LEWOLEBA, LEMBATA TO LARANTUKA

September 1, 2014  Monday

The distance from Lembata to Larantuka is 30 nm in protected waters.  The biggest obstacle is timing the tidal streams between the two places.  Lembata is on Selat Boleng and the setting of the tidal streams from NE > SW and vice versa are calculated using the Meridian Passage of the Moon.  On Selat Larantuka the setting of the tidal streams runs N > S and is calculated using Moon Rise > Moon Set.  There is, at least, a 6 hr difference between the two places in a rather short distance.  The “Southeast Asia Cruising Guide” by Stephen Davies and Elaine Morgan lays this out very clearly and gives a fairly accurate prediction of what is happening and when.

There are eight provincial districts called Regencies on the Island of Flores.  Each one has an elected Regent who manages the bureaucracy and affairs of the district.  The Wonderful Sail2Indonesia 2014 Rally has been invited, welcomed and entertained by these Regents.  Since it is a sponsored Ministry of Tourism and Cultural Development project, we have been royally entertained and taken to traditional villages and ending with a formal dinner hosted by the Regent.  Larantuka  is one of the oldest Regencies on Flores and has an hereditary King.  In modern times, his function is ceremonial and nothing more.  It was settled by the Portugese early in the 17^th century and all the inhabitants were converted to Catholicism.  Later on the Dutch occupied Flores but the religion remained dominantly Catholic with some Protestants and Moslems.  East Nusa Tenggara (Eastern Indonesia) remains predominantly Christian.  Areas that were settled by the Dutch are protestant.  Within these religions runs strain of Animism from ancient times.  The superstitions, offerings and appeasement to unfriendly spirits and totemic poles decorating the traditional meeting house are endemic within their system of religious belief.

We dropped anchor in Larantuka harbor at 1430 hrs in position (08-20.651’ S x 122-59.313 E) in 57’ water depth on a sand/mud bottom.  The Regent and his beautiful wife arranged a formal dinner for the five yachts that chose to be there.  They sent out a launch to pick us up and take us to the Regency.  It was formally decorated with white and red table cloths and all the chairs were dressed in red and white.  Upon arrival, the traditional welcoming ceremony with a vine blocking the way, and warriors and villagers behind, arak (local whiskey), betel nut and tobacco offered, prayers offered to the ancestors.  Our representative from the Regency requests that we be allowed to enter which is granted after the offerings and we are danced into the reception center.  Phyllis and I are chosen to set at the Regent’s table with the King and all the other administrators.  There are welcoming speeches, formal dinner and dancing with music from a live band.  Much of the music is Country Western inspired.  The Regent sang “Sailing” by Steven Bishop.  This was a great party for only fourteen sailors.  They went all out with warmth and hospitality.

The following day, once again, we were picked up at 0730 hrs, with launch and bussed off to several traditional villages.  All of the crafts: Ikat, wood carving, dancing, grinding corn into a grist and popping corn were demonstrated.  It was a great tour given by a very friendly Regency.  This part of Flores is more remote and doesn’t have many tourists visiting so they are elated to see yachts and tourists choosing to visit their lovely villages.

I can’t imagine that any Regency can top the hospitality of Lembata and Larantuka.  As we move further west, tourism will increase until we reach Labuan Bajo (08-30.197’ S x 119-52.493’ E) which is the main check-in center for visiting the Komodo National Park.