Thursday, March 1, 2012

Last few pictures of the San BlasIslands and heading towards the Pacific.

Kuna Child
Kuna children playing in the village of Nargana
Turkey Buzzard.

Kuna Boat
These next two picture are for my good friend Deloris Jones 
This also is for my friend Deloris.

The city of Portobello which Panama Atlantic side.

Part of the Fort in Portobello.

LAS PLAYITAS ANCHORAGE

February 15 - March 2, 2012

We have been in Las Playitas for almost two weeks.  John and Karin left on Monday February 20th for their return to "Auburn Angle" in Marathon, Fl.  It was a wonderful time with them and we would have taken them onto the Marquesa Islands.  It's not easy to have four people living on a small boat but we made it work.  Thank you John and Karin!

Las Playitas (8-54.5' N x 79-31.5' W) is just outside of a marina by the same name.  It is on a peninsula that is joined by a causeway called Amador.  Las Playitas is on the North side and there is another anchorage called Las Brisas on the South side.  During the dry season (December to May) the North side is preferred and during the wet season (May to December) the South side is the better one.  The Las Playitas anchorage is very "rolly" from all the traffic that is entering or exiting the Canal.  Additionally, there are several launch boats that go out to the anchored ships carrying passengers and supplies.  They have no mercy in cutting back on their throttle and seem to take a devilish delight in rocking the yachts at anchor.  Nevertheless, for $35 per week, we have dinghy access to the Las Playitas Marina where we can get water, fuel and taxi cabs into Panama City.  There is free WiFi not too far from the marina and we walk there almost every evening.  During our last week here we found out that we could have our phones charged up with a Simm card and internet access for less that $10.  Additionally, we got 100 minutes to the States for $1.99.

The last few week have been very busy with shopping, shopping, shopping.  Panama City is a great place to shop.  It's like being in the States.  They have almost everthing one could ask for.  It will be the last place where we will find this kind of food for a long time.  We have supplied the boat with at least a four month surplus.  This will take us to Papeete, Tahiti.  All we need are fresh vegetables in the Galapagos and Marquesas.  We will catch fish along the way and buy meat after we enter ports.

It has been necessary to have a French Agency in Papeete post a bond for our entry into the Marquesas. Additionally, we had to find a cheap medical/evacuation insurance policy:  DAN insurance solved this.  The French will allow 90 days in a six month period for tourists.  We would like to stay longer and try to haul out and go back to the States for the Typhoon season rather that sailing to New Zealand this year.  We'll have to see what can be done.

The Galapagos present no special difficulties.  An agent is needed and now boats can only anchor in a few designated places.  We will do this and take a tour boat along with the rest of the visiting tourists.  The cruising world has changed during the last thirty plus years and not for the better in many cases.

Tomorrow March 2nd we sail from Las Playitas for the Galapagos Is:  850 nm.  We will stop at Contadora (8-37.2' N x 79-02.1') in the Perlas Islands for an evening to rest.  I figure it will take 10-14 days to get to the Galapagos as the winds become very light or non-existent near the equator.  We do not carry enough fuel to motor so we'll take what comes along.  All this means that there will be no blog for several weeks.

PORTOBELLO TO COLON AND PANAMA CANAL TRANSIT

February 10, 2012

It's only 25 nm from Portobello to Colon so we heaved up anchor at 0800 hrs and were in Colon at Shelter Bay Marina in the early afternoon.  Now comes the hectic part of making arrangements for a transit through the Panama Canal.  Like everything else in life, there is an economical way to do this and a more expensive convenient way.  Assessing the situation at hand, I had to act quickly in order to have John and Karin as line handlers in the transit.  It's Friday afternoon and the Admeasure's Office will be closed until Monday.  This is the first step in setting up a transit:  get the Admeasurer to work out all the calculations.  Fortunately, I ran into a most excellent agent named Roy Bravo at the Shelter Bay Marina.  He offered the following solution for a scheduled transit.  Pay the overtime and have the Admeasurer come out to the boat on Saturday: 2 hr min @$85 per hr = $170.  If I were to do this, I could get the boat scheduled to transit the Canal on Tuesday.  The agent's fee will be $400 and the Transit will be $650 plus sundry other expenses.  The final tab for all expenses was $1501  Here is what has to be done to transit the Canal:

