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| Kuna Yala Cayuca (dugout canoe used for fishing |
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| Karin and I |
Saturday, February 25, 2012
WEST LEMMON CAYS TO NONOMULO ANCHORAGE IN THE CARTI ISLANDS
I had no success in connecting to the internet at the German "Yogi's" place in the the West Lemmon Cays. Everyone else seemed to get a connection but for us it was impossible. I believe that this is due to the ethernet cable that was used for the connection. My navigation laptop uses the ethernet connection for the our MaxSea navigation program and the AIS (automatic identification system). Anyway, I didn't get internet and lost my ability to see AIS targets in the MaxSea Navigation Program. It was a lose-lose situation and I regretted trying to connect the navigation laptop to Yogi's internet. We were not able to get everything right until we contacted a Furuno specialist in the States after arriving in Colon. If it hadn't been for John (our Canadian sailing friend), I don't think I could have solved the problem.
Anyway, we weighed anchor on January 21, 2012 and motored over to Nonomulu (9-27.6 N 78-59.1 W) which is about 6 nm to the South. Our Canadian friends, John & Karin, were flying in from Ft. Lauderdale to Panama City and then taking the 4 x 4 Jeep for Tocumen airport outside Panama City to the last stop on the Kuna Yala mainland. Nonomulu is a small island just a stones throw off the mainland and makes for an excellent anchorage and pickup for passengers coming or returning. There is a "panga" (water taxi) that brings people out to the anchorage.
John and Karin arrived on Sunday Jan. 22nd around 0830 hrs in the morning. We were surprised that they got there so quickly, however we found out that they left Tocumen airport at 0530 hrs in the morning. We were delighted to see them. They are both experienced yachtsmen and navigators so this would make it possible to work our way through the reefs into many beautiful anchorages. I had prepared an itinerary for a three week cruise starting in Nonomulu and working our way East and then coming back West and continuing on to Colon via Linton Island and Portobello.
Since John and Karin had arrived so early it was possible to visit a traditional Kuna village about a mile away to the West. We took the dinghy and motored over. As in every Kuna village, the women are selling the traditional "molas" and sundry other handmade items. The homes are thatched huts. There is running water that is piped in from streams on the mainland and fed into tanks that are elevated so that gravity brings water to local watering spots. There is no electricity. The village was called "Acuadup" and is "traditional" in the way they run their affairs. There are several "sailas" (local chiefs and historians of the Kuna culture) and "agars" (interpreters of the "saila's wisdom). Every evening the village gathers in a special hut called the "Congreso" where all the important affairs of the village are discussed. Debates, complaints and grievances are delivered to the "saila" who decides on the course of action to be taken. With permission from the "saila", non-Kunas may attend one of the "congresos". The problem is finding a way back to the yacht after dark in a village with no lights. We did not do this.
We spent a few hours in the village and found the local bakery where they make Kuna Bread. It is a yeast bread that is absolutely delicious. These Kunas are ingenious in the ways that they can produce a delicious bread using the ovens of old home stoves or wood-fired. It all comes out as a delicious bread that every yachtie tries to buy.
We returned to "Solstice" before dark, had a rum punch and enjoyed a great sunset. It was good to have John and Karin aboard.
Anyway, we weighed anchor on January 21, 2012 and motored over to Nonomulu (9-27.6 N 78-59.1 W) which is about 6 nm to the South. Our Canadian friends, John & Karin, were flying in from Ft. Lauderdale to Panama City and then taking the 4 x 4 Jeep for Tocumen airport outside Panama City to the last stop on the Kuna Yala mainland. Nonomulu is a small island just a stones throw off the mainland and makes for an excellent anchorage and pickup for passengers coming or returning. There is a "panga" (water taxi) that brings people out to the anchorage.
John and Karin arrived on Sunday Jan. 22nd around 0830 hrs in the morning. We were surprised that they got there so quickly, however we found out that they left Tocumen airport at 0530 hrs in the morning. We were delighted to see them. They are both experienced yachtsmen and navigators so this would make it possible to work our way through the reefs into many beautiful anchorages. I had prepared an itinerary for a three week cruise starting in Nonomulu and working our way East and then coming back West and continuing on to Colon via Linton Island and Portobello.
