ANNAPOLIS, MD

ANNAPOLIS, MD

JULY 23 – 31, 2017

At 0806 hrs on July 23^rd, we departed Spring Cove Marina (38-20.088 N; 76-27.623 W) on Solomon Island for Annapolis, Md: 40 miles distant.  The purpose of going to Annapolis was to have Nathan Horton, from SeaFrost Refrigeration Systems, spec- out our system and make recommendations on the installation of a new DC SeaFrost System.  The 1991 Valiant 40 came with an engine driven SeaFrost  System that has worked very well over the years.  The main drawback to this system is that the Main Engine has to be run two hours per day to keep things cold.  Additionally, since the cooling isn’t constant, between refrigeration charges, it is difficult to keep frozen food from having a slight thaw out.  The DC Refrigeration System will keep the temperature constant within a few degrees.  The plus side of the Engine Driven System is that it keeps the batteries charged up because the engine is being run two hours per day.  The downside of the DC Refrigeration System is that, with two compressors running, the battery draw is 120 amps per day.  We have a D400 Wind Generator and a 240W Solar Panel that will put some of these needed amps into the battery bank but, I believe, we will have to occasionally run the engine to make up the difference.  Our battery bank is 600 amp hours and we have never had a problem with batteries running low.  In the end, a reliable DC system is the better choice for keeping frozen and refrigerated food at optimum temperatures.  Whenever we have to motor, the alternator is putting amps into the system.

On July 25^th, we shifted over to the Bert Jabin repair yard in Back Creek (38-57.710N; 76-28.917W) and Nathan Horton came aboard to spec-out the system.  The end result was that the two existing SeaFrost systems (Engine Driven and Shore Assisst) would have to be removed in order to install a new SeaFrost DC Refrigeration System.  Also, some additional insulation would have to be added.  It is a big job and will be expensive:  just how much? I don’t know yet. This is the difference between buying an older boat and a newer one.  The newer one will take a lot more money upfront but the older one will require more maintenance and replacing systems as they become obsolete or wear out.  I still think that the better value is found in a well maintained older boat.

After the consultation,  we were ready to set sail for New London, CT on Thursday July 27^th, however, a severe Wx Warning was given for the Mid-Atlantic States and New Jersey Coast.  We plan to set sail on Monday July31st.  In the meantime, we have always liked Annapolis.  The Annapolis Yacht Basin has good moorings, pump out and Water Boat, showers, laundry, and a water taxi.  It is a safe place to be and, at $35 per day, very reasonable.  The old historic district is interesting with lots of interesting places to see.  The US Naval Academy has one of the best maritime museums we have seen.  They have a collection of what were called Dockyard Models dating from 1650 until the end of the golden age of great tall ship building in the early 19^th century.  These small scale models were made up as a guide for planning  the  actual construction of the vessels.  They were, mostly, for the construction of naval war ships.  The museum claims that it is the best collection in the world;  there is one in London that rivals it. 

For those that choose to anchor, there are many creeks that afford a safe place to be for an extended period of time.  Back Creek is one possibility and has Water Taxi Service and Pump Out, or one can use their own dinghy:  these can be tied up almost anywhere.  Every street that ends at the harbor is a dinghy dock!

We will return at the end of September to have the new DC Refrigeration System installed and attend the Annapolis Boat Show on October 5^th.  After that, along with all the other boats heading South for the Winter, we, too, will be in that group.

PORTSMOUTH, VA TO ANNAPOLIS, MD

PORTSMOUTH, VA TO ANNAPOLIS, MD

JULY 21-23, 2017

The distance from Portsmouth to Annapolis is 140 miles up the Chesapeake Bay.  We had one stop to make at Solomon Is, which is about 100 nm from Portsmouth enroute to Annapolis.  We departed North Landing at 0645 hrs on the July 19^th.  The wind was light but we managed to motor sail to the Great Wilcomico River and dropped anchor at 1936 hrs at Sandy Pt in 16 ft water depth with 90 ft chain out: 37-49.444 N; 76-18.626 W.  It was a long day and we covered about 60 miles. This is a quiet anchorage with good protection from S-NW winds but exposed to the North and East.

The following morning on July 22^nd, we heaved up anchor and got underway for Solomon Is.: about 40 miles distant.  It was a beautiful day on the Chesapeake but not much wind so we had to motor sail.  We arrived at Spring Cove Marina on Soloman Is. at 1545 hrs.  There was a thunderstorm approaching but, fortunately, it passed us on by.  Spring Cove Marina is up a winding creek and very well protected but expensive for transients.  Their charge is $2.50 per ft of boat length: $100 for a 40 ft boat.

We spent a pleasant evening with Bob and Anne, owners of a Valiant 40 named Baloo.  Bob is a superb craftsman and has made that Valiant 40 a boat to be admired.  Engine installation, fuel tank installation, DC refrigeration system installation, steering system rebuild, he has put all of this in by himself.  The work is meticulous and a thing of mechanical beauty to behold.

The following morning at 0800 hrs, we departed Spring Cove Marina for Annapolis, MD. about 40 miles distant.  We started off with a very pleasant W wind 12-15 kts but, as the morning progressed, it died out and we had to resort to motor sailing.  At 1430 hrs in the afternoon, we got hit with one of the most violent thunderstorms we have encountered so far.  The winds were in excess 50+ kts with blinding rain; the seas built up quickly to 5 ft.  There was a Car Carrier Ship on my stern and blowing the danger signal.  The wind was so strong that it heeled the Valiant 40 to the stbd. side and almost put the lee rail in the water.  The Car Carrier Ship passed me, about 600 ft off, on my port side.  Once I had the ship out of the way, it was just a matter of choosing the most favorable angle to take on the wind and seas.  Other than the ship, there was never any time that the Valiant 40 wasn’t able to handle the existing conditions.  It was just unnerving to have so much wind and rain pelting us.  Our foul weather gear was no longer waterproof so we were soaked.  Fortunately, these thunderstorms don’t last too long and, this one, started to abate in about 20 minutes.  In the entire six years of the circumnavigation, we never encountered winds that strong.  That includes being hove-to off the East African coast in a short lived SW Buster.

At 1730 hrs, we dropped anchor at the South Anchorage of Annapolis in 15 ft water depth with 90 ft of chain out:  38-58.532 N; 76-28.359 W.  I would have continued on into the harbor to pick up a mooring but we had a rain squall coming so we anchored.  In the early morning hours of July 24^th another very strong thunderstorm hit us at the anchorage.  I saw the lightning and decided to pay out another 50 ft of chain.  Just as we finished the wind and rain hit us.  I guess the wind was at least 40 kts but it only lasted about thirty minutes.  When we heaved anchor and moved to the Annapolis Harbor Mooring field, we were informed that the thunderstorm had spawned a tornado just one mile north of us.  We picked up Mooring #5 at at 1030 hrs on July 24^th: 38-58.513 N; 76-29.005 W   These moorings are strong and safe under most conditions.  The charge is $35 per day but include showers, laundry and toilets at the Harbor Masters Office. 

