ORIENTAL, NC TO PORTSMOUTH, VA

ORIENTAL, NC TO PORTSMOUTH, VA

JULY 16-19, 2017

On Sunday July 16, 2017 at 0720 hrs, the water level in Whittaker Creek had come up 12 inches so we got underway for Norfolk, VA.  I had been talking to local yachtsmen about the best way to get out so I had an idea of where the deeper water was.  Since we had just had two coats of antifouling put on the bottom, I didn’t want to rub it off on the soft mud.  The local knowledge was good; we only touched bottom briefly one time; a great relief to be out of there.!  The ICW inside distance form Oriental, NC to Norfolk, VA is 160 miles.  Motoring up the Intracoastal Waterway at 5.5 kts, a boat can make 55 miles nm in 10 hours:  this is equivalent to 63 statute miles.  The distances on the ICW are measured in statute miles; the boat speed is in knots which equates to nautical miles: 1 Nautical Mile = 1.15 Statute Miles.  What all this means is that it would take about 2.5 days to reach Norfolk and we would have to anchor out two nights.                

This section of the ICW is remote and very beautiful.  It has abundant wildlife, especially birds.  Ospreys build their nests on the ICW numbered navigation Day Markers.  One hears them peeping as the boat passes them.  The Bald Eagle is prevalent in this area: we saw four of them.  Although I prefer the outside route around Cape Hatteras, I would take this section of the ICW once again and, probably will, on our trip back down south in the early Fall.

The first night we anchored in Pungo Creek in 10 ft of water with 70 ft of chain out:  35-33.728 N; 76-28.515W.  This is a very quiet well protected anchorage and provides a convenient stop before entering the Alligator River/Pungo River Canal: a twenty mile stretch of narrow waterway with no anchoring possible.  We had another vessel with us, Aussie Mate, going in the same direction.  They had the advantage of carrying a 4.8 ft draft; just perfect for these waters.  

On July 17^th,  we got underway at 0836 hrs.  We had delayed sailing at 0700 hrs because of light rain.  We had no specific anchorage in mind and motored along at 5,5 kts.  At 1515 hrs we got hit with a thunderstorm and blinding rain.  We were in a good position to anchor outside the channel and wait for it to pass.  Also, there was the Alligator River Bridge about one mile ahead that had to open for us to pass through.  By 1630, conditions had improved enough for us to heave up anchor and clear the bridge.  Another squall was approaching so, after clearing the bridge, we anchored at Sandy Pt. anchorage in 12 ft water depth with 80 ft of chain out: 35-56.005 N; 76-00.506 W.  This anchorage is exposed to S –SE wind but has good enough protection the SW-NW.  If conditions are blustery, it is possible to wind your way further into the creek and be well protected.  This is the first time in our circumnavigation that we have experienced the building  of afternoon thunderstorms along the SE Coast of the US.  They can be particularly violent, with winds from 30-50 kts and torrential blinding rain, which becomes very dangerous in restricted waters.

On July 18^th, we heaved up anchor at 0700 hrs and got underway for Coinjock Marina, NC: 36-20.987 N; 75-56.888 W.  This marina is famous for its 32oz Prime Rib Steak – an obscene thing to say the very least.  The population of Coinjock is 37.  There are two marina there; Coinjock is the better one as the Midway Marina is undergoing refurbishment.  Business is entirely dependent on the North/South movement of yachts transiting the ICW in the early Summer and early Fall.  The marina has good facilities:  showers, electricity, water, restaurant, small grocery store.

We left Coinjock Marina for Portsmouth, VA at 0800 hrs of July 19^th.  Portsmouth is a small city on the Western side of the Elizabeth River and Norfolk is on the Eastern side.  The city of Portsmouth offers free docking at two different places close by to each other:  North Landing and South Landing.  Both are in the old historical district which is well preserved and charming.  After a  long day of motoring, we arrived at North Landing at 1700 hrs: 36-50.299 N; 76-17.788 W.  Our main purpose for stopping in Portsmouth was to meet a fellow Valiant 40 owner who had been instrumental in providing me with pictures and advise, on engine installation, when we installed the Beta 50 in Phuket, Thailand.  His detailed photos and drawings made it possible to instruct and guide the Thai workers, who spoke no English, through the difficult process of modifying the engine bed and installing the Beta 50 diesel engine.  He provided almost 200 photos of his installation!

This is the second time we have stopped in Portsmouth.  The first time was over five years ago when we were headed down the ICW to Ft Lauderdale.  In addition to the lovely old historical homes, it has a plethora of excellent eateries:  something there for everyone.  After meeting with David Bridges on Wednesday, the town of Portsmouth gave a band concert at the North Landing.  Being on the yacht, we had the best seats in the place including cold beer! 

We left the lovely town of Portsmouth at 0645 hrs on the morning of July 21^st.  Our next stop would be Spring Cove Marina at Solomon Island in order to meet another Valiant 40 owner who had given me information on Beta engine installation when I was in Phuket, Thailand.