Since John and Karin had arrived so early it was possible to visit a traditional Kuna village about a mile away to the West. We took the dinghy and motored over. As in every Kuna village, the women are selling the traditional "molas" and sundry other handmade items. The homes are thatched huts. There is running water that is piped in from streams on the mainland and fed into tanks that are elevated so that gravity brings water to local watering spots. There is no electricity. The village was called "Acuadup" and is "traditional" in the way they run their affairs. There are several "sailas" (local chiefs and historians of the Kuna culture) and "agars" (interpreters of the "saila's wisdom). Every evening the village gathers in a special hut called the "Congreso" where all the important affairs of the village are discussed. Debates, complaints and grievances are delivered to the "saila" who decides on the course of action to be taken. With permission from the "saila", non-Kunas may attend one of the "congresos". The problem is finding a way back to the yacht after dark in a village with no lights. We did not do this.
We spent a few hours in the village and found the local bakery where they make Kuna Bread. It is a yeast bread that is absolutely delicious. These Kunas are ingenious in the ways that they can produce a delicious bread using the ovens of old home stoves or wood-fired. It all comes out as a delicious bread that every yachtie tries to buy.
We returned to "Solstice" before dark, had a rum punch and enjoyed a great sunset. It was good to have John and Karin aboard.
Thursday, February 23, 2012
SAN BLAS: EAST LEMMON CAYS TO THE WEST LEMMON CAYS
Jan 17, 2012
We weighed anchor this morning @ 1115 to move over to the West Lemmon Cays: 4nm. The distances here in the San Blas are all rather small. We had explored all the surrounding islands in the East Lemmon Cays in our dinghy. It's an Avon 10'-2" inflatable with a 8 hp 4 stroke Yamaha outboard. It is doing a great job of getting us around to all the islands within a specific area.
We dropped anchor in the West Lemmon Cays (9-32.9 N x 78-53.7 W) at 1215 hrs. There is a very narrow entrance with "skinny water" going into this area. My depth sounder showed just a little over 7.5 ft: we draw 6ft. Once through the shallow area it gets rather deep in the anchorage area with over 45 ft. There is a German here with his Rotweiller "Samantha". There are several mooring balls and a small bar with internet connections. That is the main attraction in an area that is devoid of internet cafes. There are several islands in this group that have individual Kuna families living on them. Only 50 islands of the 350 in Kuna Yala are inhabited but everyone has an owner/owners. The society is matriachal so land is inherited through the female lineage. Every island has coconut palms and the Kunas gather the fallen nuts every few months. The green drinking coconuts are less popular here that on other Caribbean islands but they can be bought. Most of the commerce is done with dried coconuts and Columbian trading boats.
Every Friday is fresh vegetable day. The Kunas go to Colon and buy produce which they deliver to all the yachts and families anchored or living in the popular areas. Their profit is modest and fair so everyone is buying from them. One can purchase, fresh vegetables, chicken, fish, beer and wine plus sundry other items that are carried out from the mainland. It is the most important day of the week for all the islanders and yachties for fresh food will not be available until the following Friday. There is only one road from Kuna Yala land to Panama City and it goes over mountains and streams. Most of it is paved but some is dirt and becomes impassable during the rainy season. Transportation is done by 4 x4 jeeps and Toyotas. It takes about 3-1/2 hrs to reach the coast of Kuna Yala from Panama City. The immediate off-lying islands are the Carti Islands. Anyone planning to travel by land will use this road to get to or go from the San Blas Islands. It is absolutely amazing that the Kuna's could have negotiated such a magnificent land grant with autonomy from the Panamanian government. There are several history books that describe how this was done. What little I have read is fascinating!