ORIENTAL, NC TO PORTSMOUTH, VA

ORIENTAL, NC TO PORTSMOUTH, VA

JULY 16-19, 2017

On Sunday July 16, 2017 at 0720 hrs, the water level in Whittaker Creek had come up 12 inches so we got underway for Norfolk, VA.  I had been talking to local yachtsmen about the best way to get out so I had an idea of where the deeper water was.  Since we had just had two coats of antifouling put on the bottom, I didn’t want to rub it off on the soft mud.  The local knowledge was good; we only touched bottom briefly one time; a great relief to be out of there.!  The ICW inside distance form Oriental, NC to Norfolk, VA is 160 miles.  Motoring up the Intracoastal Waterway at 5.5 kts, a boat can make 55 miles nm in 10 hours:  this is equivalent to 63 statute miles.  The distances on the ICW are measured in statute miles; the boat speed is in knots which equates to nautical miles: 1 Nautical Mile = 1.15 Statute Miles.  What all this means is that it would take about 2.5 days to reach Norfolk and we would have to anchor out two nights.                

This section of the ICW is remote and very beautiful.  It has abundant wildlife, especially birds.  Ospreys build their nests on the ICW numbered navigation Day Markers.  One hears them peeping as the boat passes them.  The Bald Eagle is prevalent in this area: we saw four of them.  Although I prefer the outside route around Cape Hatteras, I would take this section of the ICW once again and, probably will, on our trip back down south in the early Fall.

The first night we anchored in Pungo Creek in 10 ft of water with 70 ft of chain out:  35-33.728 N; 76-28.515W.  This is a very quiet well protected anchorage and provides a convenient stop before entering the Alligator River/Pungo River Canal: a twenty mile stretch of narrow waterway with no anchoring possible.  We had another vessel with us, Aussie Mate, going in the same direction.  They had the advantage of carrying a 4.8 ft draft; just perfect for these waters.  

On July 17^th,  we got underway at 0836 hrs.  We had delayed sailing at 0700 hrs because of light rain.  We had no specific anchorage in mind and motored along at 5,5 kts.  At 1515 hrs we got hit with a thunderstorm and blinding rain.  We were in a good position to anchor outside the channel and wait for it to pass.  Also, there was the Alligator River Bridge about one mile ahead that had to open for us to pass through.  By 1630, conditions had improved enough for us to heave up anchor and clear the bridge.  Another squall was approaching so, after clearing the bridge, we anchored at Sandy Pt. anchorage in 12 ft water depth with 80 ft of chain out: 35-56.005 N; 76-00.506 W.  This anchorage is exposed to S –SE wind but has good enough protection the SW-NW.  If conditions are blustery, it is possible to wind your way further into the creek and be well protected.  This is the first time in our circumnavigation that we have experienced the building  of afternoon thunderstorms along the SE Coast of the US.  They can be particularly violent, with winds from 30-50 kts and torrential blinding rain, which becomes very dangerous in restricted waters.

On July 18^th, we heaved up anchor at 0700 hrs and got underway for Coinjock Marina, NC: 36-20.987 N; 75-56.888 W.  This marina is famous for its 32oz Prime Rib Steak – an obscene thing to say the very least.  The population of Coinjock is 37.  There are two marina there; Coinjock is the better one as the Midway Marina is undergoing refurbishment.  Business is entirely dependent on the North/South movement of yachts transiting the ICW in the early Summer and early Fall.  The marina has good facilities:  showers, electricity, water, restaurant, small grocery store.

We left Coinjock Marina for Portsmouth, VA at 0800 hrs of July 19^th.  Portsmouth is a small city on the Western side of the Elizabeth River and Norfolk is on the Eastern side.  The city of Portsmouth offers free docking at two different places close by to each other:  North Landing and South Landing.  Both are in the old historical district which is well preserved and charming.  After a  long day of motoring, we arrived at North Landing at 1700 hrs: 36-50.299 N; 76-17.788 W.  Our main purpose for stopping in Portsmouth was to meet a fellow Valiant 40 owner who had been instrumental in providing me with pictures and advise, on engine installation, when we installed the Beta 50 in Phuket, Thailand.  His detailed photos and drawings made it possible to instruct and guide the Thai workers, who spoke no English, through the difficult process of modifying the engine bed and installing the Beta 50 diesel engine.  He provided almost 200 photos of his installation!

This is the second time we have stopped in Portsmouth.  The first time was over five years ago when we were headed down the ICW to Ft Lauderdale.  In addition to the lovely old historical homes, it has a plethora of excellent eateries:  something there for everyone.  After meeting with David Bridges on Wednesday, the town of Portsmouth gave a band concert at the North Landing.  Being on the yacht, we had the best seats in the place including cold beer! 

We left the lovely town of Portsmouth at 0645 hrs on the morning of July 21^st.  Our next stop would be Spring Cove Marina at Solomon Island in order to meet another Valiant 40 owner who had given me information on Beta engine installation when I was in Phuket, Thailand.   

BEAUFORT AND ORIENTAL, NC

 BEAUFORT AND ORIENTAL, NC

JUNE 29 TO JULY 16, 2017

Beaufort, NC is a small one street town that depends on tourism and fishing for income.  Good restaurants and interesting stores along that one street about one quarter mile long.  There is an Olive Oil store with over 100 different varieties of Olive Oil, Balsamic Vinegar, Wine Vinegar.  One can sample all these at your leisure without anyone pressuring you into buying something.  The only hiccup will be your stomach: it can only handle so much olive oil and balsamic vinegar before it rebels.   There is a most excellent Maritime Museum there that has few rivals for its size and location.

There are two ways to get to Norfolk, VA:  the outside route around Cape Hatteras (249 nm) and the ICW (177 miles).  With good Wx, I would choose to take the outside route because it can be sailed and not so demanding on attention to the helm, and the cost of diesel.  We needed to go to Oriental, NC for some needed routine maintenance.  There is an excellent boatyard there named Sailcraft.  The rates are reasonable, the staff friendly and they encourage DIY.  The only drawback is getting into and out of Whittaker Creek.  It is shallow:    anything over 5.5 ft is going to touch bottom somewhere; we draw 6ft.  The mud is soft so no damage is done other than taking the antifouling off the bottom.  Our friends of Camomile chose the outside route.

Oriental is only 25 miles from Beaufort.  We got underway at 0930 hrs on June 29th and arrived off the entrance buoys at 1445.  After a few groundings, we made fast at Sailcraft at 1515 hrs.  Immediately, we saw on the hard - Tamure, a Valiant 40 belonging to our friends Scott & Kitty.  Another Valiant 40 was being worked on by a DIYer and across the way was a Valiant 42.  That’s more Valiants than we have seen in the entire circumnavigation.

We hauled out on June 30^th and remained on the hard until July 12^th.  We accomplished quite a few things:  1) two coats of Petit Ultima SR Antifouling, Buff and Wax Hull, Touch up scratches on Awlgrip paint on hull, New Anodes and Grease MaxProp, New Life lines, Rigging inspected and tuned, Put new bearings in D400 Wind Generator, Change gear oil, engine oil and spark plugs and fuel filter on Yamaha outboard engine, Change engine oil, lube oil and anode on Beta 50 diesel engine, Remove Heat Exchanger stack and O-rings on Beta 50, Install new hot water heater.

