the morning, we picked up a mooring ball and waited for the office to open.  We were exhausted and crashed until 100 hrs when we got a call on the VHF radio from our friends John and Karen.  They had arranged a berth for us.  We dropped the mooring line and moored inside the marina. 

1ST ANCHORAGE ENROUTE TO HALIFAX

August 21, 2011

At 1500 hrs with 6-7' confused seas and motoring, our progress towards Halifax was slowed to 3 kts or less.  Speed is slowed considerably when you have to climb over and down waves.  As a former tugboat man, I have a tendency to "tough it out".  Fortunately, we were still going in the same direction as the 37' Tayana "Auburn Angel".  They had taken a more inshore route and called to see what we were thinking.  Also, they indicated that they were going to seek an anchorage in Country Harbor:  very sensible!.  A quick look at the chart indicated that it was 17  nm away.  Very quickly I decided to make for the harbor and relief from the elements.  Additionally, a strong wind warning was being posted for the following day.

At 1945 hrs we dropped anchor in a charming little cove on the North side of Harbor Is: 45 deg 08.4' N; 61 deg 36.4' W  The island is uninhabited and so all was quiet except for the moaning of the wind.  I dropped anchor in 18' of water and put out 120' of anchor rode with 30' of chain.  The recommended scope of chain/rode to water depth is 7:1.  In this protected area with 25 kt winds, it was enough.  If more is needed, I still have another 170' usable rode.  Additionally, I have 300' of 5/16" chain.  I'm using a 45 lb Manson Supreme anchor, a second generation technologically developed anchor that set immediately.  Through out two nights and the following day, it held securely without giving up an inch.  On this voyage, this was our first time anchoring and it went off without difficulties.  In the past, Phyllis and I always anchored with our 40' Wharram Catamaran "Giniginamar".

On August 24 @ 0630 we weighed anchor and got underway @0700.   The wind was still fresh out of the SW but the seas had moderated and we were able to make 4.5 kts towards Halifax.  By 1525 the seas had built up to 6+ feet and confused, our speed had gone down to 2.5-3 kts, so it was time to look for another anchorage.  

CHARLOTTETOWN, PEI TO HALIFAX, NS WITH ANCHORAGES IN BETWEEN

It has been a long hard struggle against the elements after leaving Charlottetown, PEI.  It has taken 8 days to make Halifax only to find that we are preparing for the remnants of TS "Irene".  I'll break the voyage down into the several anchorages we had to make because of strong wind warnings and seas.

August 20, 2010

We departed the Charlottetown Yacht Club Marina at 0700 hrs this morning.  Although the forecast was for SW'ly winds 15-25 kts this was not the situation in Charlottetown.  We had a light SW'ly wind at 10 kts and it was a beautiful day for getting underway.

Since Charlottetown is located 10 nm up the Hillsborough River, we motored out out of the bay until we cleared the shoals offshore and then set the main and jib for a wonderful sail on a beam to broad reach.  These are the most favorable points of sailing for ease and speed.  We were averaging 6 kts with sunshine and warm weather.  The Northumberland Straits is known for its warm waters and favorable weather with virtually no fog.  Most of this trip has been cold.  The waters of the Gulf of St Lawrence are cold.  While sailing it's cold but in the harbors it gets much warmer.  If the sun gets hidden in clouds,the cold factor goes up.  The Canadians got screwed when it comes to warm weather.  Once we left Montreal for Quebec, the weather got increasingly colder.  This becomes more so with a NE'ly wind which is blowing off Labrador and the colder Gulf waters.

Good sailing  weather continued until we entered the Bay of St George about 40 miles distant from Charlottetown.  The last 10 miles saw an increase of wind so we reefed the main and rolled in some jib.  If there had been even more wind, we would have double reefed the main and set the staysail.  This makes for a great heavy WX combination.  The actual distance form Charlottetown to the Canso locks is 90 nm.  The Bay of St George and the Straits of Canso are renowned for strong winds.  This was not the case with u:.  The wind headed up and died in the Straits of Canso and we locked through the Canso Lock in dead calm wind at 0345 hrs on August 25th.  How wonderful is that!!