1)  Get the boat measured: length, beam, draft, tonnage
2)  Have four 125' lines: these can be rented @ $150.
3)  Have at least four tires for fendering:  agent provided these "free"
4)  Have four line handlers onboard:  I had John, Karin, Phyllis and had to hire the extra line handler at  $60 per day for two days.  Line handler sleeps onboard and has to be fed.
5)  Once the scedule is set, the vessel is anchored in the "F" anchorage and awaits an "advisor" at a designated time.  Advisor and Line Handler are to be fed and provided nourishing drinks.
6)  Get "zarpe" (Clearance Permit from Colon to Balboa)
7)  Mariners Visa

So I paid the overtime to the Admeasurer and received a tentative transit time of 1600 hrs on Tuesday.  We left Shelter Bay Marina at 1345 and dropped anchor in the "F" anchorage.  The "Advisor" boarded Solstice at 1600 hrs and we heaved up anchor and proceeded to the Gatun Locks.  Gatun Lock has three chambers that pick up the vessels to a total height of 85 ft.  In each chamber one is lifted about 28 ft.  We entered behind a large ship and took a "center chamber tie up".  This means that the four line handlers are thrown light lines which they tie onto the bigger 125 ft lines which are hauled up onto the lock walls by dedicated lock personnel.  This holds the vessel in position while the locks are being filled.  This is "up locking" and the most difficult.  Our line handlers, John, Karin, Phyllis and Eric, will keep taking up the slack of the lines as directed by the Advisor.  The water is turbulent and fast so tension has to be kept on the lines:  haul in, haul in, haul in.  As long as tension is kept on the lines all is well.  Should a line break the Captain will have to use the boats engine to hold position.  In our case all is well.  We have a good advisor, center chamber tie up and good line handlers.  After each chamber is filled the gate is opened and the big lines are taken in but the smaller ones are still attached and are walked along the locks on the port and stbd. sides by dedicated lock personnel.  This is repeated in the next two chambers.  In the last chamber that feeds into Gatun Lake, the small lines are detached from our bigger lines and when it's time to exit a horn sounds and our lines are thrown off and we exit the lock into Gatun Lake.

Gatun Lake feeds the fresh water for the locking system.  It is an artificial lake that huge and deep: 20 miles long and many miles wide.  It has enough water to keep the Gatun Locks operating 24 hrs per day 365 day a year: millions and millions of gallons on water.

Once we exited the last lock we are taken to an overnight anchorage.  The Advisor gets off and goes home.  The line handler stays and sleeps onboard.  Total time for picking up anchor in the "F" anchorage and locking through the three chambers of Gatun Lock and dropping anchor in Gatun Lake was 2 hrs 24 minutes.  The actual locking through the three chambers took only one hour!!  Had we been a big ship they would have had locomotives pulling the ship through the locks: 4, 6, or 8 locomotives per side depending on size.  This provides perfect control of the vessel.

Day 2

The Advisor arrived at 0615 this morning.  We heave up anchor and proceed to the Pedro Miguel and Miraflores Locks.  It takes about four hrs to motor through Gatun Lake and Galliard Cut before reaching the locks.  Sometimes they are in a hurry and you have to push the engine to make the time.  In our case it was a very easy slow paced affair.  Gatun Lake is beautiful and we enjoy the scenery.

We enter Pedro Miguel Lock at 1200 hrs.  Once again it is a "center lock tie up".  Down locking" is much easier since one is letting out line.  Pedro Miguel lock drops us down thirty feet.  It is a single lock.  Once the gate opens, we motor about a mile to the Miraflores Locks.  Depending on the Pacific Tides which can exceed 16 ft, there are two chambers that drop the boats down about thirty feet in each chamber.  The procedure is the same with the line handling but line is payed out instead of heaving it in.  Miraflores lock has a camera that views all ships coming through.  If one knows the approximate time of entering, they call tell their friends and relatives anywhere in the world and they can access the Miraflores website and watch the ships coming and going.  We did'nt know the time and had no internet access.

We exited the Miraflores Lock at 1312 hrs and dropped anchor in Las Playitas anchorage at 1430 hrs.  Las Playitas is just off the main Canal channel about five miles outside of Panama City.

EL PORVENIR TO LINTON ISLAND AND PORTOBELLO

 February 7, 2012

I made the official check out yesterday and received our "zarpe" (clearance paper) to Colon via Linton island and Portobello.  We heaved up anchor at at 0630 and set sail for Linton Island which is about 45 nm to the West.  The wind is out of the NE at 15 kts and the seas are around 8' in big swells.  We are running to the North of the Escribano Banks which are about 7 nm offshore.  It is a good sailing day.