By the time we finished this and were back in the water, the water level in Whittaker Creek was too low to get  out: we didn’t want to rub off the new antifouling on the keel by trying to get out so we waited for the water level to rise 12 inches.  Whittaker Creek is basically a wind driven phenomenon:  it undergoes a small horizontal movement of water with tidal changes but very little vertical rise and fall.  A SW wind will cause the water levels to fall and a North or East Wind will cause them to rise.  If the wind is calm, the water levels will rise a little.  I’m sure there are some other influences there but I don’t know what they are.  Anyway, we were trapped in Whittaker Creek until a rise in water levels.  Day after day, I watched the water levels rise and fall on the dock pilings:  3 to 4 inches at most.  Finally on Saturday July 15^th and
Sunday July 16^th, the water came up 12 inches; we are out of here!  Left the dock at 0720 hrs and free of Whittaker Creek at 0745:  touched bottom briefly one time.

Oriental considers itself the Sailing Capital of North Carolina.  This may or may not be true but what is certain is that it is a boating community.  Just about everything is tied to the yachting/fishing community.  It is one of the most friendly, welcoming places anyone is likely to visit.  Unpretentious is the best word to describe the place:  the ostentatious display of wealth is not evident;  Donald Trump would not fit in here!  Oriental is considered the Yankee Capital of Pamlico Sound because so many Northerners have migrated here.  The place is a little too remote and gets too cold in the winter but we sure do enjoy coming here.

CHARLESTON TO SOUTHPORT, WRIGHTSVILLE, BEAUFORT, NC

CHARLESTON TO SOUTHPORT, WRIGHTSVILLE, BEAUFORT, NC

JUNE 22-23, 2017

We departed the Charleston anchorage at 1124 hrs on June 22^nd bound for Georgetown, SC which was only 23 nm distant.  The Wx report was for light S-SW winds at 10 kts and 2 ft seas.  About half way there, we decided to continue onto Southport, NC which was 130 nm from Charleston.  The Wx report indicated that winds would be favorable but increasing over the next day.  We sailed on. 

At 0900 hrs on June 23^rd, we took in sail to wait on the Flood Tide at the Southport Jetties which didn’t begin until 1530 hrs.  The wind was steadily increasing to 20 kts and kicking up a 5-6 sea so there was no way to enter with wind against current.  We had to wait.  The currents run strongly coming out of Southport.  At 1530 hrs we started into the jetties but found out that there was no room at the marinas in Southport so we took a berth at Bald Head Is.  Once we got through the protected jetty leading into Bald Head, the berth I was given was beam on to the wind which was gusting above 20 kts.  It was the most challenging docking that I have ever done!  I still don’t know how I managed to do it without damaging the boat.

Once we were safely docked, the wind continued to increase to 30 kts and we were pinned hard against the dock so there was no possibility of leaving until it abated.  A sizable part of Bald Island is National Park Land.  Transportation is by golf card as there are very few cars allowed on the island.  We rented a golf cart and toured the island.  It is a beautiful place with sand dunes and small coastal forests.  The homes on the island belong to those that were able to buy land in bybone days and build spectacular seaside homes.  The one drawback here is that the area is frequented by tropical storms.  To insure a home here must be very expensive.  We had really wanted to go to Southport because it is a charming small town where many of the Wilmington River pilots live.  It has some beautiful old homes on the ICW.

On June 25^th, the wind had subsided enough that I was able to get off the berth at Bald Head and continue onto Beaufort, NC  (93 miles)via the inside route known as the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway).  We were travelling with some British friends on a yacht called Camomile.  We had first met them in Phuket, Thailand and met up at various places along the way.  The ICW is well protected against seas but can be shallow in places and demands constant attention at the helm.  On weekends, the Waterway Cowboys make life uncomfortable for a sailing boat.  They have the money to buy big motor yachts but lack any sense of common curtesy or seamanship.

We decided to anchor at Wrightsville, NC (25 nm) from Southport for the night.  At 1530, we dropped anchor in 15 water depth with 90 ft chain out on a sand/mud bottom in position: 34-12.402 N; 77-47.939 W.  This is a very well protected anchorage with room enough for many boats.  It was a relief to leave the Weekend Warriors out in the ICW but they were starting to get hungry and thinning out.  The following day was spent walking around the Wrightsville area.  Outside of restaurants, a few stores and the seashore, there is not much there.  I suppose that for a family looking to get sun burned on a sandy beach, it is as beautiful as any other place along the North Carolina coast.

On June 27^th, we departed Wrightsville for the outside route via Masonboro Jetties.  It was wonderful to be out of the ICW and back at sea.  The Wx was good.  We had light winds and had to motor sail at times.  At 1924 hrs we entered the Beaufort Jetties and proceeded to Taylor Creek where we anchored at 2024 in 15 ft water depth with 60 ft chain out.  Shortly afterwards, our friends from Camomile anchored in front of us.  

JACKSONVILLE, FL TO CHARLESTON, SC

JACKSONVILLE, FL TO CHARLESTON, SC

JUNE 18 – 20, 2017

We departed the Marina at Ortega Landing (30-16.632 N; 81-42.732 W) at 0945 hrs.  The timing was set for the opening of the Main St Bridge at 1200 hrs.  There was a strong Ebb Tide so we made good time after passing under the bridge.  By 1500 hrs, the tide had turned against us and was flooding in.  It took us two hrs to negotiate the last six miles.  At 1745, we set the main and jib and started the trip to Charleston, SC: 197 nm.  The Wx was very good with winds out of the SE at 10-15 kts.  As the wind veered into the SSE-S, we poled out the genoa and continue sailing.  We arrived off the Charleston Sea buoy at 0700 hrs on June 20^th and dropped anchor in Charleston Harbor at 1143 hrs in 18 ft water depth with 130 ft chain out: 32-46.464 N; 79-56.814 W.

Charleston is one of those lovely old well preserved historical cities.  Dedicated to tourism, it is loved to death.  What is striking when walking about the historical district is the number of homeless destitute individuals found in in the entrances to empty store fronts?  It is out of sync with the opulence and materialism being display all around them.  It is not possible, for me, to just walk by them and pretend they are not there.  I ask myself, How did it happen?  What events in life caused them to give up everything? How did they fall through the Safety Net?  Does it exist?  Is help available?  Do they want it?  Is there an underlying addiction for which our society doesn’t have adequate solutions unless money is involved.  I am saddened and confused by what I see but I walk on by and, in a few minutes, they are forgotten.

Charleston is just a stop on our way north.  We have had torrential rain but the Sun is out and it is time to go; next stop Southport, NC: 130 miles.

JACKSONVILLE, FL

JACKSONVILLE, FL

JUNE 14-18, 2017

We set out to sea at 0900 hrs on June 13^th, 2017 for Jacksonville, FL: 170 nm.  This would be an overnight passage.  The Wx forecast was good with light winds and seas under 2 ft.  Our daughter would meet us at the Ortega River Marina Landing on June 16^th.

The overnight sail was very pleasant.  It is so much more pleasant to be sailing outside rather than motoring the ICW and having to monitor shoal areas and, generally, hand steering.  Also, most power yachts give no quarter and come buy leaving a huge wake behind them that rocks the boat unmercifully.