Exiting the Canso Locks is straight forward and easy:  There are range lights for big ships.  The Wx continued calm so we motored until we finally entered the open Atlantic Ocean and was greeted by an easy rolling 6' swell.  A feeling I hadn't experienced since I retired from tugs in March 2011.  It was a wonderful sensation and we enjoyed the beautiful sunrise that accompanied it.

By 1500 hrs in the afternoon, the glorius SW'ly swell had given way to 6-7' confused seas and yachting was no longer fun!  Time to seek a safe haven anchorage.  Fortunately, there are many along the Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia.

Thursday, August 18, 2011

CHARLOTTETOWN, PEI

August 18, 2011

Woke up this morning to a howling wind: 25 kts and gusting higher. We'll stay another day until it drops down to 15-20.
In our travels around Charlottetown, we found a store totally dedicated to Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinager.  You go in and they have about 85 different olive oils for tasting.  Each one is labeled from the country and region it comes from.  Phyllis and I really liked the Black Truffle one from Spain so we bought some for special occasions.
 Many of our friends have lived and travelled in Mediterranean countries.  In all of our travels abroad or in the States, we have never seen a store with this kind of inventory.  All of it is in bulk.  It's not cheap but here is the website:    www.allthingsolive.ca    They ship.   Enjoy

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

CHARLOTTETOWN, PEI

August 17, 2011

A glorious day!  We got up at 1030 hrs this morning after going to bed at 1700 hrs yesterday afternoon.  It is an absolutely beautiful day.  My first task is to call the Charlottetown Yacht Club and find out if they have a berth for me.  We stopped in over there yesterday and put our name in the hat for the first available one.  Yep, they called and we have one ready.

1100 hrs: switch berths and take a shower at our new marina.

Charlottetown is quite beautiful in a Victorian way.  We are right on the waterfront in the old part of town and it is very charming.  Definitely worth a visit by land, sea or air.  The people are friendly and courteous; the weather is mild and comfortable.  There are artists, musicians, and plays going on everynight until September 1st.  I guess they have to make the best of it while the weather is decent because the -20 to-30's are the winter fare.

We went out today to do the tourist thing.  PEI is noted for its' potatoes.  I saw  a sign in a restaurant advertising "chocolate covered chips".  Not as bizarre as first impression would have it: potatoes are a neutral tasting tuber so just about anything could be concocted.  The more I see of this place, the more I like it.

Lot of sailing here.  Right now the Charlottetown Yacht Club is have a race starting at 1800 hrs.  Great weather for this as the winds are light and "spinnakers" can be used.  A spinnaker is a big balloon type sail with fabulous color schemes.  Basically it is used in light winds.

We'll be here another day to sort things out and make equipment checks.  Our next hurdle will be getting through the Canso Strait Lock and out into the Atlantic Ocean.  At this point in time, we have made up enough time where we are back on schedule for scooting down the Nova Scotian coast and then heading for Bar Harbor, ME




RIVIERE AU RENARD TO CHARLOTTETOWN, PEI

August 14, 2011

We departed the marina at 1130 hrs this morning.  I needed the extra time to complete the Passage Plan to Charlottetown.  The winds were out of the S-SW which was favorable for us as we were on an E'ly heading.  We put up the main and "Jenny" about 3 nm off Rimouski and started to have a beautiful sail.  The winds started to freshen up and out speeds were close to 8 kts so I pulled in some jib and things settled down.  This would have bee an ideal wind to sail all the way to Charelottetown, however, in this part of the Gulf of St Lawrence, winds change direction from one area to another.  Sure enough, as soon as we rounded Cape Gaspe, the wind hauled direction to the NE and the died out.  Rolled up the "jenny" but kept the main sail in case things changed.  Started up "precious" and here we are motoring once again.

August 15, 20011 (Monday)

Here we are motoring along towards Charlottetown.  What wind there is is unfavorable as it is out of the NE.  We note that it isn't as cold on this leg of the trip.  The closer we come to the Northumberland Straits, the warmer the water will get.  The claim is made that they have the warmest waters North of Virginia and fog is virtually absent.  By the end of July, the waters in the Northumberland Strait have reached 70-75 deg. F, not bad for this part of the Northern world.  We spotted some whales and several seals.  When you first spot a seal, you see a large black basketball shaped thing in the water.  Closer inspection reveals this inquisitive mammal.

