SWIMMING WITH GIANT TURTLES, MANTA RAYS AND SEALS

March 14, 2012

The long voyage to the Galapagos finds new friends on other yachts that have been anchored in the same places along the way.  So it is and we made friends with a yacht called "Mary Madelein".  We had heard them in the San Blas Isalnds, met them in Shelter Bay Marina on the Atlantic side and once again in Las Playitas on the Pacific side.  We kept in contact on the voyage to San Cristobal via SSB everyday and then anchored in together.  All this resulted in a trip on the island to a place called "The Loberia".  It is on the windward side of San Cristobal with big surfing waves and a protected cove where one can swim with giant turtles, seals and manta rays.  What makes this so unique is the absence of fear to humans in close contact.  A sense of sadness overcame me to realize how these defenseless turtles we slaughtered to the point of extinction by virtually every human enterprise that came to the islands.  These are the marine turtles: the giant land tortoises fared even worse and are slowly being reintroduce to the islands under scientific breeding programs.  There is a "galapaguera" (breeding station) on San Cristobal that we will visit in the near future.  It is reported that they have about 80 of the giant tortoises that they are using for breeding.  To date we have seen one of the giant tortoises in the back of a church here in Baquerizo M.  They are providing it will with everything it needs but it looks so very lonely in its captive habitat.

It has been one of the most exciting swims that Phyllis or I have ever done.  Standing in five feet of water with giant marine turtles and manta rays is spectacular.  The seals just add to the drama!  On our walk back, along very well made volcanic stone access walkways, we saw the famous marine iguanas sunning themselves on the volcanic rocks.  Again, there is no fear of humans.  If they scurry away they spit a type of liquid that can be seen.  In addition to the marine iguanas, I saw a black land iguana.  Phyllis took some pictures of it and will post them on the blog.

The island reminds us of the Canary Islands:  both are volcanic in origin and buffeted by the Trade Winds.   San Cristobal has more moisture and rain so it is greener.  We could spend quite a bit of time here under different circumstances.  It´s wonderful to be out of the hustle and bustle of the USA but still have most of the amenities in a very relaxed environment with a unique flora and fauna.