Its about 23 miles from the mouth of the St Johns River to Jacksonville;  the currents in the river are strong during the flood/ebb cycle.  We arrived off the St John River Sea buoy at 1300 hrs with a Flood Tide.  At 1715, we dropped anchor at Exchange Island (30-19.415 N;81-36.837 W).  There is construction work being done on the Main St Bridge and the next opening wasn’t until 2000 hrs; this would have been too late to continue on to the Ortega River. This is a very pleasant and well protected anchorage but has lots of crab pots to negotiate.  There were two other unattended yachts, on moorings, in the area.  The anchorage is big enough to accommodate several boats.  We anchored in 20 ft of water with 100 ft of chain out.

On Friday June 16^th, we heaved up anchor at 1100 hrs in order to make the 1200 hr opening of the Main St Bridge. It is about five miles from the Main St Bridge to the Ortega River.  The entrance to the Ortega River is shallow and we could feel the keel of Solstice ploughing through the mud in a few places; the mud is very soft.  We made fast at the Marina at Ortega Landing at 1330 hrs: 30-16.632 N; 81-42.731 W.  This marina is very friendly and welcoming to cruisers; first time guests get the first day free.  They seem to have several events scheduled during the year.  On Saturday, they had a STEAKOUT with unlimited drinks and music for $15.  We met several cruisers that had decided to make Ortega Landing their home.  There was one couple that was 84 years old! Other than the shoal water, we would gladly return there for a few days.

On Friday, our daughter arrived in the late afternoon and we had a very nice meal in Avondale which is very close to Ortega Marina Landing.  We spent a good part of Saturday with our family.  They left for Pensacola in the afternoon.  It was great to have spent a lot of quality time with our granddaughter after so many years of being away.

Now it is time to get on with the serious business of heading North to CT.  Next stop will be Charleston, SC: 200 nm distant

CAPE CANAVERAL

CAPE CANAVERAL

JUNE 12-14, 2017

The trip up to Cape Canaveral from Lake Worth was, mostly, motor sailing.  The winds were light and the seas under 2 ft.  We had lots of dolphins jumping around the boat which delighted our granddaughter.  We entered the port and took a berth at Blue Points Marina at 1654 hrs.  This marina doesn’t have much to recommend it:  it serves as a fish cleaning station for private and charter boats.  The fish cleaning procedure is to fillet the fish, poke out the eyeballs so the carcass will sink and throw it in the water.  Sometimes they forget to poke out the eyeballs so the carcass floats around on the water and starts to stink.  Usually, the pelicans clean up everything.  These pelican squadrons are messy and leave droppings everywhere on the floating docks.  SLICK AS SHIT is apropos here.

Other than the Kenney Space Center and the Canaveral National Seashore, there isn’t much else in the immediate area.  All the stores and supplies are located at Coco Beach.  We rented a car and drove over to the Kennedy Space Center.  There is a lot to see in a day so one has to choose the most interesting place to start.  Ideally, this should be done in two days.  We took the bus tour and went to the Saturn V Complex: truly impressive.  By the time this was over and we returned to the Visitor Center Complex, no one wanted to continue seeing more so we returned the car and went back to the boat.  I would have liked to spend another day there but our granddaughter was anxious to meet her mother in Jacksonville.

We departed Blue Points Marina at 0900 hrs on June 14^th, 2017 for Jacksonville, FL.

PALM BEACH, FL

PALM BEACH, FL

JUNE 8-12, 2017

Palm Beach is an area of extremes: the very wealthy and very poor; champagne flowing on the Atlantic side and cocaine in the projects.  Just outside the Port of Palm Beach it isn’t safe to walk around at night; prostitution and drugs are rampant.  Outside of these economically impoverished areas, it’s a beautiful area with lots of attractions, great seafood and water sports.  The mega yachts grace the marinas.  This is one of the centers of American wealth.

In 1927 cereal heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post commissioned a 128 room mansion, on 20 acres of Atlantic Beach front, with  65,000 sq. ft of living area.  She named it Mar-a-Lago. To grace the mansion, in 1931,  a 360 ft three masted tall ship was built and named Sea Cloud.  She, too, was lavishly furnished.  A special permit and dredging were required to anchor her in the protected waters off the Intracoastal Waterway.  Presently, she is being chartered as a luxury cruise yacht.  Donald Trump bought the mansion in 1985 and has turned it into a private club he now calls The Winter White House.

Peanut Island is just off the stbd. side of a vessel entering Lake Worth from sea.  It has about 79 acres that came from dredging projects throughout the years.  Today it is called Peanut Island Park and has some camp sites, docks for a few yachts, a restaurant and museum and areas where one can swim and snorkel.  The island also features a Bomb Shelter that was built, in secret, in 1961 for President John F. Kennedy.  He often spent the winters in nearby Palm Beach Florida where the Kennedy Family had a mansion not too far from Mar-a-Lago.

We took our granddaughter over there in our dinghy and toured the island, visited the Bomb Shelter and the former USCG residence and repair facility.  The future of Peanut island is uncertain since the lease for the museum and USCG residence are not being renewed by the lessees.  It is an interesting place and nice getaway for the locals.  One hopes that real estate moguls, like Trump, are not able to buy it from the City of Palm Beach and turn it into more condominiums or mansions.

We didn’t visit anything else in the area so we heaved up anchor at 0700 hrs on June 12^th and headed out to sea for Cape Canaveral about 50 nm distant.    

ENTRY INTO FT LAUDERDALE, FLORIDA

ENTRY INTO FT LAUDERDALE, FLORIDA

May 25, 2017

As we approached the US coast and Miami area, a severe Wx warning was issued on VHF Ch 22a by the USCG for thunderstorms and squalls.  It was getting late in the afternoon so we decided to reduce sail to the minimum and move slowly towards Ft Lauderdale.  Strong wind and thunderstorms stayed with us for the rest of the night.  About one and one half miles off the Ft Lauderdale jetties, we headed back south and started to stem the wind and current by lying ahull with the rudder hard over.  This allowed the vessel to slide down the coastline at a 90 degree angle.  We were about 1.5nm off, well out of shipping traffic and watching the high rise buildings slip by.  At 0900 hrs on the morning of May 25^th, we entered the Ft. Lauderdale/Port Everglades jetties.

There are pros and cons for coming into Ft. Lauderdale:  there are no designated anchorage areas; the marinas are very expensive with an average rate of $2.50 per foot; that’s one hundred dollars a day for a 40 ft boat!; food is good but expensive; Customs Clearance is a taxi ride away; services are comprehensive but expensive; largest West Marine Store in the USA; good salvage yard right next door to West Marine.  Most importantly, for us, we had a good friend living nearby and wanted to see him.  We stayed at the Hall of Fame Marina, just north of the 17^th St SE bridge.  Their high season rates are $2.50 per foot of vessel length but on June 1^st the rates drop to $1.00 per foot.  That’s a substantial reduction.  We were at the Marina from May 25^th to June 8^th so we paid dearly and then received the discount rate.  There is an excellent restaurant named Coconuts in the area: great seafood and reasonably priced during Happy Hour.