The evening put in well into the Northumberland Straits off Egmont Bay at PEI.  We started to run into thousands of fishing buoys as the light was fading.  #!@^%& this means posting myself on the bow with a searchlight and directing Phyllis at the helm to come left or right.  Just to make things more enjoyable, it started to rain!!   At least there is no fog!  So the night was spent on "bow watch" with searchlight. 



August 16, 2011

Yep, still motoring along with a light head wind and light rain. 
At 0610 in the morning, we passed under the 8 mile long Confederation Bridge.  If the night had been miserable just ahead was a little extra:  the winds picked up to NE 20-25 and the seas to 6ft.  The Straits are shallow so any sea will be short and choppy.  This isn't like a carnival ride because it goes on hour after hour.  So here we are motoring along in a tidal area and every six hours the tide changes.  If the tide is against the wind-the seas are more short and choppy; with the wind less so.

The last 20 nm into Hillsborough Bay where the entrance to Charlottetown is located was not enjoyable but all part of the sailing world.  And then,  everything died out about 8 miles before the Charlottletown entrance.  The visibility cleared up and we were able to see the very red clay dirt on PEI.  Life is good again.

Charlottetown is located about 10 nm up the Hillsborough River.  The River is well marked with range lights and presents no problem for navigation. There was" no room at the inn" for Charlottetown Yacht Club Marina so we went to Quartermaster Marina next door.  We were both exhausted from so much amusement that we took a stroll into town, had a few beers and an evening meal.  By 1700 hrs we turned in and didn't get up until the following morning.  



RIMOUSKI TO RIVIERE AU RENARD

August 12, 2011

We have had no Internet since Rimouski so this is being posted from Charlottetown, PEI (Prince Edward Island).

We left Rimouski at 0700 hrs this morning for Riviere Au Renard: distance 180 nm.  There was very little wind to work with so we motor sailed using the big foresail (Genoa or Jenny) and set the main sail later on.  The wind was out of the NE @ 5-10 kts but this was an unfavorable direction for us as it was almost head on. It would have taken too much time to tack back and forth to make distance.  In the high latitudes you have to make time in the good weather window forecast or you'll get smacked with a strong wind/gale warning.  Winds from the NE come off Labrador and are cold, cold , cold.

Although the day was spent motor sailing, the seas were calm and we saw several whales and seals.  The Gaspe coast is ruggedly beautiful.  Fog started to set in around 2000 hrs.  We were behind another sail boat "Auburn Angle" and couldn't see them in less than 1/4 mile.

August 13, 2011

Still sailing towards Riviere Au Renard.  The NE wind and fog produced the coldest night I've had on watch.  I was layered with a flannel shirt, fleece jacket and Gore Tex foul Wx gear and I was still cold.  I should have put on some boots because my feet were cold too.  Fog started to dissipate around 0300 hrs and I could see the last of the great Appalachian Mountain Chain ending on the rugged coast. It is along this stretch of Gaspesian coast that we reached our highest latitude at the Mountain of Gros Morne: 49 deg 18 minutes North and 65 deg 32.6 minutes W.  From here it's all downhill and getting warmer by the day!!:)

We made Riviere Au Renaud Marina @1645 hrs today (Saturday).  This is a small marina with limited facilities.  Fortunately, I was able to buy three 20 liter jerry cans of diesel: total 16 gals.  I calculate that I burn about 0.75 gals per hour.  The price per liter of diesel in Riviere Au Renard is $1.50 CAD.  This is $5.96 per gal.  Americans should be happy with our fuel prices because gas is even more expensive.  It's Saturday so Sunday will find us in a fishing port with everything closed.  This being so..I plan to sail for Charlottetown, PEI tomorrow: distance 280 nm. 








Wednesday, August 10, 2011

RIMOUSKI

August 10, 2011

Today has been one of getting ready for the next leg of the journey.  I have to make up fender boards for the boat..  They are nothing more than 2" x 6" x 6' lengths of board that are placed outside the fenders to provide more protected surface when alongside fishing boats or walls.  I should have done this in Douglas, MI but it was a project that never happened.

