Beautiful Indonesia

The beautiful sailing vessels are all over in the bay  of Labuan Bajo where we are anchored. They are built in the style of a chinese junk.

I have started these picture from where we now are which  a place called Labuan Bajo. and went backwards.

Beautiful sun setting in Labuan Bajo bay.

Labuan Bajo is pretty modern and has great restaurants.  The Mediterraneo  is one that we have eaten at everyday for 4 days now . It is called Mediterraneo, of course Italian and super super good and free WiFi. which is the reason I am able post so many pictures.The dish is called Tuna Medallion.

This dessert is called Tris Di Pannacotta.

Bringing the cows home.

A visit from the local boys selling coconuts.

A type of fishing boat.

Another beautiful sunset

That's the life.

There are so many different fishing boats in Indonesia.

 We anchored in Ruing and went exploring  the rivers and found people living at the end of these rivers with all kinds of different fishing vessels.

This is one of three rivers that we went down.

At the end of this river we found a small community of fishermen and these two boys  just took of their cloths and jumped in the water and started swimming towards us:. no worries or shyness.

Dugout canoes

Another different kind.

This is the village of  Nangamese

The buildings are all on stilts and falling down, very poor community.

These fishing boats always look like they are ready to fly away.

Now that is a magnificent rooster.

Interesting color on the mountains.

Taking a sunshot.

A gathering of the yachts for sun-downers at a place called Sea World Club Resort.

Sun setting in the bay at Sea World Resort.

When I took this picture it looked interserting but it might no be to you. But I'm  posting it anyway.

This young man who is called Jimmy supplied us with Dieiel , took our garbage and took our laundry to be washed . The laundry came back nice and clean and all folded. If you wanted groceries you gave him a list of things you needed and he would bring it to you. He was very relaiable and very cheap. Very sweet man.

Shopping at the local Market.

Mosque in Lembata.

Lembata

These are the two boys that took of their cloths and jumped in the water to come great us.

Part of the Sea World Club Resort.

MAUROLE TO LABUAN BAJO

September 12, 2014   Friday

The object now is to get to Labuan Bajo which is the central check-in point for Komodo National Park.  We will stop at several anchorages along-the-way for the evening.  When sailing along the coast of Flores, it’s risky to sail at night because of the fish traps one finds.  If you run into one, you can damage the boat or get caught up in a net and have to cut yourself free of it.  We try to find a secure anchorage for the night and they day hop.

We heaved up anchor at Maurole at 0630 hrs and started motoring to Nangekeo (08-31.698’ S x 121-20.159’ E) about 30 nm to the west.  At 1248, we dropped anchor in 16’ water depth with a sand/mud bottom.  There was a large fishing village at some distance from the anchorage but we did not go there.  It was just an overnight stop.

September 13, 2014   Saturday

0742 hrs – get u/w for Riung (08-24.637’ S x 121-01.486’ E) 28 nm from Nangekeo.  We are running short of wind and having to motor, motor sail and then sail when the wind comes up.  Dropped anchor off Riung pier at 1300 hrs.  Put out the dinghy and picked up our sailing friends Ken and Lil Bardon from “Moonbeam” a 52’ Island Packet.  We went into the town of Nangamese which was, essentially, a town with thatched huts built up on poles on tidal mud flats.  There was a diving tour operation and appeared to have a few tourist boats waiting for guests.  There were no supplies to be had other than the bare essentials: cigarettes, gasoline, diesel, some canned goods, soda and water.

There is a good pier off Riung which the fishing vessels tie up to.  There were a few inlets leading into other fishing communities so we went exploring.  No matter how remote, the locals are always welcoming and happy to see you.  There are some beautiful islands off Riung and these would be ideal for anchoring and snorkeling.

September 14, 2014  Sunday

Riung to Teluk Linggeh 36 nm

Heaved up anchor at 0800 hrs and got u/w for Teluk Linggeh (08-17.330’ S x 120-35.895’ E) which is 36 nm to the west.  This was one of our best sailing days: sea breeze out of the NE at 12-15 kts and flat seas.  We zipped along at 6.2 kts under full main and Jib.  Dropped anchor at 1512 hrs in 40’ water depth on a sandy bottom.  Pleasant anchorage.  Children came out on dugout canoes with outriggers and entertained us.  We gave them school supplies.  Later some girls showed up on their outriggers and Phyllis gave them some of her clothes and school supplies.  They sang several songs and a good time was had by all.  There is a book called “101 Best Anchorages” which is composed from yacht reports and this one is in there.

September 15, 2014  Monday

Teluk Linggeh to Gili Bodo  38 nm

0748 hrs – heave up anchor and get u/w for Gili Bodo (08-22.146’ S x 120-00.951’ E).  This is another one of the recommended “101 Best Anchorages”.  One has to be very careful when anchoring so as not to get tangled up in the coral.  There are some sandy patches and we got lucky in finding one of them.  I was a little worried because of the water depth which was 60’ at the drop and then back to 30’ with 165’ of chain out.  Beautiful coral and heard some monkeys on the beach but did not see any.  It’s probably best to stay away from them since they can carry rabies.  This species of monkey are called “macaque”. 

