September 27-30, 2013
We departed our mooring at Port Vila at 1524 hrs in the afternoon bound for Noumea, New Caledonia (22-16.6' S x 166-26.4' E) via Pass de la Havannah (22-20' S x 167-04 E): distance 334 nm. We had a favorable ESE-SE Trade Wind at 15-20 kts. It had just enough easterly in it for us to hold to a rhumb line course of 197 T deg. The seas were running about 6' which made for pleasant sailing. The sail from Vanuatu to New Caledonia can be challenging if the winds are more southerly as this puts the vessel sailing close-hauled or hard on the wind. What this comes down to is beating into the wind and seas which gets old after a day or two. In our case we were on a close reach on the port tack which allowed us some freedom to make our intended course. It was a very pleasant sail until about 40 nm miles off Havannah Pass the wind died so we had to motor the rest of the way. Havannah Pass is one of those special places that deserves a lot of thought and respect: Spring tides can run out of the pass at 5 kts. Therefore, the Pass has to timed so that it is entered on a rising inbound tide. The turbulence and white water created in the Pass is awesome to behold and sail through. Yachts have been lost here by trying to enter the Pass on an outgoing tide against a SE'ly Trade Wind sea. As we entered the Pass we could see the wreck of a large commercial fishing boat that had been set on the reef.
Noumea is 40 nm from Havannah Pass and is, mostly, motor sailing. Just as you want that incoming tide to enter the Pass, this same tide will give you a boost all the way to Noumea. We entered the Pass at 1030 hrs in the morning on Monday September 30th and found a berth at Port Moselle Marina in Noumea at 1730 hrs in the evening: perfect timing to make fast and have a "sun-downer".
The 40 nm that we motored along the coast, bays and inlets of southern New Caledonia to Noumea showed a very red soil with a special type of long thin pine tree. There is quite a bit of erosion and small scrub growth on the hills and mountains. Anchorages abound and are very well protected against all winds from any direction. New Caledonia has an important mining industry and contains 25% of the world's nickel supply. Additionally, there is copper, cobalt, gold and silver in limited quantities. At one time in the past, the island was a valuable source of sandalwood but it was logged out and sent to China and India. We passed one of the mining ports and saw four cargo ships loading ore from a conveyor belt that stretched up a mountain side and disappeared.
The French first took interest in New Caledonia in 1853 under the reign of Napoleon III. From 1864-1894, some 22,000 convicts were sent as a cheap supply of labor. When I look around at all the French territories, it appears that they were exporting a significant percentage of the population as convicts. I think there was a deliberate governmental policy to accuse, try and convict healthy eligible men so they could be exiled to the colonies as cheap labor. At any rate, more labor was needed for the mines so Malabar Indians, Vietnamese and Javanese workers were brought in to provide labor for the mines. this explains the great ethnic diversity that is found in New Caledonia today. During WWII, the Americans used New Caledonia as a supply base in the Pacific naval campaign against the Japanese. There is a monument in the center of town dedicated to those Americans who participated in this effort and ensured the freedom of New Caledonia.
Noumea is a very modern city and very French. It is one of the most sophisticated cities in the South Pacific outside of Papeete and New Zealand. The biggest difference we have found here is that the local French population doesn't have the Parisian hauteur about them. They are far more open and friendly. The native population consists of Kanaks: a mixture of Melanesian and Micronesian migrations. So far, the little we have seen, they are in a minority in the Capital but predominate in the interior and many of the islands where the tribal system still exists.
There is a special elegance in the French culture that isn't found anywhere else. Their presentaition and preparation of food, [pastry, meats, fish, cheese, fruit and vegetables is awsome to behold. The wines are legendary. No where outside of French culture have we ever seen such fabulous displays of gastronomy. It's a special treat just to enter a patisserie or butcher's shop and see the amount of artistic labor that goes into the preparation. The supermarket displays the same thing on a magnified scale. The local farmer's and municipal markets have it too. To enter a fish market is to be baffled by the varieties of seafood to be found. If it can be eaten, the French are there to exploit the best flavor possible from it.
Noumea is an attractive city with many beautifully designed parks spread out for the enjoyment of her population. It appears that they make good use of them as one sees the locals eating, singing, playing and having a good time in the grass, tables and benches supplied. Also, there is a good bus system that takes you around the city or to the outlying areas. The cost of living here is about the same as in the States or New Zealand, perhaps a little more expensive. The basic staples like bread, wine, cheese and lunch meats are reasonably priced. The famous French baguette costs $1.00 US and can't be resisted. Every morning one sees everyone carrying them back to the boats or home.
We have been to the Lagoon Aquarium which is the finest presentation of corals and reef life that we have ever seen anywhere. The presentation is so well thought out and maintained that you can imagine yourself in the actual reef environment looking at varied life that exists. There is seating in some of the areas that is perfectly placed so that you can sit and observe the marine life of the reef unfolding before your eyes. The Germans are famous for their "attention to detail" but the French go one step farther by adding artistic excellence to the mix. Also, visited the Maritime Museum and found it to be very interesting and, once again, well presented and informative. We will continue to visit some of the other museums and places here before we head out to the islands and bays surrounding the area. New Cal has the secont longest reef and the largest lagoon system in the world outside the Great Barrier Reef of Australia. The island has an climate of "eternal Spring" - always temperate and well ventilated: 22-24 C.