We arrived in Linton Island at 1730 hrs and dropped anchor (9-36.7' N  x 79-35.2' W) in 40 ft water with 180 ft chain out.  Linton island is surrounded by high mountains and we could here the cries of Macaws and other wildlife.  There is a band of monkeys on the island which are the only inhabitants.  It is reported that they are friendly and will approach and sit in you lap but once they determine that you are leaving, they become upset and may bite.  After our experiences with monkeys in Nepal at the Monkey Temple, we want nothing to do with them.  One can view them from a distance without physical contact.  In Nepal, it was necessary to carry stones with you to keep them away.

Linton was just an overnight night stop for rest and we didn't go ashore.  The following morning we heaved up anchor and proceeded to Portobello which is only 8 nm to the West.  Portobello (beautiful port) was once the depository of all the gold that the Spaniards were looting from as far away as Peru.  It was brought here and loaded on the galleons enroute to Seville, Spain.  The city was fortified with walled fortresses and cannon but that didn't stop the famous pirate Capt. Morgan from breaking through the barriers and looting the city.  With 460+ men he was able to overcome the Spaniards and decimate the city.  It was rebuilt and fortified with more cannon and wall but, once again, an English privateer named Vernon was able to burst through the defenses.  At this point, the Spanish lost faith in Portobello and moved their ill-gotten gain to Nombre de Dios which was easier to defend.

Today Portobello is a very small town stretched along the water's edge with very little to recommend it other than history and  magnificent walled fortresses with cannon.  These walled fortresses are formidable and it's hard to see how they were breached by ships entering the harbor.

We took a very colorful bus to Las Sabanitas, which is about 35 miles away, to do some shopping.  It's easier to do it here rather than in Colon.  Foreigners refer to these buses as "Chicken Buses".

Tomorrow we leave for Colon.

COCO BANDERO CAYS TO HOLLANDES CAYS

February 4, 2012

The Coco Bandero Cays were just isolated enough that the Friday "veggie boat" didn't make a stop.  We'll make do with what we have aboard until we reach Portobello.

We weighed anchor at 1042 hrs this morning and set sail for the Hollandes Cays (9-35.1' N x 78-41.6' W).   These cays are considered by many to be the most beautiful and have the clearest waters in all of the San Blas Islands.  This can be disputed by those who have cruised around here for years.  Anyway, they are magnificent and teaming with fish, conch and lobster.  Since they are one of the most Northerly group of islands, the waves are roaring and breaking over the reefs.  Such awesome power! to see ten ft swells bursting over those reefs.  Although the inner lagoons are calm, there is quite a bit of current running through this area.  Cruisers mainly anchor at two places:  The Swimming Pool and the Hot Tub.  The Swimming Pool is closer to the reefs and has a better breeze than the Hot Tub.  For those that need the wind power for their wind generators, it is the chosen place to anchor.  The Hot Tub is more protected but has less wind.  Also, there is a very tight entrance with reefs protruding on both sides.  This is where the "navigation team" shines:  Karin and John are on the bow visually spotting the reefs and relaying info via the VHF radio to me while I am sitting at the chart table and watching the plotted course on the electronic charts.  I give helm orders to Phyllis and she keeps the boat on course.  Whatever Karin and John see takes precedence over everything else.  GPS and electronic charts are great but there is nothing so good as "eyeballing" it.  This will be crucial to navigating in the South Pacific islands.  The San Blas area was a great place to start.

We anchored  in the Bath Tub (9-35.1 N  x 78-41.6' W).  There are quite a few islands in this group along with various reefs teaming with fish.  It is here that we met Bruce and Marcell on their Tayana 37 "Adventure Bound".  Karin and John have a Tayana 37 so it was a natural attraction.  Additionally, Bruce was a very experienced diver and speared some beautiful fish.  He speared a big Trigger Fish which I filleted.  There was enough for everyone and it was delicious.  Grouper and Mahi Mahi are favorites but this falls right in place as a most delicious fish.

The Hollandes were the final great cruising cays we would see on this most interesting and beautiful cruise through very remote areas.  We give our gratitude to Scott and Kitty on their Valiant 40 "Tamure" for directing us here as a "MUST".  If not for their persistence in stating that "you have to see the San Blas Islands", we might have gone directly into Colon and made the transit through the Canal.

We heaved up anchor on Feb 6th and sailed back into El Porvenir for checking out.  If you check in at El Porvenir officially you have to check out of there for Colon.