So here we are in the West Lemmon Cays when we receive an email on our internet Sailmail account from our friends John and Karin who have a Tayana 37. We had met them in Port Colburn on Lake Erie and travelled with them from Quebec to Halifax, NS. We met up again in Annapolis, MD, Beaufort, NC and Ft. Lauderdale, FL. The email says that they would like to come to Panama to be our line handlers through the Panama Canal. Since we knew that they had planned to come to the San Blas Islands, we invitied them to start the trip with us here and see how it goes once we get to Colon and make arrangements for the transit. They accept and will travel by land from Panama City to the Carti Islands. Phyllis and I will pick them up at a designated anchorage called Nonomulu (9-27.6 N x 78-59.1 W) which is just a stone's throw off the mainland. In the meantime, we are exploring the immediate islands of the West Lemmon group.
We weighed anchor this morning @ 1115 to move over to the West Lemmon Cays: 4nm. The distances here in the San Blas are all rather small. We had explored all the surrounding islands in the East Lemmon Cays in our dinghy. It's an Avon 10'-2" inflatable with a 8 hp 4 stroke Yamaha outboard. It is doing a great job of getting us around to all the islands within a specific area.
We dropped anchor in the West Lemmon Cays (9-32.9 N x 78-53.7 W) at 1215 hrs. There is a very narrow entrance with "skinny water" going into this area. My depth sounder showed just a little over 7.5 ft: we draw 6ft. Once through the shallow area it gets rather deep in the anchorage area with over 45 ft. There is a German here with his Rotweiller "Samantha". There are several mooring balls and a small bar with internet connections. That is the main attraction in an area that is devoid of internet cafes. There are several islands in this group that have individual Kuna families living on them. Only 50 islands of the 350 in Kuna Yala are inhabited but everyone has an owner/owners. The society is matriachal so land is inherited through the female lineage. Every island has coconut palms and the Kunas gather the fallen nuts every few months. The green drinking coconuts are less popular here that on other Caribbean islands but they can be bought. Most of the commerce is done with dried coconuts and Columbian trading boats.
Every Friday is fresh vegetable day. The Kunas go to Colon and buy produce which they deliver to all the yachts and families anchored or living in the popular areas. Their profit is modest and fair so everyone is buying from them. One can purchase, fresh vegetables, chicken, fish, beer and wine plus sundry other items that are carried out from the mainland. It is the most important day of the week for all the islanders and yachties for fresh food will not be available until the following Friday. There is only one road from Kuna Yala land to Panama City and it goes over mountains and streams. Most of it is paved but some is dirt and becomes impassable during the rainy season. Transportation is done by 4 x4 jeeps and Toyotas. It takes about 3-1/2 hrs to reach the coast of Kuna Yala from Panama City. The immediate off-lying islands are the Carti Islands. Anyone planning to travel by land will use this road to get to or go from the San Blas Islands. It is absolutely amazing that the Kuna's could have negotiated such a magnificent land grant with autonomy from the Panamanian government. There are several history books that describe how this was done. What little I have read is fascinating!
So here we are in the West Lemmon Cays when we receive an email on our internet Sailmail account from our friends John and Karin who have a Tayana 37. We had met them in Port Colburn on Lake Erie and travelled with them from Quebec to Halifax, NS. We met up again in Annapolis, MD, Beaufort, NC and Ft. Lauderdale, FL. The email says that they would like to come to Panama to be our line handlers through the Panama Canal. Since we knew that they had planned to come to the San Blas Islands, we invitied them to start the trip with us here and see how it goes once we get to Colon and make arrangements for the transit. They accept and will travel by land from Panama City to the Carti Islands. Phyllis and I will pick them up at a designated anchorage called Nonomulu (9-27.6 N x 78-59.1 W) which is just a stone's throw off the mainland. In the meantime, we are exploring the immediate islands of the West Lemmon group.
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
SAN BLAS: EL PORVENIR TO EAST LEMMON CAYS
January 13, 2012
We woke up this morning quite a bit refreshed after a good night's sleep. Our first destination is the East Lemmon Cays. It is only about 6 nm from El Porvenir so we were in no hurry to get underway. Besides that, it is best to enter reef fringed areas with the sun overhead or behind you. All the islands in the San Blas area are reef fringed. It is amazing to watch big 8-10 ft waves breaking over the reefs and then be inside enjoying calm seas and a great Trade Wind breeze.