We needed a good safe marina because we were leaving the yacht to travel to Pensacola, FL to visit our daughter and bring back our grand-daughter to sail with us.  We left on June 1^st and returned on June 5^th.  There was a significant Wx system that brought torrential rain on June 6^th and 7^th.  We departed Hall of Fame Marina on June 8^th for Lake Worth, about 40 nm up the Intracoastal Waterway.  Other than the multi-million dollar homes, we had to pass under 21 bridges.  Some of these only opened on the hour and half hour so timing was important.  For a few, it wasn’t possible to negotiate one bridge and then make the other within the required time frame so we just puttered along until the next opening.  I would never motor this stretch again if the outside option was available with good Wx.

At 2000 hrs, we dropped anchor just inside Lake Worth Jetties, south of G 11 Marker in 16 ft with 130 ft chain out:  pos: 26-46.069 N; 80-02.663 W,  This is a great anchorage with good holding in sand.

SINT MARTIN TO ST JOHN, USVI

SINT MARTIN TO ST JOHN, USVI

MAY 2-3, 2017

St John May 3-13, 2017

We departed Simpson Bay, Sint Maartin at 1545 hrs for Caneel Bay, St John:  103 nm.  The wind was out of the E at 15 kts so it was broad reach.  Initially, we started with a poled out jib and mainsail but, as the wind veered to the ESE, we dropped the mainsail and poled out another jib so we were running downwind with two poled out jibs. This balances out the helm very nicely.  It was a pleasant voyage, a  little more wind would have made it perfect.  On May 3^rd we picked up a National Park Mooring in Caneel Bay, St John:  18-20.572’ N; 064-47.428’ W.  Fatty Goodlander from S/V Ganesh had recommended this anchorage as an ideal place to check into the US Customs and Border Patrol.  We were back in USA territory after 43,000 miles sailing in just under 6 years!

Caneel Bay is about 1 nm to the East of Cruz Bay which is the main city on St John and the check in point for US Customs and Border Protection(CBP).  There is very little room to anchor in St John so, most yachts, pick up a National Park Mooring in Caneel Bay and dinghy over to Cruz for the check in process.  It’s all quick and easy with no boarding by any of the officials.  A good portion (60%) of St John is National Park land.  In 1956,  Laurence Rockefeller donated his extensive land holdings to the National Park Service under the condition that the lands had to be protected from future development.  St John does not have an airport but is serviced by several ferries coming from St Thomas.  It is a beautiful island with many lovely anchorages.  The National Park Service has established mooring buoys in all of the available anchorages.  These moorings are free during the day but a $24 fee is charged, on an honor system, for overnight stays.  A National Park Service Senior’s Pass reduces this to $12.

Our daughter, Samantha, arrived at St Thomas on May 4^th.  We met her at the airport and took a ferry back to Cruz Bay, St John.  From there, a 15 minute dinghy ride put us back on our yacht.  On May 12^th at 1112 hrs, we departed our mooring for Grand Harbor on Jost Van Dyke Is, BVI.  We arrived at 1300 hrs and dropped anchor in 46’ water depth on sand with 190’ anchor chain out. This island is famous for Foxxy’s Restaurant and Bar.  It has some beautiful beaches and scenery.  Tourists arrive by boat and plane.  There is a lively scene in the evenings with rum flowing in every direction.

Four days is not a lot of time so the following day, May 6^th, we sailed over to Cane Garden Bay (18-25.608’ N; 064-39.851’ W) on the island of Tortola and picked up a mooring.  Supposedly, Cane Garden Bay has one of the most beautiful setting to be found in the BVI’s: the sunset was beautiful.

At 0912 hrs on May 7^th, we departed Cane Garden Bay for Salt Pond on St John: 18-18.485’ N; 064-42.406’ W.  This is a stunningly beautiful place with an large shallow inland pond that produces salt through evaporation.  It has a brownish red appearance with clumps of sea salt forming near the banks.  The beach is snowy white and the reef snorkeling is good.  Samantha had a brief snorkeling  around the reefs.  WE departed our mooring for Caneel Bay at 1536 hrs and picked up a mooring in Caneel Bay at 1736 hour.  We went over to the Caneel Bay Resort for a great meal.

On May 8^th, we accompanied Samantha to the ST Thomas airport via ferry to Charlotte Amalie. We left her at the airport and took the ferry back to St John.

On May 10, we motored over to Francis Bay and picked up a National Park mooring: 18-21.686’ N; 064-44.795’ W.  We had some good sailing friends from the yachts “Adina” and “Antares 2” there.  We organized a picnic on a beach in this beautiful bay.  We ended up labeling this “bug beach”; it was infested with sand flies.  We stayed here until May 12^th and then motored back over to Caneel Bay.  All provisioning was done in Cruz Bay, at Dolphins Supermarket, for the trip to Ft Lauderdale, USA: 1055 nm.

DOMINICA TO SINT MAARTIN

DOMINICA TO SINT MAARTIN

APRIL 27-29, 2017

We departed Portsmouth, Dominica at 1830 hrs on April 27^th enroute to Simpson Bay, Sint Maartin: 180 nm.  The Wx was unsettled as we left Portsmouth.  There were black clouds forming in the bay with an increase of wind.  These conditions deteriorated and followed us for most of the voyage to Sint Maartin.  The wind was ESE 15-25 kts with 5-8’ seas in the gaps between the islands.  We carried a double reefed main and jib.  As long as we have 10+ kts of wind, the main will not flog but anything less than this requires dropping it and sailing on the jib alone.  Our mainsail in fully battened: this has advantages as well as disadvantages.  One of these disadvantages is flogging in light winds and rolly seas.  We have sailed with other boats that are able to hold onto the mainsail by sheeting it in flat to the center line but it doesn’t work for us, therefore we drop it when it starts to flog.

We arrived off Simpson Bay, Sint Maartin at 0530 hrs AST on April 29^th and waited for daylight.  At 0615, we anchored in the outer anchorage of Simpson Bay to wait for the first bascule bridge opening at 0930 hrs.  We had some very good sailing friends, Jim and Kathy, on their boat “Innishnee” waiting for us in the inner harbor.  They were our berth mates when we departed Tower Marine in Douglas, Michigan on June 24, 2011.  Now they were preparing a transatlantic voyage to the Mediterranean.  We were anxious to see them again.

The bascule bridge opened at 0930 hrs and we entered the inner lagoon and dropped anchor in 20’ water depth on a mixture  of sand/mud with 150’ chain out.  There are strong katabatic winds in this bay so plenty of scope is needs to soften the violent swings in the gusty winds.  The anchorage is very well protected with plenty of room to swing around.

Sint Martin is divided into two parts:  French and Dutch.  The French have a larger piece of the pie but the Dutch side is more economically developed and tax free.  It’s a great place to buy liquor and provisions.  We didn’t go to the French part but many yachties go there for French cuisine.  During our time there, the Mardi Gras Parade in Phillipsburg took place and was a loud colorful event.  We had to wear ear plugs to soften the enormous boom boxes carried on the Mardi Gras floats.  Most of the participants in the parade were of African decent and very animated in their dancing.  The parade went on for many hours but we cut out after about two hours and went to a bar for drinks.

