BUTANG ISLANDS, THAILAND

  

On December 30, 2014 we cleared out of Telaga Harbor (06-21.988’ N x 99-41.095’ E) on Langkawi Island at 1200 hrs for the Butang Islands which are some 24 nm to the NW of Langkawi.  These islands are part of the Tarutao National Marine Park.  There are many smaller islands in the group and all are made up of granite.  We were to visit only four of the larger ones.  We were sailing in company with our friends on “Starship”.  This is one of their favorite cruising grounds and they know it well.  Gary’s passion is sailing, fishing and snorkeling.

We arrived off Ko Lipe (06-29.685’ N x 099-17.778’ E) at 1830 hrs and dropped anchor in 50’ of water depth with 180 ft of chain out on a sandy/mud bottom.  The plan was to spend New Years Eve here as, supposedly, the fireworks have been spectacular in the past.  Our friends had reported giant balloons, carrying fiery tails, being sent up on the NE winds at the southern end of the island on Pattaya beach.  For this reason, we anchored on the northern side of the island at Sunset beach to avoid any mishaps from errant burning balloons.  This anchorage did not prove to be that comfortable due to its exposure to the NE wind and the strong currents that run through the area.  Nevertheless, it was more than tolerable.

In Thailand, all of the National Marine Parks have some mooring buoys that are available on a first-come-first serve basis.  They are large soft plastic mooring balls with a blue stripe and trailing line with one or two eyes.  They carry the King’s emblem and are known as the King Mooring Buoys.  One has to treat them with caution and inspect them when possible by diving down and seeing what is there.  Also, we reverse the engine and give a good pull to see if they will take the strain.  In general, they can be trusted and are inspected on a ??? basis. By setting an anchor alarm with a short radius, one has time to react if something goes awry. There were no mooring available at Sunset Beach on Ko Lipe.

Ko Lipe is the only inhabited island in the Butang group.  It has resorts, restaurants, pubs, discos, souvenir shops, grocery stores, etc, etc.  There are so many Europeans, Aussies and Americans here that one would think they are somewhere else other than Thailand.  The island is a ferry and speed boat terminal.  It’s just jammed packed with “white bodies”.  Here we have the sun worshipers and hedonists:  old men with good looking Thai women.  It’s a party town and getting ready to bring in the New Year 2015.  At one time, there were “sea gypsies” living on these islands but they have been absorbed or moved on.  There are two hospitals on this small island to attend to all the real or imagined illnesses of the tourists.  If one doesn’t have an illness, then, perhaps, a Thai massage is just the thing to make one’s day.  Maybe a fortune teller to bolster up your spirits.  As we walk along the beautiful white sand beaches of Ko Lipe, I come upon a Rastafarian Restaurant/Bar sporting all Jamaican colors and jamming Reggae music.  At the entrance, there is a gigantic ten foot penis with a circumcised red painted tip and the message “One Love” running down the shaft:  I’m starting to feel a little better.  I am told that the owner, who is Thai, played with Bob Marley at some point in past time.

We’ve walked the whole island since our friends were anxious to show us everything.  It’s been a long day and, Phyllis and myself, decide to stay on the boat and enjoy the fireworks vicariously.  At this point, we aren’t sure there will be any since rumors have been circulating that the Military Dictatorship has promulgated a law forbidding any fireworks on this New Year’s eve.  The only problem with a stupid last minute law is that, everyone that has been buying fireworks and storing them away for this special occasion, will set them off overtly or surreptiously at the magic hour.  That is just what happens and, from our boat, we see fireworks set off from places all around the island with the epicenter at Pattaya Beach.

January 1, 2015 Thursday 

                                                                                                

At 1030 hrs, we heave up anchor and move over to Ko Adang which is just 2-1/2 nm to the north of Ko Lipe. 

We pick up one of the King’s Moorings (06-31.900’ N x 99-16.911’ E) and settle in.  We are on the western side of the island and protected from the NE wind and swell.  There is a strong current running parallel to the island.  This island is uninhabited with lush rain forest and tall mountain (2000 ft).  There is a fresh water spring with a water pipe coming out of it just south of our mooring.  The water is potable with showers and laundry possible.   At one time, there was a small community of sea gypsies living here but all traces have vanished.  This is a very popular area for diving and snorkeling.  Because the current is so strong, they have set up safety lines with floats.  It is  here that we witness just how many tourists are being ferried out in the “Long Tails”.  They are open wooden fishing boats with a canopy for protection against the Sun and rain.  These “Long Tails” are uniquely Thai in the fact that they mount their engines at the canoe stern and run a long shaft with a propeller at the end.  This shaft is at least 8-10 ft long and they are able to move it up and down by leverage exerted on the engine handle and throttle at the stern.  If they see a fishing line or net in the water, just push down on the engine handle and the propeller comes out of the water.  It’s easy to spot them because the propeller is always churning up white water just below the surface.  They are quite beautiful in their lines and sheer.  The Stem Post , at the bow, rises several feet into the air and has a “special necklace” of assorted rope and cloth colors dangling from it.  These boatmen are skillful and good fishermen.  This design of graceful wooden boat exists throughout Indonesia and Malaysia but only the Thais use the adapted “Long Tail”.  Anyway, there were at least fifty of these “Long Tails” coming towards us at our mooring:  all carrying “white bodies” of one shape or another.  Into the water they go:  hanging onto the safety lines for dear life.  The current is ripping along at two plus knots.  I’m observing the effects of the current on the swimmers from the boat and I see a group of monkeys, on the beach, watching them for different reasons.  Ko Adang is a beautiful place.

January 3, 2015 Saturday

At 1512 hrs, we let go the mooring lines and motored over to the southern side of Butang Island about 6nm to the west of Ko Adang. At 1700 hrs, we picked up one of the King’s Moorings (06-31.009’ N x 099-10.717’ E).  At this time of day there wasn’t much “Long Tail” traffic so we had the place to ourselves.  There is a very pretty island called “Lokoi” or Ko Rok Roy depending on who is spelling it.  The Thais have a hard time distinguishing between the “L” and “R” so all kinds of spelling deviations come up.  This southern side of Butang Is is isolated and stunningly beautiful.

January 4, 2015  Sunday

At 1348 hrs, we let go the mooring lines for the Ranger Station on Ko Rawi: 2-1/2 nm to the north.  At 1424, we picked up another one of the King’s Moorings just off the Ranger Station.  Of all the anchorages we visited, this anchorage is the most secure and calm (06-32.518’ N x 99-11.418’ E).  I did some snorkeling here but have had a cold so it has been difficult to compensate the ear drums when diving.  The water is very clear with beautiful coral.  This anchorage would be good in either monsoon.  This will be the last island we visit in the Butangs this time around.  When we come south in May or June, they offer the possibility of a secure overnight anchorage during the SW monsoon.