KALABAHI, ALOR TO LEMBATA, FLORES

August 26, 2014 Tuesday

We heaved up anchor at Kalabahi (08-13.444 S x 124-30.237) at 1000 hrs for Lembata on the island of Flores (08-22.140’ S 123-24.581’ E).  The distance is 78 nm and the reason for the late start is to time the tidal stream at the north end of Selat Pantar (Pantar Strait).  These tidal streams can be very strong and run 9 kts at spring tides so careful attention has to be given to entering or exiting any strait.  If possible, one should not enter any of these strait when there is a strong wind against the prevailing tidal stream.  It’s doable but conditions will be rough.  We were able to sail most of the way with light SE’ly winds but fell becalmed at 0448 on the following day.  It worked out OK because we were waiting for first light and a favorable current to enter Selat Boleng from the North.  Lying ahull, I was able to determine that we had a favorable current that was setting from NE to SW in the strait.  We started in at 0820 on August 27^th (our wedding anniversary) and dropped anchor off Lembata, at 1030, in position 08-22.147’ S x 123-24.605’ E in 28 ft water depth with 120 ft of chain out on a sandy bottom.  This anchorage becomes troubled when there is a S’ly setting current going against a S’ly wind.  It happens once daily and lasts about 3 hrs when all the anchored boats are doing the “current dance” and swing around 180 degrees.  The holding is good so we didn’t observe anyone dragging.

The events planned by the Lembata Regency and Ministry of Tourism and Culture were outstanding.  We were formally greeted by the tourist bureau and arrangements were made for any supplies needed: diesel, gasoline, water, etc.  The following day, we were taken to a very traditional village named Hadekawa where a formal welcoming ceremony was performed for entering the village.  I was delegated the honor of representing the “Wonderful Sail2Indonesia” participants.  There is a formal gate to the village with a green vine blocking the  way.  On the village side are the tribal chief and elders with warriors wielding spears, machetes and swords and the welcoming dancers and greeters.  On our side, our representative calls out to the village chief that we request permission to enter the village.  At this point, the village chief pours some coconut wine from a bamboo receptacle into a coconut bowl and then offers some to all the ancesters by pouring a little on the ground and requesting that they allow us to pass unmolested.  This being done, I was presented with a machete to cut the blocking green vine.  Once cut there is aloud acclimation of joy from the villagers and Phyllis and myself are given honorary status within the village and draped with a beautiful
Ikat scarf.  We are presented with a bowl of coconut wine, betel nut and tobacco.  This is traditional, as we will learn, in all the village ceremonies.  If one does not want to eat the betel nut or smoke the tobacco, it is acceptable to touch the ceremonial box that contains them as a matter of respect.  We are then danced into the village by the local young Indonesian girls with warriors dancing ahead with spears and swords.

Once inside the village, there is a special tent set up for us.  There is more dancing, warrior displays and then come speeches from our Indonesian hosts and myself as honored guest.  After all this, traditional food is served in a buffet style.  The selections are: fish, chicken, cassava, greens, fried bananas, sea snails in ceviche, limpets, several kinds of rice prepared in different ways and sambal ( a fiery hot sauce).  After this, there is dancing in which everyone participates.  There is no escaping because they seek you out!  Indonesians love to dance with their hosts.

We were celebrating the “Festival of Nuhanera” so there were rowing competitions and then we all boarded the local Indonesian boats and motored off to another village called Dikesare which was far across the bay and took about 2 hours to get there.  We’re talking remote here.  As we approached the village, there were warriors from that village dancing on the welcoming boats with spears and swords.  Once again, we are danced into the village with all the traditional welcoming ceremonies: cut the vine, eat betel nut, smoke tobacco.

The day ended with more food, dancing and singing.  Since it was such a long boat ride, we were taken back to Lewoleba by car.  It would be hard to describe what we went through as a road since it was more of a pot-holed dirt path.  It took us about two hours to get back.

The following day (August 30^th) we were taken from Lewoleba to Wolor Pass Hill Top for a sunset ceremony.  We were entertained by 100 students from the Elementary School dancing and singing and then – you guessed it – everyone is going to participate in the local “round dance”.  This dance goes on forever and the animation increases with time.  Everyone is holding hands and dancing around and around while women within the group are chanting out song with men replying and rallying on the group.  About the time you are ready to drop, it miraculously ends but that is not the end for there will be more!  Young green drinking milk coconuts were served up.  There were several ladies selling vegetables from their farm and traditional “Ikat”.  The national passion for photo taking was everywhere.  They will grab hold of you and plead to have their photo taken.  Truly, these Florenses are a charming people to be around.

The day ended with a formal dinner given by the Regent at Lewoleba, speeches, dancing and general merry making.

August 31^st

There were two options on this day.  Get up at 0100 hrs in the morning and trek four hours up to Ile Lewotolok Vocano for a sunrise ceremony or go to Lamalera which is a traditional whaling village.  We opted for the whaling village.  Once again, the roads are in a deplorable condition and most parts of your body will hurt by the time you get there, not to mention coming back.

Lamalera is, perhaps, the last traditional whaling village left in the world.  They still use palm leaf sails and bamboo harpoons.  There are no engines.  When we got there, they had taken four whales about 12 days before and the village was strung out in whale blubber, meat and some turtle all drying in the sun.  Under the whale blubber, they put pieces of galvanized tin that drains into a receptacle to catch the oil.  The oil is used for everything from cooking to lighting lamps and medicinal purposes.  The harpooners actually jump from the bowsprit of the boat, with bamboo poles armed with a homemade steel harpoon that detaches from the pole!  This recalls a scene of Ahab from Moby Dick!  The women all weave “Ikat”.  There is no other income or resource in this village.  It would be hard to begrudge these whalers from the only resource they have had for centuries.

We returned to Lewoleba and arrived in the evening.  It was a long day and we looked forward to going back to the boat for some rest.

On Monday, September 1, 2014 we prepared to get U/W for Larantuka (08-20.651’ S x 122-59.313’ E) which is only 30 nm to the west via Selat Solor.  Another Gala Event and Dinner was to await us.