We dropped anchor at 1330 hrs between Banedup and Nuinudup islands in 30' of water. The ending "dup" in Kuna means island. this blog will have a lot of "dups". Banedup in one of the few islands that has a Kuna restaurant in traditional manner: thatched hut and bamboo. There were several Panamanian Boy Scout type campers in tents on it. We started to explore some of the other islands in the dinghy. The water is wonderfully clear. A few of the islands had single Kuna families on them attending to the coconuts. These used to be the traditional currency used by the Kunas. Every coconut has an owner so it is forbidden to take them. This would cause hard feelings among the Kunas. One can buy them for $1.00 or less and this makes the Kunas very happy. These Indians are very good business people: they understand capitalism and work it quite efficiently. We will stay here several days getting to know how things work from other yachties.
We woke up this morning quite a bit refreshed after a good night's sleep. Our first destination is the East Lemmon Cays. It is only about 6 nm from El Porvenir so we were in no hurry to get underway. Besides that, it is best to enter reef fringed areas with the sun overhead or behind you. All the islands in the San Blas area are reef fringed. It is amazing to watch big 8-10 ft waves breaking over the reefs and then be inside enjoying calm seas and a great Trade Wind breeze.
We dropped anchor at 1330 hrs between Banedup and Nuinudup islands in 30' of water. The ending "dup" in Kuna means island. this blog will have a lot of "dups". Banedup in one of the few islands that has a Kuna restaurant in traditional manner: thatched hut and bamboo. There were several Panamanian Boy Scout type campers in tents on it. We started to explore some of the other islands in the dinghy. The water is wonderfully clear. A few of the islands had single Kuna families on them attending to the coconuts. These used to be the traditional currency used by the Kunas. Every coconut has an owner so it is forbidden to take them. This would cause hard feelings among the Kunas. One can buy them for $1.00 or less and this makes the Kunas very happy. These Indians are very good business people: they understand capitalism and work it quite efficiently. We will stay here several days getting to know how things work from other yachties.
The computer is at it again messing up my pictures I will try again tomorrow.
The picture to the entrance is missing sorry.
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| East Lemmons Banadup |
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| Our yacht Solstice |
Monday, February 20, 2012
PORT ANTONIO, JAMAICA TO EL PORVENIR, SAN BLAS ISLANDS, PANAMA
Jan 8, 2012
We departed Port Antonio this morning at 0830 hrs bound for El Porvenir, San Blas Islands: 555 nm. the Wx was gorgeous with Trade Winds out of the ENE at 15-18 kts., seas 8' in a long swell. After rounding the Eastern Tip of Jamaica, we set a direct course for El Porvenir. We made one thirty mile tack to clear a shoal area and after that we were able to hold a course of 198 degrees for almost the remainder of the trip. This was an ideal weather window in an unusually boisterous Trade Wind area. We could not have asked for anything better. At times the seas would pickup to 10' swells but they were gentle giants with a long period in between. In big seas what makes the difference between a comfortable ride and a choppy one is the period between swells: the longer the period, the easier the ride.
January 9, 10, 11, 12
The weather is absolutely gorgeous! It's hard to believe that we have chosen an ideal weather window. I have been listening to Chris Parker who is one of the WX gurus for the the Bahamas and Caribbean. He indicated that it would be an ideal time to sail and so it is. We are averaging about 150 nm a day under double reefed mainsail and reefed jib. The wind continues to be out of the ENE at 15-18 kts with a 8-10' swell. This Valiant performs well and is very dry in a seaway. Perhaps that is one of the reasons that it was chosen as "yacht of the decade" in 1995 by Yachting Magazine.
January 12, 2012
At 1048 this morning we dropped anchor @ El Porvenir (9-33.4 N x 78-56.9 W) and cleared Customs and Immigration: very easy process with no bureaucratic hassle. El Porvenir is a small wind swept island with nothing to recommend it other that a check-in port of entry. Our first encounter with the Kuna Indians started in the anchorage when the women paddled out in dugout canoes selling "Molas". I have explained what they are in another post. We needed to catch up on some sleep so we stayed anchored for the night.
