December 24, 2011
Phyllis and I went out to pick up a few items that we needed for the yacht: new furling line, ink cartridges for our HP printer and groceries. Then we took a bus ride into downtown Nassau. There were four big cruise ship in the harbor. I figure about 2000 persons on each one for a total of 8000 tourists running around the center of town or gamboling over on Paradise Island. In our opinion, Nassau isn't much to look at. It has the ubiquitous jewelry stores, straw markets, restaurants and sundry bars. Architecturally, there is nothing inspiring that I could see, however, a few hours isn't enough to be sure that there aren't a few hidden gems here and there. Horrendous traffic and loud speakers blasting out the Bahamian version of hip-hop which is offensive to my ears. I like Caribbean music and rhythm but one doesn't here much of that here. The big islands are so linked to the States that our influence is predominant. There doesn't seem to be much agriculture grown on the islands. Just about everything is imported from the States. I've read that they produce pineapples on Eleuthera but I haven't seen any here. Even the Bananas are Chiquita and come in on ships. I believe that the coconuts, fish, conch and peanuts are local. Perhaps, in the outer islands there is more produce grown locally. I wouldn't waste my time on a trip to Nassau; Wx conditions brought us here.
Sunday, December 25, 2011
NASSAU, BAHAMAS
December 24, 2011
Phyllis and I went out to pick up a few items that we needed for the yacht: new furling line, ink cartridges for our HP printer and groceries. Then we took a bus ride into downtown Nassau. There were four big cruise ship in the harbor. I figure about 2000 persons on each one for a total of 8000 tourists running around the center of town or gamboling over on Paradise Island. In our opinion, Nassau isn't much to look at. It has the ubiquitous jewelry stores, straw markets, restaurants and sundry bars. Architecturally, there is nothing inspiring that I could see, however, a few hours isn't enough to be sure that there aren't a few hidden gems here and there. Horrendous traffic and loud speakers blasting out the Bahamian version of hip-hop which is offensive to my ears. I like Caribbean music and rhythm but one doesn't here much of that here. The big islands are so linked to the States that our influence is predominant. There doesn't seem to be much agriculture grown on the islands. Just about everything is imported from the States. I've read that they produce pineapples on Eleuthera but I haven't seen any here. Even the Bananas are Chiquita and come in on ships. I believe that the coconuts, fish, conch and peanuts are local. Perhaps, in the outer islands there is more produce grown locally. I wouldn't waste my time on a trip to Nassau; Wx conditions brought us here.
Phyllis and I went out to pick up a few items that we needed for the yacht: new furling line, ink cartridges for our HP printer and groceries. Then we took a bus ride into downtown Nassau. There were four big cruise ship in the harbor. I figure about 2000 persons on each one for a total of 8000 tourists running around the center of town or gamboling over on Paradise Island. In our opinion, Nassau isn't much to look at. It has the ubiquitous jewelry stores, straw markets, restaurants and sundry bars. Architecturally, there is nothing inspiring that I could see, however, a few hours isn't enough to be sure that there aren't a few hidden gems here and there. Horrendous traffic and loud speakers blasting out the Bahamian version of hip-hop which is offensive to my ears. I like Caribbean music and rhythm but one doesn't here much of that here. The big islands are so linked to the States that our influence is predominant. There doesn't seem to be much agriculture grown on the islands. Just about everything is imported from the States. I've read that they produce pineapples on Eleuthera but I haven't seen any here. Even the Bananas are Chiquita and come in on ships. I believe that the coconuts, fish, conch and peanuts are local. Perhaps, in the outer islands there is more produce grown locally. I wouldn't waste my time on a trip to Nassau; Wx conditions brought us here.