NARGANA TO RIO AZUCAR AND COCO BANDEROS CAYS

February 3, 2012

Weighed anchor at 1045 this morning and proceeded to to Rio Azucar for fresh water.  Although we have a water maker onboard that has an output of three gallons per hour, we are four persons and I have to run it around three hours a day to keep up with demand.  Whenever I can get fresh water, I'm happy to take it on.  Rio Azucar is one of those places where they have a dock that provides fresh water from the Rio Diablo.  It is on the leeward side of the island and coming alongside one has to be careful not to knock over one of the "outhouses" on the bow very close by.  Other than water, Rio Azucar has very little to recommend it.  We loaded our water and left for the Coco Banderos Cays which are 8 nm Northwest.

We departed Rio Azucar at 1342 and dropped anchor in the Coco Banderos Cays (9-30.6' N   78-37.1' W) at 1530.  This group of cays is remote with few yachts but stunningly beautiful.  There is a Kuna on one of the islands that was a former Mormon missionary and spent quite a bit of time in Salt Lake City, Utah.  He is building a beautiful thatched roof restaurant on one of the islands and has ambitious plans for attracting yachties.  He indicated that he was a "beer" drinking Mormon and no longer associated with the church.  We wish him luck with his restaurant but can't see how he will succeed in a place that has such limited anchoring for visiting yachts.

We did a lot of swimming, snorkeling, exploring and collecting shells on the Coco Banderos Cays.  It was a wonderful time spent with our good friends John and Karin.  Every island is a treasure onto itself.  We can see that global warming is starting to overwhelm many of the low islands in the San Blas area.  Many remnants of coconut trees are seen under water where there was once land.

GREEN ISLAND TO NARGANA

January 30, 2012

We departed Green Island this morning at 1100 hrs and sailed over to Nargana.  Once again the distance is short: 5 nm. Dropped anchor at 1222 hrs on the South side of Nargana anchorage (9-26.5' N  78-35.2' W).  Nargana is a very unique place in Kuna Yala because the Kunas living here have decided to give up many of the traditional Kuna ways of living and adopt a more modern attitude.  Secondly, there are two islands that have been joined with a bridge between the two islands:  Nargana on one side and Corazon de Jesus on the other.  Although joined by the bridge they maintain separate village chiefs.  Corazon de Jesus has a small regional airport with flights to Panama City.  Like all other Kuna villages, Nargana only enjoys fresh vegetables once a week when the 4 x 4 jeeps bring them from Panama City.  Nevertheless they are available on a "wilting basis" throughout the week.  Dry stores and booze is always available along with the delicious Kuna bread.  Nargana gets its water supply from the Rio Diablo river whose entrance is only a quarter mile away.  The water comes via 6" PVC piping from a waterfall that is about six miles upriver but crosses the Rio Diablo at about three miles and then wends it way over land and back under the sea to the the village.  At the time we were there the pipe had been broken for almost four months and delivered no water to the villagers which number at least 1200 persons between Nargana and Corazon de Jesus.  Not to worry, the locals were making constant trips from the island to the mainland in their "cayucos" and hauling water back and forth.  This is a three mile trip up the Rio Diablo to where the PVC piping crosses the river.  Also, it ensures fresh clean water with no salt contamination from the sea.  Back and forth, back and forth they paddle or motor the cayucos to provide water to the village.

We decided to go up the Rio Diablo in our dinghy to see where they were getting their water.  It is a beautiful trip up a scenic river.  Along the way we passed some farming plots and Kuna cemeteries.  Finally, we reached the water source where the PVC waterline crosses over the river.  It was here that everyone was filling barrels, water jugs of all descriptions and anything else that was available.  It is an amazing feat to provide water to two villages via dugout canoes on a daily basis.  We were told that the pipe line was in the process of being fixed and would be delivering water in a few days.

While we were Nargana, we saw a sign that said "beer sold here".  I knocked on the door and a very friendly Kuna came out and invited us into the back of his home to sit at a table under a thatched roof.  He was a former government employee and well educated.  He explained the modern ways of the Kunas living in Nargana and explained that his daughter was studying at the university in Panama City.  In the past is was forbidden for a Kuna woman to marry outside the race, however, in Nargana this is no longer true.  It still holds true for the Kuna following traditional ways.  Before we left his home, he gave us bananas, coconuts, limes and mangoes.

Since we couldn't get water in Nargana, we decided to go to Rio Azucar which is only 3 miles away.  Nargana is as far East as we will cruise on this trip.  We will now start to head back West until we check out at El Porvenir and start making our way back to Colon and the Panama Canal transit.