We departed Port Antonio this morning at 0830 hrs bound for El Porvenir, San Blas Islands: 555 nm. the Wx was gorgeous with Trade Winds out of the ENE at 15-18 kts., seas 8' in a long swell. After rounding the Eastern Tip of Jamaica, we set a direct course for El Porvenir. We made one thirty mile tack to clear a shoal area and after that we were able to hold a course of 198 degrees for almost the remainder of the trip. This was an ideal weather window in an unusually boisterous Trade Wind area. We could not have asked for anything better. At times the seas would pickup to 10' swells but they were gentle giants with a long period in between. In big seas what makes the difference between a comfortable ride and a choppy one is the period between swells: the longer the period, the easier the ride.
January 9, 10, 11, 12
The weather is absolutely gorgeous! It's hard to believe that we have chosen an ideal weather window. I have been listening to Chris Parker who is one of the WX gurus for the the Bahamas and Caribbean. He indicated that it would be an ideal time to sail and so it is. We are averaging about 150 nm a day under double reefed mainsail and reefed jib. The wind continues to be out of the ENE at 15-18 kts with a 8-10' swell. This Valiant performs well and is very dry in a seaway. Perhaps that is one of the reasons that it was chosen as "yacht of the decade" in 1995 by Yachting Magazine.
January 12, 2012
At 1048 this morning we dropped anchor @ El Porvenir (9-33.4 N x 78-56.9 W) and cleared Customs and Immigration: very easy process with no bureaucratic hassle. El Porvenir is a small wind swept island with nothing to recommend it other that a check-in port of entry. Our first encounter with the Kuna Indians started in the anchorage when the women paddled out in dugout canoes selling "Molas". I have explained what they are in another post. We needed to catch up on some sleep so we stayed anchored for the night.
Sunday, February 19, 2012
UPDATE FOR THE LONG GAP BETWEEN JAN 5 AND FEB 19
There have been no postings since we left Port Antonio, Jamaica for the San Blas Islands because we haven't had internet service. The San Blas Islands are very beautiful but remote and internet is virtually non-existent unless one has a cell phone with internet options. We arrived in El Porvenir, San Blas without knowing how to get a cell phone and internet set up.
Briefly, we had a great sail from Port Antonio to El Porvenir: 555 nm. One could not have asked for better Wx: NE to E Trade Winds 15-18 kts with 8-10 seas. These seas were gentle giants with a long interval between seas. We averaged about 126 nm per day under double reefed mainsail and reefed jib. There were times when we could have set more sail during the day but it is necessary to reef down at night. With big seas running it was safer to run with a reefed configuration instead of trying to gain extra speed with a full sail.
The San Blas Islands are absolutely beautiful and the Kuna Indians are very friendly and welcoming to tourists. Most are visiting yachts and the Kuna Indians are good businessmen as well as being great sailors and fishermen. The islands are picture perfect postcards of what the South Pacific Islands must look like. The only difference is that they aren't volcanic in origin with a lagoon but reefed fringed with breaks between the reef and islands. Many of the Kuna Indians have chosen to live a very simple life with dugout canoes which they call "Cayucos". They sail and paddle these cayucos from the islands to the mainland where they have small farm plots to raise vegetables and fruits. They leave early in the morning and return in the afternoon. There is little or no electricity on most of the small islands. Fish, lobster, conch, coconut, and other seafood are the main staples. The Kunas are a small but very attractive race. They have tried to maintain racial purity by outlawing intermarriage with non- Kunas. Some of the Kuna villages have chosen to leave the traditional Kuna life and become more modern. In these villages one can see the evil flicker of the "boob tube" and other modern conveniences. There appears to be a lot of tolerance for different life styles among them. We met a very famous transvestite on Rio Sidra and homosexuality seems to be tolerated.
The Kuna women make their living by selling "molas". These are embroidered layers of various colored cloths The women wear them as a shirt pattern. They depict different motifs: animal, sea, trees, fruit, birds and abstract or historical. They are one of the most common items bought by tourists. As soon a s yacht anchors, the Kuna women paddle out in their cayucos to sell "molas". The best way to see a "mola" is to google it. They are quite beautiful and would make a great wall hanging by framing them.