There was a fishing/supply/souvenir boat that came over with some of the local handicraft from? Labuan Bajo?  For us this was the final anchorage before Labuan Bajo (08-30.197’ S x 119-52.493’ E) about 22 nm to the west which is the western end of Flores Island. 

September 16, 2014   Tuesday

0800 hrs – heave up anchor at Gili Bodo   and u/w to Labuan Bajo which is 22 nm to the west.  No wind so we had to motor.  Dropped anchor at 1148 hrs in 56’ water depth on a sandy/muddy bottom with 195’ chain out (08-30.197’ S x 119-52.493’ E).  This is a big anchorage and there are more tourist boats than we have seen anywhere else.  More to come on Labuan Bajo and Komodo National Park.

MAUMERE TO MAROLE

September 12, 2014 Tuesday

We departed Maumere (Nanganio Beach) at 0800 hrs enroute to Marole (08-30.520’ S x 121-47.849’ E) which is 38 nm further west.  The Regency of Marole had invited all participants of the Wonderful Sail2Indonesia Rally for a Gala Dinner and Dancing.  Indonesians love to dance and we have seen this in every event we have been invited to.  It’s going to happen and there is no way to avoid it as they will seek you out and drag you into a communal “round dancing” event.  How can one refuse a beautiful woman? 

The Regency of Maurole set up a tourist booth which offered various paid tours to places of interest.  The most popular was the three lakes tour to the Kelimutu volcano which was about a three hour drive from Maurole.  The three lakes are located within old craters and each lake has a different color.  We didn’t go on this tour due to problems with our toilet.  I spent the day successfully repairing it.

During the evening a buffet style dinner was prepared by the Regency and all the local officials and villagers attended the event.  We escaped back to the boat before the dancing began.  Nothing special in Maurole but they do have large cashew and cacao plantations.  One of the tours went there and reports were favorable.

LARANTUKA TO MAUMERE

September 3, 2014  Wednesday

We heaved up anchor at 1048 hrs which was calculated for exiting Selat Larantuka which has strong tidal streams.  Our first anchorage enroute to Maumere will be Gedong (08-04.759’ S x 122-50.653 S) about 27 nm from Larantuka.  It’s a lovely anchorage with 30’ water depth on a sandy bottom.  There are some fishing boats in the area but we saw no village and no one came out to visit.  Usually, in these anchorages with a nearby village, the children paddle out in their dugout canoes and try to speak a little English.  The common greeting everywhere we have been is “Hello Mister” and sometimes “Mrs”.  The children are beautiful, charming and curious.  These children come from fishing families and will follow in the footsteps of their fathers.  Although very humble and poor by western standards, there is a spontaneity and joyfulness that emanates from them.  Ask them to sing and they will send out a cacophony of sound meant to please.

September 4, 2014 Thursday

0842 - Heave up anchor and get u/w for another anchorage  Watuwulan (08-25.341’ S x 122-35.349’ E) which is 16 nm from Gedong.  It’s another convenient anchorage enroute to Maumere: water depth 25’ on a sandy bottom.  Nothing special but another scenic place.

September 5, 2014 Friday

0924 – heave up anchor and u/w to Maumere (08-38.098’ S x 122-18.519’ E) which is 22 nm from Watuwulan.  The water depth at Maumere is deep at 60’ but the holding is good with sand and mud.  During the day there is an onshore breeze but it fall slick calm at night with a land breeze developing in the morning which is displaced by the sea breeze which kicks in around 1000 hrs.

Maumere is a fairly large city and can provide all the necessities that a cruiser wants or needs.  It’s a rather unattractive city and sprawling along a main road.  During this time of year, which is the dry season, its dusty, dirty and smokey.  The smoke comes from burring off the grasses from previous harvests.  This provides ash which will fertilize the new crops once the rains start at the end of October.  The city has a problem with rubbish collection as do so many places in Indonesia.  There is a good central open market but you have to dismiss the rubbish that surrounds it.  We anchored in front of the “Sea World Resort” which is clean and provides a “Happy Hour” from 1600-1700 hrs.  It’s a pleasant place and welcoming to yachties.  Most of their paying guests appear to be German.

We  were able to reprovision in Maumere in a most convenient manner.  There are boats which come alongside and bring fuel, water, gasoline and any food requested .  Additionally, they take away garbage, will arrange for laundry and anything else needed.  The surcharge for these services is more than reasonable.  Phyllis and I always do our shopping at the local open market.  We enjoy the bargaining and interaction with the local women venders.

LEWOLEBA, LEMBATA TO LARANTUKA

September 1, 2014  Monday

The distance from Lembata to Larantuka is 30 nm in protected waters.  The biggest obstacle is timing the tidal streams between the two places.  Lembata is on Selat Boleng and the setting of the tidal streams from NE > SW and vice versa are calculated using the Meridian Passage of the Moon.  On Selat Larantuka the setting of the tidal streams runs N > S and is calculated using Moon Rise > Moon Set.  There is, at least, a 6 hr difference between the two places in a rather short distance.  The “Southeast Asia Cruising Guide” by Stephen Davies and Elaine Morgan lays this out very clearly and gives a fairly accurate prediction of what is happening and when.