We found Sint Maartin to be heavily influenced by Americans and Canadians.  Being tourists, we didn’t really experience any significant Dutch culture.  Because it is tax-free, it attracts many yachts from around the world.  After visiting with our friends, Jim & Kathy, we heaved up anchor at 1545 hours on May 2^nd and left the inner lagoon, with the 1700 bridge opening, and set sail for St John in the USVI’s.  Our daughter, Samantha, was going to meet us there and sail with us for several days.  The Trade Wind was light at 10-12 kts for most of the journey.  The seas were kind and gentle.

SAINT-PIERRE, MARTINIQUE TO ROSEAU, DOMINICA

SAINT-PIERRE, MARTINIQUE TO ROSEAU, DOMINICA

APRIL 25, 2017

We departed Saint-Pierre, Martinique at 0730 hrs in the morning for Roseau, Dominica: 34 nm.  The Trade Winds were blowing from the ESE at 20-25 kts and the passage between the islands produced 6-7’ seas.  We arrived off Roseau at 1430 hrs and were guided to a mooring by one of the “mooring boys”: 15-17.385’ N; 061-22.799’ E.  It is possible to anchor here but the holding, reputedly, is not very good .  The moorings are well maintained with strong mooring lines in good condition: $30 per night.  The biggest problem facing the visiting yachtsman is lack of safe dinghy access.  There is a small jetty that can be used with a few flimsy lines for attaching the stern of the dinghy.  This is important as there is quite a bit of surge coming into the mooring area.  If the stern line were to break, the dinghy would be washed under the dock and destroyed.

Roseau, the capital of Dominica, is well preserved in its French and English colonial architecture:  Market Square forms the center of the old city.  It was the place where slaves were sold and executed.  From this center, many streets radiate outwards and have fine examples of colonial architecture.  Ft. Young, located within the ramparts of the old colonial military of the 1770’s vintage, is the “piece de resistance” in the city.  It is an old fort that has been made into a beautiful hotel while retaining all the fortifications, cannons, flagstones and other parts of the original structure.  We sat down in the bar area and had our first encounter with “A Big Assed Fan”.  This is an American company that produces gigantic fans for commercial enterprises.  I’m guessing that it had  12’diameter blades that were circulating an impressive amount of air at a comfortable rate.  It was so big that a special beam and supports were needed to keep it from taking off.

Dominica is one of the less visited islands but, perhaps, one of the most beautiful.  It attracts eco-tourism because of the many rainforests, rivers and lakes.  It has set up several hiking trails with varying degrees of difficulty: a guide is needed.  It is the only island left with a sizable indigenous population of Kalinago Indians.  These were from the cannibalistic Caribs that literally, physically and culturally, digested their predecessors, the Arawaks.  This island, more than any other, has placed an emphasis on preserving their pristine natural resources.  Because the island is mountainous with inaccessible areas, it has been possible to preserve a large part of it from destruction.  I wish we would have had more time to explore all that it has to offer.

On April 27^th at 0730 hrs, we departed the mooring for Portsmouth, Dominica.  This is one of the towns that is touted by many cruisers to offer the best possibilities for exploring the interior.  It’s only twenty miles from Roseau to Portsmouth so we arrived at 1130 hrs and were guided to a mooring by one of the “boat boys”.  The town itself is not very interesting but it is strategically placed  to explore the interior by motor boat, bus and hiking.  The presence of “ganja” was everywhere and openly smoked at one of the restaurants on the beach.  Once again, dinghy access is limited to a dock using a stern anchor.  There was a large surge coming from the SW coming into the port.

We were anxious to move on so we departed Portsmouth at 1830 hrs the same day for Simpson Bay, Sint Maarten: 180 nm.  As we were departing rain and squalls were building up in the bay.  This continued right on into the night and required motoring at times.  The unsettled Wx stayed with us for a good part of the voyage but gave way to ESE’ly winds 20-25 kts as we approached Sint Maarten.

     

ST LUCIA TO MARTINIQUE

ST LUCIA TO MARTINIQUE

APRIL 21, 2017

We departed Marigot Bay for St Anne Bay, Martinique at 1030 hrs on Friday April 21^st.  It’s only 30 nm but we got a late start because the Harbor Master didn’t show up at his office until 1000 hrs – such is life in the idyllic Windward Islands.  The Trade Winds were rather light on this trip; blowing 12-15 kts with an occasional 20 kt.  The St Lucia Strait has a reputation for being boisterous and rough but, on this occasion, it was remarkably well behaved; I don’t remember anything over 4’.

With the exception of Martinique, many of the islands exchanged hands between the English and French as the fortunes of war favored one or the other.  As a colonial power, the English exploited the natural resources of the islands without investing a lot of money in the infrastructure. Given the hierarchical structure of their country: monarchy, aristocracy, Upper Class, etc, they were, and continue to be, class conscious.  Since most of the local population were former slaves and uneducated, the English brought in East Indians to manage the mundane tasks that an established bureaucracy needed.  There was very little mixing between the English and those they ruled.

The French, on the other hand, considered Martinique to be an overseas extension of mainland France.  They exploited the natural resources of the land but invested large amounts of money in building an infrastructure and mixing with the local population.  This doesn’t mean that they weren’t class conscious but they didn’t have problems with interracial breeding.  This has resulted in a population that is a mixture of all the races that were brought into Martinique.  To enter Martinique is to enter the sphere of European French culture.  It is highly developed, modern and enjoys all the benefits of mainland France.

We dropped anchor at 1630 hrs in St Anne Bay in 20’ water depth on a sandy bottom:  14-26.030’ N; 060-53.230’ W.  This is a small town on the southeastern part of the bay that leads to Le Marin.  The surrounding area is pleasant and well protected.  The formalities for entering Martinique are all done on a computer in a designated restaurant: US$3.00.  It is the same for checking out:  how great is that?  We weren’t planning to stay long in St Anne so we took care of some provisions at Carfour in Le Marin and weighed anchor for St Pierre at 0906 hrs on April 23^rd.  It’s about 30 nm from St Anne to St Pierre.  For the most part we had an ESE Trade Wind at 15 kts with 3’ seas and protected by the landmass.  Some motoring was necessary during shadowing of the wind by the landmass. At 1600 hrs, we dropped anchor at St Pierre in 16’ water depth with 110’ chain out: 14-44.445’ N; 061-10.661’ W  Saint-Pierre is not as well protected as St Anne.  It is open from the North to the SW.  The bottom falls off sharply so one has to anchor fairly close in. 

Saint-Pierre was once a great trading center with about 30,000 inhabitants.  It was completely destroyed in 1902 by an eruption from Mount Pelee which killed the entire population with the exception of two individuals:  a criminal and a carpenter.  It has never been restored to its former glory but remains an interesting study in what a pyroclastic flow can do.  Many of the rebuilt homes, in the center of the city, use one or two of the old walls that remained after the rest were destroyed.  There is an interesting Vulcanological Museum that depicts the unfolding of that great tragedy.  The stupidity and ignorance of the local officials, at that time, reminded me of Heinrik Ibsen’s play “An Enemy of The People”.

The French islands deserve a lot more time to explore and enjoy.  I have always admired the free-spirited independence of the French.  They are imaginative, creative and adventurous; many are excellent yachtsmen.

