GREEN ISLAND TO NARGANA

January 30, 2012

We departed Green Island this morning at 1100 hrs and sailed over to Nargana.  Once again the distance is short: 5 nm. Dropped anchor at 1222 hrs on the South side of Nargana anchorage (9-26.5' N  78-35.2' W).  Nargana is a very unique place in Kuna Yala because the Kunas living here have decided to give up many of the traditional Kuna ways of living and adopt a more modern attitude.  Secondly, there are two islands that have been joined with a bridge between the two islands:  Nargana on one side and Corazon de Jesus on the other.  Although joined by the bridge they maintain separate village chiefs.  Corazon de Jesus has a small regional airport with flights to Panama City.  Like all other Kuna villages, Nargana only enjoys fresh vegetables once a week when the 4 x 4 jeeps bring them from Panama City.  Nevertheless they are available on a "wilting basis" throughout the week.  Dry stores and booze is always available along with the delicious Kuna bread.  Nargana gets its water supply from the Rio Diablo river whose entrance is only a quarter mile away.  The water comes via 6" PVC piping from a waterfall that is about six miles upriver but crosses the Rio Diablo at about three miles and then wends it way over land and back under the sea to the the village.  At the time we were there the pipe had been broken for almost four months and delivered no water to the villagers which number at least 1200 persons between Nargana and Corazon de Jesus.  Not to worry, the locals were making constant trips from the island to the mainland in their "cayucos" and hauling water back and forth.  This is a three mile trip up the Rio Diablo to where the PVC piping crosses the river.  Also, it ensures fresh clean water with no salt contamination from the sea.  Back and forth, back and forth they paddle or motor the cayucos to provide water to the village.

We decided to go up the Rio Diablo in our dinghy to see where they were getting their water.  It is a beautiful trip up a scenic river.  Along the way we passed some farming plots and Kuna cemeteries.  Finally, we reached the water source where the PVC waterline crosses over the river.  It was here that everyone was filling barrels, water jugs of all descriptions and anything else that was available.  It is an amazing feat to provide water to two villages via dugout canoes on a daily basis.  We were told that the pipe line was in the process of being fixed and would be delivering water in a few days.

While we were Nargana, we saw a sign that said "beer sold here".  I knocked on the door and a very friendly Kuna came out and invited us into the back of his home to sit at a table under a thatched roof.  He was a former government employee and well educated.  He explained the modern ways of the Kunas living in Nargana and explained that his daughter was studying at the university in Panama City.  In the past is was forbidden for a Kuna woman to marry outside the race, however, in Nargana this is no longer true.  It still holds true for the Kuna following traditional ways.  Before we left his home, he gave us bananas, coconuts, limes and mangoes.

Since we couldn't get water in Nargana, we decided to go to Rio Azucar which is only 3 miles away.  Nargana is as far East as we will cruise on this trip.  We will now start to head back West until we check out at El Porvenir and start making our way back to Colon and the Panama Canal transit.