We sailed from the San Blas Islands on February 6th for Colon, via Linton and Portobello. During the last month we have had two Canadian sailors with us. They joined us in the San Blas and made the transit of the Panama Canal to the Pacific side. They will leave tomorrow. It has been a wonderful experience to have them aboard and it proved that we can accommodate another couple.
Presently, we are anchored in Las Playitas near Flamenco Island on the Pacific side. This is the Western entrance to the Panama Canal. Panama City is about 5 miles away. We are preparing for the voyage to the Galapagos. Our plans are to leave next Thursday or Friday.
The blog is going to have long periods when there will be no postings because we won't have internet service. I will try to catch up when I can but will, most likely, have to give a summary of events. The Pacific is vast and our sailing distances will increase. From Las Playitas to the Galapagos is 950 nm. From the Galapagos to the Marquesas is 3000 nm!! Somewhere along these long voyages I may learn that I can write and save my entries and then post them on the blog. Until then, be patient.
Briefly, we had a great sail from Port Antonio to El Porvenir: 555 nm. One could not have asked for better Wx: NE to E Trade Winds 15-18 kts with 8-10 seas. These seas were gentle giants with a long interval between seas. We averaged about 126 nm per day under double reefed mainsail and reefed jib. There were times when we could have set more sail during the day but it is necessary to reef down at night. With big seas running it was safer to run with a reefed configuration instead of trying to gain extra speed with a full sail.
The San Blas Islands are absolutely beautiful and the Kuna Indians are very friendly and welcoming to tourists. Most are visiting yachts and the Kuna Indians are good businessmen as well as being great sailors and fishermen. The islands are picture perfect postcards of what the South Pacific Islands must look like. The only difference is that they aren't volcanic in origin with a lagoon but reefed fringed with breaks between the reef and islands. Many of the Kuna Indians have chosen to live a very simple life with dugout canoes which they call "Cayucos". They sail and paddle these cayucos from the islands to the mainland where they have small farm plots to raise vegetables and fruits. They leave early in the morning and return in the afternoon. There is little or no electricity on most of the small islands. Fish, lobster, conch, coconut, and other seafood are the main staples. The Kunas are a small but very attractive race. They have tried to maintain racial purity by outlawing intermarriage with non- Kunas. Some of the Kuna villages have chosen to leave the traditional Kuna life and become more modern. In these villages one can see the evil flicker of the "boob tube" and other modern conveniences. There appears to be a lot of tolerance for different life styles among them. We met a very famous transvestite on Rio Sidra and homosexuality seems to be tolerated.
The Kuna women make their living by selling "molas". These are embroidered layers of various colored cloths The women wear them as a shirt pattern. They depict different motifs: animal, sea, trees, fruit, birds and abstract or historical. They are one of the most common items bought by tourists. As soon a s yacht anchors, the Kuna women paddle out in their cayucos to sell "molas". The best way to see a "mola" is to google it. They are quite beautiful and would make a great wall hanging by framing them.
We sailed from the San Blas Islands on February 6th for Colon, via Linton and Portobello. During the last month we have had two Canadian sailors with us. They joined us in the San Blas and made the transit of the Panama Canal to the Pacific side. They will leave tomorrow. It has been a wonderful experience to have them aboard and it proved that we can accommodate another couple.
Presently, we are anchored in Las Playitas near Flamenco Island on the Pacific side. This is the Western entrance to the Panama Canal. Panama City is about 5 miles away. We are preparing for the voyage to the Galapagos. Our plans are to leave next Thursday or Friday.
The blog is going to have long periods when there will be no postings because we won't have internet service. I will try to catch up when I can but will, most likely, have to give a summary of events. The Pacific is vast and our sailing distances will increase. From Las Playitas to the Galapagos is 950 nm. From the Galapagos to the Marquesas is 3000 nm!! Somewhere along these long voyages I may learn that I can write and save my entries and then post them on the blog. Until then, be patient.
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