SAN CRISTOBAL TO SANTA CRUZ ISLAND, GALAPAGOS

April 4, 2012 Wednesday

The swell has started to go down so we set sail at 0700 hrs this morning for Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island.  Once we got well offshore the seas were much less that in the harbor.  Also, we had a favorable NE'ly wind so we set sail and were moving along at 4.5 kts under main and jib. Alas, the wind backed into the NW and then the SW where it became a dead "noser"--motor sailing required to make Acadamy Bay by evening.  The distance from San Cristobal to Santa Cruz is only 42 nm but we had an adverse current slowing us down so we only averaged 4.5 kts with the engine and mainsail.  I thought there might be some growth on the bottom of the hull but I had just cleaned it a week ago.  We passed by Santa Fe island which is uninhabited and desolate.  There are many Cacti of the genus Opuntia that grows there:  this is a rather unique cactus because it grows in tree form with a trunk as it gets older.  Other than Cacti and birds, we saw no other animal forms while sailing along its barren shores.  There is a small protected cove on the NE of the island that Bluche, Le Tourmelin and, finally, Bernard Moitessier anchored in 1964 spending 6 weeks there with his wife Francoise.  This is no longer possible since the Galapagos National Park Service doesn't permit yachts anchoring on uninhabited islands.  The reason for this is the re-introduction of the almost extinct land tortoises and iguanas on these islands.  They can be visited with a special National Park Service Guide but this would be very expensive.  The other way to do it is via a tour boat.

Despite the motor sailing, the Wx was beautiful and it was a most pleasant trip over to Academy Bay.  We dropped anchor in the bay at 1700 hrs and enjoyed a fabulous sunset.

Academy Bay in Puerto Ayora on the island of Santa Cruz is the most populated island in the Galapagos.  Charles Darwin Station is the center for scientific research, breeding and reintroduction of the almost extinct tortoises, iguanas and other endangered species.  As a result, there are many more Europeans and Americans located here under the auspices of grants and funds from various organizations.  This, too, brings in a wealthier tourist arriving by plane and cruise ship.  As a result, there are more upscale hotels, dinning places and the ubiquitous jewelery stores and handicraft shops.  There is a lot more to do and see here than on San Cristobal but, so far, we like Baquerizo Morena more and miss the sounds and antics of the sea lions.  We have seen no sea lions here in the port but they do exist on the island.  Here are the blue footed bobbies, giant land turtles, terrestial iguanas and a more diverse flora and fauna.  The Charles Darwin Scientific Research Center has captured most of the endangered species and has them in special breeding and re-introduction programs.  They are doing a fabulous job of bringing back these almost extinct species.  There are thirteen islands in the Galapagos of which only four are inhabited.  In the 1700's pirates, buccaneers, whalers, sealers and others wreaked havoc on the existing wildlife.  The introduction of pigs, goats, cats and dogs just about finished off the job of decimating many of the endemic species.  The giant turtles were taken as food in the hulls of ships and then it was discovered that, in addition to food, they could be used for burning oil in lamps.  Thousands were killed until a point was reached that the species could no longer survive on its own.  In 1959, UNESCO and other organizations declared the Galapagos a World Heritage Site and the Ecuadorean government set up National Park Service.  Today, these efforts are paying off and most of the islanders are environmentally in tune with biodiversity and protecting what is left.  After all, if their most unique flora and fauna disappears so does all the income from tourism which is the most important source of income for most islanders.

There is one special land tortoise that is in captivity at the Charles Darwin Research Center.  His name is "Lonesome George".  He is the last surviving land tortoise from the island of La Pinta.  Most of these land tortoises lived around the craters of volcanoes.  Unfortunately for George, the crater collapsed and killed all the remaining females leaving only himself.  Many attempts were made to search the island for a suitable mate but in vain.  Today he is in a pen with other females from different islands but has shown no interest in breeding.  These turtles can live to be 150 years old and George is about 90 years old.  Unless he chooses to procreate, with his death, another species goes extinct.

Our mail has arrived at last.  We picked it up at the FedEx Office on Saturday.  We now have two anodes for the main engine that our friend, John, sent.  Now I have to find out where they go!! It's not obvious and difficult to see how to access this most inaccessible place.

Tomorrow we will start to organize a tour to see more of the island.  I don't know where this will take us.