There are eight provincial districts called Regencies on the Island of Flores.  Each one has an elected Regent who manages the bureaucracy and affairs of the district.  The Wonderful Sail2Indonesia 2014 Rally has been invited, welcomed and entertained by these Regents.  Since it is a sponsored Ministry of Tourism and Cultural Development project, we have been royally entertained and taken to traditional villages and ending with a formal dinner hosted by the Regent.  Larantuka  is one of the oldest Regencies on Flores and has an hereditary King.  In modern times, his function is ceremonial and nothing more.  It was settled by the Portugese early in the 17^th century and all the inhabitants were converted to Catholicism.  Later on the Dutch occupied Flores but the religion remained dominantly Catholic with some Protestants and Moslems.  East Nusa Tenggara (Eastern Indonesia) remains predominantly Christian.  Areas that were settled by the Dutch are protestant.  Within these religions runs strain of Animism from ancient times.  The superstitions, offerings and appeasement to unfriendly spirits and totemic poles decorating the traditional meeting house are endemic within their system of religious belief.

We dropped anchor in Larantuka harbor at 1430 hrs in position (08-20.651’ S x 122-59.313 E) in 57’ water depth on a sand/mud bottom.  The Regent and his beautiful wife arranged a formal dinner for the five yachts that chose to be there.  They sent out a launch to pick us up and take us to the Regency.  It was formally decorated with white and red table cloths and all the chairs were dressed in red and white.  Upon arrival, the traditional welcoming ceremony with a vine blocking the way, and warriors and villagers behind, arak (local whiskey), betel nut and tobacco offered, prayers offered to the ancestors.  Our representative from the Regency requests that we be allowed to enter which is granted after the offerings and we are danced into the reception center.  Phyllis and I are chosen to set at the Regent’s table with the King and all the other administrators.  There are welcoming speeches, formal dinner and dancing with music from a live band.  Much of the music is Country Western inspired.  The Regent sang “Sailing” by Steven Bishop.  This was a great party for only fourteen sailors.  They went all out with warmth and hospitality.

The following day, once again, we were picked up at 0730 hrs, with launch and bussed off to several traditional villages.  All of the crafts: Ikat, wood carving, dancing, grinding corn into a grist and popping corn were demonstrated.  It was a great tour given by a very friendly Regency.  This part of Flores is more remote and doesn’t have many tourists visiting so they are elated to see yachts and tourists choosing to visit their lovely villages.

I can’t imagine that any Regency can top the hospitality of Lembata and Larantuka.  As we move further west, tourism will increase until we reach Labuan Bajo (08-30.197’ S x 119-52.493’ E) which is the main check-in center for visiting the Komodo National Park.

Cairns Au to Indonesia

Well I have finally got some good Internet connection and long over due since we left Au. We are now in Indonesia and have been here for at least a month and a half. So I have a lot of catching up. So here goes.

Add caption

Add caption

KALABAHI, ALOR TO LEMBATA, FLORES

August 26, 2014 Tuesday

We heaved up anchor at Kalabahi (08-13.444 S x 124-30.237) at 1000 hrs for Lembata on the island of Flores (08-22.140’ S 123-24.581’ E).  The distance is 78 nm and the reason for the late start is to time the tidal stream at the north end of Selat Pantar (Pantar Strait).  These tidal streams can be very strong and run 9 kts at spring tides so careful attention has to be given to entering or exiting any strait.  If possible, one should not enter any of these strait when there is a strong wind against the prevailing tidal stream.  It’s doable but conditions will be rough.  We were able to sail most of the way with light SE’ly winds but fell becalmed at 0448 on the following day.  It worked out OK because we were waiting for first light and a favorable current to enter Selat Boleng from the North.  Lying ahull, I was able to determine that we had a favorable current that was setting from NE to SW in the strait.  We started in at 0820 on August 27^th (our wedding anniversary) and dropped anchor off Lembata, at 1030, in position 08-22.147’ S x 123-24.605’ E in 28 ft water depth with 120 ft of chain out on a sandy bottom.  This anchorage becomes troubled when there is a S’ly setting current going against a S’ly wind.  It happens once daily and lasts about 3 hrs when all the anchored boats are doing the “current dance” and swing around 180 degrees.  The holding is good so we didn’t observe anyone dragging.

The events planned by the Lembata Regency and Ministry of Tourism and Culture were outstanding.  We were formally greeted by the tourist bureau and arrangements were made for any supplies needed: diesel, gasoline, water, etc.  The following day, we were taken to a very traditional village named Hadekawa where a formal welcoming ceremony was performed for entering the village.  I was delegated the honor of representing the “Wonderful Sail2Indonesia” participants.  There is a formal gate to the village with a green vine blocking the  way.  On the village side are the tribal chief and elders with warriors wielding spears, machetes and swords and the welcoming dancers and greeters.  On our side, our representative calls out to the village chief that we request permission to enter the village.  At this point, the village chief pours some coconut wine from a bamboo receptacle into a coconut bowl and then offers some to all the ancesters by pouring a little on the ground and requesting that they allow us to pass unmolested.  This being done, I was presented with a machete to cut the blocking green vine.  Once cut there is aloud acclimation of joy from the villagers and Phyllis and myself are given honorary status within the village and draped with a beautiful
Ikat scarf.  We are presented with a bowl of coconut wine, betel nut and tobacco.  This is traditional, as we will learn, in all the village ceremonies.  If one does not want to eat the betel nut or smoke the tobacco, it is acceptable to touch the ceremonial box that contains them as a matter of respect.  We are then danced into the village by the local young Indonesian girls with warriors dancing ahead with spears and swords.