Saturday, December 24, 2011
CHUB CAY TO NASSAU (40 NM)
December 23, 2011
Finally, we have a break in the Wx where the winds have veered around to the ESE and moderated. We departed the marina at 0645 hrs this morning and motored out of Chub Cay Bay for a direct course of 120 degrees for Nassau Harbor. We weren't planning on going here but the weather has been unfavorable so we had very few other choices . Since Christmas is so close we wanted to be in a place where we could contact our family and friends. Finally, the Eastern end of Nassau Harbor provides a channel that can be navigated into Exuma Sound. This area is strewn with reefs and coral heads and requires very careful navigation. Once we have cleared this obstacle into Exuma Sound we are on our way towards the Windward Passage. There will be anchorages on Cat Island and Long Island while we wait for a Wx window. Once we leave Cat Island there should be no more stops until we make landfall at Port Antonio, Jamaica. This was Earl Flynn's stomping ground in a past era.
Back to motor sailing: the wind was right on our nose so it was motoring all the way. The seas started off at 4-5' but as we approached New Providence Island they dropped off to 2-3'. Overall it was a fast passage and we made fast at the Nassau Harbor Club Marina at 1515 hrs.
It's a little rolly-poly in the harbor but we'll make do until Monday when we plan to sail to Highbourne Cay (24 deg. 42' N x 76 deg. 49' W) which is the Pass into Exuma Sound. This pass requires a Wx window so we could be held up once again.
Merry Christmas to All.
Finally, we have a break in the Wx where the winds have veered around to the ESE and moderated. We departed the marina at 0645 hrs this morning and motored out of Chub Cay Bay for a direct course of 120 degrees for Nassau Harbor. We weren't planning on going here but the weather has been unfavorable so we had very few other choices . Since Christmas is so close we wanted to be in a place where we could contact our family and friends. Finally, the Eastern end of Nassau Harbor provides a channel that can be navigated into Exuma Sound. This area is strewn with reefs and coral heads and requires very careful navigation. Once we have cleared this obstacle into Exuma Sound we are on our way towards the Windward Passage. There will be anchorages on Cat Island and Long Island while we wait for a Wx window. Once we leave Cat Island there should be no more stops until we make landfall at Port Antonio, Jamaica. This was Earl Flynn's stomping ground in a past era.
Back to motor sailing: the wind was right on our nose so it was motoring all the way. The seas started off at 4-5' but as we approached New Providence Island they dropped off to 2-3'. Overall it was a fast passage and we made fast at the Nassau Harbor Club Marina at 1515 hrs.
It's a little rolly-poly in the harbor but we'll make do until Monday when we plan to sail to Highbourne Cay (24 deg. 42' N x 76 deg. 49' W) which is the Pass into Exuma Sound. This pass requires a Wx window so we could be held up once again.
Merry Christmas to All.
CHUB CAY IN SOUTHERN PART OF THE BERRY ISLANDS, BAHAMAS
December 22, 2011
Tonight is our last night at Chub Cay Marina. It is a beautiful place that had great expectations for the well-to-do. In 2006 the Marina was dredged out to 12' depth and floating docks were put in with electricity and water. New luxurious homes were built in various pastel colors of blue, pink,pea green ,yellow and some colors in between. A small private airport was started and it became an official port of entry. It appears that there was a very skillful architectural firm behind the construction plans as it is, esthetically, very pleasing. To add to the natural beauty of the island , at some point in time, someone brought in the stunningly beautiful Chinese Peacocks. Today they roam about the small village in clusters. When I asked one of the locals about them, he said that nobody owns or takes care of them. Nevertheless, I saw evidence that food was being put into coconut husks for them.
Then came the economic downturn in 2008. Construction came to a halt and the great expectations of many went into bankruptcy. Today, Chub Cay Club Marina is just about deserted. No one seems to be living in the homes that were completed and the ones that were being started have vines and weeds creeping into their foundation I was informed by the office staff that a bank is managing the ongoing upkeep and making the payroll. There is a small staff of marina workers and another one consisting of construction and maintenance workers. This place has an economic future but, personally, I like it just the way it is. We have taken some pictures that will be posted.