BEQUIA, SVG TO MARIGOT BAY, ST LUCIA

BEQUIA, SVG TO MARIGOT BAY, ST LUCIA

APRIL 20, 2017

We departed Bequia at 0545 hrs in the morning on Thursday April 20^th for Marigot Bay, St Lucia: 62 nm.  It is a beautiful well protected bay and considered a “Hurricane Hole”.  In the mid 90’s, I worked for Hess Oil on a docking tug in Cul de Sac Bay just three nm north of Marigot. I used to walk over the mountain to Marigot Bay.  There wasn’t much there other than a single bar/restaurant.  The entrance to the bay runs east/west so the sunsets are spectacular.  The bay is still beautiful but it is now an Official Port of Entry and the developers have built a small marina, mooring buoys, restaurants, condos, water taxis, and the myriad water sports that go with a first class yachting center.  It has been tastefully done but no longer has the intriguing charm of remoteness.

Most of the islands have found a lucrative resource in yachts:  A typical mooring buoy costs anywhere from $18-30 per night, with $30 being the usual rate.  This seems to fit in with the increased affluence in the yachting community.  There is a plethora of chartered boats, mostly catamarans, plying these waters.  All of this generated money is reflected in pricing at the marinas and on the mooring buoys.  There are still many places to anchor but the local fishermen and entrepreneurs are reducing the anchorages with mooring buoys.  It becomes difficult to anchor near boats on moorings because the swing room is different.  In many places, a yacht entering the anchorage area is greeted by a motor boat asking to escort you to a mooring buoy.  After being made fast to the buoy, the fee is paid in cash.  As long as the moorings are well cared for and inspected, it is a convenience that has merit: caveat emptor.  In times of strong winds, many poorly maintained moorings fail.  Our policy has been to research the area before going there, read reviews and rent from locally established marinas.  We visually look at the mooring pendants and lines to see if they are in reasonably good condition.  It’s hard to beat a well set anchor with adequate scope.

The sail from Bequia to St Lucia was good: E-ENE wind 15-20 kts with a favorable current.  Close in to St Vincent, the katabatic winds can be gusty and fluky.  Occasionally, we had to motor sail to overcome the calm areas created by landmass.  The straits between the islands kick up a 4-6’ sea but nothing too uncomfortable.

At 1652 hrs AST, we picked up a mooring buoy in Marigot Bay: 13-57.978’ N; 061-01.430’ W.  There is a lot of activity and noise here that detracts from the natural beauty of the area.  We decided to leave the following morning.  We were able to Check In/Check Out at the same time; no clearance fees were charged.

Clifton Harbor, Union Island

We rented a mooring in Clifton Harbor so we didn't have to anchor. Clifton itself was very disappointing. It was not very clean and very expensive.  We had read that it was would be interesting. But not so for us.

They did have colorful fruit and vegetable stands.

We ate at this restaurant  that had  Hughes fish tanks with the Hughes lobsters we've ever seen and the food was good.

Carriaco

From Prickly Bay to Carriacou to check out of Grenada.

We had Sunday brunch at the slipway restaurant. 

This was there sign at the dinghy dock.

Don 's Mahi mahi meal. He said it was very nicely cooked.

I had fish tacos that was the best.

The bay  we anchored in.

On to Prickly Bay.

Once we got to Grenada, we med moor which means we go stern first to the dock which is not so good for us. Fortunately  our friends were next to us so we rafted and we could get of our boat. But once they went on the hard we had to use our dinghy to get of to go to the showers and bathroom. Not pleasant. The only reason we were there was to get a few things fixed. Did not take any pictures of Prickly Bay.

Sunset on the way to Grenada. It wasn't a great sunset.

We had a leak in the galley for a very long time and couldn't figure out where the water was coming from. And it was salt water. So we took a few things apart where we finally figured out where the water was coming from. Between the scuper and the through hull. There was a leak in one of the hoses.

Don had to climb into the dry locker that is about 3ft deep and about 2ft wide.

And there he goes climbing in to replace the hose.

Squeezed himself in. And fixed it. No more leak. What a good husband to put himself in such an awkward  position.

BEQUIA, GRENADINES

BEQUIA, GRENADINES

APRIL 13- 18, 2017

The distance from Clifton Harbor, Union Island to Bequia is 37 nm.  The day we departed, the wind was out of the ESE 15-18 kts; seas 3’.  This gave us perfect conditions to fetch Bequia in one tack after clearing Union Island.  We departed Clifton at 0724 hrs and dropped anchor in Bequia at 1400 hrs: (13-00.612’ N; 061-14.608’ W). It was one of the best sails we have experienced under a double reefed main and genoa.  I kept the double reefed mainsail because, running up the leeward side of the islands, strong katabatic wind gusts rush down the mountains and ravines heeling the boat over.  I smile and enjoy it with a monohull but, in 1978, with the Wharram Catamaran, it was a concern because a catamaran will not heel to spill the wind therefore the rigging is vulnerable.

I have been trying to reminisce and put together just where we anchored in Admiralty Bay in 1978 on the 40’ Narai Mk IV Wharram Catamaran.  We took a dinghy ride today around the entire bay and have decided that it was in Lower Bay: 12-59.842’ N; 061-14.717’ W.  It is the only place that has the remaining coconut trees that I remember.  At that time, we had a friend named Gary Gilbert that was crewing for us.  We had picked him up at Bridgetown, Barbados.  He would become a lifelong friend.  Also, if memory serves me well, we had taken on a couple whose marriage was falling apart.  At that time, I was still playing guitar and the man taught me the words and music to Fats Waller’s song “Black and Blue”.  Phyllis was pregnant but didn’t know it.  There was a Frenchman named Philipe who had built a boat on Isla de Lobos in the Canary Islands.  We met him and then Gary and I walked over the mountain to the windward side of Bequia and caught six large lobsters.  That evening, we had a feast on the beach with Philipe and locals.

I don’t remember the town of Bequia at all.  That isn’t so surprising because we didn’t have any money to spend there.  Also, I can only recall a few boats where we anchored; one belonged to Philipe and he had a stern line running to a coconut tree.

Bequia today remains an island of sailors and boats linked to the outside world mainly by the sea.  The island still has an active whaling station in a low-key and traditional way.  They are allowed to take four whales a year but don’t  get many because few people are left with the skills necessary to hunt them – a daring feat in an open sailing boat, using hand thrown harpoons.  Bequians continue to build their traditional wooden double ended sailing boats in the shade of palm trees and sheds.  As I am writing this, it is the annual Easter Bequia Regatta that began today (April 14^th and goes through Sunday April 16^th).  The first race today was in Admiralty Bay; tomorrow they sail to Friendship Bay; on Sunday all the way around the island.  Lots of sailors here and cruisers are allowed to participate in their own class.  We don’t race.

In contrast to Clifton Harbor, Bequia is clean.  There is a sense of civil pride in the locals.  They are proud people,” descendants of settlers who came from North America on whaling boats, from farms in Scotland, from France as freebooters, and as slaves from Africa”.  This French freebooting has a long history and is alive and well today in the cruising world.  I think there is a mooching gene involved.  Nevertheless, I admire the intelligence, originality and courage of the French sailors we have met.