Once inside the village, there is a special tent set up for us.  There is more dancing, warrior displays and then come speeches from our Indonesian hosts and myself as honored guest.  After all this, traditional food is served in a buffet style.  The selections are: fish, chicken, cassava, greens, fried bananas, sea snails in ceviche, limpets, several kinds of rice prepared in different ways and sambal ( a fiery hot sauce).  After this, there is dancing in which everyone participates.  There is no escaping because they seek you out!  Indonesians love to dance with their hosts.

We were celebrating the “Festival of Nuhanera” so there were rowing competitions and then we all boarded the local Indonesian boats and motored off to another village called Dikesare which was far across the bay and took about 2 hours to get there.  We’re talking remote here.  As we approached the village, there were warriors from that village dancing on the welcoming boats with spears and swords.  Once again, we are danced into the village with all the traditional welcoming ceremonies: cut the vine, eat betel nut, smoke tobacco.

The day ended with more food, dancing and singing.  Since it was such a long boat ride, we were taken back to Lewoleba by car.  It would be hard to describe what we went through as a road since it was more of a pot-holed dirt path.  It took us about two hours to get back.

The following day (August 30^th) we were taken from Lewoleba to Wolor Pass Hill Top for a sunset ceremony.  We were entertained by 100 students from the Elementary School dancing and singing and then – you guessed it – everyone is going to participate in the local “round dance”.  This dance goes on forever and the animation increases with time.  Everyone is holding hands and dancing around and around while women within the group are chanting out song with men replying and rallying on the group.  About the time you are ready to drop, it miraculously ends but that is not the end for there will be more!  Young green drinking milk coconuts were served up.  There were several ladies selling vegetables from their farm and traditional “Ikat”.  The national passion for photo taking was everywhere.  They will grab hold of you and plead to have their photo taken.  Truly, these Florenses are a charming people to be around.

The day ended with a formal dinner given by the Regent at Lewoleba, speeches, dancing and general merry making.

August 31^st

There were two options on this day.  Get up at 0100 hrs in the morning and trek four hours up to Ile Lewotolok Vocano for a sunrise ceremony or go to Lamalera which is a traditional whaling village.  We opted for the whaling village.  Once again, the roads are in a deplorable condition and most parts of your body will hurt by the time you get there, not to mention coming back.

Lamalera is, perhaps, the last traditional whaling village left in the world.  They still use palm leaf sails and bamboo harpoons.  There are no engines.  When we got there, they had taken four whales about 12 days before and the village was strung out in whale blubber, meat and some turtle all drying in the sun.  Under the whale blubber, they put pieces of galvanized tin that drains into a receptacle to catch the oil.  The oil is used for everything from cooking to lighting lamps and medicinal purposes.  The harpooners actually jump from the bowsprit of the boat, with bamboo poles armed with a homemade steel harpoon that detaches from the pole!  This recalls a scene of Ahab from Moby Dick!  The women all weave “Ikat”.  There is no other income or resource in this village.  It would be hard to begrudge these whalers from the only resource they have had for centuries.

We returned to Lewoleba and arrived in the evening.  It was a long day and we looked forward to going back to the boat for some rest.

On Monday, September 1, 2014 we prepared to get U/W for Larantuka (08-20.651’ S x 122-59.313’ E) which is only 30 nm to the west via Selat Solor.  Another Gala Event and Dinner was to await us.

KISAR ISLAND TO KALABAHI, ALOR

August 18, 2014  Monday

The distance from Kisar (08-05.121 S x 127-08.796) to Kalabahi, Alor (08-13.428 S x 124-30.224 E) is about 195 nm when sailing to the South of Alor Island.  A  route to the North of Alor is possible and shorter but has tidal rips and contrary currents.  Most of the boats in our fleet sailed the northern route and found little wind and some contrary currents.  The advantage of the northern route is that there are anchorages along the way.  The winds are starting to become lighter and I thought that the southern passage would give better winds because they aren’t obstructed by the high mountains of Alor.

We heaved up anchor at 1530 hrs with the idea of sailing to Labuan Air Panas (07-51.177 S x 125-49.59 E) on the island of Wetar.  There are hot springs there and the anchorage is, reportedly, quite pleasant.  The distance is about 95 nm so  that is why we chose to leave later in the afternoon for an overnight sail and morning arrival.  The winds were out of the SE at 10-15 kts and the sailing was beautiful.  In the end we decided to skip the hot springs and sail on to Kalabahi, Alor.  The winds became lighter in the afternoon and at 1436 hrs we were becalmed so we took in the jib and lay ahull.  There was no swell so it was pleasant.  Two small whales sounded near the boat.  For the first time in my experience, I observed the physical movement of tidal water approaching from the south.  At first, I thought it was a pool of wind approaching since it had sound and white waves.  As it passed under us, there was quite a bit of turbulence and movement and then it continued toward the southern coast of Alor.  Later on another wave came by with the same phenomena.

