KISAR ISLAND TO KALABAHI, ALOR

August 18, 2014  Monday

The distance from Kisar (08-05.121 S x 127-08.796) to Kalabahi, Alor (08-13.428 S x 124-30.224 E) is about 195 nm when sailing to the South of Alor Island.  A  route to the North of Alor is possible and shorter but has tidal rips and contrary currents.  Most of the boats in our fleet sailed the northern route and found little wind and some contrary currents.  The advantage of the northern route is that there are anchorages along the way.  The winds are starting to become lighter and I thought that the southern passage would give better winds because they aren’t obstructed by the high mountains of Alor.

We heaved up anchor at 1530 hrs with the idea of sailing to Labuan Air Panas (07-51.177 S x 125-49.59 E) on the island of Wetar.  There are hot springs there and the anchorage is, reportedly, quite pleasant.  The distance is about 95 nm so  that is why we chose to leave later in the afternoon for an overnight sail and morning arrival.  The winds were out of the SE at 10-15 kts and the sailing was beautiful.  In the end we decided to skip the hot springs and sail on to Kalabahi, Alor.  The winds became lighter in the afternoon and at 1436 hrs we were becalmed so we took in the jib and lay ahull.  There was no swell so it was pleasant.  Two small whales sounded near the boat.  For the first time in my experience, I observed the physical movement of tidal water approaching from the south.  At first, I thought it was a pool of wind approaching since it had sound and white waves.  As it passed under us, there was quite a bit of turbulence and movement and then it continued toward the southern coast of Alor.  Later on another wave came by with the same phenomena.

By 1606 hrs, I decided to start motoring closer to the Southern coast of Alor to see if I could find some wind.  Also,  I wanted to arrive at the entrance to Selat Pantar (Pantar Strait) at first light to catch a favorable current going North.  We have now entered a part of Indonesia where there are fierce tide rips, overfalls and currents that can run up to 9 kts on Spring tides.  The direction of the current has to be timed and taken advantage of or one could get set back and it could take hours to make the destination.

We arrived off the southern end of Selat Pantar (08-29.4’ S x 124-23..4 E) at 0515.  We had one and one half hours until first light so  we lay a hull at the strait entrance.  I was able to observe that we were getting set North into the strait which was just what I wanted.  At 0645, I started motoring up the strait to Kalabahi, Alor.  The tidal stream and movement of water was impressive.  We managed to make 8 kts at times but a few miles before the turn off into Kalabahi Bay (Teluk Tebola) we caught the beginning of the South going current and slowed down to three knots.  As soon as we turned into Kalabahi Bay at 0906 we picked up a favorable current running up the bay.  The bay runs almost 8 nm in a NE/SW direction.  It’s a scenic bay with mountains that come right down to the shoreline.  There are many villages along the bay and we are starting to see the famous bamboo fishing traps that line the waterways.  Essentially, they are bamboo platforms with a small hut on them: some are quite large (30’ x 30’).  It is dangerous to run at night in waters where they exist.  I usually stay 3-4 nm offshore to avoid them.  The radar can, usually,  pick them up on a 1-1/2 – 3 nm scale but nothing is certain.  The small  Indonesian fishing boats working bays usually have some kind of flashing strobe light for themselves and their nets.

At 1000 hrs we dropped anchor in a small bay (08-13.423’ S x 124-30.233’ E) just off the main shipping channel.  The anchoring depths are deep in many of the anchorages: 60’ or more.  I only carry 230’ of 5/16” chain so, many times I can’t put out the required scope: minimum 3:1 and preferably 5:1.  The saving grace is that the wind falls flat calm during the evening so there is almost no movement in the anchorages.  The sea breeze in Kalabahi starts around 0930 hour in the morning and lasts until 1500-1600 in the afternoon.  The anchorage we were in has several fresh water springs emanating from the surrounding mountains.  We used the water to wash down the boat and our hair.  I think it is potable but would not use it without a little bleach.  Many Indonesians drink bottled water and there are many filtration places selling water in 5 gal bottles.  Garbage and rubbish collection is a problem so it is littered about everywhere including the sea.

We had no special events in Kalabahi but were able to resupply and take care of other business.  The internet was so slow and unreliable that I wasn’t able to send email or post anything on the blog.  Alor is not a big island, however, it has many different ethnic groups and dialects.  Each group is extremely proud of its tradition and ancestry.  If former times there was warfare amongst the different villages and the taking of human heads was not uncommon.

We are now in a part of Indonesia where “Ikat” weaving is done by many of the married women.  This form of weaving is done on a “back strap loom”.  The women tie their backs to the loom frame and then set up the patterns that are unique to each village, tribe or clan.  The best “Ikat” is made with hand-spun thread and the dyes are made with bark, roots and leaves.  Motifs include animals, people and figurative totemic objects.  If natural dyes are used, the colors are more subdued but, nowadays, marvelous weavings are made using imported dyes and threads.  I have been told that the very best “Ikat” is woven in East Nusa Tengarra which is the region we are in.

Other than big Christian churches and mosques, Kalabahi doesn’t have too much to offer.  Most of the older traditional ways are rapidly disappearing and modern music, cell phones and big boom boxes dominate the air waves.  A small “bemo” (taxi bus) will have eight 10” speakers under the seats and powered on high: a pair of Bose noise cancelling headphones would be ideal.  There is a national obsession with taking photos with foreigners and  themselves.  They are more than happy to pose and have their picture taken.  Truly, these Indonesians are some of the most friendly, generous and warm hearted people one in likely to encounter on the road of life.  They have little but what joy and exuberance comes from them.

We will be in Kalabahi until August 26^th and then it’s off to Lembata (08-22.147 S x 123-24.581 E).