March 21, 2012
We have been on the island for 10 days and taken several excursions to some interesting places. Yesterday we went to the "galapaguera" (giant tortoise breeding station) on the Eastern side of the island. There is a scientific breeding program there that ensures that the giant turtles of San Cristobal will survive changed environmental conditions. It appears that rats and wild cats prey upon the eggs and young that are laid in the sand on many of the Eastern beaches. Additionally, there is some concern that any environmental disaster could wipe out the natural habitats of these ancient creatures. Therefore, about 25 Galapagos (giant turtles) have been moved to the breeding station and placed in semi-captivity. From this stock come eggs then young. Once the have reached 10-12 years old they will be reintroduced in their natural habitat on the Northeastern tip of the island. San Cristobal has only one species of Galapago. Some of the other island have as many as 8 different species. Once we move from here to Isabela we´ll have more info on the various breeding programs.
San Cristobal has very fertile soil and in the higher elevations it cools considerably and rains. They grow bananas, papaya, guayaba, blackberries, many vegetables and other fruit. The island is quite green and has adequate water supplies in the higher elevations but not on the ocean side. As a result, the first town, Poblado, on the island was about 3 miles inland. There was adequate water and a much cooler environment. All of the farmers have been "grandfathered" into the National Park regulations and can continue to grow fruit and pursue other activities forbidden to recent arrivals. Consequently, there are cows and other livestock on many of the "fincas" (farms).
The Galapagos are a step back in time when life was much simpler. For those of us who were on the road travelling in the 60´s and 70´s, it brings back memories of an easier going time. Even the town has this quaintness about it that was found in many of the places in Spain and Europe. It is a wonderful place to be and enjoy its uniqueness. Being volcanic, it has many similar features to the Canary Islands. On La Gomera in the Canary Is, the inhabitants used a form of whistling to get some ones attention. The same thing happens here: a low unobtrusive whistle to get attention. Everyone uses it and its very effective without being annoying. In the ten days that we have been here we haven´t heard anyone honk a horn or make rude noises. The only honkers are the ubiquitous sea lions.
Last night we received our official permission to travel to other islands. This is a special document called an "autografo" that comes from the Minister of the Interior and grants an extended stay and right to visit other designated ports in the Galapagos. Without this document an arriving vessel has to remain in the same port of arrival for the twenty days that are given. We had an excellent agent, Bolivar Pesantes, that was able to arrange it: cost $400. Even at that exorbitant price they just aren´t given out to every yacht that requests it. In lieu of an "autografo" one can leave the yacht anchored in Baquerizo Moreno and travel via ferry to the other islands. We have discovered that due to our refrigeration system being engine driven, someone had to be onboard to crank up the engine three times a day. Esentially, this makes us slaves to the "reefer". Without the "autografo" we would have had to leave one of us onboard while the other took a ferry to the islands for a few days at a time. Gracias a Dios, this problem has been solved by a wonderful agent.
We plan to be in the islands for another two weeks. Part of the time factor is waiting for the end of the tropical cyclone season in the South Pacific. The Marquesas are at the Eastern fringe end of the cyclone belt and rarely get hit with a tropical system but, officially, it doesn´t end until the later part of April. We will play it safe: It will take us about 25 days to reach Hiva Oa island and clear in at Atuona: 3000 nm. This will be in early May when the possibility of a tropical system migrating into the area is remote.
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