By 1606 hrs, I decided to start motoring closer to the Southern coast of Alor to see if I could find some wind.  Also,  I wanted to arrive at the entrance to Selat Pantar (Pantar Strait) at first light to catch a favorable current going North.  We have now entered a part of Indonesia where there are fierce tide rips, overfalls and currents that can run up to 9 kts on Spring tides.  The direction of the current has to be timed and taken advantage of or one could get set back and it could take hours to make the destination.

We arrived off the southern end of Selat Pantar (08-29.4’ S x 124-23..4 E) at 0515.  We had one and one half hours until first light so  we lay a hull at the strait entrance.  I was able to observe that we were getting set North into the strait which was just what I wanted.  At 0645, I started motoring up the strait to Kalabahi, Alor.  The tidal stream and movement of water was impressive.  We managed to make 8 kts at times but a few miles before the turn off into Kalabahi Bay (Teluk Tebola) we caught the beginning of the South going current and slowed down to three knots.  As soon as we turned into Kalabahi Bay at 0906 we picked up a favorable current running up the bay.  The bay runs almost 8 nm in a NE/SW direction.  It’s a scenic bay with mountains that come right down to the shoreline.  There are many villages along the bay and we are starting to see the famous bamboo fishing traps that line the waterways.  Essentially, they are bamboo platforms with a small hut on them: some are quite large (30’ x 30’).  It is dangerous to run at night in waters where they exist.  I usually stay 3-4 nm offshore to avoid them.  The radar can, usually,  pick them up on a 1-1/2 – 3 nm scale but nothing is certain.  The small  Indonesian fishing boats working bays usually have some kind of flashing strobe light for themselves and their nets.

At 1000 hrs we dropped anchor in a small bay (08-13.423’ S x 124-30.233’ E) just off the main shipping channel.  The anchoring depths are deep in many of the anchorages: 60’ or more.  I only carry 230’ of 5/16” chain so, many times I can’t put out the required scope: minimum 3:1 and preferably 5:1.  The saving grace is that the wind falls flat calm during the evening so there is almost no movement in the anchorages.  The sea breeze in Kalabahi starts around 0930 hour in the morning and lasts until 1500-1600 in the afternoon.  The anchorage we were in has several fresh water springs emanating from the surrounding mountains.  We used the water to wash down the boat and our hair.  I think it is potable but would not use it without a little bleach.  Many Indonesians drink bottled water and there are many filtration places selling water in 5 gal bottles.  Garbage and rubbish collection is a problem so it is littered about everywhere including the sea.

We had no special events in Kalabahi but were able to resupply and take care of other business.  The internet was so slow and unreliable that I wasn’t able to send email or post anything on the blog.  Alor is not a big island, however, it has many different ethnic groups and dialects.  Each group is extremely proud of its tradition and ancestry.  If former times there was warfare amongst the different villages and the taking of human heads was not uncommon.

We are now in a part of Indonesia where “Ikat” weaving is done by many of the married women.  This form of weaving is done on a “back strap loom”.  The women tie their backs to the loom frame and then set up the patterns that are unique to each village, tribe or clan.  The best “Ikat” is made with hand-spun thread and the dyes are made with bark, roots and leaves.  Motifs include animals, people and figurative totemic objects.  If natural dyes are used, the colors are more subdued but, nowadays, marvelous weavings are made using imported dyes and threads.  I have been told that the very best “Ikat” is woven in East Nusa Tengarra which is the region we are in.

Other than big Christian churches and mosques, Kalabahi doesn’t have too much to offer.  Most of the older traditional ways are rapidly disappearing and modern music, cell phones and big boom boxes dominate the air waves.  A small “bemo” (taxi bus) will have eight 10” speakers under the seats and powered on high: a pair of Bose noise cancelling headphones would be ideal.  There is a national obsession with taking photos with foreigners and  themselves.  They are more than happy to pose and have their picture taken.  Truly, these Indonesians are some of the most friendly, generous and warm hearted people one in likely to encounter on the road of life.  They have little but what joy and exuberance comes from them.

We will be in Kalabahi until August 26^th and then it’s off to Lembata (08-22.147 S x 123-24.581 E).

ROMANG ISLAND TO KISAR

August 16, 2014    Saturday

We heaved up anchor at 0930 hrs and u/w to Kisar (08-05.116’ S x 127-08.796’ E) which is about 35 nm to the SSW of Romang.  This would be sailing close-hauled or hard on the wind.  You’re beating and banging into the seas and, occasionally, taking one aboard.  Heeled over on the port tack at 12 degrees and making 6.5 kts, it’s exciting but you don’t want it to last too long!

As we approached Kisar at about 10 nm the wind veered into the South which made it impossible to fetch up the island without tacking.  This would have meant standing off the island all night until daylight which I didn’t want to do because there was going to be Independence Day celebrations the following day.  Therefore, I decided to motor the thirteen miles into the anchorage.  It started off OK but the engine sprang a leak at the exhaust bend pipe that goes into the heat exchanger.  It took awhile but I put a temporary patch on it using Recue Tape which is self fusing – Don’t go on a boat without it!  Then I had to run slowly to make sure all was well.  We didn’t arrive in the anchorage until dark and would not have been able to anchor if it hadn’t been for our German friends on “Elonesa” that came out in their dinghy and guided us in.  The brotherhood of the sea is alive and well.