Tonight is our last night at Chub Cay Marina. It is a beautiful place that had great expectations for the well-to-do. In 2006 the Marina was dredged out to 12' depth and floating docks were put in with electricity and water. New luxurious homes were built in various pastel colors of blue, pink,pea green ,yellow and some colors in between. A small private airport was started and it became an official port of entry. It appears that there was a very skillful architectural firm behind the construction plans as it is, esthetically, very pleasing. To add to the natural beauty of the island , at some point in time, someone brought in the stunningly beautiful Chinese Peacocks. Today they roam about the small village in clusters. When I asked one of the locals about them, he said that nobody owns or takes care of them. Nevertheless, I saw evidence that food was being put into coconut husks for them.
Then came the economic downturn in 2008. Construction came to a halt and the great expectations of many went into bankruptcy. Today, Chub Cay Club Marina is just about deserted. No one seems to be living in the homes that were completed and the ones that were being started have vines and weeds creeping into their foundation I was informed by the office staff that a bank is managing the ongoing upkeep and making the payroll. There is a small staff of marina workers and another one consisting of construction and maintenance workers. This place has an economic future but, personally, I like it just the way it is. We have taken some pictures that will be posted.
Sunday, December 18, 2011
Pictures of Port Lucaya , anchoring at Chub Cay and some of the village of Chub Cay
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| It's a display for hair braiding and it gives the prices. |
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| A colorful entrance to Port Lucaya Marketplace |
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| Our arrival at the anchorage at Chub Cay |
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| More yachts at anchore |
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| Another yacht at anchor |
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| That is how clear the water is, you actually see the bottom. |
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| Two yachts arriving as the sun was setting. |
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| Sun setting |
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| Sun setting at anchor at Chiub Cay |
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| Another beautiful sunset |
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| People fishing of the point |
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| A beautiful swimming pool at an unfinished resort. |
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| Swimming pool with cabana. |
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| Some of the resort |
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| Coral on the shore. |
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| Little church on the island. |
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| Don preaching to his one and only disciple. |
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| Outside of the little church. |
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| Peacocks that don't belong to anyone . They are free roaming peacock. |
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| This picture belong to very first picture on the blog. |
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| These are the female peacocks. They got jipped. |
This picture goes with the few pictures of Port Lucaya.
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| The sign says Family owned no cussing. |
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| Male peacock |
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| And off he goes |
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| He's a beauty |
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| We were hoping to get him to open this tail feathers. |
GRAND CAY HARBOR TO CHUB CAY HABOR (50 NM)
December 17, 2011
We departed the anchorage this morning @0815 hrs. Since we are now on the western side of the Berry Islands, we are sheltered from the wind and seas coming from the NE-E. The Passage Plan calls for a circuitous route around to the southern end of the Berry Islands through a passage called Northwest Pass Channel. This is not to be confused with the major shipping channel which is the Northwest Passage.
The wind is too light on the first leg to set sail. It is on our stern and we are motoring along at 6.2 kts. The second and third legs give no opportunity to set sail. On the last leg we are keeping a good eye on the course line and looking out for obstructions. En fin, it was a day of motoring.
At 1648 hrs, we dropped anchor in Chub Cay (25 deg. 25' N x 77 deg. 55' W) in 11 ft of water. The chart indicated that there was a surge in the harbor and this is very true --rock-a-bye-baby. Chub Cay is at the southern end of the Berry Islands.
This morning's Wx report indicates that a Cold Front will move through the waters tomorrow. This means there will be strong NW'ly wnds which will clock around to the NE and blow seven bells of shit.
We will move into the Chub Cay marina until the worst has blown through and then make a run to just North of Providence Island and begin the passage through the reefs into Exuma Sound. Once we are in Exuma Sound, it is pretty straight forward to the Windward Passage. What has become obvious is that there is no way we could have left Ft Lauderdale and made a direct passage to Panama: 1348 nm. We are in the winter season with strong trade winds and Cold Fronts. Also, there is a Colombian semi permanent low pressure system that has emerged off the Colombian coast and is producing gale force winds in much of the SW Caribbean. This system is persistent and can last weeks. The realization of this means that we will thread our way down the chain of Bahamian Islands and wait on a Wx window. We can anchor and get some rest along the way until we commit to the Windward Passage. Additionally, there will be a stop in Port Antonio, Jamaica for provisions and rest.