Bequia is a town of local artists, restaurants, fruit and veggies markets, boat building supplies, tour guides, dive shops, supermarkets, etc.; just about anything you might want can be found somewhere.  The Rastas are doing well in the Veggie Market and the smell of ganja is enticing.  Most of the businesses are owned by locals with a smattering of foreigners.  It appears that there is enough money flowing around to keep everyone solvent.  There is a feeling that they like you as well as the money you bring.  I didn’t get that feeling at Union Island.

Sinc we have arrive during the Easter festivities, Customs and Immigration will not be open until Tuesday April 18^th.  Originally, I was going to check out at Chauteaubelair on the west coast of St Vincent and then sail to Marigot Bay at St Lucia.  Given the delays, we will check out here in Bequia and sail directly for St Anne’s Bay (14-26.064’ N; 060-53.512’ W) on the island of Martinique: 90 nm.  If we leave here at 1500 hrs on April 18^th, we should arrive at St Anne’s Bay around 0900 hrs on April 19^th.

UNION ISLAND, GRENADINES

UNION ISLAND, GRENADINES

APRIL 11-13, 2017

We set sail from Tyrell Bay at 0818 on April 11^th.  It’s a short hop of 13 nm from Tyrell Bay to Clifton Harbor, Union Island.  This is the administrative center for the Grenadines because it is a Marine Park that encompasses the Tobago Cays (not to be confused with the island of Tobago).  These Cays reputedly offer some of the finest snorkeling and diving to be found anywhere.  They are protected from the sea by Horseshoe Reef but still open to the full force of the ocean winds.  The St Vincent and Grenadines Park Service charges about $US 4 per day per person.  Mooring are available for $US 45 per night. We didn’t have time to go into this area and Phyllis doesn’t snorkel so it wasn’t worth the time.

WE picked up one of the National Park Service Moorings (12-35,793’ N;061-24.836’ W) in Clifton Harbor: $US 22 per night.  The moorings are well maintained and strong.  Given the amount of traffic that is buzzing around, I felt that the mooring was the best bet but I could have anchored.  In addition to the Tobago Cays, Clifton Harbor is protected by a reef that shows off its brilliant kaleidoscopic colors and patterns as you sail in.  The expanse of brilliant green-turquoise and brown are stunning. 

Once we were moored, our eyes caught this amazing display of kiteboarding.  It appears that Union is the kiteboarding center of the Windward Islands.  Unfortunately, Clifton is not as beautiful and pristine as its surroundings.  It has a colorful picture- perfect market around a green and some small buildings that, architecturally, are interesting.  Outside of this, the town has a run-down dinginess that is hard to forgive.  The locals don’t seem to have that special “Keep Clifton Clean” attitude.  There are some good restaurants and eateries as well as hiking trails.  We only had a very small view of the whole so, maybe, there is more to recommend it.

Given that this town is totally dedicated to tourism arriving in planes and boats, it isn’t surprising that the prices reflect the clientele.  I tried to buy a small 10 lb watermelon and, after bargaining, could not get the price below $US1.50 per lb so I walked away.  Tuna, Conch and Mahi-Mahi are caught daily and cheap.

We departed Union Island at 0724 hrs on April 13, 2017 for Bequia.  In 1978, on the 40’ Ocean-going Wharram Catamaran that we had spent six years in the Canary Islands building, Bequia was as far South in the Windward Islands that we sailed.  After that, we sailed north to Martinique and Antigua.  We are now picking up that track again and, as before, will make a landing on the east Florida coast.

CARRIACOU, GRENADA

CARRIACOU, GRENADA

APRIL 8-11, 2017

We departed Prickly Bay at 0718 hrs.  We had shifted from the Marina to one of their mooring buoys the day before so that we could get an early start.  It’s only 37 nm from Prickly Bay to Tyrell Bay on the island of Carriacou.  Enroute, about 5 nm north of Grenada, there is an active submarine volcano named Kick ‘em Jenny.  The government of Grenada has established a 1.5 km exclusion zone around it.  If they detect signs of rumbling, the zone is increased to 5 km.  Since there were no warnings issued, we infringed upon the exclusion zone to make our course line into Tyrell Bay.  The sail was pleasant with wind from the E 15-20kts; seas 4-6’.  We made fast to the mooring at 1630 hrs: 12-27.410’ N; 061-29,199’ E

Upon entering Tyrell Bay and preparing to anchor, a boat from Carriacou Marine Services approached and offered us a Mooring Buoy.  I had the anchor ready to drop but decided to take the mooring buoy for the two nights we were going to be there.  These mooring buoys are not cheap:  US$15 per night!  In fact, the Caribbean is not bargain priced.  Over the years yachts have grown bigger and their owners more affluent.  The tourist market reflects this affluence and locals know that money can be made from goods and services to the yachting community.

Tyrell Bay is another one of those beautiful places that yachts and tourists love to visit:  Beautiful sandy beaches under palm trees and friendly welcoming locals.  There are a few good restaurants and all offer free WiFi which is good.  Once again there is an active Cruiser’s Net on VHF 69 at 0730 hrs in the morning.  Hillsborough is the largest city and located about three miles north of Tyrell Bay.  It has just about everything the cruiser needs but is not as good as St George at Grenada.

One could spend more time in this lovely bay but we are now heading north, up the island chain, and over to the USVI’s.

PRICKLY BAY, GRENADA

PRICKLY BAY, GRENADA

MARCH 28- April 8, 2017

We set sail from Charlotteville, Tobago at 1742 (UTC-4) hrs on March 27 and arrived Prickly Bay Marina (11-59.907’ N; 061-45.550’ W) at 1154 (UTC-4) hrs.  It was a very pleasant sail with the wind out of the ESE and seas running 4-6’ with a clear starry night.  We were able to set the two poled out jibs and maintain about 5 kts.  We had a one kt current against us.

Prickly Bay has many contractors and marine services that cater to the yachting world.  Spice Island Marina has haul out facilities, small apartments and a very good Chandlery named Budget Marine.  It is centrally located and St George is a ten minute bus ride.  There are some big supermarkets in St George including an IGA.  Everything can be found to provision a yacht.  WE had to go to Prickly Bay for a Freon leak in the refrigeration unit and a leak in the floor of our Avon dinghy.

We had to “Med Moor” at the Prickly Bay Marina.  This consists of picking up a fixed mooring buoy for the bow of the boat and backing onto the pontoon and putting out two stern lines.  It doesn’t work well for a canoe stern boat because we weren’t able to get off.  Our friends on “Norsa” were next to us so we pulled ourselves alongside them and used their boat for getting on and off.  Once they left, we had to use our dinghy and go over to the dinghy dock to get on and off the boat.  We won’t Med Moor anymore unless it is absolutely necessary.

There are some beautiful bays on the Southern end of Grenada:  Clarks Court, Secrete Cove, Whisper Cove and Hog Island.  Many cruisers return to these beautiful places year after year.  There is an active Cruiser’s Net that comes on VHF 66 at 0730 hrs every morning except Sundays.  It is informative and helpful.  Just about anything can be arranged by requesting it.

Many yachties from the UK haul out for the hurricane season and fly back home.  Others stay and make arrangements to find a good “hurricane hole” should one threaten.  Grenada is slightly South of 12 degrees which means that the island is not frequented by tropical storms very often.  Grenada is a beautiful, friendly and welcoming place.  It values the yachts that choose to call there.