August 17, 2014  Sunday

This is “Independence Day”.  It is one of the biggest celebrations of the year.  Kisar has about 17,000 inhabitants and all attended this affair.  Unbeknown to us, we were treated as guests of honor.  We were seated in the shade in the front row with all the officials.  There was traditional dancing and a warrior display of swords and spears in traditional costumes: a gala affair.  Many of the officials, dancers, warriors and children wanted to take their pictures with us.  Once again, it’s unusual for us to be treated in this manner.  These people ooze sweetness and hospitality.

Kisar is one of the first towns we have been in, since we left Saumlaki, where there is a market to buy fresh fruit and vegetables.  The harbormaster in Tombra arranged for us to buy bananas, papaya and spinach in limited quantities.  In Romang, we negotiated for a pomelo but that was it.

The anchorage in Kisar is coral and sand.  It’s on a shelving slope that is not quite so steep as in Leti and Romang.

On August 18^th, we will depart Kisar and set sail for Wetar and Alor.

LETI TO ROMANG ISLAND

The sailing distance from Leti to Romang (07-35.1 S x 127-22.0’ E) is about 43 nm.  It’s an easy broad reaching sail with the wind on the port quarter.  We can average 6 kts using only a poled-out 120% genoa without the mainsail.  This makes it very easy to change tacks.  We were wrapped around some coral in Tombra so it took us an hour to free ourselves and didn’t get underway until 1000 hrs.  We anchored in a bay on the western side of Romang at 1800 hrs.  In the last of a beautiful sunset, one could see a small village and church that started at the seashore and ascended to the top of a very steep hill.  As we were to find out the following day, this village is protestant.  These islands are part of the famous Banda Islands that were sought after and occupied by the Portugese, English, and Dutch.  They produce cloves and nutmeg, and other spices.

On Friday, August 15 we got a tour of the one street town.  All along the street people were preparing and drying cloves.  These are gathered in the jungle forest and mountains about 5 km from the village.  Apparently, the harvesting of cloves is labor intensive and difficult.  We had a lady guide that worked for one of the mineral exploration companies and spoke English.  There was very little to buy in the village and the locals were busy preparing or “Independence Day”.  Once again, there was a large church that the locals had spent 15 years building with very limited funds.  We found out that there is a high incidence of malaria on this island.  We made a donation to the church for mosquito netting for the poor that couldn’t afford it.  It’s a clean village with a certain amount of charm but a little more reserved that Tombra.

They make a palm wine which is interesting but isn’t going to win any rewards.  The best I can find out is that it is made from fermented hearts of palm, cloves, cinnamon and tea.  It has some resemblance to a mild sweet sherry.  Those that have over-indulged have suffered!!

In every Indonesian harbor with a population center, there is a harbormaster.  It is the responsibility of the yachts to bring in their “clearance papers” from the last port of call and receive a new one to the next port of call.  There is no charge for this service.  It’s one of the many bureaucratic procedures that exist here.  The harbormaster of Romang wanted to charge an exorbitant amount for “clearance papers” to the next port.  No one argued, we just picked up anchor and left the following day.

Romang is a wind factory!  It generates katabatic winds funneling down the hill that reach 35 kts.  This is never pleasant when you’re anchored in coral and hear the grinding and crunching.  Also, Romang is another one of those deep water anchorages.  We dropped anchor on a 20’ patch and ended up with 115’ of water under the keel.  You need a prayerful attitude that the anchor won’t slide off that 20’ patch: it didn’t.

SAUMLAKI, INDONESIA TO LETI ISLAND

August 8, 2014     Friday

Rain squalls have been on the menu for the last few days.  For the most part they are brief but pack wind and some of them are quite heavy.  This will become more frequent as we sail west.

Heaved up anchor at 1015 hrs and departed for Pulau Moa (08-08.4’ S x 128-03.9’ E) :  230 nm.  Wind is fresh out of the ESE at 25 kts with higher gust in rain squalls but the bay has very little swell.  Our plan for the first part of this trip is to anchor at Selaru Island (08-07.7’ S x 130-58.6’ E) which is a very well protected anchorage about 27 nm SW of Saumlaki.  There are a few islands in between so even with the fresh Trade Winds there isn’t much sea.  We notice a few villages on some of the islands and have a very nice sail with frequent rain squalls.  A few miles from the anchorage entrance, we get shut a shut out rain squall and winds gusting to 30+ kts but I’m reefed in so, as the Aussies say, “no worries”.

Dropped anchor at Labhuan Olendir (08-07.7’ S x 130-58.6’ E) off the island of Selaru at 1500 hrs.  It’s a beautifully well protected anchorage and an ideal stop to break up the voyage to Moa.  There are 11 yachts anchored here waiting on the Wx to improve over the next few days.

August 10, 2014  Sunday

We heaved up anchor at 0648 hrs this morning.  The winds have eased off and are blowing 15-20 kts out of the SE.  Since we will running downwind, we’ll just pole out our 120% genoa and keep the mainsail tucked away.  The distance from Selaru to Moa is 194 nm.  We’ll make this in one hop and sail all night.  There will be a full moon and winds should be in the 15 kt  category.