Changed oil and filter today:  It had 200 hrs on it and was very black.  Tomorrow I'll change out the Racor fuel filters and fuel up.  Hopefully, sail power will take over the excellent job the Volvo Penta has done.

We have "grubbed up" for the upcoming voyage.  It is hard to get used to the Canadian prices.  I think I said before that they are at least 30% more that what we pay in the states.  Some items are double that.

GROS CACOUNA TO RIMOUSKI

August 9, 2011

We left Gros Cacouna anchorage this morning@ 0700 hrs in fog.  We have been travelling with "Auburne Angle", a 37 ft Tayana, from Quebec to Rimouski.  The fog disipated around 0900 hrs and the day turned out to be absolutely beautiful.  During the trip to Rimouski, we saw three Beluga Whales.  There are less than 500 of these manamals left.  They are the only whale that can turn their head.  Length 10-16 ft and weigh 700-1500 kg.  they are pure white, no dorsal fin, and supposedly, can be heard calling or whistling "beluga".  From a distance they look like small patches of ice.

We arrived in Rimouski at 1545 and found a berth at the marina.  The town of Rimouski is not a tourist town but it is a convenient stop for marine charts and shopping mall items.  It has a good marine hardware store and most things can be ordered and had the following day.

Rimouski is an important Waypoint our journey out of the St Lawrence River.  The Tidal Currents become less strong and there is less tidal height.  It now becomes possible to start sailing day and night.  On the trip over from Cap-a-l'Aigle to Gros Cacouna, the wind was blowing about 20 kts.  While setting up the staysail, for the first time during this trip, I tasted the salt water spray.  Glorious!!

I have some maintenance to do: oil change and racor filter change plus minor adjustments.  My plan is to spend a few days here and then leave on Friday morning - weather permitting.  If we can get a good Wx forecast, we'll try to make Riviere au Renard which is 190 miles from Rimouski.  From Riviere au Renard to Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island it's around 200 miles.  Give us decent Wx and we can log miles. As we approach the Northunberland Straits, the Wx will get warmer and more pleasant, at least this is what the Canadian Sailing Directions indicate.

CAP-A-L'AIGLE TO PORT DE GROS CACOUNA

August 8, 2011

Set out tihis morning from Cap-a-l'Aigle marina despite the NE'ly winds that were predicted to blow 10-20 kts.  We decided to skip Tadoussac because of strong wind warnings.  We got a good tip from an experienced French yatchman to go to Gros Cacouna and anchor there.  This meant crossing the St. Lawrence to the Eastern side which we would have had to do from Tadoussac anyway.  Distance from Cap-a-l'Aigle was 32 miles.  According to the Fenchman, the Canadian government spent $200 millon to develop Gros Cacouna as an LNG port, however, the business never paid off.  The port stands as a monument to failed anticipation. It is a fabulous place to anchor and not a ship or person in sight.  Supposedly, you have to get permission to anchor here but the Frenchman indicated that it was all beauracratic nonsense  so we did nothing and there were no consecuences.

We anchored at 1710 hrs in 20 ft of water surrrounded by breakwaters in perfect protection against the elements. 

This was our first time anchoring during this trip and all went well.  We could not have chosen a better place. The Frenchman (Pierre) in his racing yacht "War Eagle" was already there and anchored.  A peaceful night under a clear sky and stars.

Sunday, August 7, 2011

CAP-A-L-AIGLE

August 7, 2011

We will spend the day here since the Wx forecast is for NE'ly winds 10-20 kts.  We're starting to meet several interesting sailors and characters.  Maybe tomorrow will bring a better forecast.  Also, I'm considering skipping the Tadoussac Whale Watching trip.  I have a feeling that it is going to be "zoo scene" over there with tour boats jockying for position.  Additionally, the marinas are on a "first come- first serve" basis so I don't know if we will find a spot.  Lastly, there are terrific currents and Tide Rips at the mouth of the Saguenay River.  The area is prone to fog.  I don't want to get caught up and stuck there for several days.  It's only 40 nm from here.  The other option is to cross over the St Lawrence River from here and anchor in Port De Gros Cacuna.  This puts us oe the South and East shore of the Gaspe pennisula and heading in the right direction.  We got this information from a fellow French yachtsman who has anchored there many times.  Supposedly, you have to get permission but the French are like the Spanish: who bothers with "permission".  It's their country and they'll go where they want.  I can remember a time in Toledo, Spain, on the banks of the Tajo River, when we were poaching fish with our Spanish friends just below a dam patrolled by the Military on the walls above.  Americans are "rule of law" and permission oriented people.  The French and Spanish have so many rules and law decrees that they obey what they want and dismiss the rest. 

