July 25, 2013
We weighed anchor at 0912 hrs and sailed from Dere Bay (17-16.5' S; 179-21.5' E) on Koro Island to Savusavu (16-46.5' S; 179-20.1' E) on the northern island of Vanua Levu. The distance is about 35 nm and the winds were calm so we had to motor for the first three hours to get out of the wind shadow of Koro. By 1200 hrs we were able to set all sail: main, genoa and staysail and manage around 4.5 nm. Light SE'ly winds and less than 3' seas made for a very pleasant voyage. We sailed right up to Nakama Creek which is the entrance to Savusavu and at 1715 hrs picked up a mooring ball from Copra Shed Marina. There are three marinas in Sauvusauvu: Waitui, Copra Shed and Sauvusau Marina at the head of the bay.
Sauvusavu is an official Port of Entry so many of the yachts sailing from Samoa, Tonga and New Zealand choose it as their first port in Fiji. Essentially, it is a one-street town that provides many of the things that a cruising yacht needs after a long voyage. It has a Post Office, ATMs, supermarkets, banks, various Chinese and Indian stores, farmer's market and filling stations, many hardware stores and one small dedicated Yacht Shop. Also, it boasts some hot springs and has quite a few thermal springs emptying into the harbor. Reports indicate that there is enough geothermal energy in the area to power all of the island of Vanua Levu. Some of the locals cook their food over openings in the hot springs! It is well protected against winds and swells and has some triple helix moorings that can withstand cyclone force winds. A few cruisers choose to leave their boats here during the cyclone season which runs from November to May.
After Suva, which has everything a yacht needs except the clean waters and beautiful setting of Savusavu, it is anti-climatic but very pleasant to be here. Additionally, it provides a pivotal point of either sailing West around the Northern Part of Viti Levu or sailing East and South to the Lau group. All of Fiji is stunningly beautiful - so much so that many cruisers stay on season after season. There is no way to explore all the islands in a single season. This requires making a decision of what one wants to see. The Western side of Viti Levu has the international airport of Nadi and all the amenities for superyachts and cruisers that like more luxury in their cruising style. It is a place that will have everything a cruiser needs: sailmaker, engine and electrical repair, cyclone moorings and dug-out pits for long term storage, surfing, para sailing, it's all there. The Mamanucas and Yasawas host beautiful anchorages and exclusive resorts: "Blue Lagoon" was filmed at Matacawalevu in the Yasawas. Today cruise ships pour tourists onto the island to see it. The western side has seen tourism for over half a century so "traditional" Fiji is difficult, but not impossible to find. "Sevusevu" is not expected on most of the developed islands on the Western side.
The Eastern side of Fiji and the off-lying islands are very traditional and less frequented. Sevusevu is required for acceptance into village life and anchorages. The northern and southern Lau groups have just opened up to cruisers during the last two years. Before that it wasn't allowed to go there unless one had a letter from a relative. The Lau group is totally undeveloped to the point that they don't even have regular supply ships delivering the basic necessities. Therefore, cruisers calling at these islands bring sugar, flour, Yangona (Kava), newspapers and other necessities. There is a kind of trade/barter system which prevails as an interchange between villagers and yachties: fruit and fish for flour, sugar, etc. What I'm leading up to is the choice to sail the less traveled route to remote places on the eastern side of Fiji and then check out in Latoka on the Western side and sail for Vanuatu. Once we leave Sauvusavu and sail East, we will need to have everything onboard because there won't be any more provisions other than fruit and fish. At some point our internet service dongle from Vodaphone will not longer receive or transmit on a regular basis. Internet here in Fiji is fast and cheap: 12 gigs for $25. The service is better that in NZ at a fraction of the price.
We took a three hour bus trip from Savusavu to Labasa which is a hot and dusty sugar town: Sugar cane is Fiji's number one crop. It is an interesting way to see the interior of Vanua Levu. The road winds from the lush vegetation and copra plantations of Savusavu Bay over the mountains to the dry sugar-cane growing region of the north. On the way, there is the Waisali Rainforest Reserve that has several endemic species: Orange Dove, Red Shining Parrot, Collard Lory and the Fiji Tree Frog. Our next trip will be to take a bus to Buca Habor on the south side of the island. I'm waiting for a bilge pump to arrive from the States on Tuesday or Wednesday so we have some time to travel around. There are buses that go everywhere and are very cheap. Riding these open air buses with the locals is very enjoyable. One gets to see all the goods they are taking to the market or things they have purchased with a vast array of clothing colors. There are million dollar smiles and friendliness everywhere.
Sometime next week we will set sail for Fawn Harbor (16-43.5' S; 179-43.7' E) and Viani Bay (16-46.6' S; 179-56.5' E) which are to the East of Savusavu. _
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