August 11, 2014   Monday

Reports from the Moa anchorage are not favorable: not well protected, rolly, deep and have to anchor very close to the coral reef.  Some of the vessels have moved over to the island of Leti which is only 10 nm across the Selat Moa (Moa Strait).  We have decided to go there as reports are favorable.

1830 hrs – dropped anchor in 30’ water depth with 180’ chain out in a fast shelving coral anchorage (08-09.760’ S x 127-39.676 E).  It appears that, in many of these anchorages , one has to drop the anchor very close to the reef and fall back into deep water.  I don’t like anchoring in coral but there is no other choice.  Most importantly, the anchorage is quiet and not rolly.  We are totally dependent on the prevailing Trade Winds blowing from the SE.  If these winds were to change to an onshore wind we would all be on to the reef!!  The Trades are so constant during the SE Monsoon season that this rarely happens without an advanced Wx warning.  Most vessels download GRIB Files from the internet and pass the info along.  These are wind and wave maps that predict what will be happening with the wind over a 3-5 day period.  Any significant wind change will be noted so that everyone can seek a safe anchorage, if available.

The island of LETI and the village of Tombra.  Our reception here has been one of friendliness and hospitality.  The harbormaster, whose name is ITA, is a recently married young women who is sweetness in itself.  She invited all the yachts anchored off the village to come to the harbormaster’s office for a traditional meal.  The meal was stewed fish, fried fish, vegetables, cassava, rice and sambal.  The sambal is a very hot sauce made from chilies:  I love it!

Walking through the village, we had at least 50 children following us.  They were as fascinated with the yachties as we were with them.  Indonesians love to have their photos taken with visitors.  They have cell phones with cameras and are delighted to snap photos of and with us.  The children were shouting “EEEECO” and when I repeated the word they all laughed and cried out “EEECO”.  Later, the harbormaster told me that this means “follow”.  I felt like the pied piper leading

all the children to the sea to check on the incoming tide and dinghy position.

One of the young men, who spoke a little English, gave us a tour of the village and we stopped at all his relative’s houses for an introduction and greeting.  We ended up at his house to meet his wife and  drink these wonderful young green coconuts.  The inhabitants of the Eastern Tanimbar Islands are Christians.  In this village there was a large Catholic church called “Elohim Tombra”.  It was nicely done in a simple way with tiles and painted stained glass. 

The genuine hospitality and friendliness of these villagers is very new to us.  It appears that they truly enjoy seeing foreigners in their villages.  About the only way to get to some of these villages is with a boat or ferry; most don’t have airports.  Communications via internet is, for the most part,­ non-existent.  It will take me some time to get this posted.

THURSDAY ISLAND, AU TO SAUMLAKI, INDONESIA

July 28, 2014       Monday

We heaved up anchor at 1118 hrs from our Horn Is anchorage and set sail for Saumlaki, Indonesia (07-58.7’ S x 131-17.4’ E) 670 nm.  The Torres Straits are, reputedly, one of the windiest places in the world.  The SE Trade Winds blow 15-25 kts throughout the day and when they are really developed reach 30-35 kts for a few days.  During the evening, the winds die down around the islands but continue to blow offshore.  The tides and currents in this area are some of the most complex to be found anywhere.  It can be flooding on one side of an island and ebbing on the other.  Currents in the passages between some islands reach 8 kts.  Careful calculation has to be made before heading out to the East or West.  When we departed Horn Is., heading West, our greatest thrill was the passage between Thursday Is. And Prince of Wales Is.  We reached a SOG (speed-over-ground) of 11.4 kts!!, however, our speed through the water was only 6 kts.  That’s 5.2 kts current in the passage between islands.  It will, most likely, be our all-time speed record.

The rhumb line to Saumlaki from Thursday Is. Is 283T.  The Trade Winds blow between SSE- ESE (135T) most of the time.  What this means is that we are on the Port Tack (sails carried on the Stbd. Side) or, if running downwind “Goose Winged”, the mainsail is carried on the lee side and the jib is poled out on the windward side.  I’m not too fond of this method of sailing downwind because the mainsail suffers some chaffing as a result of the boom being so far out that the mainsail lays up against the lee shrouds and spreaders.  For me, the better option is to use twin headsails.  This eliminates wear and tear on the mainsail and is the ideal way to sail downwind.  At the moment, we don’t have twin headsails so I am sailing with the “jib”.  It makes it easy to change tacks and allows us to reef in or out on the roller furling.  In Thailand, we will set up the twin headsail system for the South African voyage.  In the meantime, this system gives us an average of 6.5 kts in 20-25 kt Trade Wind conditions.

For the first several hours out of Thursday Is heading West, the sailing conditions are perfect: favorable current, wind and no swell.  As the islands disappear, the wind and swell increase.  Since the Trade Winds are blowing from the SE (135 deg.) and our rhumb line is 283 deg. This puts the wind and seas on our port quarter and causes the boat to corkscrew around.  It’s not a comfortable angle to the Trade Wind: a bit like being in a washing machine.  Still, the Valiant 40 is a very sea kindly yacht and handles all this with ease.  The Trades start to blow 25 kts gusting 30 and the seas build up to 10 ft.  There is a height difference between the Coral Sea to the East and the Arrafura Sea to the West.   When the tide ebbs West, it sets into the  Trade Wind seas and causes them to become very steep.  The 8 ft sea becomes 10 ft and breaks with a small crest.  During the flood setting East with the Trade Wind seas things settle down and the seas drop remarkably.  Since the Tides in this part of the Arrafura Sea are diurnal, it happens twice daily. The last two days, the seas dropped down to the 6 ft range with winds in the 15-20 kt category.  The last day I reefed in the headsail to make only 4.5 kts for a daylight entry into Saumlaki Bay.    We arrived in Saumlaki at 0830hrs on 2 Aug 2014 after 5 days of passage time with an average of 5.7 kts for the trip. 

