LABUAN BAJO, WEST FLORES ISLAND

We anchored at Labuan Bajo on September 16^th @ 1148 hrs in 56’ of water on a sand/mud bottom with 195’ of chain out (08-30.224’ S x 119-52.510’ E).  The anchorage is big and can accommodate many boats.  The actual Bay of Labuan Bajo is even bigger and is filled with commercial, diving and “liveaboard” vessels which resemble Chinese junks with their high poop decks.  Additionally, there are an incredible number of small fishing vessels with outriggers.  After being in remote areas for most of voyage from Saumlaki, Labuan Bajo comes as a surprise because it is dedicated to the tourist trade wishing to visit the Komodo National Park to see the famous Komodo Dragons (Varanus komodensis).

Labuan Bajo is a ramshackle little harbor town that is experiencing an incredible population and building  growth boom.  For the most part, it is a one strret town that stretches out for over a mile with Dive Shops, Tour Boats, “liveaboard boats” clothing, souvenirs, Italian Restaurants and other fare.  For the first time, we are seeing tourists from all over the world.  There are flights coming and going.  Many choose the “live aboard boats” that will take them to the Komodo National Park (only 12 nm from Labuan Bajo” where they can trek and dive in the pristine.  These  waters are the crown jewel of Indonesia.  They have some of the most tempestuous activity we have witnessed anywhere.  The convergence of warm and cold currents breeds nutritious thermal climes, rip tides and whirlpools that attract large schools of pelagics, from dolphins and sharks to manta rays and blue whales.  The coral here is mostly pristine.  All in all is has some of the best diving in the world and September it is at its finest.  Even though there is tremendous current activity, the waters are smooth and anchoring is deep but easy.  At night, the anchorages go flat calm and smooth.

And so it is that the Wonderful Sail2 Indonesia fleet embaraced Labuan Bajo with all the luxury and decadence it has to offer: massages, aroma therapy, great eating.  There is a garbage problem throughout Indonesia.  The population has never been taught to put rubbish is disposal bins so it end up everywhere including the water.  Perhaps this is because they are used to disposable items like banana leaves, coconut shells, etc.  It will take a generation educated in disposal management to even begin to address the problem.  In a nation of 250 million people, of which some are still living in very remote areas, this is a gigantic undertaking.

At this time of year, the farmers are preparing their fields for the coming rains by burning off all the old stubble and grass which leaves ashes for fertilizing the new crops.  The smell of smoke and deposit of ashes has been following us for quite some time.  At times during the morning, there is a smoke haze so thick that it’s difficult to see the land from the sea.  This occurs when there is a land breeze blowing out to sea.  The normal wind pattern we have been experiencing is flat calm at night with a land breeze blowing out to sea until about 1000 hrs and then a sea breeze kicks in until 1600 hrs in the afternoon.  Both breezes are mostly light in nature and 10 kts or less.  Some days it just remains calm.  All this necessitates motor sailing.  We have done more motoring here that anywhere else.  As we approach the equator and the ITCZ (Intertropical Convergence Zone) rain and thunderstorm activity will replace these gentle breezes.  We are preparing for a monsoonal shift from the SE to NW towards the end of November.

On September 20^th at 0700 hrs we weighed anchor and set off for Komodo National Park, 12 nm from Labuan Bajo.  At 1245 hrs, we dropped anchor in 54’ water depth at Loh Buaya Bay (08-39.179’ S x 119-42.846’ E) which is the entry anchorage for Rinca (Komodo) National Park.  There are two large islands in the National Park where the dragons can be seen:  Rinca and Komodo.  They are close to one another.