QUEBEC TO CAP-A-L-AIGLE

August 6, 2010

We left Quebec this morning following the instructions on the Tide Tables: Depart Quebec 2-1/2 hrs before High Tide.  We gave ourselves an extra hour just to be sure.  The trip down the River was beautiful with a following SW'ly wind.  The first few hours we were motoring against a Flood tide and I should have put on a few more rpms to make the instructed 5-6 kts.  I didn't and paid for it during the last few hours in approaching Cap-a-l'Aigle (Cape of the Eagle).  When we were sailing with the full Ebb Tide we were averaging 10-13kts.  With Tides running 14-18 ft, that's a lot of water moving.  On the contrary, trying to motor against a 4 kt current is tough and slow.  Our last hour saw us making only 3.5 kts.  The wind was starting to blow and gust to 25 kts but we made the Marina and were all fast at 1906 hrs.  It's pretty impressive to watch the drying out of the Marina on a 14 ft drop in water.  All these marinas have floating docks so that one doesn't have to be continually adjusting lines.

Cap-a-l-Aigle is a quaint little village nestled under the Laurentian Mountain Chain whose height can approach 2500 ft.  Also, we are now starting to see areas of Tide Rips on the charts.  These are to be avoided because of the turbulent water swirling in all different directions.  They are well marked on the charts so good passage planning is essential.

At long last we have run into another sailing boat that is going in the same direction as ourselves.  We met them in Port Colbourne and started the transit of the Welland Locks, when we had the raw water blockage and overheating of the engine,
and had to turn back.  In Quebec we met up with them again.  They have a Tayana 37' called "Auburn Angle".  Beautiful boat built in Taiwan and designed by Bob Perry who created the Valiant and Passport yachts. 

A note on getting medicine in Canada:  ours never arrived!  We were passing by a pharmacy so I decided to go in and ask about getting medicine.  I had an empty container with the Rx number on it.
Yes you can get a refill.  There is a Doctor on call and the pharmacist makes a call and you speak to him and indicate what you need: $64 CAD for paperwork and being a Doctor.  Next comes the refill money:  In this case $140 CAD for a 30 day supply.  And I walked out into old Quebec with a modern man's means of prolonging life.  As I ponder this, at some point in my life, I might boycott the phamaceutical industry:  I'm old enough to die!!

Engine Tachometer is working once again.  I went below and jiggled around some wires on the sending units. Found a loose wire and secured it with electrical tape.  Must have been the right one. 

Friday, August 5, 2011

Quebec

August 4, 2011

The Basin Louise which houses the Port of Quebec Marina is a two part affair:  there is an outer basin and an inner basin.  The inner basin is controlled by a flood gate to compensate for the 18 ft tidal difference.  It's just another lock like so many that we've come through.  The Marina is right in the heart of old Quebec and there is unbelievable artistic activity during the day and night.

Quebec: we're impressed.  The old quarter is so French that you can believe you are walking down an ancient street in the mother country.  Also, the sheer size of the old quarter and its' consistent 17th century architecture put it in a special category not to be rivaled by anything else in North America.  In the panoply of Canadian marvels, this is the "piece de resistance".  To make the whole ambiance more believable, they have local Quebecois roaming the streets in period costume.  Everywhere there is artistic activity of one kind or another.  Everywhere we are reminded of the beautiful French villages we passed through on our motorcycles back in the late 60's.  At that time we were travelling with a dear friend, Ken Hebson.  We had started in Barcelona, Spain and  heading to Istanbul,Turkey.  We had a 250 cc BMW and he had 250 cc Chechloslovokian  bike.  An amazing trip and another story somewhere in time.

