PENANG

It is called the “Pearl of the Orient” and deserves the epithet. In 2008, it was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status.  In 2009, the trendy NY Times voted it  as one of the 44 “must see” places, maybe, they got it right.  The fact is,  this is one fabulous city.  Georgetown, the capital of this State didn’t start off so well.  Its early history is filled  with the deaths of the first English settlers:  it became known as “the white man’s grave” because of the rampant malaria.  There were enough Malays, Indian and Chinese merchants and laborers to make up for all the deaths occurring in the East India Company’s employee roster.  One sees that the majority, then and now, are Chinese.  The beautiful architecture of the old part of Georgetown is mostly Chinese.  The Indian and the Islamic influence abound and one part of the old city is called “Little India”.  Malays have their mosques of worship which are always painted yellow.  What is left of the English is largely in ruins but there are a few outstanding Victorian mansions.

As with so many great cities, the smells, sights and tasting of great food comes from street stalls.  You won’t get it in the luxury hotels.  It’s happening all around you.  For the really squeamish, there are more sanitary places to eat with good food but we have never had a problem with eating out of the street stalls.  Some of these places are so well known by the locals that you have to stand in line for quite some time to get served: it’s worth it.

What makes Georgetown so special is that so much of the original architecture has been preserved without the intrusion of modern monstrosities. They are there but are held at a minimum.  Now that the city has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, everyone is scrambling to restore those buildings that would have been demolished a short time before.  The future is bright and getting better for Georgetown.  There are many expats and backpackers in the old part of the city.  I met a Peruvian that was selling bead jewelry on the street.  He spends 6 months in Georgetown and the other 6 months in China.  When we were travelling our base was Spain, but here in SE Asia another world opens up to the young and vigorous:  Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, China, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia.

If there is any downside to visiting a fabulous historical place, it’s the fact that every would-be entrepreneur  is there trying to sell you something.  They aren’t pushy or persistent but, after awhile, one becomes groggy eyed looking at the panoply of gadgets offered.  The one useful item is an umbrella:  it rains frequently.  Need  one with Chinese paintings, Indian mantras, pictures of Buddha or Western decadence?  It’s all here.

We spent Christmas at the marina and had our Christmas meal at an Irish bar.  Christmas is big is Malaysia.  They have Christmas music, caroling, trees and decorations.  It would be difficult to distinguish between an upscale mall in the States and Straits Quay.

As with all great places, a time comes when one is saturated with the sights and sounds:  Give it a break and return at a later date.

We will rendezvous with our friends, Gary and Paiwan on “Starship” in Langkawi which is about 65 nm North from Penang.