The biggest difference between this trip and the crossing of the Atlantic from the Canary Islands is time of year and age. We left the Canaries in March. It was Spring and the Wx was improving all the time. Conditions in the Trades was lighter. We were 35 yrs old. We left Ft Lauderdale in December. It is Winter and conditions deteriorate rapidly. We are 68 yrs old. In the Caribbean they call these the "Christmas Winds" with good reason. The Trades are blowing 20-25 kts and gusting higher; seas are running 10-12 ft. The boat can handle this and so much more under double reefed main and staysail but the crew is getting a little long in tooth. Therefore, we'll sit tight and wait on a Wx window.
We departed the anchorage this morning @0815 hrs. Since we are now on the western side of the Berry Islands, we are sheltered from the wind and seas coming from the NE-E. The Passage Plan calls for a circuitous route around to the southern end of the Berry Islands through a passage called Northwest Pass Channel. This is not to be confused with the major shipping channel which is the Northwest Passage.
The wind is too light on the first leg to set sail. It is on our stern and we are motoring along at 6.2 kts. The second and third legs give no opportunity to set sail. On the last leg we are keeping a good eye on the course line and looking out for obstructions. En fin, it was a day of motoring.
At 1648 hrs, we dropped anchor in Chub Cay (25 deg. 25' N x 77 deg. 55' W) in 11 ft of water. The chart indicated that there was a surge in the harbor and this is very true --rock-a-bye-baby. Chub Cay is at the southern end of the Berry Islands.
This morning's Wx report indicates that a Cold Front will move through the waters tomorrow. This means there will be strong NW'ly wnds which will clock around to the NE and blow seven bells of shit.
We will move into the Chub Cay marina until the worst has blown through and then make a run to just North of Providence Island and begin the passage through the reefs into Exuma Sound. Once we are in Exuma Sound, it is pretty straight forward to the Windward Passage. What has become obvious is that there is no way we could have left Ft Lauderdale and made a direct passage to Panama: 1348 nm. We are in the winter season with strong trade winds and Cold Fronts. Also, there is a Colombian semi permanent low pressure system that has emerged off the Colombian coast and is producing gale force winds in much of the SW Caribbean. This system is persistent and can last weeks. The realization of this means that we will thread our way down the chain of Bahamian Islands and wait on a Wx window. We can anchor and get some rest along the way until we commit to the Windward Passage. Additionally, there will be a stop in Port Antonio, Jamaica for provisions and rest.
The biggest difference between this trip and the crossing of the Atlantic from the Canary Islands is time of year and age. We left the Canaries in March. It was Spring and the Wx was improving all the time. Conditions in the Trades was lighter. We were 35 yrs old. We left Ft Lauderdale in December. It is Winter and conditions deteriorate rapidly. We are 68 yrs old. In the Caribbean they call these the "Christmas Winds" with good reason. The Trades are blowing 20-25 kts and gusting higher; seas are running 10-12 ft. The boat can handle this and so much more under double reefed main and staysail but the crew is getting a little long in tooth. Therefore, we'll sit tight and wait on a Wx window.
PORT LUCAYA TO GRAND CAY HARBOR IN THE BERRY ISLANDS (58 NM)
December 16, 2011 Friday
Finally, we have a small break in the Wx with wind and seas coming down to comfortable levels: Wind ENE 15-18; seas 6'. We departed the marina at 0700 hrs for a crossing over to the Berry Islands. The plan is to anchor in Grand Cay Marina tonight and continue through the Northwest channel tomorrow to Chub Cay on the southern end of the Berry Islands. I have given up hope on trying to sail around the windward side of Eleuthera via the Northwest Passage. At this time of the year the Trade Winds and Frontal Systems are just too strong. I've been accused of sadistic tendencies but never have I been a masochist!! So, Plan B is to thread our way through the reef passages into Northeast Passage and Tongue of the Ocean, then continue into Exuma Sound via one of the reef passages. Looking at the charts there are several: Highborne, Ship Channel, etc.
