PAPEETE, TAHITI

June 23, 2012

We entered Papeete, Tahiti at 0630 hrs in the morning and were all secure at the downtown Quay de Yachts @ 0730.  In former times there were only a few permanent berths available so most of the yachts were able to Med Moor (drop an anchor and then use two stern lines to make fast to the bollards) on the quay walls.  Everything is still there and well maintained, however, new barge pontoons have been brought in so that yachts are secured to these using the two stern anchors that are attached to the pontoons with messenger lines and led aft once the yacht has the bow lines made fast.  It makes it easy since no anchoring is involved and it is very secure.  I see no one using the older Med Moor system and don't think it is allowed.  Prices for the tie ups to the pontoons are quite reasonable at $3.00 per meter per day.

Papeete is a very modern city with all the services and amenities a cruiser will need.  Spare parts for the various engines will, most likely, have to be ordered out of the States but the mechanics and haul-out facilities are available.  The supermarkets are as well stocked as one would find in the States with an even better selection.  It's only a question of money.  I have mentioned elsewhere that the prices are at least twice as expensive as the States and in many cases thrice.  We are having a hard time adjusting to these exorbitant prices but, as far as we can tell from talking to other yachties, this is the new reality all the way through the South Pacific including Australia.  To those future cruisers and in a song by Leadbelly--"bring it with you when you come".  As far as French Polynesia is concerned the romantic past exists only as a tourist commodity.  The South Pacific islands are very beautiful and will not change but the culture is a modern Polynesian/French mix with French on top.

One of the wonderful things that we are enjoying once again are the French baguettes, croissants and other pastries.  The long baguettes are one of the cheapest items around: about $0.60 each.  Sandwiches made up in the baguettes are also quite cheap and eaten by everyone on the go.  There is a pervasive underlying Chinese culture that brings all the noodles, Chow Mein etc. to the markets.  A good percentage of the open markets and businesses are run by Chinese immigrants.  There is not a lot of bargaining to be done here in Papeete.  They set a price and seem to stick to it.  We have tried to bargain for vegetables in the open farmer's market but they won't budge.  Perhaps with other things it's possible.

The public transportation is reasonable at $1.50 for a bus.  Taxis are few and very expensive.  It would cost about $25 to go five miles to a supermarket.  Therefore, no one uses them except the high end tourist staying in the luxury hotels.

Right now French Polynesia is working up to Bastile Day on July 15th.  Over the last two days there have been the outrigger canoes racing from Papeete to Moorea which is about 10 miles one way.  They are amazingly fast and can make 12 or more kts with 6 paddlers.  Today we had over 100 outriggers racing to Moorea.  We can see this and Moorea from the yacht.  So far we have seen no dancing.  We are looking forward to seeing the Tamare dance.  Our friends, Scott and Kitty, were so impressed that they named their Valiant 40 "Tamure".  We are hoping that it will happen in Moorea, Raiatea or Bora Bora.  The closest that we have come to Tamare was  fish in Apatake and they were delicious.

Right now we are sitting at a restaurant/bar using the internet and listening to very modern music in English.  Polynesian music is here but not heard too often other than the street musicians.

We will be here until Monday and then we plan to sail over to Moorea in a place called Opanahou Bay.  Supposedly, the views are spectacular.  During the Pacific Puddle Jumpers Rally, many of the yachts anchored there and a strong N'ly wind came up gusting to 40 kts and set several of them on a reef.  I'm not sure how much damage was done but we will be very careful and keep an anchor watch.

The longer range plans have us sailing from Papeete to Moorea, Raiatea, Bora Bora and then the long sail of 1200 nm to Tonga.  We will try to make a stop at Palmerston Atoll which is 660 nm from Bora Bora.  If possible, we will moor there for a few days and then continue on.  The voyage now puts us at the mercy of the SE Trade winds which can be quite boisterous at this time of year with big seas.  Not to worry, the Valiant 40 is made for this!   We should have internet until we leave Bora Bora and then no more posting until we arrive at Vava'u in Tonga.