Vuda Point Marina

August 24 to September 3, 2013

The trip from Viani Bay to Vuda Point Marina was 230 nm.  There was no wind so we had to motor almost the whole way.  Under most conditions, I drop sail and wait for wind, however, here in Fiji it can go from calm to 25 kts in a very short time.  During the motoring episode, the alternator bracket broke for the second time so we cancelled Musket Cove and moved into Vuda Point Marina.  Good choice for repairs:  It was taken off and repaired in one day.  The job was excellent and the cost very reasonable:  $160 US.

The western or leeward side of Fiji is dry, hot, and humid.  It has been developed for tourism over the last 60 or 70 years and doesn't represent the traditional customs of Eastern Fiji.  It is the land of Super Yachts, Resorts and Brook Shields' "Blue Lagoon".   Lautoka is the Sugar Capital of Fiji.  Lots of sugar cane and an East Indian population that came under indentured servant contracts.  There is a gigantic sugar refinery that chugs out black smoke and ash that is detested by yachts because it stains everything.  For that reason, very few yachts spend anytime in Lautoka.  It's a great place to shop and provision but usually done by bus or taxi from a distance. Today, this region of Fiji is a source of conflict between the native Fijian population and the East Indians.  At one point the East Indians outnumbered the indigenous population.  There have been several coups after elections that placed an Indian prime-minister in power.  At present, there is a military dictatorship running the country.  It seems to be liberal enough and the country is prospering. Elections are being scheduled for next October.  The East Indians are only found in population centers where there is work.  Outside, in the traditional villages, one rarely finds them.  Being a foreigner, I have no knowledge just what the Fijians think about it or how the East Indians are faring.  No doubt, there are many beautiful places on this side of the island but we will move on to Vanuatu without having seen them.  There is no way to see all the beautiful places in Fiji in a single sailing season.  We have seen enough to say that it is our favorite place to date.  The Fijians are a most wonderful and friendly people.

On Tuesday September 3rd, we will sail for Anatom, Vanuatu (20-14.2' S; 169-46.6' E):  480 nm.  It should be a nice sail as the winds will be from the SE and our course of 252T puts us on a broad reach.  For those that are less savvy about points of sail:  wind is just aft of the beam which is a nice point of sailing.

Vanuatu is far less developed on most of the islands so we won't have internet service until we reach Port Vila.   At that time I will update the voyage and impressions of Anatom, Tanna and Erromango.  The most interesting island will be Tanna.  There is an active volcano and a strange cult called "The John Fromm Cargo Cult".  Essentially, this is a cult dedicated to a love affair for America.  During WWII, the Americans built several airbases in the area and the local population observed that black and white Americans worked together equally.  They were treated with respect and paid for their labor.  The British and French had always treated them like slaves and second class citizens.  "Black birding" which is a form of kidnapping and indentured labor was common in the South Pacific Islands.  Young men were shanghaied and sent to work on sugar plantations in Australia and New Zealand:  Most never returned.  The blatant criminality, exploitation and inhumanity of white entrepreneurs in this area was a standard of the time that that valued dark skinned people as second class citizens or slaves to be used up for financial gain.  The "White Only" immigration policy of Australia was in effect until the middle half of the last century.

I close with a pertinent quote from "Sopranino" that was written by Patrick Ellam and Colin Mudie in 1954.  At that time they were the smallest yacht - just under 20' - to have crossed the Atlantic:

     "It is a funny life.  One day an island will rise out of the sea ahead of you, like the fairy castle in a child's story-book.  Within two days you are a part of that place.  You have your own pet restaurant and bars; people hail you as your walk down the street, and as time goes on you get to know all about the private life of the girl behind the counter in the sweetshop.
     Then suddenly, one day, you sail away.  And all that life and all those people sink into the sea behind you, as if they had never been.  Then for a while you will be alone on the sea, seemingly motionless, until the next place comes up and you start all over again."