I looked at the chart and planned the next leg from Quebec to Malbaie: 70 nm.  Also, I noted that we still have 1200 miles to go to make Bar Harbor, ME.  There just isn't much we can do in night sailing with the tides against us.  We have to work with them and enjoy a 3-4 kt favorable current or stand still or be set back if we try to sail against them.  If we motor against a 4 kt ebb, maybe, we can make 3 kts.  This will change once we reach the Eastern End of the Gaspe Pennisula.  There is a favorable 2 kt current running along the coast in an Easterly/Southerly direction.  The main effect of Tides will start to diminish and we can sail day and night.

There can be Wx delays from here on out:  strong NE'ly wind and fog at Tadoussac, an occassional gale warning.  Additionally, we have to plan the route to avoid the main shipping lanes.  Fishing boats will become a significant consideration as we cross over to the Southern shore of the Gaspe pennisula.  Prudence and patience and route planning  will see us through. 

Trois Riviere to Montreal

July 3, 2011

We left the marina this morning at 0900 hrs.  The directions for working the tide stated 8 hrs before low tide at Quebec.  The directions also warn about a NE'ly wind blowing  against an ebb tide.  I listened and then decided that it wouldn't be too bad so we took off.  the first few hours were OK but as the ebb increased and the wind picked to 20 kts a, a nasty 4 ft chop developed.  We motored against this for the next 8 hrs and arrived in Quebec an hour after the ebb and the beginning of  the flood.  The reputation of the Valiant as a sea kindly boat is justified in this case: she took everything thrown at her and still remained relatively dry.  There was a 30 ft Bayfield ahead of us going in the same directions and she was making some acrobatic leaps that were amazing to watch.  At one point, Phyllis, made a comment that she was concerned for them but there was never any danger.  Actually, the Bayfield was motoring a knot faster than us.

We arrived at the Port of Quebec Marina at 1930 hrs: tired and exhausted.  There was a restaurant at the marina so we had "fish & chips" and retired.  I won't be sailing against a NE'ly from here on out because the St Lawrence River starts to widen after Quebec and the currents start to run  at 4 kts on the Ebb.  This would set up a vicious head sea.

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Longueuil/Montreal to Trois Riviere

August 2, 2011

Departed the Marina @ 0736 this morning after a brief but heavy downpour.  The distance from Montreal to Trois Riviere is 70 nm.  We averaged 8 kts coming down River and I was only running the engine at half speed.  We were all fast at 1645 hrs.

It appears that the tachometer on the engine has had enough and refuses to give anymore.  I have a pretty good ear for engine rpms so it shouldn't be a problem.  One of the few concerns that I have is the engine.  It appears to be in excellent condition, however, on a trip of this length where motoring is a priority, if anything should happen to "my precious" it might cause a grounding or a haul out and another winter in the Northern Climes.  Once we make Tadoussac, the St Lawrence River opens up to over 10 miles wide.  This means that we can start sailing again and the engine becomes secondary.

Tomorrow we will navigate the Richelieau Rapids.  This is a short 2 nm run of very swift water with a current of 8 kts on the ebb.  The channel is deep and well marked.  It is not unusual for a yacht to exceed 12+ kts on a full ebb.  Trois Riviere has a tidal range of about one foot.  Quebec, 70 miles downriver, has an 18 ft tidal range.  All departures are now based on "playing the current" to arrive at the best time.  This will continue all the way to Rimouski which is about 270 nm from Trois Riviere.

The "meds" still haven't arrived in Montreal but they are now an after thought.  My top priority is logging miles to get out of the High Latitudes and down the East Coast before the onset of late fall.

Trois Riviere is an industrial town.  It has a paper mill and, those that have lived near one know the smell:  rotten cabbage.  When we came in this evening, the wind was just right to get that familiar oder that we knew so well from Pascagoula, MS when they had a paper mill there.   A short time later the wind changed so we can hardly notice the smell.

Traffic from big ships has increased substantially from Montreal to Trois Riviere.  This will continue as we get closer to the industrial centers.  These big cargo ships can throw quite a wake so we have to have everything secured.

Will be in Quebec tomorrow evening around 1800 hrs.