KOMODO NATIONAL PARK

On September 20^th we heaved up anchor and got u/w for Rinca which is one of the islands making up the Komodo National Park.  We dropped anchor in the  Rinca anchorage area at 1245 hrs in 54’ water depth with 165’ chain out (08-39.179’ S x 119-42.840’ E).  The bay is called Loh Buaya and is very well protected.  We used a dinghy to get over to the dock and, for the first time, saw the macaque monkeys up very close.  We’ve been seeing these monkeys from a distance in our voyages along the north coast of Flores but not up close.  These monkeys were accustomed  to tourists and quite bold.  While we were there, one of the monkeys grabbed a bag of potato chips form a tourist and scooted off with it under the dock.  There is a sign on the dock the warns:  NO Swimming – Crocodile Area.

“Ora” is the name the local people give to the giant lizards thathave made this place famous.  The largest Komodo Dragon, Varanus komodensis,  recorded was more than 10’ (3m) in length and weighed over 300 lbs (150 kilos).  Their presence is believed to warn that you are in crocodile territory.  This proved to be true for the Komodo National Park as the mangroves and small inlets were perfect places for them.  These dragons seem to be lethargic but this is deceptive as they can move very quickly in attacking their prey.  They have very sharp teeth and dagger-sharp claws which can inflict very serious wounds, however, their most lethal weapon is the  the potent bacteria in their mouths.  They ambush their prey and wait until it takes effect before moving in to consume them.  During our tour, we saw a water buffalo that had been bitten by a dragon and was in the process of dying.  It had been about two weeks since it was attacked and the wound was on the hind quarter leg – not so big or deep – but enough to let this potent bacteria do its job.  It had lost the will to live and we were able to approach it without its making any attempt to  move.  As soon as it dies, the dragons will move in and totally devour it.  Also, these dragons are cannibalistic and eat their own.  We were told that the young ones live in the trees for the first five years for safety, not moving to ground level until they are 3’-4’ in length.  Dragons will attack humans and several locals and a few tourists have been killed and eaten.  If someone is bitten, they have to be flown to Bali for the necessary antibiotics since Labuan Bajo does not have what is needed.

We started our tour from the Ranger station on September 21^st at 0700 hrs.  It’s cooler at this time of day.  Guides are provided by the National Park Service and are required because of the danger of the dragons and  snakes (spitting cobra).  Each Ranger carries a forked staff for fending off the dragons in case of attack.  Also, each one of us carried a forked stick.  The Ranger was a local who had been born on Rinca and related the attacks and deaths of several villagers.  He was cautious and alert.  Since the dragons can smell blood and go to the source, menstruating women are not allowed on the trails for their own protection.  As soon as we left the ranger station and approached the living quarters of the park staff, there were eight large dragons around the housing.  We asked why? and were told it was because they smell blood.  There are several options in trekking around the park with a ranger:  short trek, one hour trek, 3 hour trek, longer ones can be arranged to the village where the locals live.  We took the one hour trek and saw a female dragon protecting a nest of eggs she had laid from male dragons.  There were deer, wild boars and the dying water buffalo.  Others saw the spitting cobra.  On our way back to the ranger living quarters, we saw two dragons engaged in battle with each other.  It’s a long slow process were each one attacks and then gets on top of the other.  Suddenly, they will rear up on their hind legs and continue the struggle.  We finished the tour by 0900 hrs and returned to our respective boats.  We were with our cruising friends, Ken and Lil Bardon, from “Moonbeam” – a 52’ Island Packet.

At 1230 hrs we heaved up anchor and departed Rinca for another beautiful anchorage between Sabayor Besar and Sabayor Kecil.  This whole area of the Komodo National Park is filled with small islands and anchorages.  It’s dry and desolate and reminiscent of the Galapagos Islands.  The park service provides moorings at many of the places located around Rinca Island and Komodo Island.  We were able to pick up a mooring just north of Sabayor Kecil (08-30.274’ S x 119-42.679’ E). 

The diving around the Komodo islands, is, reputedly, some of the best in the world.  Many of sailors in the Sail2Indonesia are avid divers and reports were coming in from their dives as “the best ever”, “spectacular”, “without equal”.  There was one particular diving operation out of the many that had glowing reports – Manta Rhei.  It is owned by a Belgian and is a father/son operation that has recently started up.  For many years I have wanted to get PADI certified and this was the perfect opportunity.  We were sitting on a mooring and each day the dive boat came by with all the divers going to the fabulous sites around Komodo.  I made arrangements to take my first dive with was called “DSD” – Discover Scuba Diving.  The owner, Bennie Van Maele, personally gave me one-on-one attention.  It was great and we made arrangements for the dive boat to pick me up over the next three days for Open Water PADI Certification.  Each day at 0800 hrs the dive boat came by and Bennie spent the whole day with me undergoing all the certification requirements.  He was very thorough and attentive.  I could not have had better instruction anywhere.  In the end, I made six open water dives to 60’ (18m) and took the exam.  Since I am 71 years old, he was delighted to have  certified me.  I wanted the certification because I have been feeling vulnerable with anchoring and moving through areas where there are many fishing nets.  Since, at times, we anchor in coral, I would have no way to retrieve the anchor if it were deeper that 30’ (10m) since that is my limit for free diving.  Now I have the ability to retrieve the anchor should need arise.  So here I am – a Certified Open Water Diver!!  It will take many more dives with dive masters before I feel really comfortable at 60’.  My instructor, Bennie Van Maele, from Manta Rhei Diving has made arrangements for me to purchase everything I need at a local dive shop in Denpassar, Bali.  The equipment is made by “ScubaPro” and cheaper than buying it in the States.  I will doing this in a few days.

We did not go to Komodo Island to see a second round of Komodo dragons as the reports coming in were that Rinca was far better.  Also, I had taken three days for the certification.  We decided to sail on to Lombok Island on September 25th via several anchorages for the evening.  Day sailing is the safest here in Indonesia because of the fish traps that are all over the place up to 4 nm offshore.  We try to “day hop” from anchorage to anchorage.

Final assessment for Komodo National Park is that it merits all the tourism that goes there and, truly, is one of the great places to visit in the world.