The Sail2Indonesia Rally, as well as others originating from Darwin, AU has backing from the Indonesian Ministry of Tourism.  The meaning of all this came to fruition as we were invited to a formal event and dinner sponsored by the local officials of Saumlaki and the providence.  They were very warm, friendly and welcoming.  They presented us with a beautifully woven “ikat” scarf representing the Tanimbar Islands of which Saumlaki is one of the main centers.  There was food, singing and dancing with all the Indonesians.  It was a very touching affair.  Nowhere that we have ever been sailing has a community shown such friendliness.  Everywhere one walks in Saumlaki, the locals call out “Hello Mister” and want to talk a little.  They are delighted if you greet them in Indonesian and try to say a few words.  They love to have their photos taken!!  This part of Indonesia is mostly Christian:  Catholic and Protestant.  Islam is represented is the main center of Saumlaki and one hears that hauntingly beautiful calling of the faithful to prayer.  There is nothing outstanding in the city and it has no great beauty but most of the things a cruiser needs can be found here: fruit, vegetables, canned goods and fresh fish.  Next to Australia, it is remarkably cheap.  We used the hotel “Harapan Indah” as a base to establish communications with our Indonesian representatives.  Since it is right on the water, we were able to use our dinghys to motor and tie up.  The hotel is ideal for just about everything.  They have WiFi but we’re talking slow and unreliable here.  It took us two days to receive email and another to get our first message out.  Finally, we bought a Simm Card for our cell phone and went to the Telecomsel office to have the internet activated on it.:  still slow and unreliable at 2G.  Anyway, the hotel serves drinks and Bintang beer in pint bottles along with food.  It has a wonderful ambiance with big tables scattered throughout a tropical garden setting.  Very nice place to relax with no pressure to buy anything.

During our stay, there was an organized tour in which we were escorted by a police car to a remote village called Tumbur on the Eastern side of Yamdena (name of the island in which Saumlaki is the biggest city).  This village hadn’t seen tourists in over three years so it was an exciting event for them.  They greeted us at the entrance to the village with singing and dancing and took our hands in a joyous fashion to lead us to the main square of the small town.  Here we were greeted, welcomed and blessed by the village chief (kampong):   Each person was anointed with water from a coconut bowl.  Then the local officials greeted us and a lunch was served.  Afterwards, there was dancing in the square with the locals.  The end of each event that we have been at, so far, ends in dancing with the locals.  It’s a very happy and non-formal affair.  You can’t avoid the dancing because they seek you out and you have to participate. 

There was a demonstration of “Ikat” weaving using a back loom.  Essentially, it is a small loom whose power is provided by a support going around the weaver’s back.  Traditionally, all the threads are dyed using natural sources: tree bark, flowers, roots etc.  The patterns vary but each weaver has her own style and expertise.  This type of labor intensive, time consuming work can only exist is small  villages where there are no opportunities for other work.  Some of the “Ikat” weavings are elaborate and take many months to complete.  The ones we saw in the village were simple and for sale to tourists.  The Tanimbar Islands grow ebony and there were many carvings of wooden ships that looked like the first square rigged ships that the Portugese, Dutch and English sailed in when they first landed in the Tannibars.  In my opinion, they weren’t very well crafted but many of the yachties were buying them.

The day ended with the police escort back to Saumlaki with a stop at one of the Catholic churches that has a rather unusual “stone boat” motif with a very poorly done painting above it depicting two missionaries in a boat.  One is holding a cross in front of him with eyes so wide open in awe that you can only imagine that he is thinking “How did I get myself in this situation?”  The inside of the church had painted glass images of Jesus and Saints with varying degrees of artistic skill but, whoever did the angles above the alter, had none at all.  Still, it represents what is available locally and has its own merit.

I went to a dentist to have a tooth looked at and found out that they have no x-ray machines in the city or at the hospital.  Additionally, I asked for a prescription for 500 mg Amoxcicillin and was told that it is not available.  The only thing the dentist could tell me was that he filling was intact and he could see no crack!  Fortunately, we have Amoxicillian aboard and the other yachts in our group are carrying complete pharmacies.  There are advantages sailing with a group!

So much for Saumlaki – a grimy port city with a rubbish disposal problem but some of the most friendly, hospitable people we have met.  The anchorage depths here are deep and average 65 ft but the holding is good in sand and mud.  The wind blows strongly at 20-25 kts but dies down at night.  During the last few days a S’ly swell developed and made it rolly.  We’re looking forward to leaving.

Our next destination is the island of Moa (08-08.4’ S x 128-03.9’ E) which is 230 nm to the West.  We’ll make a few anchorage stops along the way.