We started out the day with a double reefed mainsail, staysail and reefed jib. The wind had veered into the East x South and our course was 140 T degrees. The closest we can point into the wind is 50 degrees so we held onto whatever course we could make and planned on making a tack to get back on the course line. In the end, the wind hauled even more into the ESE so we had to do some motor sailing to make up all the distance we fell off the course line but it was fun while it lasted. The boat sails beautifully as a cutter rig: mainsail, staysail, roller furling jib. We were averaging about six kts.
It is taking some time to get used to the motion of a monohull. We don't like being heeled over 12-15 degrees and jumping all over the place. It makes even the simplest task difficult. A Catamaran provides far more stability in the sailing conditions we have encountered. I have felt a little seasick on two occasions so far: coming out of Ft Lauderdale and crossing over the Gulf Stream and a little on the crossing over to the Berry Islands. It doesn't last long but it's there which is unusual for me. Also, Phyllis has had about the same experience. I have to believe that one becomes accustomed to the motion in due time. As we move farther South and get the Trade Winds on our Stern, the overall motion of the boat will improve.
We dropped anchor (25 deg 45' N x 77 deg. 53' W) @1936 hrs EST in very calm waters with 3ft under the keel. We draw 6 ft so the waters of the Bahamas are restricted to us in many places. An ideal draft in these waters would be under 4.5 ft. A Catamaran is perfect draft. All that said, the waters are crystal clear and a delight to behold. I can actually see the anchor on the bottom!! That hasn't happened since we were in the Caribbean over 33 years ago.
Finally, we have a small break in the Wx with wind and seas coming down to comfortable levels: Wind ENE 15-18; seas 6'. We departed the marina at 0700 hrs for a crossing over to the Berry Islands. The plan is to anchor in Grand Cay Marina tonight and continue through the Northwest channel tomorrow to Chub Cay on the southern end of the Berry Islands. I have given up hope on trying to sail around the windward side of Eleuthera via the Northwest Passage. At this time of the year the Trade Winds and Frontal Systems are just too strong. I've been accused of sadistic tendencies but never have I been a masochist!! So, Plan B is to thread our way through the reef passages into Northeast Passage and Tongue of the Ocean, then continue into Exuma Sound via one of the reef passages. Looking at the charts there are several: Highborne, Ship Channel, etc.
We started out the day with a double reefed mainsail, staysail and reefed jib. The wind had veered into the East x South and our course was 140 T degrees. The closest we can point into the wind is 50 degrees so we held onto whatever course we could make and planned on making a tack to get back on the course line. In the end, the wind hauled even more into the ESE so we had to do some motor sailing to make up all the distance we fell off the course line but it was fun while it lasted. The boat sails beautifully as a cutter rig: mainsail, staysail, roller furling jib. We were averaging about six kts.
It is taking some time to get used to the motion of a monohull. We don't like being heeled over 12-15 degrees and jumping all over the place. It makes even the simplest task difficult. A Catamaran provides far more stability in the sailing conditions we have encountered. I have felt a little seasick on two occasions so far: coming out of Ft Lauderdale and crossing over the Gulf Stream and a little on the crossing over to the Berry Islands. It doesn't last long but it's there which is unusual for me. Also, Phyllis has had about the same experience. I have to believe that one becomes accustomed to the motion in due time. As we move farther South and get the Trade Winds on our Stern, the overall motion of the boat will improve.
We dropped anchor (25 deg 45' N x 77 deg. 53' W) @1936 hrs EST in very calm waters with 3ft under the keel. We draw 6 ft so the waters of the Bahamas are restricted to us in many places. An ideal draft in these waters would be under 4.5 ft. A Catamaran is perfect draft. All that said, the waters are crystal clear and a delight to behold. I can actually see the anchor on the bottom!! That hasn't happened since we were in the Caribbean over 33 years ago.
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